 1 Vietnam overview
 2 Vietnam travel guide (Loney Planet Publications)
 3 Vietnam Consular Info Sheet
 4 Travel refections
 5 Vietnam guide
 6 DMZ Demiliterized Zone and highways
 7 History
 8 Culture
 9 Mythical stories
 10 Health and Medicine


\1 Vietnam an introduction

Vietnam is divided into 61 Provinces. Here are 17 areas hightlighting the main tourist places:

1. HANOI 2. HAIPHONG 3. QUANG NINH 4. VIETBAC (FAR-NORTH) 5. NORTH-WEST 6. NORTHERN DELTA & MIDLANDS REGION 7. NORTH CENTRAL REGION 8. NINH BINH-THANHHOA 9. THUA THIEN- HUE 10. QUANG NAM-DA NANG 11. KHANH HOA 12. HO CHI MINH CITY 13. BARIA-VUNG TAU 14. LAM DONG 15. SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST & CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 16. SOUTHEAST REGION 17. MEKONG DELTA

VIETBAC (FAR-NORTH) Cao Bang, Bac Can, Lang Son Thai Nguyen Ha Giang Tuyen Quang

NW Son La Lai Chau Yen Bai Lao Cai Hoa Binh

NORTHERN DELTA & MIDLANDS Ha Tay Vinh Phuc Phu Tho Bac Ninh Bac Giang Hai Duong Hung Yen Thai Binh Ha Nam Nam Dinh

NORTH CENTRAL REGION Nghe An Ha Tinh Quang Binh Quang Tri

NINH BINH - THANH HOA Ninh Binh Thanh Hoa

SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST & CENTRAL HIGHLANDS Quang Ngai Binh Dinh Phu Yen Binh Thuan Ninh Thuan Gia Lai Kon Tum Dac Lac

SOUTHEAST REGION Dong Nai BinhDuong Binh Phuoc Tay Ninh

MEKONG DELTA An Giang Long An Dong Thap Tien Giang Ben Tre Vinh Long Tra Vinh Can Tho Soc Trang Kien Giang Bac Lieu Ca Mau

An Giang Binh Dinh Bac Thai Binh Thuan Ben Tre Ba Ria-Vung Tau Cao Bang Can Tho Dac Lac Dong Nai Dong Thap Gia lai Ha Giang Hai Phong Ha Noi Ha Bac Hoa Binh Ho Chi Minh City Hai Hung Ha Tay Ha Tinh Kien Giang Khanh Hoa Kontum Lai Chau Long An Lao Cai Lam Dong Lang Son Minh Hai Ninh Binh Nghe An Nam Ha Ninh Thuan Phu Yen Quang Binh Quanh Nam-Da Nang Quang Ngai Quanh Ninh Quang Tri Song Be Son La Soc Trang Tien Giang Thai Binh Thanh Hoa Tay Ninh Tuyen Quang Thua Thien-Hue Tra Vinh Vinh Long Vinh Phu Yen Bai

Let's go to Vietnam

According to archaeological discoveries made at Do Mountain, it is believed that life in Vietnam began as far back as 300,000 years ago. Officially, the history of Vietnam stretches back 4,000 years when it was founded by the Hung Kings. It was then named Van Lang.

When speaking upon the hist of Vietnam, it is important to note the large role played by the French in Vietnam. that began in 1858, when the French took over Danang in south Vietnam. Over time, more and more terr was won over by the French. It wasn't until 1954, when the French surrendered to to the Viet Minh, ending the French Indo-china War, that the French colonial control ended.

The immediate image in the minds of most people at the mention of Vietnam is that of the war fought against the US some twentyfive years ago. Most people think of the country only in terms of the American conflict in Indo-china. The war ended nearly twentyfive years ago, and today, despite lingering signs of past American involve-- ment, the situation in Vietnam is markedly different.

People have finally begun to look at the country from another perspective, now that travelers and tourists from the West are being welcomed into what was once a for-bidden country. It may take a bit more effort and tena-city to plan an excursion into Vietnam than it would for another Southeast Asian country, but Vietnam has much to offer in terms of culture and sights.

PEOPLE AND CULTURE - The vast majority of the population is Vietnamese with minute percentages of Chinese. The Viet culture orig on the delta of the Red River and the Ma River where the Viet people cultivated paddy fields. They led a simple farming life in small villages, usually living around a communal house. Today the people living in the countryside follow this lifestyle. The Viet people are influenced by Confucianism, in particular the principle of respect for their elders.

In spite of the immense suffering of the Vietnamese and the somewhat ruined state of the country, they are generally warm and friendly, and surprisingly, the Vietnamese bear little if any resentment or bitterness toward Americans. Children in the streets will commonly greet visitors with the name Lien Xo, which means Russian, but they will easily be corrected if you respond, "Hello!" or "Good morning" and explain you are an American.

Ethnic Groups: The country is predominantly 85-90% Vietnamese, 3% Chinese, ethnic minorities include Muong, Thai, Meo, Khmer, Man, Cham, and other mountain tribes.

Languages: Vietnamese is the official language; French, Chinese, English, Khmer and tribal dialects (Mon-Khmer and Malayo-Polynesian) are also spoken.

Religion: Buddhist, Confucian, Taoist, Roman Catholic, indigenous beliefs, Islamic and Protestant.

LOCAL CUSTOMS - General: Be firm, yet diplomatic when dealing with officials who will often be very rigid. In the case of misunderstanding, patience is the best policy.

Small gifts such as cigarette lighters, pens, foreign cigarettes, liquor, perfume and even shampoo are greatly appreciated by anyone you wish to make friends with in Vietnam.

Out of politeness, always ask permission before taking photos of people. The same rule of thumb also applies to photos taken in places of worship. Permission will almost always be granted.

A gentle handshake is the most appropriate manner of greeting.

Be very discrete about giving anything to beggars frequently encountered in Ho Chi Minh City. If anyone is seen giving handouts to a beggar, he or she may end up being pursued by a mob of other beggars. This does not help create a good image for foreigners; it gives them instead the reputation of being easy to hit up for money.

Beware of pickpockets. Keep your ID and passport in a safe place and carry only photocopies of those items.

Be aware that the locals may feel that speaking with you may get them in trouble with the police.

Remove your shoes before entering Buddhist pagodas. Small donations placed in the boxes found in temples are appreciated. It is acceptable to keep your shoes on within Chinese pagodas.

Never let the soles of your feet face other people or any sacred monument, such as a statue of Buddha.

CURRENCY The dong (D) is the official currency in Vietnam.

Bank notes currently in circulation are in denominations of 20d, 30d, 50d, 100d, 200d, 1,000d, 2,000d, 5,000d and 10,000d. Notes under 200d have little value and are rarely used.

The U.S. dollar is more or less a second currency in Vietnam. Other foreign currencies are not readily accepted. A large supply of US$1, US$5 and US$10 are almost essential for tipping, for small expenses and for hotel bills. U.S. money is so common that change will frequently be given in dollars.

You may bring in an unlimited amount of foreign currency as long as it is declared on the forms provided by customs officers. Foreign currency can be exchanged for dong at your hotel or at the State Bank of Vietnam. Please click here to connect to our interactive Currency Converter.

Holidays: January 1 - Solar New Year's Day February 3 - Anniversary of the Foundation of the Communist Party of Vietnam. January/February - Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan). The most important Vietnamese annual festival. This marks the new lunar year and the advent of spring. This is a three-day holiday, usually at the end of January or the beginning of February (according to the solar calendar). April 30th - Liberation Day, the day on which Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) fell to Hanoi in 1975. This holiday is commemorated nationwide. May 1 - May Day May 19 - Birthday of President Ho Chi Minh September 2 - National Day of Vietnam Time: Vietnam is 11 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time and 14 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time.

Tipping: Tipping is not customary in Vietnam, but it is enormously appreciated. A 5-10% tip for a meal is a very small amount of money, but to the average Vietnamese, it could easily equal a day's wages. Avoid tipping too much, as it will set a precedent for others.

Restaurants: Government-run restaurants catering to tourists add a 10% service charge to the bill.

Porters: Porters, if they are available, can be tipped with American coins.

Hotel maids: Government-run hotels catering to tourists charge an automatic 10% service fee.

Taxis: Generous tips are not necessary. A small gratuity, however, is expected by cab drivers.

WEATHER CONDITIONS The weather in the southern part of Vietnam is tropical. It is monsoonal in the north, bringing a hot, rainy season from mid-May to mid-September and a warm, dry season from mid-October to mid-March. Occasional typhoons from May to January bring extensive flooding to the middle regions of Vietnam.

Coastline: 2,153 miles (3,466km) excluding islands. The coastline lies on the South China Sea.

Terrain: The north and south parts of Vietnam are characterized by low, flat deltas. Central Vietnam consitts mostly of highlands. Hilly, mountainous terrain is prominent in the far north and northwest. The peninsula is S-shaped, and there are thousands of offshore islands and archipelagos. The largest islands are the Hoang Sa (Paracel) and Truong Sa (Spratly) archipelagos.

Cat Ba This island is the largest in the Cat Ba archipelago. It is potentially one of the major beach destinations in Southeast Asia. This region has beautiful beaches and pristine waters. Within the mountains are caves and grottos. Located 36 miles (58km) east of Haiphong.

Central Market The Ben Thanh Market, formerly the main railway terminal, is the largest of the markets scattered throughout the city. A wide variety of goods are available, from imported electronics to imported perfumes. Ho Chi Minh City

Cham Ruins For those interested in seeing all that these fifteen towers have to offer, plan on spending a minimum of one day. These towers are located at My Son in the Duy Xuyen district. Danang

Cholon Ho Chi Minh City's Chinatown. Sights include the Binh Tay Market, the An Quang Pagoda (District 5) and the scenic Thien Hau Temple. Ho Chi Minh City

Cu Chi Tunnels An extensive network of nearly 200 miles (322mi) of Viet Cong tunnels used in the French Indochina war and American war. The tunnels have complete facilities, from kitchens to printing presses and even street signs, all of which were used to aid the NLF (National Liberation Front) military. Tours involve a description of the tunnels, after which tourists are allowed to crawl about the maze. Located in Tay Ninh (suburb of Ho Chi Minh City), 24 miles (39km) northwest of central Ho Chi Minh City. Ho Chi Minh City

Dalat The mountain resort among the Central Highlands has scenic surroundings as well as remnants of the French colonial era. The Ethnic Minority Museum is certainly worth visiting for those interested in the costumes, gongs, ornaments and other artifacts collected by locals from the Lam Dong province. As another point of interest, there is even an old abandoned nuclear power plant.

Halong Bay One of Vietnam's most beautiful areas, Halong Bay has fascinating limestone formations, coves for nighttime excursions, sheer cliffs, grottoes, arches and scores of small islets.

Ho Chi Minh City This is the largest city in Vietnam. It is the industrial, commercial and cultural center of the country. The central city area is still called Saigon.

Khai Dinh Tomb This is the final monument of the Nguyen Dynasty. The complex features ceiling murals, frescoes and a dragon staircase. Located on the slopes of the Chau E Mountain, six miles (10km) south of town. Hue

Marble Mountains Consisting of five limestone peaks, about five (8km) miles south of town. They can be explored by following the paths leading to the peaks. Danang

Minh Mang Tomb The most impressive of the tombs and pagodas at Hue. Located at the tributaries of the Perfume River, seven miles (11km) south of Hue, this complex has beautiful architecture, intricate decor and military statues. Hue

Notre Dame Cathedral This Catholic church was constructed in 1883 and is located near the Tu Do (Dong Khoi) Street, the former red-light district. Ho Chi Minh City

Nha Trang The central region near Nha Trang features some of the most beautiful beaches in Asia. The ocean waters are transparent, and the sands immaculate, attracting more and more visitors in recent times. Tours cover the Cham Ponagar complex, the north tower of which was built in 817 A.D. Ruins of the long-deceased Champa still stand as a testament to this once prominent kingdom.

One Pillar Pagoda Built in the 11th century, this pagoda sits on a stone pillar in the middle of a pond. This is one of the more unusual structures in Vietnam. Hanoi

Presidential Palace This building is now called the Reunification Hall. The center was built as a modern administration center and is where the war and the American involvement in Vietnam ended in April 1975, with tanks invading the compound. Guided tours will take visitors through the various rooms within the complex. Ho Chi Minh City

Tu Duc Tomb Tranquil scenery composed of lakes, pine-tree-covered hills and pavilions make this area an ideal place to relax. Located about five miles (8 kms) southwest of Hue. Hue

Vinh Nghiem Pagoda A modern Japanese-style Buddhist temple, easily one of the largest and most impressive in Ho Chi Minh City. Ho Chi Minh City

Vung Tau Beach Located at the mouth of the Saigon River is the popular Vung Tau beach resort. Pineapple Beach is probably the most pleasant, with its villas and generally tranquil atmosphere. The temples are a definite must-see. The Niet Ban Tinh Xa is the largest temple in Vietnam. Tourist accommodations are available at the Hoa Binh Hotel, as well as the Thang Loi, Thang Thai and Tho Nguyet. Ho Chi Minh City. PARKS

Lenin Park (Thong Nhat Park) Built over a former marsh, this park surrounds a large lake containing a statue of Lenin, often the object of jokes among the locals. The park itself is quite beautiful. Tran Nhan Tong Street. Hanoi

National Preserve of Cuc Phuong This national park is one of the last tropical primeval forest reserves on Earth. There are 64 species of fauna and thousands of species of flora, many of which are extinct everywhere else in the world. Bizarre and fascinating species of animals from flying lizards to monkeys dwell within the park's 61,000 acres. Caves and grottoes, where various artifacts have been discovered, are located in the mountains within. Ha Nam Ninh Province It is located approximately 62 miles (100mi) southwest of Hanoi.

Thu Le Park Located northwest of Hanoi in the Thu Le village.

MUSEUMS

Ethnic Minority Museum The Ethnic Minority Museum in Dalat should be one of the first stops for those visiting Lam Dong. In addition to traditional Vietnamese items such as costumes, jewelry, hunting weapons and musical instruments, the museum has an archaeological display. Among the historical items are Hindu statues of the goddess Uma, Cham vases and ancient tools. - Hanoi

Fine Arts Museum This museum houses an exclusive collection of prehistoric artifacts, wooden Buddhas from the 17th century, Dong Son bronze drums and Vietnamese art, both ancient and contemporary. 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street - Hanoi

History Museum Pham Ngu Lao houses exhibits from all eras of Vietnam's history. Artifacts of all types and of all time periods are found within. 1 Pham Ngu Lao - Hanoi

Ho Chi Minh Museum In Ba Dinh Square lies Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, which holds the embalmed corpse of none other than Ho Chi Minh himself. The museum documents and traces his lifetime work aimed at liberating and reunifying Vietnam. - Hanoi

Hue Museum Formerly the Long An Palace, this museum holds the treasures of the former royal family, many of which have been stolen since December of 1946. - Hue

Museum of Cham Sculpture This excellent museum has a collection portraying the four major time periods that explain their origin of the Cham people as well as cultural influences depicted in the changing styles of their art. Danang

Museum of the Revolution Formerly the Gia Long Palace, this white building has pictures on its walls of the anticolonials who had been executed. Ho Chi Minh City

National Museum This museum has exhibits that trace back to the very beginning of Vietnam's 4,000-year-old history. Ancient artifacts, early Chinese and Indonesian art and age-old statues are all housed within the museum. Contemporary collections of Vietnamese furniture and a wide variety of other items are also located within. Ho Chi Minh City

Revolution Museum This msseum recounts Vietnam's struggles through the years with the French and the U.S. Some of the more gruesome exhibits include booby traps, torture boxes and photos of executions. Hanoi

War Museum This museum features a collection of American tanks, infantry weapons, photos of war atrocities committed by Americans and Chinese as well as a French guillotine used during 1959 and 1960 to execute insurgents. Located in the former U.S. Information Service Building on Vo Van Tan Street. Ho Chi Minh City SPORTS Within the normal struggles of life experienced by most Vietnamese, sports as defined in the West really don't exist. Many of its beaches provide excellent swimming and are also a wonderful places to relax. Bikes may be rented from various places, but it may be easier just to buy one, if you are planning on exploring by bike. Bikes cost about US$25 and are of poor quality. Bike theft can be a problem, however. At the end of the trip, simply sell or give the bike to a Vietnamese friend.

Be aware that the traffic laws in Vietnam are not obeyed by most people. You can be hit by careless drivers, and there is no insurance in Vietnam.

ACCOMMODATIONS Hotels: Western tourism is new to Vietnam. Standards are not really up to par with other developed countries, and internationally rated hotels are virtually nonexistent. Facilities are substandard, often underequipped, without working appliances and sometimes without electricity. Facilities are slowly improving, and there are already a number of good hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, Danang, Nha Trang and Vung Tau. Rates will always be in U.S. funds, with the exception of small establishments away from the city center.

DINING AND DRINKING Vietnamese food varies from region to region. Almost 500 traditional dishes have been recorded! Rice and noodles are staple foods, served with nearly all meals. The most popular dishes are nema r?n (spring rolls), b?n thang (noodles with sliced pork, eggs, shredded chicken and shrimp), shellfish steamed with ginger and sea crabs fried with salt. Among common ingredients used are: shark fin, duck, pork paste, fish, spices, fruits, vegetables, crab meat, lobster and oysters.

Imported beer is available in Vietnam, although a number of domestic beers are brewed. Rice wine is very popular, and there are many brands available. There is a variety of fruit wines such as apricot, orange or lemon. Soft drinks are processed from the many varieties of tropical fruits available. Water from the tap should be avoided, even though it has already been filtered and sterilized at 10?C. If you must drink it, boil the water first.

ENTERTAINMENT Vietnam is not the place to go for the latest in nightspots, but a number of large hotels have nightclubs and dance halls. Bars are fairly easy to find, even in smaller hotels. Try asking the locals for the current popular spots.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Police: 03

Ho Chi Minh City Police Station 161 Nguyen Du, Quan 1 99398 or 97107 Open from 8-11am and 1-4pm

Hanoi Police Office for the Registration of Foreign Visitors

63 Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi All visitors must register with the police within 48 hours of arrival. If you are on a tour, this should have been taken care of (but check anyway).

Fire: 08

First Aid: 05

PASSPORTS AND VISAS Passports and visas are required for entry into Vietnam. The best place to obtain a visa for Vietnam is Bangkok. The visa will specify where you will be arriving and where you will be leaving, in addition to how long you can stay.

Formerly, tours had to be booked to obtain a visa, but this is no longer the situation. Potential visitors to Vietnam must fill out three applications for entry and exit visas, accompanied by three passport photos 4cm x 6cm. One of the applications must be sent to the most convenient diplomatic or consular mission of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. The other two applications/photos are carried with you and handed in at the first point of entry.

You must also provide the following information to Vinatour, via fax or telephone: Surname and first name Date and place of birth Nationality Present place of residence Profession Time and point of entry and exit

 Duty-Free Items: Visitors may import 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, 1 liter of wine, 1 liter of liquor and an unlimited amount of film. Commercial goods and items of high value being taken out of Vietnam require export permits from the Customs Service. Antiques may be confiscated permanently. No local currency may be taken out of the country. TRAVEL TO THE COUNTRY

Airports Noi Bai International Airport Hanoi

Tan Son Nhat Airport Ho Chi Minh City

Fares are significantly lower for those flying to Ho Chi Minh City. Although flights are available from the capitals of most Southeast Asian countries as well as from Sydney and Melbourne, the best place is from Bangkok as visas are easiest to obtain there.

Airlines

Vietnam Airlines (Intl) 116-118 Nguyen Hue Blvd. SGN. (08)292118

Vietnam Airlines (Domestic) 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu St. SGN (08)299980

Air France Dong Khoi and Le Loi St. (Caravelle Hotel) SGN (08)241278

Thai 116 Nguyen Hue Blvd. SGN (08)292118

Philippine Airlines, SGN (08)292200

MAS. 116 Nguyen Hue Blvd. SGN (08)30695

Trains: There are currently no train lines running between Vietnam and its neighboring countries.

Buses: Traveling by road from Cambodia is a slow and expensive alternative to flying. It is highly advisable that travelers fly in instead.

Ships and Ferries: There are no official passenger services. Travelers may be able to ride on a cargo ship to Ho Chi Minh City, Danang or Haiphong from Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand, Singapore and France. Check with the local shipping and travel agencies for rates and availability.

A ferry service runs from Cambodia to Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta. TRAVEL WITHIN THE COUNTRY Cars Car rentals are currently not in existence. Cabs, which are unmarked cars without meters, can typically be rented for the day for US$30 to US$40.

Trains The Vietnamese railway system runs from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi along the coast and links with Haiphong and the regions further north. Odd-numbered trains travel South, and even-numbered trains travel north. The fastest trains take at least 52 hours from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. Reservations should be made a day or more in advance. The major setback to the railways is that tourists are charged many times more than Vietnamese people in the form of an outrageously high surcharge. For long distance traveling, it is best to fly.

Buses The bus system runs almost everywhere within the country, with stations built around the country dividing the territory into regions. Buses tend to be slow and unreliable.

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\2 Vietnam travel guide (Loney Planet Publications)

In the wake of the 11 September terrorist attacks in the United States, Vietnam has been suffering from an expected drop in tourist arrivals, and along with its South East Asian neighbours is doing what it can to keep the foreigners coming. Local tourism authorities have been working around the clock to cook up promotional ?terrorism-free holiday' campaigns. A month after the attacks, Vietnam wel-comed news that the Hong Kong-based Political and Economic Risk Consultancy (PERC) had rated Vietnam as the most stable and safest country in the Asia-Pacific region. According to the Vietnamese zodiac, 2001 is the ?Year of the Snake' and business is auspiciously booming in snake restaurants around the country. January's Tet celebra-tions were deemed the biggest ever, a claim borne out by the largest ever influx of Viet-namese expatriates (around 150,000 of them) to rejoin their families for the Festival of the First Day. Though 2000 was a symbolically signifi-cant period when the populace found itself a full 25 years on from the horrors of the Vietnamese/American War, the first year of the new millennium (or, according to many, the last year of the old) also saw the worst flooding in the Mekong Delta since the 1920s. The scale of the disaster was such that over 6.5 million people living along the Mekong in four different countries were affected. In September and October of 2001, more horrific annual floods returned, but by early November the waters had finally begun to recede. Prices continue to drop and tourist num-bers continue to rise as the country gets a better economic foothold in Asia and tin-kers with its tourism infrastructure. But even with the increasing interest being paid by travellers, and despite the November 2000 visit by a big man from Little Rock who was accompanied by a horde of salivating business executives, and the October 2001 ratification of a bilateral Vietnam-US trade agreement, real govern-ment reforms (both economic and social) remain thin on the ground. Vietnam wants to bring more outsiders in, but it still wants them to leave their influences at home. Facts about Vietnam HISTORY Vietnam Today The official slogan for the year 2000 was ?Vietnam, A Destination for the New Mil-lennium', a time when the National Admin-istration of Tourism hoped to attract two million foreign tourists to the country. According to official figures, they managed to meet the ambitious target. And despite the lull following the September terrorist attacks, Vietnam was estimating tourist arrivals for 2001 at closer to 2.4 million by the end of the year, with approximate earn-ings of US$1.4 billion. Throughout 2000-2001, Vietnam also pushed ahead with the implementation of its National Tourism Action Program, a scheme in which key tourist sites were upgraded. However, all of this activity has not stopped critics from pointing out that important ele-ments of basic tourist infrastructure, such as a tourist police force and unbiased tourist infrrmation offices, are still missing. In April-May 2000, mass celebrations were held across Vietnam to commemorate the 25th anniversary since ?liberation' and the end of the American war. Bill Clinton helped to mark the occasion later that year by becoming the first US president to visit northern Vietnam and the first in 30 years to visit the country's south. Clinton's visit last-ed four days, from 16-20 November, and he was accompanied by an entourage of nearly 1500 politicians, journalists and business-people, the latter hoping to witness the unlocking of lucrative new investment opportunities. In late 2000, the Mekong Delta experi-enced its worst flooding in 70 years. The massive overflowing of the Mekong River, which began with early monsoon rains in July, killed nearly 500 people in Vietnam alone and forced tens of thousands of the region's residents to evacuate from their homes. Damage costs were estimated at US$280 million. In some areas, inhabitants were not able to return to their homes until the waters fully receded several months later. Again, in September and October of 2001, seasonal flash flooding in eight cen-tral provinces and the Mekong Delta claimed the lives of over 350 people, a majority of them children. The 2001 floods caused some US$70 million in damage and had a catastrophic effect on regional rice and coffee crops. A long awaited commerce pact between Vietnam and the US finally came to fruition in October 2001 with the US Senate's ratification of a bilateral Vietnam-US trade agreement. The pact completes the normalisation process of US-Vietnam relations, which began in 1995 with the establishment of diplomatic ties between the one-time foes. Vietnam stands to gain greatly in the manufactured goods export sector (estimated for 2001 to be approxi-mately US$16 billion). Under the new agreement, Vietnamese goods and services exports to the US will enjoy substantially lower tariffs (plummeting from an average of 40% down to just 4%), while the US will finally gain access to vari-ous markets previously under state control. Though some business leaders remain scep-tical of the pact's potentiality, other experts foresee a trade turnover of over US$1 billion between the two countries. Meanwhile, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs emphatically disapproved of a con-nection between the recent trade pact and an unrelated Vietnam Human Rights Bill passed by the US House of Representatives, claim-ing that the bill ?impudently distorts reality'. ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT Eco-tourism is increasingly on the rise, with trekking and other outdoors tours being sought out by more and more travellers. The government has done its bit to spur the industry along by recently opening a new eco-tourism site, Vam Sat, in the Can Gioc district to the south of Ho Chi Minh City. Vam Sat encompasses an area of over 800 hectares and is home to marshlands, a man-grove forest, and a wide variety of flora and fauna. The Mekong Delta site has been given world reservation biosphere status by UNESCO. In October 2000, Vietnam also created the Bai Tu Long National Sea Park, a pro-tected reserve to the east of Halong Bay which includes over 13,000 hectares of tropical evergreen forest. FLORA & FAUNA Every once in a while, Vietnam reveals a form of life which has otherwise managed to evade scientific classification. In 1998, a new breed of deer was discovered in the country. More recently, the islands and caves of Ha Long Bay yielded seven previ-ously unknown types of plants - the largest and most conspicuous of the new flora has been christened the Ha Long Fan Palm. GOVERNMENT & POLITICS Political developments are always extreme-ly hard to gauge due to the government's tight-lipped style. One thing we can do at this time is to share the 2001 political vision of the General Secretary of the Communist Party of Vietnam, a man capable of taking rhetoric to new depths: ?(Last century) the most heroic and talented gen-eration of the heroic and talented generations of the nation was born. It is the Ho Chi Minh gener-ation. And it is really happy, through challenges, storms and floods, we had a successful 2000...You have asked me what I am wishing for? I wish that we will win the greatest and most comprehensive victory in the first year of the cen-tury...The year 2001 will be more successful than 2000 and the years before that.' Source: Le Kha Phieu (Jan '01) Vietnam's reaction to America's srrike on terror in Afghanistan called in October 2001 for a halt to the strikes on a ?sovereign country'. ECONOMY Bill Clinton's visit, which he made with executives of such large companies as Nike, Coca-Cola, General Electric, Citigroup and General Motors in tow, reawakened inter-national investor interest in the country. However, the fact that Vietnam has not insti-tuted the prerequisite economic reforms - reforms which ground to a halt in the late 1990s because of solid bureaucratic obsta-cles in Hanoi - means there's no guarantee of an economic miracle just yet. Govern-ment officials are still talking about abolish-ing the dual-level tariff system, and that's all they're doing. Under the current system, foreigners and overseas Vietnamese are required to shell out in excess of double the price locals pay for flight tickets on Vietnam Airlines, domestic train travel, hotel rooms and so on. In the first nine months of 2001 Vietnam exported 3.3 million tonnes of rice, rising in the ranks to become the third leading rice exporter in the world. By the end of the year the country is expected to well surpass its 2001 export target of 3.5 million tonnes. SOCIETY & CONDUCT Intent on protecting its naive and morally vulnerable citizens from the ?poisonous' effects of non-officially sanctioned culture, Ho Chi Minh City authorities recently exterminated over six tonnes of seized books, newspapers, magazines, videotapes and CDs. Not only does it seem that the only good book is one produced by a state-controlled publishing house, zealous com-mittees even
insist on assessing local music acts before allowing them to play in public. As part of a similar ?social evils' cam-paign, all bars and nightclubs in Ho Chi Minh City are currently required to close their doors before midnight. Facts for the Visitor VISAS & DOCUMENTS Be aware that visa regulations change con-stantly. Vietnamese embassies will be able to provide you with current information. Visas In early 2001, the Vietnamese government announced a plan to give French and Jap-anese travellers free 14-day tourist visas on arrival. And despite persistent lobbying for the plan from the Vietnam National Admin-istration of Tourism (VNAT), the Public Security Ministry has kept the plan on ice, citing a lack in reciprocity with visa excep-tion agreements. As of October 2001, the plan had yet to be approved, and there was no word yet as to if and when this privilege might be extended to other nationalities. Re-Entry Visas A traveller has reported that they tried to organise a re-entry visa for Vietnam in Saigon before catching a flight into Cambodia, but were told by immigra-tion officials that a re-entry stamp could be obtained ?no problem' from the Vietnamese embassy in Phnom Penh. However, in Phnom Penh they were told there was no such thing as a re-entry stamp and that they would have to apply for a new visa. Travellers in Vietnam intending to try and visit neighbouring countries on a single-entry visa are advised to have a reliable travel agent organise the paperwork for them. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Embassies & Consulates in Vietnam Details of the following foreign embassies/ consulates in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City have changed: Australia Embassy: 8 Duong Dao Tan, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi (directly behind the new Daewoo International Hotel) Laos Consular section (in Hanoi): A traveller has told us that this has closed and that visas must now be arranged at the Laos embassy a few blocks west at PhoTran Binh Trong. Netherlands Embassy: (% 04-831-5650, fax 04-831-5655) Daeha Office Tower, 6th Floor, 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi MONEY A traveller has told us that it was nigh impossible for him to use his American Express card in Vietnam, but that Master-Card and Visa were widely accepted. Some merchants do, in fact, accept American Ex-press, however the surcharge is typically 4% (as opposed to 3% for MasterCard and Visa). Exchange Rates The dong has been slowly weakening against the dollar, and at the time of writing it was hovering at 15,000d to US$1, the lowest since Vietnam opened its doors to tourism in 1988. It's always risky to pin down a currency on paper (or on screen), so try this currency converter to give you the current value of the dong: www.oanda.com POST & COMMUNICATIONS Telephone In mid-2001, all mobile phone numbers in Vietnam had a ?3' added, following the 090 or 091 prefix. International Calls Telecommunications costs have fallen significantly in the past couple of years - outgoing international calls were reduced by 10% in mid-1999 and then by a further 10% to 15% in late 2000. Since 5 September 2001, with the intro-duction of Voice Over Internet Protocol, international phone service is now available to 50 different countries and territories at a flat rate of just US$1.30/minute, less than half of the formerly cheapest rate. The serv-ice is easy to use from any phone in the country; just dial % 171 +00, country code and the number. INTERNET RESOURCES For more up-to-date information on Vietnam, try the following links: Motorbiking Vietnam Replete with pictures of motorbikes which appear to be gazing wistfully at spectacular scenery, this is the site for two-wheel enthusiasts considering a tour of the country: http://motorbikingvietnam.com Things Asian This site is brimming with infor-mation on the culture of Vietnam, everything from architecture to literature and fashion: http://thingsasian.com/destination/vietnam/ index.htm Vietnam Online Offers travel lore, employment and business opportunities in Vietnam: http://govietnam.com Jewels of the Mekong Features the people, the countries and the river: www.travelmedia.com/mekong/ The Ecotravel Center Lots of useful information on travelling lightly: http://ecotour.org/ecotour.htm Viet Space The latest on Vietnamese-related art, music, film, politics and upcoming events: http://trans.kicon.com/page/gen.jsp?dir= /vietspace Vietnam Democracy Newsletter The purpose of the newsletter is to ?inform the internation-al community of news and developments in Vietnam - especially those that do not make it to the outside world': www.fva.org/vndemo.html Lonely Planet SubWWWay For other useful sites, visit the subWWWay section of Lonely Planet's Web site, at: www.lonelyplanet.com/weblinks BOOKS Part memoir and part travel narrative, Cat-fish and Mandala (1999) is a fascinating account by Vietnamese-American author Andrew X Pham's of his escape from post-war-torn Vietnam in 1977. It also explores his return two decades later, equipped with a bicycle and a need to work out his own mixed-up cultural identity. HEALTH In December 2000, the health authorities claimed a comprehensive victory against polio, a disease which had previously afflicted people in most of the country's provinces. Thanks to the support of sever-al international organisations, Vietnam has built up an adequate stockpile of polio vac-cinations and this should mean that the dis-ease has now been eradicated within its borders.

Other diseases continue to plague both locals and visitors, however. Villagers (especially children and young women) in the more remote regions of Gia Lai Province in the country's south-east are suffering rrom epidemics of measles and tetanus, while malaria is still a major con-cern in rural areas, particularly in the cen-tral-coast province of Quang Nam-Danang. If you're unsure about which immunisa-tions to get before travelling to Vietnam, consider contacting Hanoi's Family Med-ical Practice (email HFMedPrac.Kot@ fmail.vnn.vn). The international team of doctors at this clinic can provide the latest scoop on diseases and vaccinations, as well as general medical advice for Vietnam. The helpful people who are responsible for the Hanoi clinic have also opened a new branch in Saigon - see the Medical Services section in the Ho Chi Minh City section for details

WORK Volunteer Work The email address given for the NGO Resource Centre in the guidebook is incor-rect - it should read ngocentr@netnam.org .vn. The same misprint appears under How to Help on page 128. Getting There & Away

AIR Airports & Airlines A number of new international air services have been introduced. The US airline Delta has a code-sharing agreement with Air France to service Vietnam, and other US carriers United and Northwest are now fol-lowing suit.

Vietnam Airlines, the national carrier, now operates direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City to Tokyo and has increased serv-ices to Osaka. Vietnam Airline has also resumed direct flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Seoul in South Korea. Regionally, Vietnam has gotten together with a few of its neighbours to run a new Hanoi-Vientiane-Phnom Penh-Saigon air route. A boon for Angkor Wat visitors, there are now daily direct flights between Saigon and Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Airports & Airlines The nasally obnoxious fruit durian was the first to go, banned from all Vietnam Airlines flights due to its pungent odour and the effect on passengers and crew without vacuum-sealed nostrils. Despite being con-sidered the ?king of fruit,' and also the most expensive tropical fruit in Vietnam, durian is often said to ?taste like heaven, but smell like hell.' Now, the equally stinky fish sauce (nuoc mam) has suffered the same fate - officials of the national carrier have just banned the favoured Vietnamese cook-ing ingredient (and tourist souvenir) from travelling on their planes because of its cor-rosive and vile-smelling qualities. Departure Tax The departure tax for international flights is now US$12.

LAND Cambodia Major news alert! A new international bor-der crossing at Vinh Xuong has officially opened near Chau Doc, in the Mekong Delta! Cambodia/Vietnam visas must be arranged in advance before heading to the border.

The best place to find information on crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia via Vinh Xuong is Delta Adventure Tours/Saigon Tourist (% 08-836-8542, email sgnkimcafe@hotmail.com), 187A Pham Ngu Lao, in Saigon. This outfit offers an exhilarating day trip from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh for just US$15 including three boat rides (the longest one by speedboat up the Mekong River) and a van shuttle from Neal Luong, Cambodia to Phnom Penh. The cost of the Sinh Cafe bus between Phnom Penh and Saigon (via Moc Bai) is now US$12. China A new 138m-long bridge that arches over the Song Hong (Red River) between the Vietnamese town of Lao Cai (Lao Cai Province) and the Chinese town of Hekou (Yunnan Province) was opened on 9 Jan-uary 2001. The bridge, the first of many planned as joint ventures by Vietnam and China, was built to dramatically improve the flow of traffic through the border crossing and is expected to increase the tourism and trade prospects for both countries.

Laos Apparently, a traveller who recently tried the rumoured new border crossing between Laos and Vietnam near Dien Bien Phu found that even though the Vietnamese embassy in Bangkok happily issued her a visa for the crossing, she was turned back when she got there. The border crossing currently appears to be open only to Lao and Vietnamese. ORGANISED TOURS San Francisco-based VeloAsia Cycling Adventures (Web site www.veloasia.com) has changed its phone number to % 415-282 3788.

Getting Around AIR Be aware that prices of some domestic flights on Vietnam Airlines have dropped in the range of 10% to 20%. Travellers have warned that you should check the official current fares before purchasing tickets any-where other than direct from Vietnam Airlines. Apparently, some travel agents and tour operators who arrange air tickets are charging the price in the current Lonely Planet Vietnam guide, even if the actual cost has come down. You can confirm the proper fare with a simple phone call to Vietnam Airlines, or a visit to one of its offices. Domestic Departure Tax The airport tax for internal flights is 50,000d (US$3.50).

TRAIN In mid-2001, Vietnam's railway authority inaugurated the latest ?S1' express train on the Saigon-Hanoi/Hanoi-Saigon Reunifi-cation Express. The shiny new double deck-er features a dining car, among other improved facilities. A boon for train travellers heading to/from China and Sapa are the new soft sleeper carriages currently being installed on the Hanoi-Lao Cai route. ?The trains are a great way to meet ?normal' Viet-namese people. One thing that worries me a lot about the tourist buses is that many of the people who use them are just conveyed from the door of one guesthouse to another in the company of other foreign tourists, and probably never have any sig-nificant contact with locals who are not working in (or preying on) the tourist industry in one way or another.' Source: Alan Davies (Jan '01)

CAR & MOTORBIKE With more than seven million motorbikes on the road today in Vietnam (some 15 times the number of just a decade ago!), it's not surprising that over half of the 7000-plus road fatalities in 2000 were suffered by motorbike riders. These horrific stats have caused the government to take action, and new rules require motorbike riders and pas-sengers to wear helmets (known locally as rice cookers') while they're swerving along the majority of the country's national highways and down main roads in Ho Chi Minh City. Although this should save lives, it probably won't change the opinion of the following traveller: ?I have visited about 50 countries and driven in over half of them. Nowhere have I seen worse drivers than in Vietnam. Between us, the friend with whom I travelled and I saw four fatal traffic accidents, and several less serious ones, all with-in a two-week period. I think it is sheer lunacy for anyone who lacks substantial experience driving in similar countries to attempt to do so here.' Source: John Findling (Feb '00)

Hanoi On 8 October 2000, Hanoi kicked up its urban heels to celebrate its 990th birthday. The celebrations lasted a month and includ-ed numerous fireworks displays, sports competitions and cultural events, such as an international puppetry festival. As part of the celebrations the city treated itself to a facelift, putting admirable efforts into restoring and preserving historic build-ings. City planners, meanwhile, have been exploring the creation of pedestrian-only streets in the historic, but traffic-congested Old Quarter.

INFORMATION Motorbiking Specialty Tours Assoc-iation Bourlingue has moved its base of ?free-wheelin tour' operations to an office on the second floor at 51 Pho Cua Dong. The new contacts are: % 747-0545, fax 747-0557, mobile 091-331 9994, email fredo-binh@ hn.vnn.vn.

Medical Services The International Hospital has changed to the Hanoi French Hospital. The telephone number printed in the guide for International SOS is for emergencies only; to reach the clinic for non-emergencies, dial % 04-934-0666.

Traditional medicine doctor Le Anh Tuan (% 090-443529) can now be reached by email at leatuan@fpt.vn. His acupuncture and acupressure treatments cost US$20.

LAKES, TEMPLES & PAGODAS Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum In winter (Uncle Ho's annual trip to Russia notwithstanding), the mausoleum is open 9 to 11 am Tuesday to Thursday and week-ends; in summer, the days are the same but the hours are 7.30 am to 10.30 am. MUSEUMS Memorial House The house at 87 Pho Ma May now charges 5000d admission, and is open daily from 8 am to 7 pm. Ho Chi Minh Museum The museum is open daily except Monday and Friday. Women's Museum The museum closed for renovation in Sep-tember 2001, and was expected to reopen before the end of the year. Hoa Lo Prison Museum The museum is now closed on Mondays.

HANOI CITADEL In late 2000, news sources reported plans to re-open the citadel to coincide with Hanoi's 990th birthday. As of March 2001 only one crossroad through the citadel was open, though more access is expected in the future.

PLACES TO STAY The top-end Meritus Westlake Hotel has changed hands and is now the Sofitel Plaza Hotel. The Thuy Nga Guesthouse has a new email address: thuyngahotel@hotmail.com.

PLACES TO EAT Vegetarian ?The vegetarian restaurant Com Chay Nang Tam is excellent but very difficult to find. You should add that the sign to Com Chay is a few hundred yards west of the Cambodian Embassy on the same side of the road. The entrance is down a side alley between houses.'

Source: Sandra Postle (Jul '00) International The Red Onion Bistro has changed hands, and is now run by the same folks as Al Fresco's restaurant, this one under the name of Jacc's. In the meantime, former Red Onion master chef Bobby Chinn has opened a new place called Restaurant Bobby Chinn ( %04-934857, www.bobbychinn.com, 1 Pho Ba Trieu), just across from the south-west corner of Hoan Kiem Lake. Chic and stylish, this promises to be one of Hanoi's hottest spots for fine dining. Talented executive chef Donald Berger has revamped the menu at the Press Club's exqui-site The Restaurant, reinforcing its standing as Vietnam's premier continental dining locale. Downstairs, The Deli no longer dis-counts its baked goods after 6 pm. Italian La Dolce Vita has closed its doors for good following an explosive kitchen fire in September 2001 (luckily no-one was hurt). At the time of writing, however, the brains behind the restaurant were preparing to open a new wine bar (Vietnam's first?) called Da Gino. The location, attached to the popular Italian restaurant Luna d'Au-tunno, is at 11B Dien Bien Phu. Asian Khazana is under new management and is now called Revival. Prices appear to have dropped slightly, and their new nightly BBQ special (US$1 per dish) is worth checking out. ENTERTAINMENT Pubs Bar Le Maquis is no longer the headquarters for the motorbike tour operator Association Bourlingue. This outfit has moved to a new location on the second floor of 51 Pho Cua Dong. The new contacts are: % 747-0545, fax 747-0557, mobile 091-331 9994, email fredo-binh@hn.vnn.vn. Another good night-spot, however, to pick up leads on touring the north on two wheels is the new rice wine bar, Highway ?4.

Apocalypse Now does not open these days until around 8 pm. The Camellia Cafe & Bar, the Modern Toast and Club Monaco have all closed recently. Water Puppets Admission tickets to the show at the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre come in monetary 40,000d (US$3) get you seats at the front (recom-mended) while the 20,000d (US$1.50) vari-ety get you seats a fair way back from the stage (not recommended). Performance times tend to vary with demand, so make local inquiries.

SHOPPING Market Hanoi's first night market opened in December 2000. Goods on offer include an array of handicrafts, clothes, second-hand stuff, and food and drink. The market is in the streets adjacent to the large Dong Xuan Market, which is just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, and stalls are open from 7 pm to mid-night. In July 2001, funky handbag guru Chris-tina Yu relocated her trendy shop Ipa-Nima (% 04-942-1872) to a restored French villa at 59G Pho Hai Ba Trung. Her former retail store at 30B Nguyen Huu Huan, mean-while, has reportedly counterfeited her con-cept and is spinning off carbon copies of Ipa-Nima bags. Be forewarned: they're not the real thing. North-East Vietnam

CAT BA ISLAND ?Except for the exclusive hotels which have their own buses, arranging a minibus to Cat Ba National Park appears to be a thing of the past. A large bus picks up from the other hotels. A 50,000 dong ticket pays for the return bus ride.' Source: Ann Ward (Jun '01) North-West Vietnam

SAPA The Ninh Hong Guesthouse has changed its name to Family Guesthouse (% 871334) and has moved south to a new location near the Chapa Restaurant. The Cat Cat Guesthouse email address has changed to catcatht@hn .vnn.vn. The Auberge Hotel email address is now: auberge@ fpt.vn. North-Central Vietnam

NINH BINH We've heard that the Thuy Anh Mini-Hotel has a second building and that the rooftop restaurant has been converted into an accom-modation suite costing around US$15. The cost of accommodation at the Star Hotel has fallen, with rooms now priced between US$4 and US$15. Internet access is now available here. AROUND NINH BINH The section heading for Tam Coc was mis-printed as Tam Hoc. As an alternative to the boat trips at Tam Coc, some travellers are reporting a better and more hassle-free deal at Van Long, located on the road from Ninh Binh to Cuc Phuong National Park. Hoa Lu If you can't move the exhibits to a muse-um, move a museum to the exhibits. In the former imperial city of Hoa Lu near Ninh Binh, an archaeological museum has been created by enclosing a huge archaeological site in a new building. The museum is the first of its kind in Vietnam. The 140 sq metre site includes the civilisation of the Dai Viet era and the culture of the 10th-century Dinh and Le dynasties, with origi-nal artefacts on display. Central Vietnam

HUE Places to Stay - Budget The correct email address for the Binh Duong Hotel is binhduong1@dng.vnn.vn. Getting There & Away Bus A traveller recommends trying the local bus stop on Duong Le Hong Phong (about 500m west of the junction with Duong Nguyen Trung To) for transport to Danang - the trip apparently took one hour and cost 20,000d (US$1.50). Needless to say, only pay up when the bus arrives, not to anyone on a motorbike who says they're the driver and are collecting fares in advance.

THE ROYAL TOMBS When visiting the Royal Tombs, watch out for the following scam: ?At the stop for the first tomb, a posse of motor-cyclists demanded that the travellers use them to get to the tomb; their fee started at 30,000d for a ride of just a few kilometres. One Australian who had the temerity to try and walk was effectively forced off the road by the motorcyclists...other travellers were encircled and forced to pay up to get released. Although this was reported back to the travel agents, they did not appear to take the complaint seriously.' Source: Philip Halsall (Feb '00)

HOI AN Formerly optional, the 50,000 dong ticket giving visitors access to multiple sites is reportedly required now just to enter the town centre of Hoi An. Enforcement appears to be on again-off again, but don't be sur-prised if you are forced to buy one. Places to Stay The three upmarket resorts mentioned have all opened and are enjoying a steady stream of customers. The obvious pick of the two beachside places is the elegant Victoria Hoi An Resort ( % 0510-927040, fax 927041, email victoriaha@dng.vnn.vn, Web site www .victoriahotels-asia.com), perched on a prime piece of real estate right on Cua Dai Beach. Published rates start from US$120 per night, and the resort offers a free shuttle service between the beach and centre of Hoi An town. Cheaper, though not as swish and across the road from the beach, is the Hoi An Beach Resort. Thirdly, the peaceful and elegant Riverside Resort was opened by Vietnam fashion guru Khai, and is on the road lead-ing to Cua Dai Beach. Places to Eat After literally sinking in early 2001, the floating Han Huyen Restaurant has been salvaged and resurrected. Entertainment We've heard that the Tam Long Quan cafe has closed, but we have yet to confirm the report. Make local inquiries. The Zanzi Bar has closed, but plans are underway to reopen in the town centre; keep an ear to the ground. South-Central Coast

QUANG NGAI Budget rooms at the Kim Thanh Hotel now start from US$5.

DAI LANH BEACH Beware: we've heard several reports of theft from the beach bungalows for rent at the Dai Lanh Restaurant.

WHALE ISLAND The delightful, French-run Whale Island Resort (Port Dayot), north of Nha Trang, can now be contacted in Saigon on % 08-845 8096, fax 844 0205. The resort's email address has changed to decouvir@fmail .vnn.vn, and its newly designed Web site is www.whaleislandresort.com. Daily rates are US$35 per person, including meals and boat transfers. Scuba season ended in mid-October, but starts up again around 15 Feb 2002 (the best season for diving there is April to September). Despite the damaging effects of dynamite fishing, the bay has seen a gradual increase in the number of marine species from 40 to roughly 170. NHA TRANG Confirming our boxed warning on page 402, we hear frequent reports of theft on the beach, as well as a proliferation of ?motorbike cowboy' thieves along Duong Tran Phu, the street running parallel to the beach. ?Be very, very careful of any post-darkness amorous undertakings on Nha Trang's beaches (ladyboy infested), as working in teams they are frighteningly adept at pilfering.' Source: Nick Park (Jul '01) Information Travel Agencies TM Brothers has report-edly opened a new branch next door to Sinh Cafe on Duong Biet Thu. Activities Blue Diving Club (% 058-825390, www .vietnamdivers.com) has moved to the Vina Hotel Resort, 66 Tran Phu. Places to Eat The French restaurant La Pretexte has shut its doors.

AROUND NHA TRANG The Islands & Boat Tours Mama Hanh's legendary ?Green Hat Boat Tours' have reportedly been suspended. Rumour has it the local authorities could no longer tolerate her partying habits! No doubt others will be selling spin-off boat tours, and don't be surprised to find them trying to cap-italise on the ?Mama Hanh' name. One traveller had good things to say about the new boat trips being offered at the Nha Trang Sailing Club.

MUI NE BEACH To clarify, the upmarket Victoria Phan Thiet Resort (described in the Phan Thiet section) is actually located on nearby Mui Ne Beach. The resort recently underwent extensive renovations to the cottages and public facilities, and can claim the title of Mui Ne's most elegant beach resort.

Central Highlands According to news reports in February 2001, local uprisings over land distribution in the Central Highlands spurred the gov-ernment to forbid travellers from visiting the region. At the time of writing the situa-tion appeared to have improved, but before heading to the hills, make local inquiries to confirm that the areas you plan to visit have been reopened.

DALAT Information Travel Agencies Dalat Tourist has moved its booking office to 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, next to the Thanh Thuy Restaurant (by Xuan Huong Lake). The new contacts are: % 063-822520, fax 063-834144, Web site www.dalattourist.com. Bao Dai's Summer Palace Apparently, tourists are no longer able to stay at the palace, but double-check this with Dalat Toserco. Places to Stay According to one traveller there is now a camp site available at the peaceful Stop & Go Cafe, but we have yet to verify this tip. Places to Eat The ?supermarket' marked on the Central Dalat map on page 423 is actually the local market.

KON TUM The only Kon Tum Tourist office still open in town is the one at the Dakbla Hotel. Getting There & Away There's a convenient bus service from Kon Tum to Ho Chi Minh City via the scenic Highway 14; the trip takes about 12 hours. Ho Chi Minh City As if navigating Saigon wasn't confusing enough, the municipal People's Committee decided early in 2000 to name 25 new streets and rename another 152! INFORMATION Money Hongkong Bank (HSBC) has moved to The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, District 1. This bank has three of the city's five ATM machines (the others are at ANZ Bank). Medical Services A new 24-hour clinic (% 091234911) has opened on the ground floor of the Diamond Plaza Bldg, 34 Dai Lo Le Duan - it's affili-ated with the reliable Family Medical Practice in Hanoi. MUSEUMS ?No 7 Army Museum was closed on our visit - the soldier there would not comment on when it might re-open again. I'd recommend people inquire locally before making the trek out there.' Source: Jean Cavet (Jul '99)! LANGUAGE COURSES A resident of Ho Chi Minh City has written in to say that the course referred to in the guidebook is at Ho Chi Minh City University (% 835 5100, email ciecer@hcm .vnn.vn), 280 An Duong Vuong, District 5. They also recommend the University of Social Sciences & Humanities (Dai Hoc Khoa Hoc Xa Hoi Va Nhan Van) at 12 Dinh Tien Hoang, District 1. PLACES TO STAY - TOP END Dong Khoi Area The fax number for the Grand Hotel given in the LP guidebook should read: fax 823 5781.

PLACES TO EAT Vegetarian There are now two Bodhi Tree restaurants, operating side by side. The one recom-mended in the LP guidebook (and by trav-ellers) has shifted next door from its old location and now calls itself the Original Bodhi Tree, while its previous site is occu-pied by a new restaurant opportunistically calling itself the Bodhi Tree. Travellers Cafes Kim Cafe & Travel can now be reached by email at cafekim@hcm.vnn.vn. We hear that Cafe Van has changed hands and has reportedly taken a real nose dive.

ENTERTAINMENT - In summer 2001 local government author-ities began imposing a midnight closure time on bars and clubs as part of their war against ?social evils'. In some cases - it varies day to day - it is OK to stay later, so long as you enter by midnight. In any case, late night party hounds might have more luck in Nha Trang or Hanoi nowadays. Bar Rolling Stones has reportedly closed.

SHOPPING - The Tu Do Art Gallery www.tudogallery.com) has moved to 53 Duong Ho Tung Mau, District 1.

Around Ho Chi Minh City CU CHI TUNNELS ?We are delighted to report that the bear is no longer in the cage at the Cu Chi Tunnels. However, several monkeys still are. Guides said, iiWesterners don't like to see animals in cagesls - so public pressure does work.' Source: Ann Ward (Jun '01) VUNG TAU Limited Internet access is available at the Neptune Hotel and there's also a cyber-cafe about 50m north of here along Dai Lo Ha Long.

Mekong Delta - Since the opening of the Vietnam/ Cambodia river border crossing at Vinh Xuong (near Chau Doc) more and more travellers are choosing this route over the land border at Moc Bai. Visas must be arranged in advance before heading to the border. Inquire at Delta Adventure Tours/ Saigon Tourist (% 08-836-8542, email sgnkimcafe@ hotmail.com), 187A Pham Ngu Lao (in Saigon) about their day trip from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh. The Hydrofoil service to/from Chau Doc has been suspended (see the Hydrofoil boxed text on pages 534-535 of the guide-book).

CANTHO - A night market, Tay Do, has opened in the province of Cantho. The 10-hectare market offers the usual handicrafts and consum-ables; it's open 6 pm to midnight weekdays and 24 hours on the weekend. Unfortunately, details of the market's exact location were unavailable - check with the provincial tourism authority in the city of Cantho.

PHU QUOC ISLAND - The ferry from Ham Ninh seems to run daily to Ha Tien now. However, the staff at the Tropicana talked us out of taking it, since one fishing boat of equal size as the ferry had gone down the night before.'

2. LP guide:

Once, the name Vietnam signified not so much a country as a brutal jungle war or a spectacular failure of American power. In recent years, however, the lifting of Vnamese govt restrictions and the boom in budget tvlng have enabled more contemporary and relevant portraits of the country to gain currency in the West.

Vnam borders Cambodia, Laos and China and stretches over 1600km (992mi) along the eastern coast of the Indochinese Peninsula. The country's two main cultivated areas are the Red River Delta (15,000 sq km/5850sq mi) in the north and the Mekong Delta (60,000 sq km/23,400sq mi) in the south. Three-quarters of the country is mountainous and hilly; the highest peak is the 3143m (10,309ft) high Fansipan in NW Vnam.

Vietnam is made up of equatorial lowlands, high, temperate plateaus and alpine peaks. Although Vnam's wildlife is rich, it is in precipitous decline because of the destruction of habitats and illegal hunting. Less than 20% of the country remains forested, and what remains is under threat from slash and burn agriculture and excessive harvesting. Fauna includes elephants, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard, black bear, snub-nosed monkey, crocodile and turtle.

Vietnam has five national parks: Cat Ba, Ba Be Lake and Cuc Phuong nat parks in the north; Bach Ma National Park in the centre; and Nam Cat Tien Nat Park in the south. In an attempt to prevent an ecological and hydrological catastrophe, the govt has plans to set aside tens of thousands of sq km of forest and to create 87 national parks and nature reserves.

Although Vietnam lies in the intertropical zone, local conditions vary from frosty winter in the far northern hills to the year-round subequatorial warmth of the Mekong Delta. At sea level, the mean annual temp is about 27C (81F) in the south, falling to about 21C (70F) in the far north.

From the 1st to the 6th cen, the south of what is now Vietnam was part of the Indianised kingdom of Funan. The Hindu kingdom of Champa appeared around present-day Danang in the late 2nd cen and had spread south to what is now Nha Trang by the 8th cen. The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd cen and their 1000-year rule, marked by tenacious Vietnamese resistance and repeated rebellions, ended in 938 AD when Ngo Quyen vanquished the Chinese armies at the Bach Dang River.

During the next few cen, Vietnam repulsed repeated invasions by China, and expanded its borders southwards from the Red River Delta, populating much of the Mekong Delta. In 1858, French and Spanish-led forces stormed Danang after several missionaries had been killed. A year later, Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) was seized. By 1867, France had conquered all of southern Vietnam, which became the French colony of Cochin-China.

Communist guerillas under the leadership of Ho Chi Minh resisted French domination. Ho Chi Minh's declaration of Vietnamese independence after WWII sparked violent confrontations with the French, culminating in the French military defeat at Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

The 1954 Geneva Accords temporarily divided Vietnam into two zones (the Communist north and the anti-Communist, US-supported south). Political and ideological opposition quickly turned to armed struggle, prompting the USA and other countries to commit combat troops in 1965. The Paris Peace Agreements, signed in 1973, provided an immediate cease-fire and signalled the withdrawal of US troops. Saigon eventually capitulated to the Communist forces on 30 Apr 1975.

The end of the Cold War and the collapse of the USSR in 1991 caused Vietnam and Western nations to seek rapprochement. In Jul 95 even intransigent America re-established diplomatic relations with Hanoi.

Four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or `Triple Religion').

The Vietnamese language (kinh) is a hybrid of Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements with many of its basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign lang in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian, more or less in that order.

Popular artistic forms include: traditional painting produced on frame-mounted silk; an eclectic array of theatre, puppetry, music and dance; religious sculpture; and lacquerware.

Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 diff traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent.

Special prayers are held at Vnamese and Chinese pagodas on days when the moon is either full or the merest sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian food on these days. Some of the major religious festivals follow a lunar calendar. They include: Tet (late Jan-early Feb), the most important festival of the year, marking the new lunar year as well as the advent of spring; Wandering Souls Day (Aug), the second-largest festival of the year, when offerings of food and gifts are given to the wandering souls of the forgotten dead; Doan Ngu (Jun), when human effigies are burnt, becoming soldiers in the god of death's army; and Holiday of the Dead (Apr), which commemorates deceased relatives.

Visas: In most cases travellers are better off getting visas arranged by travel agents rather than tackling the Vietnamese embassies themselves. A 30-day Vietnamese visa costs US$40 from an agent in Bangkok; unfortunately, visa extensions seem to be a thing of the past.

Health risks: dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid, tuberculosis and a minor threat (especially to pregnant women) of dioxins found in the defoliant Agent Orange

Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz. Weights & Measures: Metric with local variations (see the conversion table.) Tourism: 650,000 visitors per year

Travellers staying in budget lodging and eating in small cafes should be able to get by on around US$20 per day, plus long-distance transport costs. Those wanting to stay in mid-range hotels, eat out at moderate restaurants, charter occasional taxis and enjoy the nightlife should budget on around US$65 a day.

Until recently, many upmarket hotels insisted that you pay in US$, but now all businesses (except Vietnam Airlines) must accept payment in dong. In practice, many still display their prices in US$. It's advisable to bring US$ travellers' cheques and a little US$ cash.

There are four ways to exchange currency: at a bank; through authorised exchange bureaus; at hotel reception desks; and on the black market. The best rates are ffered by the banks, but the exchange bureaus are generally more conveniently located and have longer opening hours. The black market rate is worse than the legal exchange rate, so if you're offered better rates than a bank it's bound to be some sort of scam. Visa and MstrCard credit cards are accepted in the major cities and towns popular with tourists.

It's almost impossible to exchange foreign currency outside major cities and tourist areas. Visitors heading off the beaten track will either need to stock up on dong or conduct a private cash transaction on the black market. It's a good idea to bring a calc with you for currency conversions, unless you're the kind of person who can div or mult nbrs by 11,000 in your head.

Govt-run hotels and tourist rests usually add a 10% svc chg to bills so there's no need to tip. Leaving a small tip in other rests will be appreciated by the staff. You should consider tipping hired drivers and guides, and it's polite to leave a small donation at the end of a visit to a pagoda. Bargaining is commonplace but should be engaged in with a smile and considered a form of social discourse rather than a matter of life and death.

There are no good or bad seasons to visit Vietnam. When one region is wet or cold, or steamy hot, there is always somewhere else that is sunny and warm. Basically, the south has two seasons: the wet (May to Nov, wettest from Jun to Aug) and the dry (Dec to Apr). The hottest and almost humid time is from the end of Feb to May. The central coast is dry from Jun to Oct. The north has two seasons: cool, damp winters (Nov to Apr) and hot summers (May to Oct). The highland areas are significantly cooler than the lowlands, and temp can get down to freezing in winter. There is the possibility of typhoons between July and November, affecting the north and central areas.

Travellers should take the Tet new-year festival (late January or early February) into account when planning a trip. Travel (including international travel) becomes very difficult, hotels are full and many services close down for at least a week and possibly a lot longer.

[Image]Attractions

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and soul of Vietnam. It's a bustling, dynamic and industrious centre, the largest city, the economic capital and the cultural trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city's life takes place, is a myriad of shops, stalls, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns, ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.

[Image] It takes two to tango at the snake market, Ho Chi Minh City (17K)

Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be on Sunday and holiday nights. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from disco and karaoke in the larger hotels, loud Western music in bars such as the Hard Rock Cafe, dancing at the Rex Hotel or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music at the Conservatory of Music. Most forms of entertainment can be found in downtown Ho Chi Minh City along Mac Thi Buoi Street.

Budget travellers tend to congregate around Pham Ngu Lao St at the western end of District 1. Cholon has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are still rare here. Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels concentrated around Dong Khoi St at the eastern side of District 1. Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Sts form the axis of Saigon's haven of budget eateries.

Dalat

The city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region. In the past it was renowned as a cool, green city with a park-like environment. This is changing fast, as the economy booms and life speeds up. Still, Dalat is definitely worth a visit and it's a good base for trips into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed by locals the Crazy House. It's a counter-cultural gem created by artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga).

The Emperor Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and everyday objects, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll around the old French Quarter. The Valley of Love, 5km (3mi) north of the city centre, is a bizarre place where you can hire a paddle boat on the lake or a horse from one of the Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed, dressed as cowboys.

There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bike) in the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners. Further out, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).

Dalat is famous for its coffee shops, and is extremely popular with domestic tourists and honeymooners. There's a lot of accommodation but much of it is fully booked..You can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City, but the airport is 30km (19mi) from town; express buses also link the two cities.

Nha Trang

Although it could well develop into a flashy resort such as Thailand's Pattaya Beach, Nha Trang is still fairly quiet. Things are moving, though, so see it while it lasts! With very clear turquoise waters, snorkelling and diving are prime activities, and just lazing on the town beach is an experience in itself. You'll be offered everything from lunch to a manicure.

When you tire of the beach, there are some interesting sites nearby, such as the Cham Towers of Po Nagar, built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site that had been used for Hindu worship as early as the 2nd century.

Nha Trang's dry season runs from June to September, different from Ho Chi Minh City's. In the past, accommodation here tended to be fully booked much of the time, but many new hotels are being built. If you find that all the beachside hotels are full, try the ones near the railway station. Nha Trang is a major fishing port, so excellent seafood is available. You'll find the best restaurants in the central area. The exotic dragon fruit (thanh long) grows only in the Nha Trang area. It's about the size and shape of a small pineapple, but tastes something like a kiwifruit. The fruit is in season from May to September, when you can find it served as a drink.

Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City; express buses take about 12 hours. Express trains run to both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, and there are daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City.

Hu

The most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hu was the country's capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre. The remains of the huge, moated Citadel, constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Nine Holy Cannons, the Imperial Enclosure, the Palace of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km (9mi) south of Hu are the Royal Tombs. Hu has many other places of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums.

If you want to get out of the city for a swim, head 13km (8mi) north-east to Thuan An Beach, where there's a lagoon, a hotel and the possibility of sampan trips up the Perfume River. Vehicles from Hu's Dong Ba bus station run here.

There's a range of accommodation in Hu to suit most budgets, and some good restaurants. Hu has a long tradition of vegetarian food, which is prepared at pagodas for the monks. Stalls in the markets serve vegetarian food on the 1st and the 15th days of the lunar month, and there are several restaurants serving it all the time.

Hu is about 700km (434mi) from Hanoi and 1100km (682mi) from Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express train running between those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to both cities.

Hanoi

Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation's capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.

Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam's first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Budget accommodation can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between June and September, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you'll pay more for accommodation in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Hanoi has plenty of domestic and international air connections, and is connected with Ho Chi Minh City by the Reunification Express train.

Halong Bay

Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000 islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin, is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave of three chambers. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into the sea', and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.

[Image] Rag-tag flotilla in Halong Bay (16K)

Taking a tour of the bay is the main activity here. If you want to see a lot, choose a fast boat. If you want a romantic experience but with the risk of getting hardly anywhere, look for one of the old junks. You have to charter the whole boat, but there are usually enough travellers around to make up a party and keep costs down.

The main town in the region is Halong City, which is in two halves, one on the mainland and one on a neighbouring island. Halong City West, on the island, is the more scenic. Masochists might try seeing the bay on a day-trip from Hanoi, but most travellers catch the ferry from Hanoi to Haiphong and board another ferry there to Halong City East and spend at least one night here. There are plenty of reasonable hotels, mostly in or near Halong West.

[Image]Off the Beaten Track

Ha Tien

Situated on the Gulf of Thailand, 8km (5mi) from the Cambodia border, the town of Ha Tien and its surrounding area are famous for their warm-water, white-sand beaches and fishing villages. The area is also noted for its seafood, black-pepper tree plantations and towering limestone formations. The rock formations around the town support a network of caves, many of which have been turned into cave temples. Ha Tien is a 10-hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City. Because of uncleared land mines and booby traps, be wary of travelling off the beaten track near the Cambodian border.

Sam Mountain

In the Mekong Delta, 3km (2mi) from the riverine commercial centre of Chau Doc and not far from the Cambodian border, this area is known for its dozens of pagodas and cave temples. Favoured by ethnic-Chinese pilgrims and tourists, the shrines feature tombs and fine examples of traditional Vietnamese design and artisanship.

Central Highlands

The western region of the Central Highlands area, along the border with Cambodia and Laos, still sees few visitors. The region's varied agriculture and the presence of up to 31 distinct ethnic groups make it a fascinating destination. Towns such as Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku and Kontum are peopled by ethnic minority groups, while Tua and Ban Don society is matrilineal and matrilocal.

Hoi An

An important river port 30km (19mi) south of Danang, Hoi An is rich in history and has a unique character. It was a contemporary of Macau, attracting Dutch, Portuguese and Japanese trading vessels, and it retains the feel of centuries past. Its magnificent collection of almost 850 older structures and intact streetscapes just beg to be explored. They include merchants' homes, pagodas, public buildings and a whole city block of colonnaded French buildings.

Sapa

Located at an altitude of 1600m (6112ft) in the remote North-Western Highlands, Sapa entrances most visitors. It was built as a hill station for the French in 1922, but went into a long decline from which it has only recently recovered. More and more travellers are braving the bad roads and flocking here for the climate (cold in winter) and to visit the hill tribes (mostly Hmong, Dao and Kinh people) who live in the area. The Saturday market is the best place to buy handicrafts. Accommodation can be tight, especially on weekends when tour parties visit. Just 9km (5.5mi) from Sapa is Fansipan (3143m/10,309ft), which is Vietnam's highest mountain. A hike to the top and back takes about four days, and you'll need a guide and decent equipment, as it is usually wet and cold. You can get to within 30km (19mi) of Sapa by train from Hanoi. Once you reach Lao Cai, you'll need to transfer to a local bus.

Dien Bien Phu

Dien Bien Phu, in the heart-shaped Muong Thanh Valley near the Lao border, is in one of the remotest parts of Vietnam. The valley is surrounded by steep heavily forested hills and the area is inhabited by hill tribes, notably the Tai and Hmong. Dien Bien Phu was the site of that rarest of military events, a battle that can be called truly decisive. It was here in 1954 that Viet Minh forces overran the beleaguered French garrison after a 57-day siege, forcing the French government to abandon its attempts to re-establish colonial control of Indochina. The site of the battle is marked by a small museum, which eloquently tells the story of Vietnamese determination to be rid of the colonial forces.

You can fly to Dien Bien Phu from Hanoi, but getting to the town overland is half the fun since the surrounding mountains are so beautiful. Buses are generally too crowded to appreciate the splendid scenery so do yourself a favour and hire a jeep. It's a two-day, 420km (260mi) trip from Hanoi, so count on hiring a jeep for five days, which should cost around US$400.

National Parks

Cuc Phuong, 140km (87mi) from Hanoi, preserves 222 sq km (87 sq mi) of primary tropical forest. It's home to an amazing variety of wildlife, with animals such as the yellow macaque and the spotted deer, and has many grottoes, one of which has yielded prehistoric stone tools. More beautiful however is Cat Ba Island, 30km (19mi) east of Haiphong. Its diverse ecosystems include tropical evergreen forests, freshwater swamp forests, coastal mangroves, freshwater lakes and waterfalls, grottoes, caves, sandy beaches and offshore coral reefs. It's home to monkeys, boars, deer, squirrels and hedgehogs, and its offshore waters are also heavily populated by fish, molluscs, arthropods, seals and dolphins. It is hoped that plans to designate massive areas of land as national parks go ahead.

[Image]Activities

Vietnam has 3260km (2021mi) of coastline, and you can hire snorkelling and diving gear at most beach resorts. The most popular beaches are Vung Tau, just north of the Mekong Delta, and Nha Trang, near Dalat. There is good hiking, horse riding and cycling in the beautiful countryside around Dalat. Vietnam is a favourite place with long-distance cyclists because much of the country is flat and the shortage of vehicles makes for light traffic. Groups of Western cyclists have begun touring, especially around the Mekong Delta.

Spelunkers should head for the spectacular Pong Nha river caves, north-west of Dong Hoi. Those interested in the Vietnam War can walk part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a series of roads, trails and paths used as supply routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. It ran from North Vietnam southward through the Truong Son Mountains and into western Laos. Those with a 4WD can drive a 60km (37mi) stretch between Aluoi and Hue. The network of tunnels at Cu Chi (35km (22mi) from Saigon) and Vinh Moc (near the old border between North and South Vietnam) enable visitors to experience the claustrophobic life led by villagers and guerrillas during the war.

[Image] Off the record: Cu Chi tunnels

[Image]Getting There & Away

Bangkok, only 80 minutes flying time from Ho Chi Minh City, is the main port of embarkation for air travel to Vietnam, followed closely by Hong Kong. There are also direct Bangkok-Hanoi flights. Vietnam Air, the government airline, still has a stranglehold on flights into the country, although other airlines are allowed some access. Consequently, there aren't many bargain deals available. The departure tax on international flights is US$8 from Ho Chi Minh City and US$7 from Hanoi.

3. LP guide

Border crossing It's become very popular to cross the border at Dong Dang, 20km (12mi) north of Lang Son in north-east Vietnam, to get to/from Nanning in China's Guangxi Province. The other popular border crossing is at Lao Cai in north-west Vietnam, which lies on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. A new Hanoi-Beijing passenger train began operating in February 1996. Buses run daily between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City via the Moc Bai border checkpoint. It's possible to enter Laos from Lao Bao in north-central Vietnam. Note that Vietnamese visas specify your departure point from the country. If you want to change this you'll have to pay a visit to the immigration police or the Foreign Ministry.

Vietnam Airlines has a near-monopoly on domestic flts, which are relatively expensive. Thanks to a new computerised res system, buying a ticket is fairly painless, although you will have to show your visa and/or passport. It's usually faster to buy a ticket from an airline office rather than a tvl agent. The departure tax on domestic flights is d15,000.

Ramshackle, slow and hugely overcrowded buses run just about everywhere in the country, at rock-bottom fares. Bus travel is definitely uncomfortable and frustrating, but if you treat it as a social function rather than a means of getting from A to B, you shd survive with your sanity intact. Most long-dist buses leave early in the morning, so it's a good idea to get your ticket the night before. There are express buses, but few are really fast. Count on an aver speed of 50kmh (31mph) for a genuine express bus, 35kmh (22mph) for a so-called express bus and 25kmh (15mph) for an ordinary bus.

Public minibuses suffer the same drawbacks as public buses. The alt, used by many falangs, is to charter a minibus. They cost more but they are much more comfortable. You'll find people taking bookings in popular tourist dests. Budget GH/htls and cafes are the best places to start looking.

Train travel can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom. There are several types of train; you definitely don't want a crowded, snail-paced local train. Petty theft can be a problem on trains, especially in budget class. Children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you're advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place.

Hire cars and drivers are available at reasonable prices. You'll still be stopped by the police to pay all sorts of 'fines', but at least you'll have a local with you to do the negotiating. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road (most of the time). You can hire a motorcycle to drive yourself if you have an Intl Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. The anarchic traffic is a big hazard, as is the poss of scams. There have been reports of the renter stealing the bike back (the renter has a key to the lock) and chgng the cust an outrageous sum as compensation. If you have left your passport as security you won't have much choice but to pay up.

Travelling through VNam by bicycle is worth considering, though the traffic is still a hazard on highways without wide shoulders. Trains and buses will carry your bike when you want a break.

Other than a few ancient and infrequent buses, local transport is by taxi (some metered, some not) or cyclo (pedal-powered conveyances that are cheap and plentiful). The VNam govt has announced plans to phase out cyclos in a cosmetic bid to improve Vietnam's image. If you're in a hurry and have nerves of steel, try flagging down any passing motorbike. Many people will be happy to give you a lift for a fee a little higher than the equivalent cyclo fare.


\3 Vietnam Consular Info Sheet

Vietnam - CIS July 27, 2001 COUNTRY DESCRIPTION: Vietnam is a poor agrarian country controlled by a Communist government. Tourist facilities are not well established, but are improving in certain areas.

ENTRY/EXIT RQMNTS: U.S. passports are valid for travel in Vietnam. Visas are required and should be obtained from a Vietnamese Embassy or Consulate before traveling to Vietnam. Visas may be issued for one or multiple entries but are usually valid for only one entry. Visas are generally valid for one month, but increasing numbers of travelers have been successful in having their visas renewed after their arrival in Vietnam for up to three months. Entry into and exit from Vietnam is sometimes restricted to a specific port of entry.

U.S. citizens are cautioned that the Vietnamese immigration regulations require foreigners entering Vietnam to carry out only the activity for which the visas were issued. Change of purpose requires permission from the appropriate Vietnamese authority in advance. U.S. citizens whose stated purpose of travel is tourism but who engage in religious proselytizing have had religious materials confiscated and have been expelled from Vietnam.

Current entry requirements as well as other information may be obtained from the Vietnamese Embassy, 1233 20th Street, Suite 400, NW, Washington, DC 20036, telephone 202-861-0694 or 2293, Fax 202-861-1297, Internet home page: http://www.vietnamembassy-usa.org; the Vietnamese Consulate General, 1700 California Street - 4th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94109, telephone 415-922-1577, or from a travel agent who organizes travel to Vietnam. Overseas inquiries may be made at the nearest Vietnamese Embassy.

The Vietnam Tourism Company, a state-run enterprise operating directly under the authority of the Vietnam General Department of Tourism, has three offices in Vietnam:

VTC, 30A Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hanoi, Telephone: (84-4) 826-4154, Fax: (84-4) 825-7583, E-mail: vntourism2@hn.vnn.vn

VTC, 18 Le Loi Street, Hue, Telephone: (84-54) 828-316, Fax: (84-54) 821-090, E-mail: vntourismhue@dng.vnn.vn

VTC, 123 Le Loi Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Telephone: (84-8) 821-0869, Fax: (84-8) 821-0876, E-mail: cndlvn-hanoi@hcm.fpt.vn

In an effort to prevent international child abduction, many governments have initiated procedures at entry/exit points. These often include requiring documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent(s) or legal guardian not present. Having such documentation on hand, even if not required, may facilitate entry/departure.

DUAL NATIONALITY: U.S. citizens born in Vietnam or persons who are former citizens of Vietnam and their children, while required to obtain visas, are treated in criminal matters as Vietnamese nationals by Vietnamese authorities. They also may be subjected to laws that impose special obligations upon Vietnamese nationals, such as military service and taxes. U.S. citizens of Vietnamese origin may be charged with offenses allegedly committed prior to their original departure from Vietnam. U.S. citizens of Vietnamese origin should refer to the paragraph on consular access regarding their rights. Specific questions on Vietnamese citizenship should be directed to the Vietnamese Embassy. Questions on dual nationality may be directed to the Office of Overseas Citizens Services, Department of State, Washington, DC 20520, telephone: 202-647-5226. For additional information, see the Consular Affairs home page on the Internet at http://travel.state.gov for our Dual Nationality flyer.

SAFETY AND SECURITY: In February 2001, Daklak and Gia Lai provinces, in the Central Highlands were the scenes of ethnic minority protests. These protests stopped traffic on roads leading to Buon Ma Thuot and Pleiku. Vietnamese authorities closed hotels to foreigners and prohibited airline travel by foreigners to those regions. Yok Don National Park in Daklak province, Vietnam's largest wildlife reserve and a major tourist destination, was also closed. The situation remains fluid, and neither the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi nor the Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City are able to state when this situation will change. Official U.S. personnel are not authorized to travel to the Central Highlands areas without prior consent from the Government of Vietnam. These travel limitations hinder the ability of the U.S. government to provide assistance to private U.S. citizens in those areas.

Vietnamese security personnel may place foreign visitors under surveillance. Hotel rooms, telephone conversations, fax transmissions, and e-mail communications may be monitored, and personal possessions in hotel rooms may be searched. Large gatherings, such as those forming at the scene of traffic accidents, can become violent. Taking photographs of anything that could be perceived as being of military or security interest may result in problems with authorities. Tourists should be cautious when traveling near military bases and avoid photographing in these areas.

Foreign visitors to Vietnam have been arbitrarily arrested, detained or expelled for activities that would not be considered crimes in the United States. Visitors deemed suspicious by Vietnamese security personnel may be detained, along with their Vietnamese contacts, relatives, and friends. Local security officials have called in some U.S. citizens of Vietnamese origin for "discussions" not related to any suspected or alleged violation of law. These meetings normally do not result in any action against the traveler, but are nevertheless intimidating. Visitors are not permitted to invite Vietnamese nationals of the opposite sex to their hotel rooms and police may raid hotels without notice or consent. Involvement in politics, possession of political material, involvement in business activities that have not been licensed by appropriate authorities, or non-sanctioned religious activities (including proselytizing) can result in detention. Sponsors of small, informal religious gatherings such as bible study groups in hotel rooms, as well as distributors of religious materials, have been detained, fined and expelled.

TRAVEL IN BORDER AREAS: U.S. citizens have been detained after traveling in areas close to the borders with Vietnam's neighbors. These areas and other restricted areas are not always marked, and there are no warnings about prohibited travel. Travelers should avoid such areas unless written permission is obtained in advance from local authorities.

TRAVEL INFORMATION FOR U.S. VETERANS: Increasing numbers of U.S. military personnel who served in the armed forces during the Vietnam War have returned to Vietnam on personal travel. Neither the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi nor the U.S. Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City is aware of any Vietnamese government restrictions on former U.S. military personnel visiting Vietnam. Neither the Embassy nor the Consulate General provides special assistance in reaching battlefield sites. Visitors should understand that some battle sites are relatively inaccessible, and access to battle sites may be denied by the Vietnamese government.

The U.S. Government has stated that its highest diplomatic priority in Vietnam is accounting for U.S. armed forces personnel reported missing in action or killed in action during the Vietnam War. Military or civilian personnel with any knowledge of the location of possible personnel missing or killed in action are encouraged to contact the Joint Task Force-Full Accounting at:

JTF-FA, Det 2, Hanoi 130 Doc Ngu Street Ba Dinh District, Cong Vi Ward Hanoi, Vietnam Phone: (84-4) 823-3709/10/11 Fax: (84-4) 823-3628

CRIME: While Vietnam is generally a safe country, street crime is a serious problem in Ho Chi Minh City and, to a lesser extent, throughout Vietnam. The growing nature of incidents warrants caution on the part of the U.S. traveler. Generally, crime in Ho Chi Minh City is limited to pick-pocketing or snatch-and-grab type of incidents, and the theft of unattended bags, briefcases and other personal items. Violent crime directed against foreigners is rare and the last known incident occurred in June 1997. Travelers are advised not to resist such theft attempts and to report them both to police and to the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi or the U.S. Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City. Motorcyclists, mostly carrying passengers, frequently grab bags, cameras, and other valuables from pedestrians or passengers riding in pedicabs or at the back of rented motorcycles. Thieves also congregate in large numbers around hotels frequented by foreign tourists and business people. Assaults have been reported in outlying areas. As some pedicab drivers have reportedly kidnapped passengers and extorted money, it may be risky to hire pedicabs not associated with reputable hotels or restaurants.

Passengers in pedicabs may be especially prone to thefts of personal possessions by snatch-and-grab thieves because passengers ride in a reclining position that does not allow good visibility or movement and readily exposes their belongings.

Travelers are strongly advised to keep passports and other important valuables in hotel safes or other secure locations. Travelers are advised to carry a photocopy of their passport with them when going out. The loss or theft abroad of a U.S. passport should be reported immediately to the local police and the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi or the U.S. Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet, A Safe Trip Abroad, for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington DC 20402, via the Internet at http://www.access.gpo.gov/su_docs, on the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov or at the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi or the U.S Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City.

Travelers to Vietnam are advised to exercise caution when visiting places where drinking of alcoholic beverages is prevalent. There have been a number of incidents reported in which a suspected toxic or other unknown type of substance was used to taint drinks, leaving the victim susceptible to further criminal acts. Travelers should avoid purchasing liquor from street vendors, as the quality of the contents cannot be assured.

In Ho Chi Minh City some U.S. citizens have reported death or physical injury threats related to personal or professional matters. The U.S. Embassy in Hanoi and the U.S. Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City do not provide personal protection services. U.S. citizens who do not have confidence in the ability of the local police to protect them may wish to depart the country expeditiously.

MEDICAL FACILITIES: Medical facilities in Vietnam do not meet U.S. standards and frequently lack medicines and supplies. Doctors and hospitals expect immediate cash payment for health services. Common U.S. medications are not available in Vietnam. Medical personnel may speak only halting English.

Travelers may obtain lists of local physicians from the U.S. Embassy in Hanoi or the U.S. Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City. Travelers are reminded that neither office may recommend specific medical practitioners or hospitals.

MEDICAL INSURANCE: The Department of State strongly urges U.S. citizens to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and whether it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. U.S. medical insurance plans seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless supplemental coverage is purchased. Further, U.S. Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. However, many travel agents and private companies offer insurance plans that will cover health care expenses incurred overseas including emergency services such as medical evacuations.

When making a decision regarding health insurance, U.S. citizens should consider that doctors and hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the U.S. may cost well in excess of $50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses you incur. Some insurance policies also include coverage for psychiatric treatment and for disposition of remains in the event of death.

Useful information on medical emergencies abroad, including overseas insurance programs, is provided in the Department of State's Bureau of Consular Affairs brochure, Medical Information for Americans Traveling Abroad, available via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page or autofax: (202) 647-3000.

The companies listed below are the only emergency medical assistance firms with representative offices in Vietnam. The Department of State assumes no responsibility for the professional ability or reputation of the medical assistance companies listed below or for the travel insurance companies listed on its web page.

AEA International/SOS assistance Central Building, 31 Hai Ba Trung Street Hoanh Kiem District Hanoi Telephone: (84-4) 934-0555 Fax: (84-4) 934-0556 From U.S.: TELEPHONE 1-800-548-7762 24-hour number within the U.S. (Seattle, WA) Telephone: 206-621-9911 Fax: 206-340-6006

65 Nguyen Du Street, District 1 Ho Chi Minh City Alarm center telephone: (84-8) 829-8520 Clinic telephone: (84-8) 829-8424 Fax: (84-8) 829-8551 From U.S.: TELEPHONE: 1-800-523-8930

1 Le Ngoc Han Ba Ria, Vung Tau Province Telephone: (84-64) 858-776 Fax: (84-64) 858-779

Hanoi Family Practice Hanoi Family Practice is part of the MEDEX network. It also offers insurance policies directly in Hanoi.

Hanoi Family Practice (or Van Phuc Clinic) Building A1, Suite 109-112, Kim Ma Road, Van Phuc, Hanoi Telephone: (84-4) 846-1748 or 1749 Fax: (84-4) 846 1750 24-hour Emergency: 09040 1919 Email: HFMedPrac.Kot@fmail.vnn.vn

(U.S. point of contact) MEDEX International 9515 Deereco Road, 4th floor Timonium, MD 21093 USA Tel: 410 453 6300 Fax: 410 308 2929 Email: info@medexassist.com

Mondial Assistance - Their network operates in many countries. In USA it is called:

ASA - Assistance Services of America 8050 Southern Maryland Boulevard Owings, MD 20736 Tel: 410 257 9505 Fax: 410 257 2704

OTHER HEALTH INFORMATION: Travelers should be cautious when drinking non-bottled water and in using ice cubes in drinks. Travelers may wish to drink hot tea and coffee and bottled water and bottled drinks.

Information on vaccinations and other health precautions may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's hotline for international travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747); fax 1-888-CDC-FAXX (1-888-232-3299), or via CDC's Internet site at http://www.cdc.gov.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Vietnam is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance.

Safety of Public Transportation: Poor Urban Road Conditions/Maintenance: Poor Rural Road Conditions/Maintenance: Poor Availability of Roadside/Ambulance Assistance: Poor

Traffic in Vietnam is chaotic. Traffic moves on the right, although drivers frequently cross to the left to pass or turn. Horns are used constantly, often with no apparent reason. Traffic accidents, most involving motorcycles and resulting in traumatic head injury, are an increasingly serious hazard. At least 30 people die each day from transportation-related injuries. Traffic accident injuries are the leading cause of death, severe injury, and emergency evacuation of foreigners in Vietnam. It is the single greatest health risk that U.S. citizens will face in Vietnam.

Streets in major cities are choked with motorcycles, cars, buses, trucks, bicycles, pedestrians and pedicabs. Sudden stops by motorcycles and bicycles to purchase food from sidewalk stalls make driving a particular hazard. Nationwide, drivers do not follow basic traffic principles. There is little adherence to traffic laws or enforcement by traffic police. There are few traffic lights. Vehicles do not yield right of way. Most Vietnamese ride motorcycles and an entire family often rides on one motorcycle.

Road conditions are poor nationwide. Outside the cities, livestock compete with vehicles for road space. Exercise extra caution in the countryside and on national Routes 1 and 5, as sections of both routes are in very poor condition.

Driving at night is especially dangerous and drivers should exercise extreme caution. Roads are poorly lit and road signs are minimal. Buses and trucks often travel at high speed with bright lights that are rarely dimmed. Vehicles of all types often stop in the road without any illumination, and livestock are likely to be encountered.

Motorcyclists and bicyclists should wear helmets. Vehicle passengers should use seatbelts in cars or taxis. The Vietnamese government has mandated the use of motorcycle helmets on major roads leading to large urban centers. Enforcement of this law began in January 2001 but application has been slow and sporadic at best. New laws have been promulgated concerning the use of motorcycle helmets in urban areas as well, though they have not been enforced. Child car seats are not available.

Penalties for driving under the influence of alcohol or causing an accident resulting in injury or death can include fines, confiscation of driving permits or imprisonment. U.S. citizens involved in traffic accidents have been barred from leaving Vietnam before paying compensation (often determined arbitrarily) for property damage or injuries.

Emergency roadside help is available by dialing at nationwide telephones: 113 for police, 114 for fire brigade and 115 for an ambulance. Efficiency of these services is well below U.S. standards and locating a public telephone is often difficult. Trauma care is not widely available.

The urban speed limit ranges from 30 to 40 km/h. The rural speed limit ranges from 40 to 60 km/h. Both speed limits are routinely ignored.

International driving permits or U.S. drivers' licenses are not valid in Vietnam. Foreigners renting vehicles risk prosecution and/or imprisonment for driving without a Vietnamese license endorsed for the appropriate vehicle. Potential drivers should contact any office of the Vietnamese Department of Communications and Transport to obtain a Vietnamese driver's license.

Most Vietnamese travel within Vietnam by long-distance bus or train. Both are slow and safety conditions do not approach U.S. standards.

For additional information about road travel in Vietnam see the U.S. Embassy Hanoi home page, http://usembassy.state.gov/vietnam/, or the U.S. Consulate General Ho Chi Minh City home page, http://www.uscongenhcmc.org.

For additional general information on road safety, including links to foreign government sites, see the Department of State, Bureau of Consular Affairs Home Page at http://travel.state.gov/road_safety.html. For specific information concerning Vietnamese driving permits and other travel information, contact the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism in Hanoi at phone (84-4) 825-2246.

SEASONAL FLOODING: Heavy rainfall during Vietnam's annual rainy season, usually June through September, and again during the typhoon season from October to December, coupled with outdated and poorly maintained infrastructure, places much of Vietnam at high risk for seasonal flooding. Northern Vietnam is most likely to experience seasonal flooding during the rainy season, while Central and Southern Vietnam are most likely to experience seasonal flooding during from August to November.

While minor flooding is fairly common in Hanoi, the source of any major flood in Hanoi is the Red River. In the event of a major flood, Vietnamese authorities would destroy a portion of the protective dike around the river well upstream from Hanoi. U.S. citizens living near the Red River, upstream of Hanoi, should be aware of this potential risk. If a major flood is not diverted before striking Hanoi, experts predict the flood would be devastating.

There is also a serious risk of flooding in Central Vietnam and in the Mekong River delta regions in Southern Vietnam.

U.S. citizens living in flood prone areas are urged to have a home escape route from rising water levels, stock drinking water and canned food at home, keep a fully stocked first aid kit, keep passports and other important documents in a safe place, and keep informed of weather conditions during the rainy season.

Prior to the onset of a flood, Vietnamese television channel VTV One (which broadcasts in Vietnamese) is a good source for weather information. The Vietnamese government maintains an English-language flood website at: http//:www.undp.org.vn/dmu/latest/en/frame.htm

The U.S. Embassy in Hanoi and the Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City will make available any information they have on possible flood situations which could affect U.S. citizens residing in Vietnam.

AVIATION OVERSIGHT: Because there is no direct commercial air service between the U.S. and Vietnam, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed Vietnam's civil aviation authority for compliance with international aviation safety standards for oversight of Vietnam's air carrier operations. For further information, travelers may contact the U.S. Department of Transportation at 1-800-322-7873, or visit the FAA Internet home page at http://www.faa.gov/avr/iasa.

The U.S. Department of Defense (DOD) separately assesses some foreign air carriers for suitability as official providers of air services. For information regarding the DOD policy on specific carriers, travelers may contact DOD at (618) 229-4801.

PASSPORT SEIZURES/EXIT BANS: The Vietnamese government may seize, and has in the past seized, the passports and blocked the departure of foreigners involved in commercial disputes. Passports should never be used as security for rental of vehicles, collateral for hotel payments, etc. The hotel may retain a passport until checkout. In such circumstances, the U.S. Government may issue a new passport to a U.S. citizen. The Vietnamese exit ban, however, could remain in effect, preventing departure.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS: Vietnamese government authorities have increased the seizure of documents, audio and video tapes, compact discs, literature, and personal letters they deem to be religious, pornographic, or political in nature or intended for religious or political proselytizing. The authorities are also increasingly detaining and expelling individuals believed to be engaged in such activities. Individuals arriving at airports with videotapes or materials considered to be pornographic have been detained and heavily fined (up to U.S. $2,000 for one videotape). Authorities may search rooms and luggage without notice or consent. It is illegal to import weapons, including firearms, knives, and ammunition.

--------------------------------------------------------- Travel news review 19 May '99 In Vietnam, if you can't move the exhibits to a museum, move the museum to the exhibits. In the former imperial city of Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh northern province, an archaeological museum has been founded by enclosing a huge archaeological site in a new building.

The museum is the first of its kind in Vietnam. The 140 square metre site includes the civilisation of the Dai Viet era and the culture of the 10th century Dinh and Le dynasties.

25 Nov 98 Austrian airline, Lauda Air, have commenced services to Ho Chi Minh City. The service is an extension of Lauda Air's existing flight from Vienna to Bangkok. The once-per-week flight leaves Vienna on Fr arriving the next day in Ho Chi Minh City.

25 Nov 98 A hotel price war in Hanoi may not be good news for the Vietnamese economy but it is excellent news for travellers, especially those longing for a night in a room they don't have to share with 27 other travellers. Most five-star private or foreign-owned hotels have cut their rates by up to 40% since the start of the year as the financial crisis continues to affect a number of services in the region. Although there are more government hotels than private hotels or overseas-owned hotels, the govt hotels haven't reduced their prices yet.

22 June '98 The former US Embassy in Ho Chi Minh City is to be demolished to make way for a new US Consulate. It was from the roof of this building that the chaotic helicopter evacuation of US Embassy staff and diplomats took place as the Communists took over the city in April 1975. The images of US soldiers shooting from the roof the thousands of Vietnamese who had gathered at the Embassy desperately trying to leave the country were devastating to US home-front support for the war. The steps on the roof, used to reach the helicopter landing pad, will be removed to the Smithsonian Inst in Wash DC.

1 April '98 For the first time, legally produced compact discs are available in Vietnam. In accordance with a copyright agreement with the US, compact discs are now made under license in Ho Chi Minh City and sold across Vietnam. Elton John, Michael Jackson and Santana are the first artists to be recorded on the legal CDs. But as illegal CDs from China can still be purchased throughout most of Vietnam for half the price of the legal CD, royalty payments may be few and far between.

28 Jan 98 Speeding motorcyclists in Hanoi will be dealt with by water cannon and tear gas following govt approval of the plan put forward by police. A previous plan in Hanoi to curb speeding motorcyclists, using paint guns to mark them for later arrests, has not been successful. The new method to control speeding is also expected to be used in Ho Chi Minh City.


\4 Travel refections

"The final countdown had begun, the km markers sweeping by as we zeroed in on Hanoi. In Saigon I had been warned that the Northerners were a breed apart, that they had no sense of humor, they worked too hard, they ate weeds and dogs and were distinctly stingy. I had shrugged off the warnings, assuming a cultural snobbery based on little more than which end of the egg they broke open for break-fast, or what color noodles they put into their soup.

I was wrong. Even before we reached the city limits, the differences had become obvious. We passed a crowded front yard filled with dun-colored dogs in cages and excited buyers waving money. Russian hats appeared, the thick furry kind with hanging ear flaps. Vowels were hardening and intonations changing, and my hard-earned vocabulary was increasingly met with shaking heads and baffled looks. And everyone, from the potters stacking their wares on sturdy bicycles to the stall owners hawking small mountains of leafy weeds, was wearing army green. The men sported bulging headgear that looked disturbingly like Viet Cong helmets.

There was something else, the last thing I expected to find in steamy, tropical Southeast Asia. It was bitterly cold."

FACTS TO IMPRESS YOUR FRIENDS: The Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi in 1010 AD and rechristened the city Thang Long - "The City of the Soaring Dragon".

The word Tonkin (The European name for North Vietnam) is derived from another of Hanoi's names - "Dong Kinh", or Eastern Capital.

Hanoi means "The City on the Bend in the River".

Ho Chi Minh led a simple life and upon his death gave instructions to be cremated. His successors, however, had other plans for him. They needed him in a recognizable form to rally the troops and decided to have him stuffed. Perhaps the ultimate irony of the Revolution was the mausoleum built to house his remains, a huge monstrosity of blocky stone and sour, goose-stepping guards.

1.The Pagoda in the middle of lake Kiem is beautifully lit at night. 2.Hanoi's history is littered with emperors, golden swords, treachery, and beheadings. You can read all about it in any number of texts but if you want to get a real feel for Hanoi, step through the great stone gates of the old city, into - the old quarter. 3.There is a flower market just north of the city every morning, but you have to get up painfully early to see it. Ironically, the bulk of the flowers get turned into funeral wreathes. 4.Uncle Ho still lives in Hanoi - suitably preserved - at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. If you want to see him then put on long pants and good shoes, be prepared to hand over your daypack to a security guard (don't do this ANYWHERE ELSE in Vietnam), take your hands out of your pockets and practice your goose step. Before you go visiting, make sure he's home - he gets shipped off to Moscow for two months each year for "scheduled maintenance". 5.The Hanoi Hilton has been turned into a foreign hotel.

WEATHER: Before I left for Vietnam I watched some war-related footage of two important politicians at a meeting in Hanoi. They were both wearing heavy overcoats and you could see their breath as they talked. Despite these subtle clues, it never occurred to me that it can get quite cold in Hanoi. I should also point out that it can get quite stiflingly hot in the summer. And that it rains almost all year round. But it's in spring that a really remarkable transformation takes place...

SHOPPING: I arrived in Hanoi after having spent six weeks on a 29-year-old motorbike on some of the nastier roads in Asia. I thought that Hanoi's pastries were the greatest thing since sliced cheese. I thought its sliced cheese was the greatest thing ever.

Other people tell me that Hanoi doesn't have much to offer in the way of luxuries. If you don't want to be disappointed, I suggest you book your flight through Kazakstan and Katmandu or take the bus overland from Laos. As far as I was concerned, Hanoi had exactly what I was looking for...

THE OLD QUARTER Hanoi's old quarter is a window back in space and time, a medieval landscape where entire streets have been dedicated to a single commodity and families hand down their secrets through generations. Dye street, with its brilliantly colored powders spilling over onto the crowded sidewalk. Herbal medicine street, a maze of sturdy paper bags filled with twisted brown roots and crumbling gray leaves. Music street and vermicelli street and silk street and yarn alley...

HAN Circle around Hanoi - The loop, the north around Hanoi. Start in Hanoi. Go to: Mai Chau, Son La, Dien Bien Phu, Lai Chau, Sapa, Lao Cai, and back to Hanoi.

1.This loop will take you through some of the most spectacular scenery in all of Vietnam - waterfalls, high mountain passes, picturesque villages, hanging bridges... keep your nose glued to the windowpane. 2.South of the mountain passes the native houses are generally up on stilts with polished bamboo floors. Further north they hit the ground with a thump and acquire muddy dirt floors. 3.As far as I can tell, only the French think Dien Bien Phu is worth the trip. 4.There are Sunday markets in most of the little villages. They are so spectacular that they are worth arranging your trip around.

SURVIVAL TIPS: If the words "provincial capital" bring to mind thoughts of hot showers, cheese, chocolate, or any of the minor luxuries one usually associates with large towns and cities, think again.

The passes are verrrry cold in the winter. Bring warm clothes. The passes are very high at all times of the year. Bring a durable motorbike, car, or jeep. If you are mountain biking bring a durable pair of legs. If you are busing it bring a courageous soul - the buses often burn out their brakes on the way down.


\5 Vietnam guide

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is one of the poor nations in the Asia/Pacific region. Its GDP per head in 1993 was $200 compared to $460 in China, $2000 in Thailand, $10,300 in Taiwan, $17,300 in Singapore and $18,000 in Hong Kong. Even on the basis of purchasing power parities Vietnam remains behind the rest of East Asia: $1, 200 per head as against $2,500 in China and $5,500 in Thailand.

The territory of Vietnam is slightly smaller than the state of Calif, but its pop about 75 mil is more than a quarter as large as that of the US. It is the world's 13th and Asia's fifth most populous country. Its territory is elongated along a north-south axis that extends from China to the Gulf of Siam. Only about a quarter of Vietnam is good farmland.

Most of the ethnic Vietnamese, who make up 85% of the population, live in two small core areas of the Red River delta and the City of Hanoi in the north and the Mekong River delta and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) in the south. These two concentrations of population are linked by a long thin band of coastal plains along the South China Sea. Most of the central portion of Vietnam is mountainous and inhabited by ethnic minorities.

Vietnam does have natural resources, including oil, which in 1994 made up 25% of its exports by value, and its potential for tourism is strong. But it is in people - human capital - that it is strikingly rich. The Vietnamese are better educated and healthier than could reasonably be expected for a nation with such low income. Over 4/5 of the population in the country and almost all those living in towns and cities can read and write, the pay-off from state money earlier poured into primary schools. Health spending likewise has produced the welcome result in so poor a country of an infant-mortality rate of 36 per 1,000 live births and an average life expectancy at birth of 67.

As nations go, Vietnam is old. The cultural hearth of the Viet ethnic group, the delta of the Red River in northern Vietnam, was first settled more than three millenia ago. Throughout its recorded history, the delta has had continuous and progressively more intense human habitation.

The movement outward from the cultural hearth put the Vietnamese in contact with both new environments and other peoples, and a consequence the national territory today features great ecological differentiation, ranging from the intense wet-rice agriculture of the lowlands (especially the Red River delta) to extensive swidden exploitation of large parts of the upland territories. Land-hungry Viets spilled out of the crowded Red River valley round Hanoi before the 15th century. Having defeated the Cham people on the central coast, they colonized the south in the 17th and 18th centuries.

A Vietnamese sense of identity was honed in resistance to French rule (1883-1954), to American support for the govt of South Vietnam (1965-75) and to China's ever present attentions and interferences. Chinese cultural influences also shaped Vietnam. These included "Confucian", "male" values - respect for hierarchy, order and rules, a taste for learning, a sense of decorum and a regard for sincerity, courage and perseverance - and for balance, "Buddhist", "female" ones: compassion, flexibility, a feel for equality.

Compared with many countries in the non-Western world, the Vietnamese have a strong sense of national identity. Despite civil war, partition, conquest, regional disparities and growing differences in wealth, its national identity remains enduring. It may be a test that it is a nation, not just geographical entity. Some countries, say Pakistan, break up for good. Others, Turkey for example, teeter for ever. A third sort are impossible whole, impossible in pieces: Afghanistan or Somalia. A fourth kind lasts: China, India, Egypt, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam is the enduring sort.

Vietnam was split into two in 1945, when the job of disarming Japan's army in the north was given to Nationalist Chinese troops and in the south to British ones. After the defeat of the French in 1954 Vietnam was divided at 17th parallel into communist Democratic Republic of Vietnam (north) and American-backed Republic of Vietnam (south). Both north and south speak one language and share common history and culture.

Vietnam war between the North and South Vietnam supported by the US, scarred the landscape and devastated the economy of the country and left more than 2 million Vietnamese soldiers and civilians dead on both sides. Even today, 20 years after Communist North Vietnam defeated U.S.- backed South Vietnam and forcibly reunified the country, Vietnamese are being killed or maimed by unexploded bombs. But for the Vietnamese this war was a little more than a blip on the screen of the countrys 2000 years of recorded history - a saga of recurrent strife, turmoil, invasion, occupation and hardship.

GIAP: Vietnamese General who humbled the big guns. A general, according to the ancient Greek historian and military leader Xenophon, "must be skillful in preparing the materials of war and in supplying his soldiers; he must be a man of mechanical ingenuity, careful, persevering, sagacious, kind and yet severe, open yet crafty, careful of his own but ready to steal from others, profuse yet rapacious, cautious yet enterprising."

Although written nearly 2,400 years ago, these words aptly characterize one of this centurys most brilliantly successful military commanders. North Vietnamese Gen Vo Nguyen Giap, who baffled, stymied and humbled first the French and then the Americans in Vietnam. His North Vietnamese Army - so poor in material resources - prevailed against powerful foes.

Many Vietnamese contributed to the success, but it is Giap who carved out the victories. Like David against Goliath, Giaps strategy against his powerful Western foes was simple: never fight on the adversarys terms. Outgunned by the French and the Americans, he refused to give them battle on the open field where their superior mobility and firepower would be decisive. Instead Giap followed these rules: If the enemy advances, we retreat If he halts, we harass If he avoids battle, we attack If he retreats, we follow

Although disarmingly straightforward, these rules proved effective. Under Giaps leadership, the North Vietnamese Army expelled France in 1954, drove out the US in 1973, and reunified Vietnam in 1975. Although the North Vietnamese and especially the Viet Cong suffered casualities nearly 10 times that of the U.S.-South Vietnamese losses, the potent Tet offensive of 1968 by a supposedly defanged opponent shook the American people.

Ignorant of Vietnamese history and culture, the US failed utterly to understand the dedication and staying power of North Vietnam. America misconstrued the relationship between China and Vietnam, failed to appreciate the intense nationalism of the Vietnamese, and never grasped that Vietnam, as a largely agrarian society with a subsistence economy, could not be crippled by bombings. U.S. bombing never seriously threatened North Vietnams capacity to wage war and that American ground operations never established any real, lasting security in the South Vietnamese countryside. About 58,000 Americans died in Vietnam.

The American people were never fully committed to the war, rightly sensing that their leaders did not know what America was fighting for. American leaders could not grasp the appeal of Vietnamese nationalism. It was a failure of intellect, not will. It was an easy mistake for America to make. America's leaders saw themselves as defending freedom and democracy against world communism. It did not register till too late that most Vietnamese might put up with communism to protect nationalism.

Today, as always, it is China, this countrys large neighbor to the north, that preoccupies Vietnam. China dominated Vietnam for 1,000 years, repeatedly invading and occupying it but never managing to assimilate it. The main streets of Hanoi are named for ancient Vietnamese heroes who vanquished Chinese invaders centuries ago, honing the guerrilla tactics later used against the French and Americans. The last Chinese incursion came in 1979, when the two nations fought a brief border war.

Vietnamese remain distrustful of their historic adversary. China claims islands in the South China Sea that Vietnam considers its territory, and the country worries about Chinese economic domination. With Chinas economy booming, cheap manufactured products are flooding across the border and driving many Vietnamese factories out of business. One of the ironies of Americas intervention in Vietnam was to contain Chinese communism. The misguided effort ignored centuries of enmity and pushed North Vietnam and China into a temporary partnership that broke up when the war was over.

During WW II, Vietnam also suffered terribly at the hands of Japan, which now ranks as one of the countrys leading investors. In 1945 alone, 2 million Vietnamese - 20 percent of the norths population - starved to death near the end of Japans World War II occupation. The Japanese forced peasants to plant jute and other industrial crops instead of rice, and requisitioned food for their own troops. The famine still evokes bitter memories among the Vietnamese. France also colonized the country for 87 years and fought a brutal war to maintain its control until it was defeated in 1954 by Vietnamese forces.

Vietnams Declaration of Independence,Hanoi, Sep 2nd, 1945 "All men are created equal. They are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights, among these are Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Happiness." This immortal statement was made in the Declaration of Independence of the United States of America in 1776. Now if we enlarge the sphere of our thoughts, this statement conveys another meaning: All the peoples on earth are equal from birth, all the peoples have a right to live, be happy and free.

The Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen of the French Revolution in 1791 also states: "All men are born free and have equal rights, and must always be free and have equal rights." These are undeniable truths. Nevertheless for more than eighty years, the French imperialists deceitfully raising the standard of Liberty, Equality, and Fraternity have violated our fatherland and oppressed our fellow citizens. They have acted contrarily to the ideals of humanity and justice. In the province of politics, they have deprived our people of every liberty.

They have enforced inhuman laws; to ruin our unity and national consciousness, they have carried out three different policies in the North, the Center and the South of Vietnam. They have founded more prisons than schools. They have mercilessly slain our patriots; they have deluged our revolutionary areas with innocent blood. They have fettered public opinion; they have promoted illiteracy. To weaken our race they have forced us to use their manufactured opium and alcohol.

In the autumn of the year 1940, when the Japanese fascists violated Indochinas territory to get one more foothold in their fight against the Allies, the French imperialists fell on their knees and surrendered, handing over our country to the Japanese, adding Japanese fetters to the French ones. From that day on, the Vietnamese people suffered hardships yet unknown in the history of mankind. The result of this double oppression was terrific: from Quangtri to the northern border two million people were starved to death in the early months of 1945.

On the 9th of Mar, 1945, the French troops were disarmed by the Japs. Once more the French either fled, or surrendered unconditionally, showing thus that not only were they incapable of "protecting" us, but that they twice sold out to the Japanese. Yet many times before the month of Mar, the Vietminh had urged the French to ally with them against the Japs. The French colonists never answered. On the contrary, they intensified their terrorizing policy. Before taking to flight, they even killed a great number of our patriots who had been imprisoned at Yenbay and Caobang.

Nevertheless, towards the French people our fellow citizens have always manifested an attitude pervaded with toleration and humanity. Even after the Japanese putsch of March 1945 the Vietminh have helped many French men to reach the frontier, have delivered some of them from the Japanese jails, and never failed to protect their lives and properties. The truth is that since the Autumn of 1940 our country had ceased to be a French colony and had become a Japanese outpost. After the Japanese had surrendered to the Allies our whole people rose to conquer political power and institute the Republic of Vietnam.

The truth is that we have wrested our independence from the Japanese and not from the French. The French have fled, the Japanese have capitulated. Emperor Bao Dai has abdicated, our people has broken the fetters which for over a century have tied us down; our people has at the same time overthrown the monarchic constitution that had reigned supreme for so many centuries and instead has established the present Republican Government.

For these reasons, we, members of the Provisonal Govt, representing the whole population of Vietnam, have declared and renew here our declaration that we break off all relations with the French people and abolish all the special rights the French have unlawfully acquired on our Fatherland.

The whole population of Vietnam is united in common allegiance to the republican govt and is linked by a common will, which is to annihilate the dark aims of the French imperialists. We are convinced that the Allied nations which have acknowledged at Teheran and San Francisco the principles of self-determination and equality of status will not refuse to acknowledge the independence of Vietnam.

Although there is still much trauma in Vietnam, and the Communist Party of Vietnam still rules the country, but its old Marxist-Leninist doctrine has been trashed. The values of Western capitalism prevail. The Communists won the war, but lost the peace. The policy of doi moi, or renovation, adaopted in 1986, led to the abandonment of central planning and control, and eager pursuit of a free market.

Lack of infrastructure, poverty, the constantly changing legislation and differing perceptions of priorities are restraining advance in Vietnam .In Vietnam the National Assembly has passed many new pieces of legislation liberalizing the economy, but the middle-ranking bureaucrats remain a problem. In 1992 Vietnam achieved 8.3 % growth in gross domestic product, shaved inflation down to 17% from 70% in 1991 and saw industrial and agricultural production increase substantially.

But without the proper infrastructure, Vietnam cannot meet the rqmnts of foreign investors. In addition, Indochina in the 1990s looks nowhere near as attractive to foreign investors as ASEAN did in the 1980s, when the market economies of SE Asia received investments worth $38 billion (the largest share coming from Japan). Vietnam now has one of the most liberal laws on foreign investment - yet it has garnered only about $3 billion of foreign investment in six years (1988-1993), three-quaters of it in the south, where commercial tradition has much deeper roots than in the north. Far less has gone into tiny Laos.

There were two major considerations in the U.S. recognition of Vietnam. One is American business, which is eager for its share of the riches that Vietnam, its talented people and its offshore waters seem to promise. The other is American geostrategy which views Vietnam as an important asset for the US as it seeks to counter Chinese influence in Asia.

The delay in establishing relations with Vietnam was the difficulty in accounting for Americans still carried on military rolls as missing in action. There are 2302 of them in all of SE Asia, and 1,618 in Vietnam. Far more Americans are listed as missing in the Korean War (8170) and in WW II (78,750). A few years after WW II, the US was engaged in huge rebuilding efforts in Germany and Japan, even though Germans had killed millions of Jews and Japs had tortured prisoners on a vast scale.

The real reason for the delay in normalization of relations with Vietnam lay deeper in the national consciousness of America. The difference between Vietnam and other wars is that the US lost in Vietnam. It is never easy for a world superpower to shake hands after losing the fight to a little country, especially when the superpower has never lost before. The open wound of defeat and resentment over the loss combined with the unresolved controversy over the purpose of the war itself made it hard for America to restore full political and economic relations.

The Vietnam War wreaked havoc on the countrys natural environment but the years since have seen even greater destruction. The population had doubled since the countrys unification in 1975 and the population is expected to reach 82 million by the end of the century. In the last two decades, Vietnams forest has shrunk from 51 million acres to 22 million acres due to population growth.

Less than 1 million acres were destroyed during the war with America, while 13 million were destroyed due to population pressure during the peacetime. If people continue to cut down more forest, practicing their slash and burn methods, it will be a catastrophe for Vietnam. Soil erosion, dwindling mangrove forests, mudslides, a weakening harvest combined with a heavy monsoon will prove an ecological disaster worse than the war.

Vietnam is making transition from planning to the market economy. Farming accounts for over a third of output, industry for just a quarter. Three quarters of Vietnam's workforce of 34 million are in the countryside. The policy of economic change known as doi moi ("new change") was approved in 1986, implemented in 1988-89 and confirmed in 1991. Under the new policy trade was liberalized and foreign investment encouraged, mainly in the form of joint ventures with wholly or partly state-owned enterprises. In 1988 collective farms were scrapped and food prices freed.

The first phase of the economic reform benefitted both the farmers and the city-dwellers. The social cost of closing state industries have not been as devastating in Vietnam as in other former communist economies of Eastern Europe because of its predominantly rural economy. State firms are being turned into joint ventures with foreign participation. The second phase of economic transition in which Vietnam must create a modern infrastructure and institutional framework for a market economy is more difficult. Vietnam has a strong party, but too weak a state bureaucracy to fine-tune development policy.

Foreign investment in Vietnam, though rising fast, has been low by the standards of its neighbors. Taiwan, Hong Kong, South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, France, Australia, and Japan contributed most of the foreign direct investment in 1993. The atmosphere in Vietnam in 1995 suggests early stages of an economic transformation, from the cellular phones and beepers worn by members of the new entrepreneurial class to the television aerials sprouting from peasants thatched huts in the countryside. Vietnams gross national product has been increasing, and two-thirds of the GNP is created in what used to be South Vietnam. The chances are that by early next century a Vietnam of perhaps 120 million hard-working, well-educated people will in the direction of a prosperous nation.

Coke Welcomes You to Hanoi, American Investment in Vietnam. Two newly painted, giant Coca-Cola bottles greet visitors on the four-lane highway from the airport. The Coca-Cola bottling plant is on the verge of opening, and the sign suggests that American companies are in Vietnam to meet competition from Asian and European firms. Billboards for Daewoo, the South Korean conglomerate, and for Sony, Toshiba, Peugeot and British Petroleum dot this city jammed with Honda motor scooters and Japanese cars. Danish, Singaporean and Japanese beer is served at little sidewalk restaurants.

With normalization of relations with Vietnam both nations expect a spur in development and investment. Vietnam has a per capita gross domestic product of $250 a year, but this figure belies an explosion of urban consumer consciousness. For those who can afford the shopfronts along tree-lined boulevards bulge with cartons of Japanese television sets and other goods. Glass cabinets in shops are crammed with Nikon and Olympus cameras, Ray-Ban sunglasses from Bausch & Lomb and competing Ralph Lauren glasses from Optique du Monde. But where does the money come from. Usually, there are two sets of books in Vietnam - one for official money and one for unofficial. There is a huge unofficial money in the economy.

Vietnam has over 73 million people, fewer than Germany but more than France or Britain. Some American manufacturers see a low wage source for parts. Consumer-products companies hope for a potentially large market, and big energy companies are curious about Vietnam's offshore oil and natural gas reserves. Over the last several years, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, South Korea and Japan have led the investment in Vietnam.

American investors have won approval for 11 projects worth $295 million. There are two things which are important to expand the investment: the most-favored-nation-status and financial risk insurance for American businesses. Most-favored-nation-status, which grants countries that trade with the United tates the lowest tariffs on exported goods, must be approved by the Congress as well as obtaining a Presidential finding that Vietnam allows free and open emigration.

Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi and Urban-Rural Divide. The interlinked processes of reform, growth and internationalization which Vietnam is experiencing are making a major impact on the landscape, economy and society in a remarkably uneven manner. Changes are heavily concentrated in and around the urban centers of Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and, to a lesser extent, Da Nang-Hue.

In this respect Vietnamese experience closely mirrors that of Thailand, where rapid economic growth, closely associated with the influx of foreign investment, has been heavily concentrated in the Bangkok Metro Region and its immediate environs, largely bypassing the remainder of the country and the bulk of the population. In 1995, over 89% of the foreign investment was located in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi and their immediate adjacent provinces, compared to 79% in the Bangkok Metro Region.

Ho Chi Minh City, the former Saigon, where American influence is strongest, has witnessed the greatest surge in investment. This is also the area where Vietnamese enjoy the highest standards of living. Ho Chi Minh City , a city of at least 5 million people, swirls with humanity and commerce. Vietnams new free enterprise is everywhere. On many streets, every bldg has a shop on the ground level, and more stalls line the sidewalks selling odorous dried fish, Pepsi and 7-Up, Heineken beer or half a dozen other brands, all brewed in Vietnam, straw baskets, plastic furniture, flowers, textiles, lottery tickets and pho, the ubiquitous and tasty Vietnamese noodle soup.

But the entrepreneurship of southern Vietnam goes for beyond street commerce. Huge new industrial enterprises are beginning to sprout up, firms like the Huy Hoang Company. Huy Hoangs mammoth garment factory covers more than five acres on the Bien Hoa Highway that used to connect Saigon to the huge U. S. air base at Bien Hoa and the Army base at nearby Long Binh.

The first Huy Hoang garment factory opened in 1989 with 100 employees. In 1994 3000 employees worked in two shifts, six days a week sewing stylish clothes for export to Japan and other foreign markets. They are paid piecework rates and earn about $55 a month, big money in a country where per capita income is still less than $250 a year. Coping with growth will not be easy.

In Ho Chi Minh City, govt officials fear becoming another Bangkok, where unplanned growth has choked a giant city and left it virtually unlivable for many of its residents. But there is no indication that the costs of headlong economic development will deter Vietnam from its course of aggressive growth.

In southern Vietnam, high profile incidents of physical abuse against employees at factories working under contract to the American footwear giant Nike have fueled charges that foreign companies exploit Vietnamese labor. For their labors, employees at foreign-owned factories earn about 20 cents an hour, the minimum wage set by a govt keen to attract foreign investment.

The rural-urban divide as well as exploitation of labor in cities  ans the unsettling social consequences that go with it  are likely to widen. Sustained 8 percent growth would virtually abolish poverty in Ho Chi Minh City over the next decade. But in the poorest provinces of Vietnam, 70% of the population would still be classified as poor.
 Hanoi: Urban Development and Preservation Nguyen Cong Tru, a 19th century Vietnamese poet, eulogised Hanois great palaces, temples and ramparts. All of them except a few vanished in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Then came the French colonials who obliterated a number of the old quarters to implement their own urban master plan. More recently, American bombs and Communist ineptitude have left their scars.

But as Hanoi approaches its 1,000th birthday, another threat looms - one that could prove lethal for its core atmosphere and architecture. This time, the danger comes from the incipient economic boom. Isolated from much of the international community during decades of war and revolution, its citizens closely controlled, Hanoi existed in a kind of cocoon. The bulldozer and building crane were rare; the few foreign visitors often described the city as locked in atime warp of the Twenties. Even now, it does not take much imagination to conjure up white colonials, polished mandarins and shadowy revolutionaries.

The changes began in 1986, when the govt announced a package of reforms and an end to hard-line Communism. Breathing a collective sigh of relief, Hanois citizens started to savor greater economic and personal freedomd. A haphazard building spree was sparked, with municipal codes blithely ignored. Land prices soared, foreign businessmen arrived and some locals decided that progress and modernization were measured by the height of a citys highrises. With these trends have come fears that Hanoi will join the growing ranks of Asian cities which have razed their history and thus their special character.

The battle lines are being most clearly drawn within what preservationists call "the soul of old Hanoi." This is a charming, lively quarter in the heart of the city, first settled in the 11th century by craftsmen and merchants catering to the royal household. Here, members of 36 artisan guilds built uniquely styled residences along narrow, twisting alleys named after their specialities - Silver, Sail, Hat-makers, Fish-grillers, Silk and Paper streets. Family shrines and pagodas dedicated to patron saints of the guilds were interspersed among the dwellings.

The so-called 36 Streets quarter has long been considered prime real estate. Residents adapted to the crowded conditions by building "tube houses", structures as narrow as two meters and as deep as 100 meters, with storefronts opening onto the street and living quarters and courtyards to the rear. These they topped with upturned, red-tiled roofs.

Originally designed for single families, most today house a half dozen extended families. The population is increasing rapidly in the 36 Streets but few are willing to move because of the location. Add to this the economic liberalization which has put surplus cash into the hands of once impoverished residents and the result is many houses being torn down and replaced by nondescript, flat roofed structures of three or more storeys. Others are expanded without regard for traditional styles. The skyline is being broken and the atmosphere dissipated. Day by day, the old town is becoming a new town.

The Union of Vietnamese Architects has identified buildings which must be preserved. One scheme mooted would provide cash incentives to those who maintain traditional designs when remodelling their homes. The UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) has vowed to help save the 36 Streets and preserve other parts of the city. The French government has helped train Vietnamese who are restoring the National Library and other colonial buildings. More important will be the attitude and effort of Hanoi officials, and here the mind-sets are mixed. Some appreciate Hanois inherent beauty and its potential value in terms of tourist dollars.

In 1992 these forces won a victory when a master plan was approved that divides the city into various zones and spells out what can and cannot be done in each. But there are also those who are bent on following the path of other Asian cities, eager to see skyscrappers, condominiums and shopping centers. The pressures on even the most conservation-minded are great. Development is the order of the day and the mood is infectious, not to mention profitable. In central Hanoi, a square meter of land is valued at some US$1,000 - compared to about US$50 five years ago in 1988.

Besides the 36 Streets, Hanois center also includes most of the citys colonial buildings. These house families, ministries, museums, embassies and hotels and form probably the finest assemblage of French colonial architecture in the world. Near Hoan Kiem Lake is the former city hall, currently serving as the headquarters for the Communist Party. Adjacent to it is the former residence of the French Treasurer-General, now popularly known as "Uncle Hos House" and containing displays about revotionary leader Ho Chi Minh.

The Opera House, built in 1911 as a scaled-down replica of the Paris Opera, is still used for artistic performances. In the same year, the French built the four-storey Metropole which in its heyday was deemed the finest hotel in Indochina. It went quickly to seed in recent decades (rats were said to be more numerous than guests) but was given a second chance when extensive renovations by the French hotel group Accor propelled it to the undisputed status of modern Hanois only luxury hotel.

The Metropole has been saved and it is unlikely that other important survivors of the colonial era and earlier times, including a number of exquisite temples, will be swept away. But lesser remnants of the past will almost certainly disappear.

High rises are planned around the willow-edged Lake of the Restored Sword, from which legend says a tortoise rose to arm a 15th century hero with a magic sword that saved Hanoi from Chinese invaders. A hotel of 20 storeys is to be constructed by the Opera and twin 24-floor towers containing offices and a hotel will replace the infamous "Hanoi Hilton", a prison where downed American pilots were held during the Vietnam War.

Few will mourn the loss of the prison. But each substraction and addition inevitably takes its toll on the citys overall mystique and landscape. In Hanoi there is great harmony between streets, lakes, trees and buildings. It is a patrimony which belongs to Vietnam and is worth preserving.


\6 DMZ Demiliterized Zone and highways

Highway 1 Mandarin Route and Highway 9, S.Vietnam

Highway 1 North/South coastal hwy started over 200 years ago. The northern terminus of Hway 1 is at Lao Cai, one of two border crossings into China. The southern terminus is at My Tho or Cai Lay in the Mekong Delta.

 Km markers along the road

"The trip was at a crossroads. On the map the thin strand of Highway 14 continued directly north to Kontum and beyond, deteriorating into a trail fit only for mountain bikes and water buffaloes. A second, thicker line ran east from Buon Ma Tout to the coast. In my mind's eye I conjured up the blessed vision of the sun rising over the ocean. It had been raining without end for twetny one solid days.

The next thing I knew I was barreling down the paved -- paved! -- road to the coast, scattering flocks of ducks and phlegmatic pigs sleeping on the warm tarmac.

I reached the intersection of coastal Highway 1 just in time to see the sun cut briefly through the clouds and disappear below the horizon. I was immediately surrounded by beggars and children hawking ID tags and inscribed lighters. A woman tried to wrap my fingers around a cheap imitation switchblade. Another hauled at my arm, shouting the charms of her private guesthouse into my ear. I was back on the tourist trail."

You can't miss it. It's the only paved road connecting Saigon to Hanoi. If you're really stuck, stand facing the sun early in the morning. It will be over your left shoulder if you're in Saigon, your right shoulder if you're in Hanoi. (If you can't see the sun then you must be in the Central Highlands. Just go downhill until you hit the coast).

It starts off flat (from either direction). You'll be pedalling along, enjoying the ocean on one side and the mountains on the other, and WHAM! you'll hit a steep pass. You slog up it, past the broken-down trucks and buses, until you reach the other side and it gets flat again. Just when you've decided that that mountain was some sort of geological abberation, WHAM! another pass.

Don't trust this road. HISTORY I don't know who commisioned the construction of Highway 1, but just about everyone has tried to deconstruct it. The Americans bombed the living daylights out of the road north of the DMZ and the Viet Cong guerrillas did their level best to take out the road south. Given present-day road conditions, it looks like the Americans did a better job.

Although cratered with potholes and plagued with crumbling, pre-war bridges, Highway 1 is the only paved road that runs the length of the country. It has thus become the beaten track in an off-beat country, for tourists eager to experience exotic Vietnam but unwilling to stray too far from English menus and travelers' checks. The standard, two-week itinerary begins in either Saigon or Hanoi and proceeds, via mini-bus or express train, through the familiar guide-book stomping grounds: Nha Trang; a city of copycat Mediterranean beaches and old women plodding the high water line, hawking rough massages and grapefruit halves; Hoi An, once a great trading port for European and Asian ships alike: and Hue, with its recently renovated Imperial Palace and dozens of lesser monuments and its brightly painted dragon boats cruising up and down the muddy Perfume river.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR:<Picture> ALONG THE WAY: Waterfalls, temples and pagodas, views from the mountain passes.

The rice seedling beds along the roadside, a green so bright and concentrated that all other colors faded to gray. The wind blows through them like a hundred burrowing animals, or gentle swells upon an odd-colored sea.

DESTINATIONS: Nha Trang: Hire one of those round woven boats to get a closer look at the lovely, color-coded ships in the harbor.

You can get massages on the beach for about $4 per hour. Just don't tell them you're Russian... (WARNING: sand + massage oil = sandpaper) You may be able to talk your way onto one of those lovely blue-and-red fishing boats if you're willing to stay out at sea for a few days (and you happen to be male).

Sa Huynth: This lovely little seaside village isn't on the express train route and therefore gets overlooked by most foreigners. I liked it better than Hoi An.

The pearly beach and crystal blue waters are stunningly beautiful. Swim only at the end furthest from the village or you may get a rather unpleasant surprise... "I walked down to the water, away from the mob of two hundred children vying for the attention of an unexpected Westerner. Several pink Baler shells lay just above the high-water mark, their graceful curves filled with fly-blown excrement. I had stumbled into the village latrine. I picked my way past an old woman squatting in the sand, carefully averting my eyes from her morning's toilette. She grinned suddenly, made a thumbs up sign and shouted, "America number one!" before sinking back into her reverie."

Lovely pink baler shells and other natural delights are scattered over the entire beach.

The village itself does a lot of boatbuilding. They are happy to let you clamber around on the unfinished boats.

The children in the village delight in tagging along with foreigners. You may have as many as 100 of them entertaining you at full volume.

Take a stroll down the beach where nets are mended, squid cleaned, and baskets repaired.

Hoi An: This place has a lot of history (once known as Faifo, it was a major international port that traded in everything from silk, tea, pepper, mother-of-pearl, to Chinese medicines and elephant tusks. It was also apparently the first permanent European colony. Parts of Hoi An still look like the move set for a Columbus film.

You can find pizza at some of the outdoor restaraunt cafes. It isn't really pizza -- more like ketchup and cheese smeared onto a piece of deflated bread -- but the cheese is real (sort of) and they'll even sprinkle fresh basil on it for you.

Not everything in Hoi An is as it first appears...

Hue: <Picture>The weeds growing in the Palace moat are edible. The renovated buildings in the Imperial Palace are impressive. The rest of the place is exceedingly run down. I spent a lot of time wandering around, pulling creepers off of carved stone dragons and fantisizing about planting flowers.

For some reason the yogurt in Hue was really good (that may be because I had the flu and it was the only thing I could get past my tonsils). The pastries aren't bad either.

Hue has lots of monuments, pagodas, and tombs. There's enough of them that you can just go for a stroll and stop in wherever you hear chanting or see a ruin/temple. Who knows what you might find...

North of the old DMZ: Although the political differences between north and south seem to have been smoothed over, the road itself tells another story. The highway north of the DMZ had suffered intensive bombing and hasn't been properly repaired in twenty years. Potholes have developed potholes on the buckled tarmac. But the condition of road is nothing compared to the lives of the people trying to scrape a living out of the rocky soil along Vietnam's barren neck...


\7 History

Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Vietnam occupies the eastern and southern part of the Indochinese peninsula in SE Asia, with the South China Sea along its entire coast. China is to the north and Laos and Cambodia to the west. Long and narrow on a NS axis, Vietnam is about twice the size of Arizona. The Mekong River delta lies in the south and the Red River delta in the north. Heavily forested mountain and plateau regions make up most of the country.

Government July 2, 1976, was the official reunification date of N. and S.Vietnam. Hanoi became the capital. A new constitution was adopted in Apr 1992 that affirmed the free-market economy and the role of the Communist Party as limited to that of guidance. Foreign assets are guaranteed against nationalization.

History

The Vietnamese are descendants of nomadic Mongols from China and migrants from Indonesia. According to mythology, the first ruler of Vietnam was Hung Vuong, who founded the nation in 2879 B.C.E. From 111 B.C.E. China ruled the nation then known as Nam Viet as a vassal state until the 15th century, an era of nationalistic expansion, when Cambodians were pushed out of the southern area of what is now Vietnam.

A century later, the Portuguese were the first Europeans to enter the area. France established its influence early in the 19th century, and within 80 years conquered the three regions into which the country was then dividedCochin-China in the south, Annam in the central region, and Tonkin in the north.

France first unified Vietnam in 1887, when a single governor-generalship was created, followed by the first physical links between north and southa rail and road system. Even at the beginning of World War II, however, there were internal differences among the three regions. Japan took over military bases in Vietnam in 1940 and a pro-Vichy French administration remained until 1945. Veteran Communist leader Ho Chi Minh organized an independence movement known as the Vietminh to exploit the confusion surrounding France's weakened influence in the region. At the end of the war, Ho's followers seized Hanoi and declared a short-lived republic, which ended with the arrival of French forces in 1946.

Paris proposed a unified government within the French Union under the former Annamite emperor, Bao Dai. Cochin-China and Annam accepted the proposal, and Bao Dai was proclaimed emperor of all Vietnam in 1949. Ho and the Vietminh withheld support, and the revolution in China gave them the outside help needed for a war of resistance against French and Vietnamese troops armed largely by a United States worried about cold war communist expansion.

A bitter defeat at Dien Bien Phu in northwest Vietnam on May 5, 1954, broke the French military campaign and resulted in the division of Vietnam at the conference of Geneva that year. In the new South, Ngo Dinh Diem, premier under Bao Dai, deposed the monarch in 1955 and established a republic with himself as president. Diem used strong U.S. backing to create an authoritarian regime that suppressed all opposition but could not eradicate the Northern-supplied Communist Viet Cong.

Skirmishing grew into a full-scale war, with escalating U.S. involvement. A military coup, U.S.-inspired in the view of many, ousted Diem on Nov. 1, 1963, and a kaleidoscope of military governments followed. The most savage fighting of the war occurred in early 1968 during the Vietnamese New Year, known as Tet. Although the so-called Tet Offensive ended in a military defeat for the North, its psychological impact changed the course of the war.

U.S. public reaction to the seemingly endless conflict made it impossible to commit more than the existing 550,000 U.S. troops, and there was a new emphasis on shifting the burden of combat to South Vietnam's own forces. Ho Chi Minh's death on Sept. 3, 1969, brought a ruling committee to replace him, but no flagging in the Northern will to fight.

U.S. bombing and an invasion of Cambodia in the summer of 1970an effort to destroy Viet Cong bases in the neighboring statemarked the end of major U.S. participation in the fighting. Most American ground troops were withdrawn from combat by mid-1971 when the U.S. conducted heavy bombing raids on the Ho Chi Minh traila crucial North Vietnamese supply line that ran through neighboring Laos and Cambodia, infiltrating men and material into the South.

In 1972, heavy U.S. attacks on Hanoi and Haiphong Harbor forced North Vietnam to the table in secret peace negotiations led by Secretary of State Henry A. Kissinger. When the talks deadlocked President Richard Nixon ordered the Christmas bombing of the North, in an effort to step up pressure on Hanoi's leadership to conclude a deal. The discourse resumed and a peace settlement was signed in Paris on Jan. 27, 1973. It called for the release of all U.S. prisoners, withdrawal of U.S. forces, limitation of both U.S. and North Vietnamese forces inside the South, and a commitment to peaceful reunification of the nation.

An armored charge across the border in Jan. 1975 panicked the South Vietnamese army and brought Hanoi's troops within 40 miles of Saigon, the South's capital, by April 9. South Vietnam's President Thieu resigned on April 21 and fled. Vice President Tran Van Huong assumed the post but quit a week later, turning over the office to Gen. Duong Van Minh. Duong surrendered Saigon on April 30, ending a war that claimed the lives of 1.3 million Vietnamese and 58,000 Americans, at a cost of $141 billion in U.S. aid.

On May 3, 1977, the U.S. and Vietnam opened negotiations in Paris to normalize relations. Two major issues remained to be settled, however: the return of the bodies of some 2,500 U.S. servicemen registered as missing in the war, and the claim by Hanoi that former President Nixon had promised reconstruction aid under the 1973 agreement. Negotiators failed to resolve these issues. With the new year also came an intensification of border clashes between Vietnam and Cambodia, as well as accusations by Beijing that Chinese residents of Vietnam were being subjected to persecution. Beijing cut off all aid and withdrew 800 technicians.

Hanoi was also preoccupied with a continuing war in Cambodia, where 60,000 Vietnamese troops had invaded and overthrown the country's communist leader Pol Pot and his pro-Chinese regime. In early 1979, Vietnam was conducting a two-front war: defending its northern border against a Chinese invasion, and supporting its army in Cambodia which was still fighting Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge guerrillas. Hanoi's Marxist policies combined with the destruction of the country's infrastructure during the decades of fighting devastated Vietnam's economy. However, it started to pick up in 1986 under do Maui (economic renovation), an effort at limited privatization. Vietnamese troops began limited withdrawals from Laos and Cambodia in 1988, and Vietnam supported the Cambodian peace agreement signed in Oct. 1991.

The U.S. lifted a Vietnamese trade embargo in Feb. of 1994 that had been in place since its involvement in the war. Full diplomatic relations were announced between the two countries in July 1995. In April 1997, a pact was signed with the U.S. concerning repayment of the $146 million wartime debt incurred by the South Vietnamese government, and the following year the nation began a drive to eliminate inefficient bureaucrats and streamline the approval process for direct foreign investment. Although reform-minded officials have in recent years won key roles in government, Vietnam's ruling Communist Party has adamantly resisted political changes, even as major economic restructuring has been set in motion People's Liberation Armed Forces - The successor of the Viet Minh of the 40-50s. PLAF Known as Viet Cong was the military arm of the National Liberation Front established in early 1961 and had 30,000 by 1964

Early in 1968 North Vietnam and the Viet Cong launched the Lunar New Year, or Tet, offensive. They struck at cities and towns and US bases. They captured Hue and fought their way into Saigon. So devastating was the onslaught that Johnson admitted that he could no longer unify the country and keep the war out of politics. He chose, therefore, not to run for re-election in 1968. VP Hubert H. Humphrey of Minnesota became the Democratic candidate. His Republican opponent was Richard M. Nixon, who won the election handily.

Vietnam continued to be an issue. Pres Nixon proposed a phased withdrawal of US forces. He favored a policy of "Vietnamization," or turning the defense over to the South Vietnamese. In June and September of 1969 he announced successive withdrawals of 25,000 and 35,000 troops. But the actions were too little, and the protests mounted. Vietnam moratorium days were organized by college students.

Early in 1970 the news that an American unit had massacred civilians--including women and children--at My Lai in 1968 further provoked the protesters. When Pres Nixon ordered troops into Cambodia and resumed the bombing of North Vietnam, many college campuses exploded with riots.

At home Nixon had called for the building of an antiballistic-missile system and the adoption of a tax-reform bill. On Jul 20, 1969, astronauts from Apollo 11 were the first men to land on the moon. In 1970 the US Postal Service was est as an independent agency of the executive branch and the voting age was lowered to 18 under the 26th Amend to the Constitution.

In 1972 the president visited both China and the Soviet Union. The first visit helped to develop economic and cultural exchanges with the Chinese, and the second resulted in a treaty limiting the use of strategic weapons. By Oct the US and North Vietnam had agreed to a cease-fire in Vietnam, the return of American prisoners of war, and the withdrawal of all US forces.

In Nov 1972 Nixon decisively defeated Senator George S. McGovern in the pres race. In Dec, as the US resumed the bombing of North Vietnam, the pres claimed that the enemy had not bargained in good faith. But in Jan 1973 the North Vietnamese agreed to release their prisoners within 60 days. The US withdrew all of its troops by the end of Mar. More than 47,000 Americans had been killed and more than 300,000 wounded. The war may have cost some 200 billion dollars. (See also Vietnam War.)

Some events of 1973 caused new problems for Nixon. The price of wheat on the world mkt increased considerably. VP Spiro T. Agnew, accused of income-tax evasion and accepting bribes while governor of Maryland, resigned his position in Oct. He was replaced by Congressman Gerald R. Ford of Michigan--the nation's first appointed vice-pres. Earlier in Oct war broke out between Israel and the Arab states.

The fighting was brief, and an acceptable UN cease-fire was worked out. But the Arabs, in an effort to get land concessions from the Israelis, imposed a petroleum boycott on the US, Japan, and the countries of Western Europe. OPEC nations then raised the price from about three dollars per barrel to nearly twelve dollars, and the cost of gasoline at the pump skyrocketed.

Watergate Scandal - Agents hired by the Committee for the Re-Election of the Pres broke into the Democratic National Committee hdqrs at the Watergate complex in Wash, D.C., on Jun 17, 1972. They had penetrated the files and installed listening devices. The pres repeatedly denied that anyone in his admin was involved in the break-in.

In 1973 several of Nixon's closest advisers resigned. When it was revealed that White House conversations and telephone calls had been recorded, Congress subpoenaed the tapes, but Nixon refused to release them. In 1974 a special prosecutor called for the tapes. Claiming executive privilege, the pres refused to release all of the White House recordings.

The Supreme Court ruled that the president must give up the additional tapes, and he surrendered some that implicated him in the cover-up of the Watergate break-in. It was also revealed that he owed more than 400,000 dollars in unpaid income taxes. Public opinion against Nixon continued to mount, and arrangements were made for his impeachment and trial by the Senate.

On Aug. 8, 1974, Nixon appeared on television to resign the presidency, and the next day Vice-President Ford became president. Ford pardoned the ex-president for any and all offenses he might have committed against the United States.

Ford Administration - Soon after the controversial pardon the new pres proclaimed a conditional amnesty for those who had resisted service during the Vietnam War. Ford's decision that they would have to serve the country in a civilian capacity for two years, rather than receive unconditional amnesty, was not a popular one.

Inflation, recession, and unemployment--holdovers from the Nixon years--plagued the new president. Ford called on people to wear WIN (Whip Inflation Now) buttons to draw attention to the economic problem. But the economy slumped, and unemployment soared to more than 9 percent. Taxes were cut to stimulate business activity, and social programs--designed to help the urban poor--were also cut.

Meanwhile the situation in the Far East had deteriorated. Saigon, the capital of South Vietnam, fell to the North Vietnamese in Apr 1975. A pro-US govt in Cambodia had already been toppled, and on May 12 Cambodian forces seized the American merchant ship Mayaguez in the Gulf of Thailand.

Calling it an act of piracy, Ford ordered US Marines to attack Tang Island, where the Mayaguez was held. The Cambodians claimed they had already released the ship when the Marines struck, but the crew had been removed. After the assault 18 servicemen were reported killed or missing, and the Mayaguez and its crew were recovered.

In Aug 1976 Ford was nominated for pres on the first ballot at the Rep national convention in Kansas City, Mo. In the Nov election he was beaten by his Democratic opponent, former Georgia Governor Jimmy Carter.


\8 Culture

An understanding of history still goes a long way in Vietnam, since the country has a unique civilisation and a highly cultured people. Most visitors to Vietnam are overwhelmed by the sublime beauty of the country's natural setting: the Red River Delta in the north, the Mekong Delta in the south and almost the entire coastal strip are a patchwork of brilliant green rice paddies tended by women in conical hats. VNam offers a rare opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and beauty taking the first hestitant steps into the modern world.

The country has rapidly climbed out of its post-war fatigue and the boom in budget travelling coupled with the lifting of Vietnamese government restrictions have enabled more contemporary and relevant portraits of the country to gain currency in the West. Vietnam offers a rare opportunity to see a country of traditional charm and beauty taking the first hestitant steps into the modern world.

Four great philosophies and religions have shaped the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people: Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and Christianity. Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have melded with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what is known as Tam Giao (or `Triple Religion').

The Vietnamese language (kinh) is a hybrid of Mon-Khmer, Tai and Chinese elements with many of its basic words derived from the monotonic Mon-Khmer languages. The most widely spoken foreign languages in Vietnam are Chinese (Cantonese and Mandarin), English, French and Russian, more or less in that order.

Popular artistic forms include: traditional painting produced on frame-mounted silk; an eclectic array of theatre, puppetry, music and dance; religious sculpture; and lacquerware.

Vietnamese cuisine is especially varied - there are said to be nearly 500 different traditional dishes, ranging from exotic meats such as bat, cobra and pangolin to fantastic vegetarian creations (often prepared to replicate meat and fish dishes). However, the staple of Vietnamese cuisine is plain white rice dressed up with a plethora of vegetables, meat, fish, spices and sauces. Spring rolls and steamed rice pancakes are popular snacks, and the ubiquitous soups include eel and vermicelli, shredded chicken and bitter soups. Some of the more unusual fruits available include green dragon fruit, jujube, khaki, longan, mangosteen, pomelo, three-seed cherry and water apple. Vietnamese coffee is excellent.

Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas on days when the moon is either full or the merest sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian food on these days. Some of the major religious festivals follow a lunar calendar. They include: Tet (late Jan-early Feb), the most important festival of the year, marking the new lunar year as well as the advent of spring; Wandering Souls Day (August), the second-largest festival of the year, when offerings of food and gifts are given to the wandering souls of the forgotten dead; Doan Ngu (June), when human effigies are burnt, becoming soldiers in the god of death's army; and Holiday of the Dead (April), which commemorates deceased relatives.

Visas: In most cases travellers are better off getting visas arranged by travel agents rather than tackling the Vietnamese embassies themselves. A 30-day Vietnamese visa costs US$40 from an agent in Bangkok; unfortunately, visa extensions seem to be a thing of the past.

Health risks: dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies, typhoid, tuberculosis and a minor threat (especially to pregnant women) of dioxins found in the defoliant Agent Orange Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz Weights & Measures: Metric with local variations (see the conversion table.) Tourism: 650,000 visitors per year

Currency: dong Relative costs: Budget meal: US$1-2 Restaurant meal: US$4-8 Top-end meal: US$40 Budget room: US$8-15 Mid-range hotel: US$35-50 Top-end Hotel: $US150-200

Travellers staying in budget accommodation and eating in small cafes should be able to get by on around US$20 per day, plus long-distance transport costs. Those wanting to stay in mid-range hotels, eat out at moderate restaurants, charter occasional taxis and enjoy the nightlife should budget on around US$65 a day.

Until recently, many upmarket hotels insisted that you pay in US$, but now all businesses (except Vietnam Airlines) must accept payment in dong. In practice, many still display their prices in US$. It's advisable to bring US$ travellers' cheques and a little US$ cash.

There are four ways to exchange currency: at a bank; through authorised exchange bureaus; at hotel reception desks; and on the black market. The best rates are offered by the banks, but the exchange bureaus are generally more conveniently located and have longer opening hours. The black market rate is worse than the legal exchange rate, so if you're offered better rates than a bank it's bound to be some sort of scam. Visa and MasterCard credit cards are accepted in the major cities and towns popular with tourists.

It's virtually impossible to exchange foreign currency outside the major cities and tourist areas. Visitors heading off the beaten track will either need to stock up on dong or conduct a private cash transaction on the black market. It's a good idea to bring a small calculator with you for currency conversions, unless you're the kind of person who can divide or multiply numbers by 11,000 in your head.

Government-run hotels and tourist restaurants usually add a 10% service charge to bills so there's no need to tip. Leaving a small tip in other restaurants will be greatly appreciated by the staff. You should consider tipping hired drivers and guides, and it's polite to leave a small donation at the end of a visit to a pagoda. Bargaining is commonplace but should be engaged in with a smile and considered a form of social discourse rather than a matter of life and death.

When to Go There are no good or bad seasons to visit Vietnam. When one region is wet or cold, or steamy hot, there is always somewhere else that is sunny and warm. Basically, the south has two seasons: the wet (May to November, wettest from June to August) and the dry (December to April). The hottest and most humid time is from the end of February to May. The central coast is dry from June to October. The north has two seasons: cool, damp winters (November to April) and hot summers (May to October). The highland areas are significantly cooler than the lowlands, and temperatures can get down to freezing in winter. There is the possibility of typhoons between July and November, affecting the north and central areas.

Travellers should take the Tet new-year festival (late January or early February) into account when planning a trip. Travel (including international travel) becomes very difficult, hotels are full and many services close down for at least a week and possibly a lot longer.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Ho Chi Minh City is the heart and soul of Vietnam. It's a bustling, dynamic and industrious centre, the largest city, the economic capital and the cultural trendsetter. The streets, where much of the city's life takes place, is a myriad of shops, stalls, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks. The city churns, ferments, bubbles and fumes. Yet within the teeming metropolis are the timeless traditions and beauty of an ancient culture. Sights include the Giac Lam Pagoda, the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, Reunification Hall, Cholon market and the former US embassy, scene of such havoc during the 1975 evacuations.

Central Ho Chi Minh City is the place to be on Sunday and holiday nights. The streets are jam-packed with young locals cruising the town on bicycles and motorbikes, out to see and be seen. The Municipal Theatre area is the hub for young hipsters. Entertainment ranges from disco and karaoke in the larger hotels, loud Western music in bars such as the Hard Rock Cafe, dancing at the Rex Hotel or experiencing traditional Vietnamese music at the Conservatory of Music. Most forms of entertainment can be found in downtown Ho Chi Minh City along Mac Thi Buoi Street.

Budget travellers tend to congregate around Pham Ngu Lao St at the western end of District 1. Cholon has plenty of cheap rooms, but Western backpackers are still rare here. Travellers with a little more cash prefer the more upmarket hotels concentrated around Dong Khoi St at the eastern side of District 1. Pham Ngu Lao and De Tham Sts form the axis of Saigon's haven of budget eateries.

Dalat The city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region. In the past it was renowned as a cool, green city with a park-like environment. This is changing fast, as the economy booms and life speeds up. Still, Dalat is definitely worth a visit and it's a good base for trips into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed by locals the Crazy House. It's a counter-cultural gem created by artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga).

The Emperor Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and everyday objects, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll around the old French Quarter. The Valley of Love, 5km (3mi) north of the city centre, is a bizarre place where you can hire a paddle boat on the lake or a horse from one of the Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed, dressed as cowboys.

There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bike) in the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners. Further out, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).

Dalat is famous for its coffee shops, and is extremely popular with domestic tourists and honeymooners. There's a lot of accommodation but much of it is fully booked..You can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City, but the airport is 30km (19mi) from town; express buses also link the two cities.

Nha Trang Although it could well develop into a flashy resort such as Thailand's Pattaya Beach, Nha Trang is still fairly quiet. Things are moving, though, so see it while it lasts! With very clear turquoise waters, snorkelling and diving are prime activities, and just lazing on the town beach is an experience in itself. You'll be offered everything from lunch to a manicure.

When you tire of the beach, there are some interesting sites nearby, such as the Cham Towers of Po Nagar, built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site that had been used for Hindu worship as early as the 2nd century.

Nha Trang's dry season runs from June to September, different from Ho Chi Minh City's. In the past, accommodation here tended to be fully booked much of the time, but many new hotels are being built. If you find that all the beachside hotels are full, try the ones near the railway station. Nha Trang is a major fishing port, so excellent seafood is available. You'll find the best restaurants in the central area. The exotic dragon fruit (thanh long) grows only in the Nha Trang area. It's about the size and shape of a small pineapple, but tastes something like a kiwifruit. The fruit is in season from May to September, when you can find it served as a drink.

Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City; express buses take about 12 hours. Express trains run to both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, and there are daily flights to Ho Chi Minh City.

Hue The most beautiful city in Vietnam, Hu was the country's capital from 1802 to 1945, and has long been a major cultural, religious and educational centre. The remains of the huge, moated Citadel, constructed by the Emperor Gia Long from 1804, contain many interesting sights, such as the Nine Holy Cannons, the Imperial Enclosure, the Palace of Supreme Harmony and the Halls of the Mandarins. Sadly, the intriguing Purple Forbidden City was largely destroyed during the Vietnam War. About 15km (9mi) south of Hu are the Royal Tombs. Hu has many other places of religious and dynastic importance, and some good museums.

If you want to get out of the city for a swim, head 13km (8mi) north-east to Thuan An Beach, where there's a lagoon, a hotel and the possibility of sampan trips up the Perfume River. Vehicles from Hu's Dong Ba bus station run here.

There's a range of accommodation in Hu to suit most budgets, and some good restaurants. Hu has a long tradition of vegetarian food, which is prepared at pagodas for the monks. Stalls in the markets serve vegetarian food on the 1st and the 15th days of the lunar month, and there are several restaurants serving it all the time.

Hu is about 700km (434mi) from Hanoi and 1100km (682mi) from Ho Chi Minh City. The Reunification Express train running between those cities stops here, and there are frequent flights and buses to both cities.

Hanoi Smaller, quieter, greener and more dignified than Ho Chi Minh City, the nation's capital can sometimes look like a provincial French city. This, like most things in Vietnam, is changing fast as economic restrictions are lifted and old regulations are forgotten. Life (and traffic, unfortunately) is returning to the streets and shopping no longer means a trip to a dreary government department store. Still, the city remains quiet enough for cycling to be the ideal means of getting around, and many hotels and cafes rent bicycles.

Places to visit include the fascinating 11th-century Temple of Literature (site of Vietnam's first University), the 15th-century Old Quarter, some enchanting lakes and temples, and the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.

Budget accommodation can be scarce in Hanoi, especially between June and September, but many people rent rooms and with some searching you should find something. Whatever your budget, you'll pay more for accommodation in Hanoi than elsewhere in the country. Hanoi has plenty of domestic and international air connections, and is connected with Ho Chi Minh City by the Reunification Express train.

Halong Bay Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000 islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin, is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave of three chambers. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into the sea', and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.

Taking a tour of the bay is the main activity here. If you want to see a lot, choose a fast boat. If you want a romantic experience but with the risk of getting hardly anywhere, look for one of the old junks. You have to charter the whole boat, but there are usually enough travellers around to make up a party and keep costs down.

The main town in the region is Halong City, which is in two halves, one on the mainland and one on a neighbouring island. Halong City West, on the island, is the more scenic. Masochists might try seeing the bay on a day-trip from Hanoi, but most travellers catch the ferry from Hanoi to Haiphong and board another ferry there to Halong City East and spend at least one night here. There are plenty of reasonable hotels, mostly in or near Halong West.

Off the Beaten Track Ha Tien Situated on the Gulf of Thailand, 8km (5mi) from the Cambodia border, the town of Ha Tien and its surrounding area are famous for their warm-water, white-sand beaches and fishing villages. The area is also noted for its seafood, black-pepper tree plantations and towering limestone formations. The rock formations around the town support a network of caves, many of which have been turned into cave temples. Ha Tien is a 10-hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City. Because of uncleared land mines and booby traps, be wary of travelling off the beaten track near the Cambodian border.

Sam Mountain In the Mekong Delta, 3km (2mi) from the riverine commercial centre of Chau Doc and not far from the Cambodian border, this area is known for its dozens of pagodas and cave temples. Favoured by ethnic-Chinese pilgrims and tourists, the shrines feature tombs and fine examples of traditional Vietnamese design and artisanship.

Central Highlands The western region of the Central Highlands area, along the border with Cambodia and Laos, still sees few visitors. The region's varied agriculture and the presence of up to 31 distinct ethnic groups make it a fascinating destination. Towns such as Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku and Kontum are peopled by ethnic minority groups, while Tua and Ban Don society is matrilineal and matrilocal.

Hoi An An important river port 30km (19mi) south of Danang, Hoi An is rich in history and has a unique character. It was a contemporary of Macau, attracting Dutch, Portuguese and Japanese trading vessels, and it retains the feel of centuries past. Its magnificent collection of almost 850 older structures and intact streetscapes just beg to be explored. They include merchants' homes, pagodas, public buildings and a whole city block of colonnaded French buildings.

Sapa Located at an altitude of 1600m (6112ft) in the remote North-Western Highlands, Sapa entrances most visitors. It was built as a hill station for the French in 1922, but went into a long decline from which it has only recently recovered. More and more travellers are braving the bad roads and flocking here for the climate (cold in winter) and to visit the hill tribes (mostly Hmong, Dao and Kinh people) who live in the area. The Saturday market is the best place to buy handicrafts. Accommodation can be tight, especially on weekends when tour parties visit. Just 9km (5.5mi) from Sapa is Fansipan (3143m/10,309ft), which is Vietnam's highest mountain. A hike to the top and back takes about four days, and you'll need a guide and decent equipment, as it is usually wet and cold. You can get to within 30km (19mi) of Sapa by train from Hanoi. Once you reach Lao Cai, you'll need to transfer to a local bus.

Dien Bien Phu Dien Bien Phu, in the heart-shaped Muong Thanh Valley near the Lao border, is in one of the remotest parts of Vietnam. The valley is surrounded by steep heavily forested hills and the area is inhabited by hill tribes, notably the Tai and Hmong. Dien Bien Phu was the site of that rarest of military events, a battle that can be called truly decisive. It was here in 1954 that Viet Minh forces overran the beleaguered French garrison after a 57-day siege, forcing the French government to abandon its attempts to re-establish colonial control of Indochina. The site of the battle is marked by a small museum, which eloquently tells the story of Vietnamese determination to be rid of the colonial forces.

You can fly to Dien Bien Phu from Hanoi, but getting to the town overland is half the fun since the surrounding mountains are so beautiful. Buses are generally too crowded to appreciate the splendid scenery so do yourself a favour and hire a jeep. It's a two-day, 420km (260mi) trip from Hanoi, so count on hiring a jeep for five days, which should cost around US$400.

National Parks Cuc Phuong, 140km (87mi) from Hanoi, preserves 222 sq km (87 sq mi) of primary tropical forest. It's home to an amazing variety of wildlife, with animals such as the yellow macaque and the spotted deer, and has many grottoes, one of which has yielded prehistoric stone tools. More beautiful however is Cat Ba Island, 30km (19mi) east of Haiphong. Its diverse ecosystems include tropical evergreen forests, freshwater swamp forests, coastal mangroves, freshwater lakes and waterfalls, grottoes, caves, sandy beaches and offshore coral reefs. It's home to monkeys, boars, deer, squirrels and hedgehogs, and its offshore waters are also heavily populated by fish, molluscs, arthropods, seals and dolphins. It is hoped that plans to designate massive areas of land as national parks go ahead.

Activities Vietnam has 3260km (2021mi) of coastline, and you can hire snorkelling and diving gear at most beach resorts. The most popular beaches are Vung Tau, just north of the Mekong Delta, and Nha Trang, near Dalat. There is good hiking, horse riding and cycling in the beautiful countryside around Dalat. Vietnam is a favourite place with long-distance cyclists because much of the country is flat and the shortage of vehicles makes for light traffic. Groups of Western cyclists have begun touring, especially around the Mekong Delta.

Spelunkers should head for the spectacular Pong Nha river caves, north-west of Dong Hoi. Those interested in the Vietnam War can walk part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a series of roads, trails and paths used as supply routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. It ran from North Vietnam southward through the Truong Son Mountains and into western Laos. Those with a 4WD can drive a 60km (37mi) stretch between Aluoi and Hue. The network of tunnels at Cu Chi (35km (22mi) from Saigon) and Vinh Moc (near the old border between North and South Vietnam) enable visitors to experience the claustrophobic life led by villagers and guerrillas during the war.

Off the record: Cu Chi tunnels Getting There & Away Bangkok, only 80 minutes flying time from Ho Chi Minh City, is the main port of embarkation for air travel to Vietnam, followed closely by Hong Kong. There are also direct Bangkok-Hanoi flights. Vietnam Air, the government airline, still has a stranglehold on flights into the country, although other airlines are allowed some access. Consequently, there aren't many bargain deals available. The departure tax on international flights is US$8 from Ho Chi Minh City and US$7 from Hanoi.

It's become very popular to cross the border at Dong Dang, 20km (12mi) north of Lang Son in north-east Vietnam, to get to/from Nanning in China's Guangxi Province. The other popular border crossing is at Lao Cai in north-west Vietnam, which lies on the railway line between Hanoi and Kunming in China's Yunnan Province. A new Hanoi-Beijing passenger train began operating in February 1996. Buses run daily between Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City via the Moc Bai border checkpoint. It's possible to enter Laos from Lao Bao in north-central Vietnam. Note that Vietnamese visas specify your departure point from the country. If you want to change this you'll have to pay a visit to the immigration police or the Foreign Ministry.

Getting Around Vietnam Airlines has a near-monopoly on domestic flights, which are relatively expensive. Thanks to a new computerised booking system, buying a ticket is fairly painless, although you will have to show your visa and/or passport. It's usually faster to buy a ticket from an airline office rather than a travel agent. The departure tax on domestic flights is d15,000.

Ramshackle, slow and hugely overcrowded buses run just about everywhere in the country, at rock-bottom fares. Bus travel is definitely uncomfortable and frustrating, but if you treat it as a social function rather than a means of getting from A to B, you should survive with your sanity intact. Most long-distance buses leave early in the morning, so it's a good idea to buy your ticket the night before. There are express buses, but few are really fast. Count on an average speed of 50kmh (31mph) for a genuine express bus, 35kmh (22mph) for a so-called express bus and 25kmh (15mph) for an ordinary bus.

Public minibuses suffer the same drawbacks as public buses. The alternative, used by many foreigners, is to charter a minibus. They cost more but they are much more comfortable. You'll find people taking bookings in popular tourist destinations. Budget hotels and cafes are the best places to start looking.

Train travel can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you're likely to have decent legroom. There are several types of train; you definitely don't want a crowded, snail-paced local train. Petty theft can be a problem on trains, especially in budget class. Children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you're advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place.

Hire cars and drivers are available at reasonable prices. You'll still be stopped by the police to pay all sorts of 'fines', but at least you'll have a local with you to do the negotiating. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road (most of the time). You can hire a motorcycle to drive yourself if you have an International Driver's Permit endorsed for motorcycles. The anarchic traffic is a big hazard, as is the possibility of scams. There have been reports of the renter stealing the bike (the renter has a key to the lock) and charging the customer an outrageous sum as compensation. If you have left your passport as security you won't have much choice but to pay up.

Travelling through Vietnam by bicycle is worth considering, though the traffic is still a hazard on highways without wide shoulders. Trains and buses will carry your bike when you want a break.

Other than a few ancient and infrequent buses, local transport is by taxi (some metered, some not) or cyclo (pedal-powered conveyances that are cheap and plentiful). The Vietnamese government has announced plans to phase out cyclos in a cosmetic bid to improve Vietnam's image. If you're in a hurry and have nerves of steel, try flagging down any passing motorbike. Many people will be happy to give you a lift for a fee a little higher than the equivalent cyclo fare.


\9 Mythical stories

Ask any Vietnamese about the origin of his people, and most likely he will tell you that they were born of a dragon and a fairy ("con rong chau tien"). Certainly this unscientific explanation, and one that can hardly be sustained or demonstrated historically, yet the power of that myth is such that no Vietnamese, no matter how much scientific training he has received, would ever deny believing in it at least to a certain extent. The Vietnamese myth of origin then, is a matter of belief, of faith, that mountains of evidence to the contrary cannot change.

Historically, Vietnam has served as a fertile ground for all kinds of beliefs and religions. Yet regardless of religious belief, whether Buddhism, Catholicism, Protestantism, Taoism, or animism, Vietnamese share the conviction that they came from the same source, originating from the same womb -- hence, they call one another dong-bao ("born of the same womb"). It is this power of myths that sustains the Vietnamese throughout their history, that keeps them together despite their other differences. Let us then travel backwards in time to when these myths originated, a time predating recorded history by centuries if not millennia, when the Vietnamese all shared a common set of beliefs, later on taken down as "the mythology" of Vietnam.

There exists no written record of how the first Vietnamese conceived of the world and its creation. The idea of the world being born out of a primeval egg appears later in Vietnamese literature of the 15th century but it does not seem to fit with the even more widespread traditional belief in the existence of an "August Heaven" (Ong Troi, in Vietnamese). "August Heaven" is a concept often interpreted anthropomorphically, but in actuality it is more like a first principle of sacred energy leading to the creation of the universe.

The prehistoric Dongsonian bronze drums, which date back to about 500 B.C., show many representations of the sun on their main surface. The Dongsonian civilization, one of the great bronze civilizations of the world, roughly corresponds to the first millennium B.C. It had as one of its great centers of development the location presently corresponding to the village of Dongson in Thanh Hoa province, Vietnam, after which the whole civilization is named. These drums have led to the speculation that the Vietnamese at the time were sun-worshippers. There is very little trace of sun-worship in Vietnam in historical times, however, and this raises the tantalizing possibility that the original sun-worship had been assimilated in the concept of "August Heaven," possibly an import from China, for in many ways the concept of "August Heaven" is conterminous with the Chinese concept of T'ien.

At any rate, the Vietnamese "August Heaven" is credited with creating everything that we know to exist on earth. "Troi sinh voi, troi sinh co," for instance, is a typical statement of fact to the Vietnamese: "Heaven creates the elephants, it creates [also] the grass" that serves as fodder for these animals. "August Heaven" is omnipresent and omniscient ("Troi co mat," "Heaven has [all-seeing] eyes"). Furthermore, it is like a child in that it sometimes causes damage to people on a vast, grand scale, without realizing it ("Troi hanh con lut moi nam," "Every year Heaven hits [us] with a great flood"). But "August Heaven" is also the principle of justice at work. It has an ethical role to play, as judge in the moral universe: "Troi phat," ("Heaven punishes"), "Troi quo," ("Heaven reprimands"), "Troi danh tranh bua an," ("Even Heaven avoids punishing people when they are eating"). But unlike some gods of other religions like Allah, the God of Islam, he is not unforgiving or even a very forbidding figure: apparently he does bend a little when he hears pleas or prayers. Thus a very well know little ditty goes: "Lay Troi mua xuong, Lay nuoc toi uong, Lay ruong toi cay...," ("I kowtow to Heaven that It send rain, so that I have water to drink and water for my fields..."). And also, Heaven at least is very approachable: a children's verse says, "Giung giang giung gie, Dat tre di choi, Den cong nha Troi, Lay Cau lay Mo, Cho chau ve que...," ("Let's hold hands/And walk, kids./Arriving at Heaven's Gate,/We'll say, 'Uncle! Auntie!/Allow us to go home..."'). In this sense, he is an eminently Vietnamese god. Because "August Heaven" is so much more important than every other god in the Vietnamese pantheon, the Vietnamese have been perceived by many as being essentially a monotheistic people long before the development of Christianity with its one and unique God.

Besides "August Heaven," the Vietnamese also have "August Moon" (Ong Trang) -- which seems to support the original interpretation of Ong Troi as "August Sun" rather than its later meaning of "August Heaven." When "August Moon" was later anthropomorphized into a male deity it was contrasted to the Chinese moon, which became Ba Nguyet, a female deity. But be it man, woman or an androgynous person, the moon in Vietnamese mythology is credited for being the source of the calendar, and for providing much needed light at night, especially at harvest time when the reaping of the rice does not wait. The moon was also seen by the Vietnamese as an inspiration and a lover, possibly even before the introduction of the Chinese myth of Heng 0, a cold beauty living in the Ice Palace up there.

The Story of Cuoi According to Vietnamese mythology, the person living in the moon is named Cuoi, a buffalo boy who lost his father at a tender age. He was raised by his mother with the help of an uncle, but proved to be a pest because of his constant lies. He lied to Heaven, he lied to Earth, and even to himself. He lied not in a malicious way, but mostly to get by, to survive.

There are many stories associated with Cuoi. In one of them he is sent to the hills to fetch some firewood. As usual, he soon forgets about his task when he encounters some tiger cubs. After playing with them for a while, he hits upon the wicked idea of breaking their necks. Right away, he hears the mother's roars as she comes running home. Scared out of his wits, Cuoi hastily climbs up a nearby tree. The tigress is beside herself when she discovers her injured cubs. She does not, however, just lament, but at once goes after some leaves of a nearby banyan tree. After chewing on the leaves, she applies the concoction to the cubs. Soon the little ones regain their color and are up on their feet. Mother and cubs then leave to go home. Cuoi can hardly believe his eyes. When he is certain that the tigress is long gone he carefully climbs down from the tree, grabs a root from the medicinal plant and rushes home, and plants the root. Thereafter he becomes a famous doctor known for his miraculous cures. One day he even revives the dead daughter of a rich man who, in gratitude, gives Cuoi his beautiful daughter in marriage. The two of them live happily as husband and wife for a time, but soon the woman grows tired of her husband caring more about the tree than herself. Despite the fact that he has warned her on many occasions not to harm the tree, she nonetheless becomes so mad one day that she goes out and urinates on it. Apparently it is a very clean tree, for it uproots itself and flies up to heaven. Cuoi comes home in time only to see the tree take off. Having no time left for explanation, he merely throws his axe at the tree which keeps flying up and takes him along. To this day the Vietnamese believe he still lives on the moon.



Cuoi is not a deity, even to the Vietnamese. But he is very Vietnamese in the sense that his life story reflects a deeply felt belief in fatalism. Despite his lies and mischief, he is "fated" to be happy. Cuoi, by most standards, is not a very worthy character, but he is humane, he is fun to be with (he is not so much a liar as a bluffer whose white lies are often seen through by sagacious people), and in many ways he is harmless. Despite all his faults, Heaven still smiles on him, revealing the Vietnamese people's basic optimism, and he still proves to be a useful person (a miracle-working doctor) after all.

Heroes and Heroines Compared to the brilliant drama of Cuoi's tale, most stories regarding other characters in Vietnamese mythology are less well-developed. There are stories about minor deities like Ong Sam ("August Thunder") and Ba Set ("Goddess Mrs. Lightning") as well as various tales about the stars, also considered minor deities. But these stories never struck the imagination of the Vietnamese to the same extent that inspired them to create memorable story cycles as in the case of Cuoi. One minor deity, Ong Sam or "August Thunder," for instance, is seen as more noise than substance. He is depicted as a rather chicken-hearted fellow, almost the opposite of thunder gods elsewhere. Sent down to punish an evil character on earth, he blunders through the whole mission, slips on the roof of the house and falls on his behind, hears what he thinks to be a dire threat and flees in terror.

Vietnamese myths about heroes and heroines have been better preserved than myths about Vietnamese deities, but seem to have been somewhat altered by outside influences as they were handed down through the generations.

There are several explanations for this. For one, the recording of Vietnamese myths began rather late, only in the 13th century at the earliest, long after the so-called "Age of Myths" in Vietnamese literature (which one 16th century authority defined as the Hung "dynasty" of 2879 to 256 B.C.). By comparison, the Japanese started recording their myths in the eighth century: at such an early date many of the myths were still vivid in people's minds. Secondly, by the 13th or 14th century also, the Vietnamese had been greatly influenced by the rationalist thinking of Chinese Confucianism; thus the authors of the Viet Dian U Linh, the first collection of Vietnamese myths, for instance, deliberately left out many details of the stories of the gods which seemed unrealistic to them. The second major collection of Vietnamese myths, the Linh Nam Chich Quai ("Strange Stories Picked Up in Lingnan"), is somewhat more respectful of tradition but note that the myths and stories "picked up" and recounted therein were still perceived as "strange."

A third explanation, of course, is simply that the Vietnamese did not have a mythology worth talking about. But this seems unlikely since what remains today is impressive enough that it must have come from a much richer body of myths, a body that we are now reduced to getting only tantalizing glimpses of.

Myth of origin of the Vietnamese Race: The Dragon and the Fairy

Instead of speculating, however, let us turn to a myth that all Vietnamese are familiar with, the myth of origin of the Vietnamese race.

THE HONG BANG FAMILY King Minh [Chinese, Ming], a third generation offspring of Than Nong [Chinese, Shen Nong] or the Viem Da [Chinese, Yen Ti] clan, begot King Nghi [Chinese, Yi]. One day, as he was touring the South he met with the daughter of Immortal Lady Vu [Chinese, Wu] in the Five Range Mountain and he married her. On coming home, she gave birth to Loc Tuc [Chinese, Lu Xu].

Tuc had a noble face, was intelligent and generous in nature. King Minh was delighted and wanted Loc Tuc to inherit his throne. Loc Tuc refused and asked that the honor be given to his brother. King Ming therefore made Nghi inherit his northern throne, invested Loc Tuc with the title of King of Kinh Duong [Chinese, Jing Yang] and made him rule the South, which became the country of Xich Quy ["Red Demons"].

The King of Kinh Duong had the gift of going underwater. He married the daughter of the Dragon King under Dongting Lake and begot Sung Lam, whose title was Dragon Lord of the Lac [People], to whom he left his throne. It was not known where the King of Kinh Duong went after that. The Dragon Lord of the Lac taught the people agriculture and sericulture; he established the various ranks of officials and the ways of parents and children, husbands and wives. [He did it so well that] sometimes he would go back to the Underwater World and the hundred name clans would still be at peace, unaware themselves of how that was done. When the people had some business [to solve] they would loudly call to their Dragon King: "Father, why aren't you here to save us?" The latter would immediately appear, his sacred communion with the people was something that nobody could understand.

This story is worth examining for several reasons. First, this myth contains much more detail than most other Vietnamese myths. Secondly, the clear explanation of the lineage of Loc Tuc, the first king of the south, is reminiscent of the concise genealogies found in the Bible in Genesis. This may be a Chinese influence, for the Chinese love lineages, real or putative, but one should also note that many of the names are given in the Vietnamese word order: De Minh (King Minh) , Than Nong (God of Agriculture), and De Nghi (King Nghi) rather than Minh De, Nong Than, and Nghi De, which would be the normal Chinese word order. The title of this tale, "The Hong Bang Family," further reinforces this Chinese-influenced effort to trace back as far as possible the lineage of the Vietnamese people. Hong and Bang are two eagle-like mythological birds figuring prominently in the very earliest Vietnamese religious beliefs, beliefs which were totemic. By giving their myth of origin such a title, the Vietnamese are signalling their intent to prove that their history is at least as long as China's.

Thirdly, the very first myth of Vietnam is a political myth; it clearly divides the north, associated with the Chinese, and the south, associated with the Vietnamese. But more than that, it asserts an irreconcilable cultural difference: Loc Tuc, as the King of Kinh Duong, i.e. the south, "had the gift of going underwater," which allowed him to marry the daughter of the Dragon King, traditionally the lord of the Water World. In this way Loc Tuc differed from his northern father and half-brother Nghi. Northerners, especially Chinese, have traditionally been perceived as coming from the inland, the mountains, who were afraid of the sea. Finally, this myth asserts that Sung Lam is the Dragon Lord of the Lac People: thus the name of the ancestral tribe of the Vietnamese is given as the Lac, a tribe thought to be related to the Lolo of modern times.

In the generation of Sung Lam, the Dragon Lord of the Lac, the North was ruled by King Lai, the son of King Nghi. One day, Lai left the kingdom to the care of others and headed south to visit the sights. At one point he left his wife Au Coo the Princess of Au (or maybe, of the Au, name of a tribe) , and her attendants in one of his temporary palaces and went into the woods, forgetting to return. Because he left his realm unattended,

... the southern people suffered depredations from the northern people, they were not allowed to live in peace as they used to, so they called on the Dragon King: "Father, where are you, why do you let the northern people harass and attack us, your people?" The Dragon King suddenly appeared, and what he saw was Au Co with her fantastically beautiful features. He felt glad in his heart and transformed himself into a very handsome young man, accompanied right and left by numerous attendants who sang and beat on their drums as they went. Palaces rise up out of nowhere. Au Co willingly followed the Dragon King, and he hid her at the Dragon Platform Rock.

When King Lai came back from his wanderings, Au Co was no longer there. He sent out parties in every direction but because his uncle the Dragon King had the capability of "changing himself into all kinds of shapes, from devils to demons, dragons and snakes, tigers and elephants, he scared away all the search parties, which dared not venture too far." Then follows the narration of how King Lai's descendants lost their throne, ending the line of Shen Nong in China. The story goes back to the Dragon King and Au Co:

The Dragon King took Au Co for wife and she bore him a bagful [of eggs]. Considering this to be an ill omen, he had the bag thrown away in the field. After six or seven days, however, out of the bag hatched one hundred eggs and out of each egg was a boy; only then were they brought home to be raised. These boys needed no breast-feeding or mouth-feeding, they just naturally grew up into fantastically handsome young men, blessed each one of them with great mind and courage. Everybody respected them, thinking they were an unusual breed auguring well [for the country].

But as the Dragon King liked to stay long in the Underwater World, his wife and children yearned to go north. When they got to the frontier Huang Ti [the Chinese Emperor] heard about it, he got scared and had troops sent out to hold the pass. Unable to proceed further, Au Co and her children came back south and called out to the Dragon King: "Father, where are you, why are you leaving us alone, unprotected so that day and night we are in this terrible plight?" The Dragon King at once appeared and they met at Tuong [Chinese, Xiang]. Au Co said: "I originally came from the north and after living with you, I bore you one hundred sons. You left me and did not raise the children with me, and I became like a widow. All I could do was to pity myself." The Dragon King answered: "I am of the dragon breed, the king of the aquatic breeds; you are an immortal living on land, and though we have children born of the combination of yin and yang elements we are, like fire and water, not meant for each other, we are different breeds. I am afraid our union cannot last, we must now separate. I will take fifty boys with me down to the Underwater World and divide it up for them to rule, let the other fifty follow you on land and you can divide the land up for them to rule. Though we may go up to the mountains or down to the sea, if anything happens we should let each other know. Don't forget." The one hundred children obeyed, said farewell to one another and parted.

Au Co and her fifty sons went up to Phong Chau. The sons established their suzerainties and vassalities while they raised the eldest son to be their king with the dynastic name of Hung Vuong and they called their country Van Lang.

The story concludes by recounting the extent of the Van Lang country, its 15 subdivisions (with their names), the feudal system obtained under the Hung kings, the division of officials' ranks into military and civilian ranks, the names of ranks corresponding to princes and princesses within the royal family, and the establishment of a patriarchal system of royal succession. The myth provides a long listing of the various customs associated with the ancestral Vietnamese, including the custom of tattooing one's body and that of "ploughing with knives and growing [plants? rice?] using fire," clearly a reference to the slash-and-burn method of the present-day highlanders of Vietnam. "Thus," the story ends, "the hundred sons [of Au Co and the Dragon King] are the ancestors of the Hundred Viet [tribes]."

Several observations are in order here. The last sentence of the story shows that the story of Lac Long Quan, the Dragon King of the Lac, and of Au Co is not merely the story of the one tribe or group that eventually became the present-day Vietnamese. Rather, the story purports to tell the ancestral story of all the Viet groups (the Hundred Viet) in the area corresponding to southern China and present-day northern Vietnam. The names given to the 15 subdivisions of Van Lang should be seen also in this light. The direct ancestors of the present-day Vietnamese, however, can claim to be primi inter pares since it is recorded that the capital apparently was established at Phong Chau, in the vicinity of present-day Tam Dao in northern Vietnam, and that the first Hung king was established here. Many of the customs given as identifying the Viets show them to be very much like the modern-day Thai minorities of northern Vietnam with a good number given to fishing and diving, possibly for pearls, hence the custom of body-tattooing. (Ancient Vietnamese pearl-divers used to tattoo themselves with all sorts of phantasmagoric figures in the hope of scaring away sea monsters they feared to encounter in the waters.) This, incidentally, gives a possible interpretation of Van Lang, the name of the country, as "[Country of the] Tattooed People" -- which bears out the earlier name of Xich Quyt "[Country of the] Red Demons."

But the most contemporary note sounded in this Vietnamese myth of origin is its mention of divorce, or at least separation; the first that we have in Vietnamese history. Thus is destroyed the stereotypic view that divorce is almost unknown among Vietnamese.

The Celestial King of Phu Dong The Vietnamese myth of origin is so rich that it established many of the great themes of later Vietnamese history: the North-South dichotomy between the Chinese and the Vietnamese; the acknowledgment by the Viets that they belong to a minor lineage, owing respect to the Chinese but still extremely jealous of their independence; the assertion of an independent line of cultural development (for example, Sung Lam, the Dragon Lord of the Lac, was the culture hero who taught agriculture and sericulture to the Vietnamese and not some Chinese administrator, as recorded in history); the implication that the Vietnamese are a mixed race (born of the marriage of a Southerner, the Dragon King, with a Northerner, Au Co); and the oblique assertion that the South can be of such influence that Au Co, originally a Northerner, after her sojourn in the South was no longer recognized as Chinese when she tried to go north with her children.

But another great theme of Vietnamese history was only hinted at in the Vietnamese myth of origin, the theme of resistance to foreign invasion. This was, however, the main theme of the "Story of Phu Dong Thien Vuong," the Celestial King from Phu Dong. Many of the story's events defy common belief: a miracle birth on a lucky number day (the seventh of the first month), the sudden transformation from what appears to be retardation to superhuman intelligence and strength, and then disappearance into the sky after a smashing victory over foreign invaders.

The story tells of a year in the reign of Hung Vuong VI when the Yin in China attacked Van Lang. The king was anxious to find a general who could withstand them. He sent search parties all over the country.

When they got to Phu Dong village, Tien Du district, Bac Ninh Province, they found a rich man over sixty years old who had a son born in the middle of the day on the seventh of the first [lunar] month. The boy was now three years old but he still could not speak, nor could he sit up. When she heard of the search party the mother said jokingly: "Well, I gave birth to this child and he-knows only how to eat. He does not know how to fight the invaders for the court awards so as to return some of my trouble breast-feeding and mouth-feeding him."

When he heard his mother say so, the boy suddenly said: "Mother, please call in the royal envoys." Flabbergasted, the mother started telling the neighbors about what happened. The latter were overjoyed and immediately went after the royal envoys, inviting them to come at once. The envoys said: "You are a child that barely starts to speak, why do you ask us to come?" The child sat up straight and said: "Please go back to court at once and make your presentation to the king asking that an iron horse eighteen feet tall, a seven-foot long iron sword, an iron whip and an iron helmet be smithed for me. I will ride that horse with my helmet on, the enemy will run in fear, and the king will not have any worry left." The envoys were overjoyed and rushed back to make their presentation to the king. Totally surprised but happy, the king said: "I no longer worry."

... When the envoys came back, the boy's mother was very scared and thought that this time misfortune had overtaken them. She conveyed that thought to her son who merely laughed and said: "All you have to do, Mother, is to give me a whole lot of food and wine. As for the fighting, don't worry, leave it up to me."

Then he grew and grew, and consumed tons of food; the mother was at a loss as to how to feed him. The neighbors also chipped in by killing buffaloes and bringing wine, fruit and cakes galore but the young man did not have his fill. Silk and damask were brought out roll after roll but they barely covered him, people finally had to go and take sedge flowers to tie all the material up so as to cover him.

By the time the Yin troops reached the foot of the Trau Mountain in Vu Ninh, the young man stretched his legs and stood up. He was now over ten feet tall, he turned up his nose and let out more than ten sneezes, unsheathed his sword and yelled: "Here I am, the General from Heaven!" Then he put on his helmet and rode his horse. The horse reared up, let out a long and powerful neighing, then flew out. In a twinkling both master and horse were in front of the king. The man tapped on his sword and went ahead, followed by the king's army. Soon they were close to the enemy camp. The enemy fled in terror, those that were left all kowtowed to the Celestial General and pleaded for their lives as they surrendered. The Yin king himself died at this battle.

When he reached Soc Son in the district of Kim Hoa the Celestial General shed his armor and rode his horse into the sky. That was the ninth day of the fourth month, and there are still traces left of him on the rocks in the mountain. The Hung King remembered his feat and invested him with the title of Celestial King from Phu Dong.

The Beach Boy Not all Vietnamese myths are about war and divorce and politics, however. In fact, many of the most beautiful Vietnamese myths are about love. A favorite among Vietnamese must no doubt be the story of the Beach Boy, a story set in the reign of Hung Vuong III during the third millennium B.C. To him was born a princess by the name of Tien Dung ("Immortal Features").

When she reached eighteen she was very beautiful but she did not care to marry anyone, she only wanted to have fun and wander around the world. The king did not want to contradict her in any way. Each year, around the second or third lunar month, she would have boats rigged up so that she could roam over the seas, forgetting even to come home.

At that time, in the village of Chu Xa near the river estuary there lived a person named Chu Vi Van who had a son called simply the Chu Boy. The father was a kind man and the son a filial person, but their home caught fire and they had nothing left except a loin-cloth that father and son had to take turns wearing when they went out. As he fell ill and was about to die, the father told the son: "I am going to die, you should bury me naked and keep the loincloth for yourself." The son, however, did not have the heart to obey, he used the loincloth to wrap the father's corpse.

After that, he had nothing to wear, and was constantly ravaged by hunger and cold. He would stay on the river bank and whenever he spotted a merchant boat going by, he would stand deep in the water to beg for food, or he would fish to find food for himself.

Little did he expect one day that Tien Dung's boat would come his way all of a sudden, in the midst of gongs and drums and beautiful music and with a huge attendance. The boy was terrified. on the sand bar there was a band of sedge and reed, hardly enough to hide him, but the Beach Boy still had to hide there. While there, he scraped up some sand to make a hole and used the sand to cover himself.

Soon after, Tien Dung's boat anchored right by and she came down to take a stroll on the sand. She then ordered her attendants to curtain off an area amidst the sedge and reed for her to take a bath. She stepped inside, took off her dress and started pouring water on her body. The sand went away with the water, revealing the Beach Boy. Tien Dung was totally taken aback for a while before she realized that he was a boy so she said: "I never had a mind to have a husband. Now I met you here with both of us naked in the same spot: this must be the doing of Heaven. Stand up, then, and wash yourself. I will give you clothing to wear, then let us go down into my boat to celebrate." Everyone in the boat agreed that this was an unprecedented miracle meeting. The Beach Boy demurred: "How dare I?" But Tien Dung brushed away his protests and forced him to become her husband. The Beach Boy again refused, Tien Dung said: "This is an union decreed by Heaven, why do you refuse it?"

This conversation was at once reported to the king by the attendants. The king said: "Tien Dung does not care about her name and chastity, she does not care about her inheriting my wealth, she goes on wandering away from home and lowers herself to take a poor man for husband. How will she have the courage to face me?" When this was reported to her, Tien Dung got frightened and did not dare go home. She stayed on the spot to establish a river market and a small town with her husband to trade with other people. Gradually this became a large market-city.

"Rich merchants from abroad came to trade in great numbers, and they worshipped Tien Dung and her husband as their leaders," the story continues, relating Tien Dung and her husbands eventual conversion to Buddhism, which brought them miraculous powers. The King, Tien Dung's father, seeing them become powerful, thought that Tien Dung was planning a rebellion. He sent troops against her, but Tien Dung only smiled: "Life and death are matters in the hands of Heaven. How dare I fight against my father? I only beg to follow the right path. Let the knives and swords kill as they will." However, night descended as she spoke and the attack by the king's army was delayed till the next day. "In the middle of the night, a great wind arose and created a sand storm, uprooting even the trees, causing total confusion in the king's army. Tien Dung and her followers, together with their fortress, in no time flew up into the sky while the earth where they stood sank down to form a large pond. Later on, the people set up an altar to worship Tien Dung all year round, and they called the pond the 'Overnight Pond.'"

Article written by Nguyen Ngoc Bich for the Asia Society's Vietnam: Essays on History, Culture, and Society, 1985, pp. 61-77.


"Rich merchants from abroad came to trade in great numbers, and they worshipped Tien Dung and her husband as their leaders," the story continues, relating Tien Dung and her husbands eventual conversion to Buddhism, which brought them miraculous powers. The King, Tien Dung's father, seeing them become powerful, thought that Tien Dung was planning a rebellion. He sent troops against her, but Tien Dung only smiled: "Life and death are matters in the hands of Heaven. How dare I fight against my father? I only beg to follow the right path. Let the knives and swords kill as they will." However, night descended as she spoke and the attack by the king's army was delayed till the next day. "In the middle of the night, a great wind arose and created a sand storm, uprooting even the trees, causing total confusion in the king's army. Tien Dung and her followers, together with their fortress, in no time flew up into the sky while the earth where they stood sank down to form a large pond. Later on, the people set up an altar to worship Tien Dung all year round, and they called the pond the 'Overnight Pond.'"

In some respects, this story sounds more like a legend than a myth since it is historically dated (in the reign of Hung Vuong III) and happens in historical times. Actually these historical references are merely the result of Chinese influence in the recording of the myth (Chinese naturally gave dates or pseudohistorical dates to myths to give them more credibility. The historical references contradict each other; Hung Vuong III is traditionally thought to have lived in the third millennium B.C., some 2,000 years before the birth of the historical Buddha, which would make it impossible for Tien Dung to convert to Buddhism. Putting aside the reference to Buddhism, what one is left with is a beautiful myth dealing with the traditional Vietnamese belief in Heaven, whose power must transcend even the power of the King on Earth. Like the story of An Tiem, the story of Tien Dung and the Beach Boy is the story of an unshakable faith in a providential god named Heaven: "Troi sinh voi, Troi sinh co," says a Vietnamese proverb. "Heaven creates the elephants, He creates also the grass" that serves as fodder for the elephants.

The Pearl of Love Like the story of Tien Dung and the Beach Boy, another story, the story of Truong Chi, also depicts the problems of class difference and class consciousness. But if the story of Tien Dung and the Beach Boy ends happily, the story of Truong Chi has a tragic ending.

Truong Chi was a fisherman who was also a gifted flutist. In the evening he would take out his flute and play beautiful melodies on the river, sitting in his boat. The melodies were carried away to the ear of a princess, Mi Nuong, who lived a sequestered life in a palace. Imperceptibly, she found herself falling in love with the flutist, and one day she fell seriously ill when the flutist was no longer heard.

All the doctors in the realm seemed powerless against the sickness that ate away at Mi Nuong's health and took away her color. Her father was at a loss as to what he could do when finally her nurse revealed her secret: she was in love with the man whose beautiful flute melodies used to be heard in the evening and only way to make her well would be to convince him to play for her again.

Since this was no difficult matter, it was soon arranged for the fisherman to come to the palace and play for her. At the sound of the flute Mi Nuong recovered at once, and her curiosity led her to seek the flutist who played so well. But great was her disappointment when she discovered that the man she had been in love with was no more than a poor and ragged fisherman. She laughed in his face and was cured for good, but the encounter left the man so love-stricken that he went home, became ill and died soon after.

Three years after Truong Chi's death, the time came to unearth his bones for cleaning and removal to another spot. But when his grave was opened nothing was found except a precious-looking stone, shaped like a heart, and shining like a pearl. This was such an unusual thing that it was soon brought to the attention of the father of Mi Nuong, who had the stone made into a teacup. When tea was poured into this teacup, the image of a man going in his boat around the cup would appear and his flute could be heard faintly. When she saw this, Mi Nuong regretted her cruelty in laughing at the man and shed one tear of love for him. At that the cup melted and Truong Chi's flute playing was never heard again.

No tinh chua tra cho ai

Khoi tinh mang xuong Tuyen-dai chua tan.

When a love debt has not been returned

Even in the Yellow Springs it cannot be dissolved.

The Areca Nut and Betel Leaves Until not too long ago in the cities of Vietnam, and I am sure to this very day in the countryside, betel leaves and areca nuts have been vital props in the institution of marriage. Thousands of popular folksongs and many more folk sayings mention them as indispensable in various stages of courtship and marriage, needed at the first visit between the two families, at betrothal time, at the actual wedding ceremony. Their use was so common that their usefulness was wrapped in a pithy saying: "Mieng trau la dau cau chuyen," "A betel cud is the very first conversation starter." The betel and areca combination -- forming the so-called "betal cud" for chewing -- long ago became a symbol of marital union. Thus a folk poem started:

Small, small the areca nut, checkered, checkered its skin.

One day you attend a nearby school, the next, another, miles away.

We married when I was thirteen ...

Another poem tells of the regrets two former lovers exchange when both have grown up and gone their different ways. To the man's expression of regret that they could not become husband and wife the woman replies:

A bunch of betel leaves costs only three coppers:

Why didn't you ask for my hand when I was still free?

Now I'm married,

Bird in a cage, fish on a hook.

How can a hooked fish escape?

How can a caged bird fly away?

Betel leaves and areca nuts, however, were not always essential to a Vietnamese union. The Vietnamese myth of origin, for instance, revealed this about wedding customs of the original Vietnamese: "[At that time] betel leaves and areca nuts being unknown, the union between men and women relied on a bag of salt as introductory offer; only afterwards did people [learn to] kill buffaloes so as to have sacrificial offerings, to prepare sticky rice so that the newly wed could eat together in their nuptial room before they came to 'know" each other."

Where, then, did the offering of betel leaves and areca nuts originate? The story is told of two brothers, the older of whom was married to a beautiful girl. They lived very happily together until one day when he had to leave and apparently did not return. Following the custom of the levirat, an ancient custom known in Biblical times and still practiced in some parts of India and Central Asia today, the younger brother became the husband of his dead brother's wife.

Tragedy, of course, struck when the older brother, after a long absence, came back. Though he did nothing wrong -- that is, by the standard of his time and the customs of his society -- the younger brother could not help seeing the awkwardness of the situation. He therefore left home to seek a new life elsewhere. He did not succeed, for he soon died on the road and was transformed into a rock by the roadway. The older brother, who loved his younger one dearly, set out to look for him when the latter did not come home. Midway on his search, he became very tired and sat down on a rock by the roadside. There he died and became a tall areca tree whose fronds wafted in the breeze and kept the rock somewhat shaded. Upon not seeing her husband return, the woman set out to look for him. Again, the search was in vain and, exhausted, she sat down on a rock by the road-side under an areca tree. Here she too died and became a betel vine that wound around the slender trunk of the areca tree. The place became such a pleasant spot that it soon became famous.

One day, Hung Vuong IV happened to come by, and attracted by the site, he sat down on the rock to rest. Suddenly, out of curiosity he tasted a betel leaf with one of the golden areca nuts that shone in the sun. He felt a little bit dizzy -- the combination is slightly narcotic -- but the feeling was gorgeous, especially when a tiny bit of lime from the rock on which he sat was added to it. Inquiring, Hung Vuong learned the beautiful if tragic history of the love triangle that gave birth to the tree and the rock and the vine. He was so inspired by the story that he decreed then and there that henceforth at all weddings in the realm gifts of areca nuts, some lime and betel leaves should be exchanged.

Traditionally, this story was given a Confucian twist making it more acceptable to a society influenced by the Chinese, which had come to reject the institution of the levirat. But this twist makes the story nearly incomprehensible. In the Confucian version, the brothers are twins, indistinguishable except when subjected to some kind of test. The young woman mistakes the twin as her husband -- a very unlikely event, but required to fit the story to the rather puritanical standards of Confucianism, which rejected the levirat practice. Even if one were to accept the Confucian version, one would be hard put to explain why the lime (i.e. the younger brother) is needed to make the union of the woman (represented by the betel leaves) and the older brother (the areca nuts) become a red hot, passionate union. Clearly, the Confucian version does not stand, even if one were to accept the explanation that the younger brother is needed in the story to show that conjugal love can be harmonized with brotherly love.

In recognizing the institution of the levirat as behind the story of the areca nuts and betel leaves, one sees a perfect example of cultural conflict: the imposition of the Chinese (or Confucian) way of life on the Vietnamese who persisted in thinking that their own, including the levirat system, was perfectly valid.

Furthermore, the levirat provides a rationale for other myths of Vietnam. A case in point would be the apparently contradictory acceptance in a polygamous society of the existence of the Kitchen God (Ong Tao or Tao-guan in Vietnamese) who is in actuality a trinity of gods consisting of a Lady Tao and her two husbands. Once, a female deity married a male deity, and one of them served as the kitchen God, watching over the hearth of every Vietnamese home. But the husband was so poor that he decided to travel abroad to seek his fortune and make a living. When he did not return, the wife married another deity, and the two of them prospered. One day, the first husband came back, still as impoverished as ever. The wife took pity on him and gave him some food to eat. When the second husband suddenly came home, the wife hid the first in a stack of hay, fearing a great misunderstanding should she be discovered with him. Unaware of what had happened, the second husband set to his chores, lighting a fire by burning the stack of hay. The first husband never dared come out, and he died as a result. The levirat system provides a legitimacy to the story's events which could have prevented the tragic death of the first husband: the first husband (an older brother?) would not have to be burned because he was afraid to be seen with the woman when the second husband (a younger brother?) came back. But in the eyes of the Confucians, the whole system of the levirat would have to be done away with (i.e. burned) if the Vietnamese were to be "civilized," according to Chinese culture. Hence, the creation of the Kitchen God myth was merely an attempt by the Chinese to eliminate for good a Vietnamese institution, the levirat.

Yet ironically, the Vietnamese themselves perpetuated the story, making it one of the most intimate gods in the Vietnamese pantheon (for there is simply no Vietnamese home without a kitchen and no Vietnamese kitchen without a Kitchen God, who is in charge of keeping track of all that happens in the household so that at the end of every year he may go up to Heaven to report on the happenings of the household under his supervision), precisely for the purpose of never allowing a good Vietnamese way, the levirat, to pass into oblivion.

Son Tinh and Thuy Tinh

Besides such myths as we have recounted above, the Vietnamese also have ones that are similar to many Greek and western myths. The story of Da Trang, who was transformed into a sand-crab to roll sand in-perpetuity without ever achieving his goal, is evocative of the myth of Sisyphus; the many trials and tribulations of Thach Sanh are reminiscent of Hercules' labors; Cuc Hoa's descent into hell is comparable to similar experiences found in western classics (Dante, Orpheus). But Vietnamese myths do not just recount what may be called the universal condition. They also have myths to explain their own situation in a tropical and monsoon land, and the most beautiful such myth no doubt must be the story of Son Tinh and Thuy Tinh.

Son Tinh was the spirit of the Mountain and Thuy Tinh the spirit of the Waters. The king, Hunh Vuong VI, had an extremely beautiful daughter, and he did not wish her to marry just any prince who came her way. He consulted with his court and hit upon the idea of sending out a proclamation far and wide to the effect that he was seeking a suitable party for his daughter. Princes came from far and wide but none was considered to be a good match for the king's beloved princess. Finally, one day there came at the same time two very handsome young noblemen asking for the princess' hand. Upon inquiry and examination, they turned out both to be equally distinguished, talented, and powerful. The king was in a quandary as to how to choose. Finally, he decided to send them both away, saying that whoever turned up the next day first with the proper wedding gifts would be given the princess in marriage.

The next day, Son Tinh, the Mountain spirit, at the break of dawn was already there with all the proper wedding gifts. He was-therefore given the hand of the princess. Barely had the proceedings been completed when Thuy Tinh, the Water spirit, turned up with his gifts. Having promised his daughter to Son Tinh, the king could not go back on his word. Being of a fiery disposition, Thuy Tinh could not accept his defeat. He sought to challenge Son Tinh to a contest to see who was the stronger and therefore more deserving of the princess. But Son Tinh simply ignored him, strong in his conviction that right was on his side. Furious, Thuy Tinh called on the waters of the rivers and brooks to overflow their banks and flood the land. In no time the whole land became a stormy and raging sea that rose day by day and hour by hour, ruining all the crops and ravaging the land.

But Son Tinh was imperturbable in his palace in the mountains; all he needed to do was to get his mountains to rise a little bit higher when the waters threatened to flood them. After several days and weeks of trying to overcome his rival by raising the waters, Thuy Tinh finally had to concede defeat and order the waters to withdraw. This happened at the end of the monsoon but Thuy Tinh was never fully reconciled to the loss of the beautiful princess. Every year he tries to reenact the battle and that was how monsoons came to Vietnam.

Conclusion: Vietnamese Myths Through the Ages Many traditional Vietnamese myths were originally conceived as instruments of protest, as weapons in the struggle against foreign invaders and foreign ideologies, especially the Chinese Confucian ideology. This form of protest is found again and again in later centuries in Vietnamese history: in the 13th and 14th centuries (through the reaffirmation of old Vietnamese myths); in the 18th century with the protest literature represented by Cong Quynh (or Trang Quynh) and Chang Lia; in the 19th century with the creation of new myths, in the 20th century with the creation of new religions incorporating a great deal of myths (such as Hoa Hao and Caodaism in South Vietnam); and even in the present day with the spontaneous creation of a vast folk literature of protest. The current authorities propose their myths to the population, such as the inevitable decline of capitalism and conquest of the world by communism, the necessary rise of proletarian dictatorship, the absolute necessity of a guiding light as represented by the collective wisdom of the Party and illuminated by Marx and Engels, Lenin and Ho Chi Minh. But the people do not always meekly accept such myths. They come up with their counter-myths, their protest literature which, because it is not officially condoned and has no way to get into print, necessarily has to be an oral literature for the most part. In other words, a new age of myths is right now being born in Vietnam because of the people's limited access to the truth.

It is times of ideological conflict like today that foster the birth of myths. Myth creation is a response to searing questions that obsess the mind. And when such questions are the concern of whole populations or whole nations, they lead to the creation of myths and counter-myths -- which of course are also myths.

It is clear, even from the very incomplete record of ancient Vietnamese myths, that at one time the ancestors of the present-day Vietnamese asked some very searching questions regarding the nature of the universe and the human condition, both in its universal dimensions and in the dimensions particular to Vietnam. That some of the answers, in the form of myths, were quite successful is clearly evident in some of the tales we have retold.

Since the language of myth is close to the language of poetry and does not belong to the genre of rational and reasoned-out discourse, it takes a different disposition from the common, run-of-the-mill prosaic mind of 20th century man to understand it fully. But the power of the mythopoetic mind of ancient Vietnam was such that we can still feel its reverberations. An understanding of Vietnamese poetry is very inadequate if one does not understand the body of myths that forms its very foundation. A rounded understanding of Vietnam and its culture must include its myths, as they loom very large in the Vietnamese psyche and to a certain extent predetermine their behavior and perceptions.

The Power and Relevance of Vietnamese Myths - Article written by Nguyen Ngoc Bich for the Asia Society's Vietnam: Essays on History, Culture, and Society, 1985, pp. 61-77.


\10 Health and Medicine

I was sick a great deal of the time in Vietnam. That was more a reflection of how poorly I took care of myself (a combination of hubris and overwork). The diary tapes I kept are filled with sniffling and sneezing - in hindsight I realized that more than half the time I had either a cold or flu. I don't believe you have to get sick if you go to Vietnam, but I do think you have to spend more time and energy than you normally would in maintaining your health.

WHEN TO MAKE USE OF THE VIETNAMESE MEDICAL SYSTEM... Never. Well, almost never... The closest reasonable medical facilities are in Hong Kong or Bangkok. If you have any real concerns about your health, get out of Vietnam.

VIETNAMESE RURAL MEDICINE The Vietnamese are fervent believers in traditional medicine. This runs the gamut from bear gall to some very useful herbs. Although you should avoid the medicinal use of rare animal parts, don't dismiss all of traditional medicine. It is an ancient and highly revered art which Western medicine is only now beginning to understand.

In remoter areas an entire village may share a single needle/syringe (the needle gets awfully blunt).

Vietnamese believe much more in injections than they do in pills. You will see many simple remedies that we usually take in pill form available only as an injectible.

There is no such thing as prescription-only medicine. If it's available at the pharmacy, you can buy it.



You will often see Vietnamese with round red bruises on their foreheads, chests and backs. This is a form of traditional medicine. They burn a piece of alcohol-soaked cotton inside a cup (to drive out the air) and then immediately turn it upside-down over the skin. The skin and flesh is sucked into the cup, creating an angry-looking bruise. I've even seen these cups applied to two-month-old babies.

Another traditional remedy is to scrape the injured area with coins or other metallic objects. If you see children with red marks on their necks or arms, this is probably the reason.

VACCINATIONS Give yourself plenty of time to get all the vaccinations you need before going to Vietnam (some take a month or two). The best place to go is a tropical diseases institute at a nearby hospital. They will discuss which vaccines you need given your travel plans. The following is a sample of information distributed by the CDC and is in no way meant to be a definitive list of vaccinations to take before going to Vietnam.

rabies hepatitis A hepatitis B TBCG (TB) Japanese encephalitis polio typhoid tetanus diphtheria Yellow fever vaccination required if coming from YF area within six days Cholera (get info from dr)

SUGGESTED MEDICAL KIT AIDS: All over Vietnam you will see giant posters depicting skeletal figures and the letters SIDA. This is the Eurpean word for AIDS and the Vietnamese government is taking the disease very seriously. So should you.

ONCE YOU'RE THERE Water. If you're buying it bottled, make sure the cap is sealed. Tap water needs to be boiled for twenty minutes, not just brought to a boil. Do not use ice - most parasites and bacteria can survive being frozen.

Most of the milk in Vietnam (when you can get it) has not been pasteurized. Yoghurt is apparently fine.

If you're traveling with someone, find out his/her blood type. It will be your only clean supply of blood if you get injured.

Sanitary napkins make great bandages (they soak up a lot of fluid).

Do not buy (or take) any med in Vietnam because the "pharmacist" recommends it. Most of them speak very little English and are selling you drugs that have English dosage and directions - in other words, their info is third-hand at best. I've been given vaginal cream for an eye infection and aspirin for a stomach flu...

Rural doctors are somewhat analogous to 14th century barber surgeons, as a friend of mine found out the hard way...

Westerners are extremely suspicious of traditional Eastern medicine. Although I would question the medical benefits of snake blood and rice whiskey, traditional medicine has many herbs and roots that really do make a difference. Depending on your ailment, it may be worth a try.