 1 general info on Indonesia
 2 Indonesian news/facts
 3 more info
 4 Consular info
 5 Wayang puppet shows (Java+Bali)
 6 Bali

\1 general info

World's largest archipelago of more than 17,000 islands stretching 3224 miles along the equator between the Indian and Pacific Oceans. Pop of 210 million, 90% muslim is the world's fourth largest in pop and with the largest muslim pop. It speaks 500 languages.

For sheer size, scale and variety, Indonesia is pretty much unbeatable. The country is so enormous that nobody is really sure quite how big it is; there are between 13,000 and 17,000 islands. It's certainly the largest archipelago in the world, spreading over 5200km between the Asian mainland and Australia, all of it within the tropics and with huge areas of ocean separating the landmasses. Not surprisingly, Indonesia's ethnic, cultural and linguistic diversity is correspondingly great - the best estimate is of 500 languages and dialects spoken by around 200 million people.

The largely volcanic nature of the islands has created tall cloud-swept mountains swathed in the green of rice terraces or rainforest, dropping to blindingly bright beaches and vivid blue seas, the backdrop for Southeast Asia's biggest wilderness areas and wildlife sanctuaries. All of this provides an endless resource for adventurous trekking, surfing, scuba diving, or just lounging by a pool in a five-star resort. You'll find that the Indonesians themselves are one of the best reasons to visit the country - despite recent troubles, people are generally very open and welcoming, whether they're sophisticated city dwellers or remote island villagers who hunt game and maintain traditional beliefs. The ethnic mix is overwhelming: this is the world's largest Muslim country, but with a distinct local flavour, and there are also substantial populations of Christians, Hindus and animists, whose forms of worship, customs and lifestyles have been influencing each other for centuries.

The area which now comprises modern Indonesia was once a multitude of kingdoms, empires and states, many of which controlled vast areas, some into mainland Asia. Strong foreign influences helped define the rich religious and cultural pattern of the islands: located on the shortest sea route between Europe and the Far East, they have long been visited and settled by traders. Merchants from India brought Hinduism along with the goods they traded as early as the third century, Islam was imported from the subcontinent in the fifth century and, by 1511, the Portuguese had established the immensely lucrative trade in spices. Their grip on the region was loosened by the Dutch, who, in 1602, formed the Dutch East India Company which monopolized trade in the region - then known as the Dutch East Indies - until the end of the eighteenth century. The British had a brief tenure in the archipelago, but were supplanted by the Dutch in 1816, who faced gathering opposition to their rule. During World War II, nationalist ideals took hold across the islands, and led to the Declaration of Independence on August 17, 1945, read by Achmed Sukarno. The War for Independence lasted until December 1949, when the Republic of Indonesia was formed, with Sukarno as its first president. His achievements and miscalculations remain to be fully assessed, but his rule was strongly characterized by both: he managed to introduce a semblance of democracy to the country and to unite its extraordinarily diverse peoples, but failed to control the economy - as well as embarking on a fruitless and costly confrontation with Malaysia. He was toppled by Suharto in 1965, whose successful handling of the economy and commitment to pluralism went hand in hand with increasing authoritarianism and rampant corruption and nepotism. The currency crisis that battered Southeast Asia towards the end of 1997 crystallized the growing dissatisfaction with Suharto's regime, and he was swept from power in 1998.

Much of the recent news about Indonesia has emphasized the fragility of the state. As the old order of ex-president Suharto is dismantled and the current leadership struggles to cope with an ailing economy, some sort of fragmentation seems inevitable: East Timor has recently been promised independence (though whether this will materialize is uncertain), while Aceh, in North Sumatra, continues to press for a greater degree of autonomy. These two provinces lie at the geographical extremes of the archipelago, and it's tempting to think that, if successful, their break from Indonesia will have little adverse effect on the rest of the country. More worrying, however, are the religious and racial ructions that threaten to unravel the very fabric of Indonesian society. Recent riots in many parts of the country have pitched Muslims against their Christian neighbours, while deep-rooted anti-Chinese sentiment surfaced in particularly bloody fashion in 1998. More localized ethnic violence has its source in the transmigration policies of the Indonesian government, whose aim was to settle far-flung areas such as Kalimantan with migrants from overpopulated regions including Java and Madura, often without local consultation and with little heed given to traditional land rights. Unsurprisingly, resentment and violence have sometimes boiled over. Whilst the economy remains on the point of collapse, these tensions will continue to reverberate, and further turmoil can be expected.

The dangers of a trip to Indonesia shouldn't be over blown: violence of the sort witnessed on the streets of Jakarta in 1998 remains rare, and has largely been confined to a couple of big cities on Java, although serious ethnic violence flared up in Maluku in early 1999. Keeping an ear to the ground for developments and acting with a degree of common sense and sensitivity should be enough to ensure that your own trip to the country is a safe one.

Travel across the archipelago is pretty unforgettable, in tiny fragile planes, rusty ferries and careering buses - their drivers with one eye on the road, the other on the Van Damme movie in the background. Have plenty of time to cover the large distances; if you only have a couple of weeks, you'll have a better time if you restrict yourself to exploring a small area properly rather than hopping across 3000km to see your top ten sights. If you do have longer, try to plan a trip that doesn't involve too much doubling back, consider an open-jaw intl plane tkt, and try to intersperse lengthy journeys with a few days of relaxation in peaceful surroundings. Also, leave yourself some leeway - if you're in a hurry with a vital plane to catch, something is bound to go wrong.

Having said all this, the places which are hardest to reach are often well worth the effort. Some of the most rewarding experiences come when you least expect them: under the surface of the least inspiring place there's always something interesting going on. An enforced day's malinger between transport in an apparently dull town might end with an invitation to watch an exorcism, or to examine a collection of ancestor skulls over coffee.

Just as you should give yourself more time than you think you'll need, allow yourself more than the rock-bottom budget - even if it means a shorter trip. Indonesia can be very economical, but there's plenty to spend your money on: watching every last rupiah will detract from the enjoyment.

The islands of the Indonesian archipelago stretch almost 5000km (3100mi) from the Asian mainland into the Pacific Ocean. Richly endowed with natural resources and hosting a phenomenal array of distinct cultures, they have been a magnet to Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytising missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travellers and package tourists.

The islands are inhabited by 300 ethnic groups with distinct cultures, speaking 365 languages and dialects. Despite the national motto `unity in diversity', these cultures are under threat from Indonesianisation as the islands are gradually unified under centralised Javanese rule. The multicultural concept of strength in difference has been a hard one to maintain in the face of such geographic and cultural fragmentation, and the Indonesian government has opted for strong, centralised and undemocratic rule.

The consolidation of the Indonesian empire has met with resistance and insurgencies but these have been largely been ignored by the international community. Until the recent currency crisis, the country was stable but mainly because political opposition was repressed and government authority rested squarely on the foundation of military power. Since Suharto's downfall, second guessing the direction Indonesia will take has become every foreign correspondents' favourite pastime. Despite the dreadful economic situation, there is renewed hope that long overdue political and economic reforms may now be implemented.

Warning Riots in Jakarta in May 1998 sparked a mass exodus of expatriates and travellers. Despite the return of relative calm, the political situation remains uncertain and the economic situation dire. If you are considering travelling to Indonesia in the near future, you are advised to contact your embassy and avail yourself of the latest update on the security situation.

Environment The Indonesian archipelago comprises more than 13,000 islands and shares borders with Malaysia and Papua New Guinea. Stretching like a backbone down the western coast of Sumatra is a line of active and extinct volcanoes. These continue through Java, Bali, Nusa Tenggara and then loop through the Banda Islands of Maluku to north-eastern Sulawesi. Under 10% of the total land area is suitable for farming, while two-thirds consists of woodland, forests and mangrove swamp (mostly found in Sumatra, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Irian Jaya).

Indonesia's rich natural environment encourages a diversity of flora & fauna. The archipelago is home to elephants, tigers, leopards and orang-utans. Sea turtles are found in the waters around Bali and the world's largest flower - the Rafflesia - is found in Sumatra. The islands of Irian Jaya, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi and Sumatra have national parks, while other parks protect special areas such as Komodo, home to the Komodo dragon. Rainforests are disappearing at an alarming rate, especially in Kalimantan where the mighty dipeerocarp forests are being logged ferociously for their durable tropical hardwoods.

Draped over the equator, Indonesia tends to have a fairly uniform climate - hot. It's hot and wet during the wet season (October to April) and hot and dry during the dry season (May to September). Temperatures climb to about 31 degrees Celsius in coastal regions, dropping further inland. The best time to visit Indonesia is from April to October.

When to Go Though travel in the wet season is possible in most parts of Indonesia, it can be a deterrent to some activities and travel on mud-clogged roads in less developed areas is difficult. In general, the best time to visit is in the dry season between May and October.

The Christmas holiday period beings a wave of migratory Australians and there's an even bigger tourist wave during the European summer holidays. The main Indonesian holiday periods are the end of Ramadan, when some resorts are packed to overflowing and prices skyrocket.

Facts for the Traveller Visas: 60-day stay without visa Health risks: Dengue fever, giardiasis, hepatitis, Japanese encephalitis, malaria, paratyphoid, rabies, typhoid Currency: Rupiah (rp) Time: There are three time zones: Sumatra, Java and West & Central Kalimantan are seven hours ahead of UTC; Bali, Nusa Tenggara, South & East Kalimantan and Sulawesi are eight hours ahead of UTC; and Irian Jaya and Maluku are nine hours ahead of UTC Electricity: 220V, 50 Hz Weights & Measures: Metric Tourism: 4 million visitors per year

Money & Costs Currency: Rupiah (rp) Exchange rate: US$1 = approx 10,000 rp Relative costs: Things are in flux at the moment, due to the Asian currency crisis and new IMF regulations. Any list of relative costs would be no more than a wild guess. As soon as things settle down, we'll give some estimates. Rest assured: if you have US dollars, they'll go a long way.

Travellers cheques and cash (preferably US dollars) are the way to go in Indonesia. Credit cards are accepted by expensive hotels, restaurants and shops, but not for day-to-day expenses. In major centres, you can always find a bank that will advance cash on Visa or MasterCard. Credit card advances through ATMs are possible, but limited.

Tipping is not a normal practice in Indonesia but is often expected for special service. Someone who carries your bag or guides you around a tourist attraction will expect a tip. Jakarta taxi drivers expect you to round the fare up to the next 500 rp. Hotel porters expect a few hundred rupiah per bag. Many everyday purchases normally require bargaining but in the current economic turmoil you'd do well to look to your conscience before applying this too stringently. Tourism has taken a severe downturn in most parts of the archipelago and, despite price hikes, hotel rooms are liable to be discounted.

Indonesia, Sumatra 36,455,000 (1995). 7 provinces. Data accuracy estimate: B, C. The number of languages listed for Indonesia, Sumatra is 52.

BENGKULU (BENKULAN, BENCOOLEN) 55,000 (1989). Small area around Benkulu city, western end of southern Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

ENGGANO (ENGGANESE) 1,000 (1981 Wurm and Hattori). Enganno Island, southwest of Sumatra and on four smaller nearby islands. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Enggano. Not closely related to other languages. Survey needed.

ENIM 70,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, south of Muaraenim, east and southeast of Lahat. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

GAYO (GAJO) 180,000 (1989). Mountain region of north Sumatra around Takengon, Genteng, and Lokon. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Gayo. Dialects: DOROT, BOBASAN, SERBODJADI, TAMPUR. Not closely related to other languages. Muslim, traditional religion.

KAUR (KA'UR) 50,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

KAYU AGUNG 45,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, around Kayuagung. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

KERINCI (KERINCHI, KERINTJI, KINCHAI) 300,000 (1989). Western mountains around Sungaipenuh and north and west. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Dialects: ULU, MAMAQ, AKIT, TALANG, SAKEI. Distinct from Kerinci-Minangkabau dialect of Minangkabau. Traditional script. Muslim. Survey needed.

KOMERING (KOMERIN, NJO) 700,000 (1989) including 20,000 in Jakarta (1992). Southeastern Sumatra, Martapura, Kangkung, nearly to Kayuagung, and east to the coast. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. 70% lexical similarity with Kalianda, 74% with Sungkai (closest). Called Njo together with Krui. Lowland swamps. Agriculturalists: wet rice. Shafi Sunni Muslim. Work in progress.

KRUI (KROE, KRU'I, WESTERN LAMPUNG, NJO) 20,000 to 30,000 (GEKISUS 1985). Southern, south Benkulu Province around Krui, Sanggi, Kotajawa, and possibly into Lampung Province. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. Related to Komering. Called Njo together with Komering. Vocabulary differences with other Pesisir languages. 84% lexical similarity between Krui and Ranau. Muslim. Survey needed.

KUBU 10,000 (1989). Spread across Jambi, Riau in south Sumatra, eastern swamp region. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Dialects: LALANG, BAJAT, ULU LAKO, TUNGKAL, TUNGKAL ILIR, DAWAS, SUPAT, DJAMBI, RIDAN, NOMADIC KUBU. Forest dwellers. Related to Lubu. Swamp forest. Traditional religion, Muslim, Christian. Survey needed.

LAMPUNG (API, LAMPONG)1,500,000 (1981 Wurm and Hattori). Southern Sumatra, entire province of Lampung. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. The majority can speak some Indonesian, which is used in schools, and increasingly in the city as first language by Lampung people. Outside of the city Lampung is used daily in home and village. Teachers must use Lampung to communicate with children, especially in lower grades. Roman script for modern use, Lampung script, developed from devanagari, is used traditionally. Muslim. Work in progress.

LEMATANG (LEMANTANG) 150,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, around Muaraenim and another pocket southeast of Sarolangun. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

LEMBAK (LINGGAU) 50,000 (1989). Interior south Sumatra around Lubuklinggau and east of Bengkulu; 2 areas. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Dialects: LEMBAK BLITI (BLITI), LEMBAK SINDANG. May be intelligible with other Malay dialects or languages. Muslim. Survey needed.

LINTANG 70,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, between Lahat and Kapahiang. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

LOM (BELOM, MAPOR, MAPORESE) 50 (?). Sumatra, northeast Bangka Island, Belinyu District. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Lom. Possibly extinct. Not closely related to other languages. Survey needed.

LONCONG (LONTJONG, LONCHONG, ORANG LAUT) East coast on both sides of the mouths of the Kampat and Inderagiri rivers, nearby islands, and coasts of Bangka and Belitung islands. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. It may be two languages. Other languages have been called Orang Laut: Lawta of Myanmar and Indonesian Bajau (see Sulawesi). Survey needed.

LUBU 30,000 (1981 Wurm and Hattori). Central region of east Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Lubu people consider the name 'Kerinci' an insult. Related to Kubu. Muslim. Survey needed.

MALAY (MELAYU, MALAYU, MELAJU, BAHASA MELAYU, BAHASA MALAYU, STANDARD MALAY) 10,000,000 in Indonesia (1981 Wurm and Hattori) including 2,000,000 in Riau, 40,000 in Bangka, 170,000 in Belitung; 17,600,000 or more in all countries. Also in Kalimantan, Java, Maluku, Sulawesi, Irian Jaya. Also in Malaysia, Brunei, Singapore, USA, United Arab Emirates, Hong Kong, a few in Thailand. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Dialects: RIAU (RIOUW-LINGGA, JOHOR), JAKARTA, SAMBAS, DELI, MELAYU PASAR (BAZAAR MALAY, PASIR), BORNEO (SINTANG), KOTA-WARINGIN, SUKADANA, MAKAKAU, IRIANESE, MAKASSARESE, MENADONESE, LABU (LEBU, LABU BASAP), RITOK (SIANTAN, PONTIANAK), BALIKPAPAN, SAMPIT, BAKUMPAI, WEST BORNEO COAST MALAY, BELIDE, LENGKAYAP, AJI, DAYA, MULAK, BANGKA, BELITUNG, LARANTUKA (ENDE MALAY), BASA KUPANG (KUPANG), PERANAKAN. Over 80% cognate with Indonesian (J. Echols). See separate entries for Kalimantan: Kutai Malay, Berau Malay, Bukit; Maluku: Ambonese Malay, Bacan Malay, North Moluccan Malay; Nusa Tenggara: Basa Kupang; Sumatra: Enim, Kaur, Kayu Agung, Lematang, Lembak, Jambi Malay, Lintang, Penesak, Rawas, Sindang Kelingi. Some listed as dialects are probably not inherently intelligible with Standard Malay or Indonesian. Kupang Malay and Larantuka Malay in Nusa Tenggara are very similar to each other. Sunni Muslim. Bible 1733-1993. NT 1668-1938. Bible portions 1629-1932.

MALAY, JAMBI 800,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

MENTAWAI (MENTAWEI, MENTAWI) 50,000 (1992 UBS). Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Mentawai. Dialects: SIMALEGI, SAKALAGAN, SILABU, TAIKAKU, SAUMANGANJA, NORTH SIBERUT, SOUTH SIBERUT, SIPURA, PAGAI. Christian, traditional religion. NT 1987, in press (1996). Bible portions 1911-1955.

MINANGKABAU (MINANG, PADANG) 6,500,000 including 500,000 in Jakarta; 3.3% of the population (1981 Moussay). West central Sumatra around Padang, and throughout the Indonesian archipelago. Nearly half live outside of central Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Para-Malay. Dialects: AGAM, PAJOKUMBUH, TANAH, SI JUNJUNG, BATU SANGKAR-PARIANGAN, SINGKARAK, ORANG MAMAK, ULU, KERINCI-MINANGKABAU. Not intelligible with Indonesian. There is a Minang newspaper and a radio station in Jakarta. There is instruction in Minang in 1st and 2nd grade, although texts are in Indonesian. There is a literature. Muko-Muko and Pekal may be intelligible with Minang. Typology: SVO. Sunni Muslim. NT in press (1995). Bible portions 1980-1990.

MUKO-MUKO (MOKOMOKO) 30,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, west coast around Mukomuko. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Para-Malay. Related to Minangkabau with strong influences from Rejang. Muslim. Survey needed.

MUSI 150,000 (1989). Interior south Sumatra, both sides of the Musi River northwest of Sekayu and to the Palembang language. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. May be intelligible with other Malay varieties. Muslim. Survey needed.

NIAS (BATU) 480,000 (1989). Nias and Batu Islands off the west coast of Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Northern. Dialects: NIAS, BATU. May be intelligible with Sikule. Christian. Bible 1911, in press (1995). NT 1892. Bible portions 1874-1937. Work in progress.

OGAN 300,000 (1989). South Sumatra around Baturaja, Pagerdewa, and north and west of Kayuagung. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. May be intelligible with Pasemah, Serawai, Palembang, or other Malay varieties. Muslim. Survey needed.

PALEMBANG 500,000 (1989). Southeast Sumatra, Palembang area. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. May be intelligible with other Malay varieties. Swamp. Coast. Muslim. Survey needed.

PASEMAH (BESEMAH) 400,000 (1989). Central Bukit Barisan highlands. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. May be intelligible with Serawai or other Malay varieties. Mountain slope. Muslim. Survey needed.

PEKAL 30,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, west coast from north of Ipuh to Tembesi River, to near Argamakmur in the south. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Para-Malay. Related to Minangkabau with strong Rejang influences. Muslim. Survey needed.

PENESAK (PENASAK) 20,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, around Prabumulih. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

PESISIR, SOUTHERN 400,000 (1976 D. Walker). South Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. Dialects: KOTA

AGUNG (SW LAMPUNG), WAY LIMA, KALIANDA (SE LAMPUNG), TELUKBETUNG, TALANG PADANG. 79% lexical similarity between Kota Agung and Kalianda, 70% between Kalianda and Komering, 78% between Kota Agung and Pubian, 78% between Kota Agung and Krui, 78% between Way Lima and Kalianda, 72% between Kalianda and Menggala (Abung). Muslim. Survey needed.

PUBIAN 400,000 (1976 D. Walker). South Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. 76% to 81% lexical similarity with other Pesisir languages. Survey needed.

RANAU 60,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, south of Muaradua, near headwaters of Kanan River. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. 84% lexical similarity with Krui; may not be functionally intelligible with Krui or Malay varieties. Distinct from Ranau dialect of Central Dusun in Sabah, Malaysia. Muslim. Survey needed.

RAWAS 150,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, around Ambacang and along Musi River. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. May be intelligible with other Malay varieties. Muslim. Survey needed.

REJANG (REDJANG, REJANG-LEBONG, JANG, DJANG, DJANG BELE TEBO) 1,000,000 (1981 Wurm and Hattori). Southwest highlands, north Bengkulu Province, around Argamakmur, Muaraaman, Curuo, and Kapahiang. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Para-Malay. Dialect: LEBONG (DJANG

LEBONG). Subgroups: Jang Lebong, Jang Musai, Jang Lai, Jang Bekulau, Abeus. 85% live in remote rural areas. Very different from Serawai. Traditional script. 45% literate. Different from Rejang-Baram group of languages on Borneo. Muslim. Survey needed.

SEKAYU 400,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Unclassified. Muslim. Survey needed.

SEMANG, LOWLAND (ORANG BENUA, SAKAI) 10,000 (1989). Bintan Island, in the Riau Islands southeast of Singapore. Austro-Asiatic, Mon-Khmer, Aslian, North Aslian, Western. Dialect: ORANG BENUA (NEWBOLD'S SEMANG). There seem to be 2 or 3 groups in different locations which share this name, and one is Malayic. Muslim. Survey needed.

SEMENDO 105,000 (1989). Interior south Sumatra; two areas: west of Baturaja and south of Pajarbulan. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. It may be intelligible with other Malay varieties. Muslim. Survey needed.

SERAWAI (SERAWAJ, SERAWI) 150,000 (1989). South Bengkulu coast. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. The two dialects may not be very different. Related to Pasemah. Muslim, traditional religion, Christian. NT 1995. Bible portions 1990.

SIKULE (SICHULE, WALI BANUAH, SIKHULE) 20,000. Central Simeulue Island. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Northern. Dialects: LEKON, TAPAH. Closely related to Nias. Survey needed.

SIMEULUE (SIMALUR, SIMULUL, SIMEULO, LONG BANO) 100,000 (1981 Wurm and Hattori). West and east ends of Simeulue Island, Babi and Banjak islands. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Sumatra, Northern. Related to Sikule and Nias. Muslim. Survey needed.

SINDANG KELINGI (KELINGI) 50,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra, around Muaraklingi, south, east, and north. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Malayic, Malayan, Local Malay. Muslim. Survey needed.

SUKU BATIN 70,000 (1989). Southern Sumatra. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Unclassified. Muslim. Survey needed.

SUNGKAI South Sumatra, northeast of Krui, west of Abung. Austronesian, Malayo-Polynesian, Western Malayo-Polynesian, Sundic, Lampungic, Pesisir. 76% lexical similarity with Pubian (closest), 74% with Komering. Survey needed.



\2 Indonesian news/facts

Since the current edition of the book was published there have been rampant forest fires, the South-East Asian currency crash, riots all over the country and looting of Chinese shops, an explosion in unemployment numbers, a change of leader, galloping inflation and a plummeting rupiah. The weak currency means lower prices for travellers, but tourists have been staying away in droves, scared off by the political situation.

The economic crisis and ensuing political upheaval resulted in isolated disturbances across the country leading up to the elections in June 1999. The fulfilment of democratic aspirations may mean that political strife has already peaked in Indonesia but if it is does occur it is likely to happen in Java, the most populous island and political centre of Indonesia.

Following East Timor's vote for independence in September 1999 and the ensuing chaos that followed as militia patriotic to Jakarta went on a bloody rampage, the Australian government warned that the security situation in East Timor was extremely dangerous and advised all its remaining citizens to leave the province. Its consular staff was also withdrawn.

Although there are no formal restrictions on travel in other parts of Indonesia, and traditional tourist spots such as Bali remain relatively calm and unaffected by the troubles to the east, travellers as well as resident Australians have been advised to keep themselves informed of developments that might affect their safety and to maintain a high level of awareness regarding personal security.

Both the Australian government and the US State Department advised travellers to steer clear of civil disturbances, political rallies or demonstrations. Indonesias have been very critical of westerners, particularly Australians. Humanitarina organisations have called for trade sanctions against all Indonesian products and businesses and Australian union groups proposed boycotts of all flights into and out of Bali by Australian aircraft. Indonesian Nationalists see Australian and UN intervention in East Timor as meddling in Indonesian internal affairs and travellers are advised to watch the situation closely as observers have warned that the modd could quickly turn violent.

For the latest government advice to travellers, contact the US Department of State, British Foreign & Commonwealth Office and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade.

Communal rather than political riots have been more common recently. Authoritarian rule and economic hope kept Indonesia unified during the Soeharto years, but old enmities are resurfacing. Christian attacks on Muslim communities in Ambon and West Kalimantan means those areas are best scrubbed from travel itineraries at present, and even ancient tribal wars have been revived, such as happened in West Sumba.

Facts about the Country

ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT In late 1997, Indonesia's forest fires were among the worst environmental crises the world has seen. They were caused by a combination of drought, late monsoon (thought to be brought on by the El Nio), fires lit to clear forest (almost one million hectares were torched in 1997) and perpetually smouldering peat seams in East Kalimantan.

Pollution from the widespread fires was devastating: airports closed, flights were cancelled, tourists went elsewhere; crops failed from lack of sunlight; respiratory ailments skyrocketed. There is no way to accurately predict long-term human health and environmental outcomes, but the fires are not a new phenomenon: they occurred in 1994 and 1991 and the 'Great Fire of Kalimantan' in 1983 destroyed 35,000 sq km of rainforest and was as big, if not bigger, than the 1997 fires. The fires were extinguished with the arrival of the monsoon in 1998.

GOVERNMENT & POLITICS In August 1997, the run on the currencies of Thailand and Malaysia spilled over into Indonesia. The central bank was unable to support the rupiah and it plummeted.

The IMF stepped in, pledging financial backing in return for economic reforms, including abolishing government subsidies on food and fuel, deregulating industry and abandoning grandiose high-tech, government-sponsored industries, many controlled by the huge business interests of the Soeharto family.

Rising prices resulted in sporadic riots, mostly in Java and southern Sulawesi, as the people already hard hit by the krisis moneter (monetary crisis) began looting shops owned by the minority ethnic Chinese, who form a significant business class. The economic miracle of high growth powered by massive foreign investment was over, and the Chinese became the scapegoats for this sudden loss of faith in the economy.

The markets saw chaos and savaged the rupiah, which bottomed at nearly 16,000 to the US$1 in January 1998, down from 2500 six months earlier. Foreign debt skyrocketed, inflation reached 80%, the banking system was in turmoil and many companies with overseas loans faced bankruptcy.

The IMF agenda seemed destined to bring further upheaval but when the government reviewed its pledge to cut subsidies, the IMF threatened to withdraw its financial package. At the same time, President Soeharto was up for re-election. The result was a foregone conclusion but, as never before, critics from the Muslim parties, student groups and others demanded that he step down and that Indonesia move towards a more open political system, free of corruption and nepotism.

Soeharto's re-election seemed to at least promise political certainty, and the government moved towards fulfilling IMF demands. The rupiah strengthened but so did demands for political reform. Student demonstrations across the country were peaceful and confined to university campuses, but in late April 1998 violence spilled over into the streets in Medan, and later Yogyakarta and Surakarta. On 4 May, the government announced fuel and electricity rises, as demanded by the IMF, adding to the hardship and furthering unrest.

Throughout the turmoil the army repeated its support for the government. Tanks appeared on the streets of Jakarta to confirm the army's intentions but student demonstrations demanding Soeharto's resignation would not go away. Then on 12 May 1998, soldiers swapped rubber bullets for live ammunition and shot dead four students at Trisakti University in Jakarta.

Jakarta erupted as rioters from outside the campuses went on the rampage. Ordinary people, the urban poor, joined in the looting as law and order collapsed and anarchy ruled. In three days of rioting and looting, over 6000 buildings in Jakarta were damaged or destroyed, and an estimated 1200 people died, mostly those trapped in burning shopping centres. Hardest hit were the Chinese, whose businesses were looted and destroyed, and shocking tales of rape and murder emerged after the riots.

The riots subsided but anti-Soeharto demonstrations increased while the army threatened to shoot on sight. Still Soeharto clung to the presidency, but after some of his own ministers called for his resignation, Soeharto finally stepped down on 21 May, ending 32 years of rule.

Vice-president BJ Habibie was sworn in as president and quickly set about releasing political prisoners and promising elections. However, as a long-standing minister and close friend of Soeharto, his credentials as a reformer were always going to be questioned.

After the euphoria of Soeharto's demise, the economy was still in tatters and the rupiah plumbed new lows, but Indonesia enthusiastically embraced a new era of political openness. The government talked about democracy, political reform and eliminating corruption but at the same time stalled on announcing an election date and reaffirmed the role of the army in Indonesian politics.

The army's reputation was severely tarnished. Not only had it started the riots by shooting students, then failed to contain the rioting, the newly vocal press also exposed army killings in the Sumatran province of Aceh and the abduction and murder of opposition activists.

As IMF money flowed into Indonesia, the currency strengthened, but widespread poverty resulted in continuing food riots. People sold their meagre possessions to buy food, while others simply took it. In uncertain times, old grudges resurfaced. The Chinese continued to be the main scapegoats, while in East Java, Muslim factionalism resulted in the bizarre serial killings of over 200 black magicians and Muslim clerics.

Student protests came to a head again in November 1998, when thousands rallied as the Indonesian parliament met to discuss terms for the new election. Student demands for the resignation of Habibie, immediate elections and the abolition of military appointees to parliament were ignored.

Tension on the streets of Jakarta was fuelled by thousands of pro-government youth militia employed by the authorities. Three days of skirmishes peaked on 13 November when a student march on parliament was met by military force and gunfire. Clashes left 12 dead and hundreds injured. Jakarta again was in flames, as shopping centres and Chinese businesses were looted and burnt.

Before the smoke had settled, a local dispute involving Christians from Maluku resulted in Muslims rampaging through the Ketapang district of Jakarta, burning churches. Christians throughout Indonesia were outraged, and in Kupang on the island of Timor, Christians attacked mosques and the minority Muslim community.

Communalism is an ever-present danger that threatens to Balkanise Indonesia. After the government set the election date for 7 June 1999, relative political peace returned in early 1999, but communal violence flared in Christian areas where many Muslims have been resettled from overcrowded Java.

On the island of Ambon, in Maluku province, a dispute between a Muslim migrant and a local Christian minibus driver on 19 January 1999 sparked weeks of clashes between the two communities. Scores were killed in bloody rioting and thousands of Muslims fled the island, which was closed to travel. Though order has been restored, the province remains tense.

In March 1999, in West Kalimantan's Sambas Regency, violence between Christian Dayaks and Muslim migrants from the island of Madura resulted in over 150 deaths. Separatist guerrilla activity in the staunchly Muslim province of Aceh has also been reported, the independence movement in Irian Jaya is gaining strength and tensions in East Timor are reaching new heights.

Indonesia is finally moving towards resolving the East Timor issue. After 23 years of Indonesian occupation, the new government offered autonomy within the republic to the former Portuguese territory  Independence was ruled out, but President Habibie did a sudden about face in January 1999, and Indonesia is now proposing a `direct' ballot on autonomy and independence. However, army crackdowns and rising tension between pro-Indonesian and pro-independence groups has seen renewed violence in East Timor.

Megawati Soekarnoputri, emerged as a frontrunner to become President after Indonesia's first open elections in more than 40 years. However political upheaval may still occur before a new president is finally confirmed in November 1999.

Facts for the Visitor VISAS & PERMITS For onward travel to Australia, almost all nationalities require a visa. Get one before you leave home or in Indonesia at the Australian Embassy (Tel 5227111), Jl Rasuna Said, Kav 15-16, Jakarta. The consulate (Tel 235092) at Jl Mochammad Yamin 4, Renon, Denpasar in Bali also handles visas. There is also a consular representative in Kupang, but visas have to be referred to Jakarta.

Try this link to work out visa requirements for any nationality in the world: http://www2.travel.com.au/cgi-bin/clcgi?E=bevisreq

MONEY Several travellers wrote to say that they had difficulties changing foreign currencies other than US dollars outside the main cities. US dollars have always been the preferred foreign currency in Indonesia and they are now more in demand than ever. At this stage it is still best to take travellers cheques as a safeguard against theft or loss; take well-known and reputable brands, but also carry some cash for emergencies. Exchange rates for cash in Bali are higher than for travellers cheques. You'll get a much better rate for US$100 notes than for smaller amounts of cash.

Costs Inflation in 1998 reached 80% but has since fallen and the Indonesian government expects it to settle at around 20% in 1999. Price rises are not uniform. Imported goods or those with a large import component have risen the most, up to 400%, while many locally manufactured goods and services have risen only marginally.

Accompanying the fuel rises in May 1998, the government announced increases in intercity bus fares of around 50% in Java and Bali, less in other regions. Train fares are up 100% and sea transport 50% or more. Taxis in Jakarta have risen to 2500 rp flagfall and 1000 rp/km. Expect similar rises in other cities (where the meter is used, that is). Airfares have risen the most (300%), because of the cost of imported components and leased aircraft; airlines are pressing the government for another increase. Air travel is now vastly more expensive than any other form of transport in Indonesia, but still quite cheap by world standards.

Rupiah prices for budget accommodation are up but the drop in tourism has kept a lid on rises. Price rises may be as high as 50%, but in some resorts where tourism has slumped, prices have hardly risen at all. Many mid-range and most top-end hotels have always quoted prices in US dollars, but US dollar prices are now meaningless. Most mid-range hotels are now quoting in rupiah but if you are shown US dollars rates, ask for the rupiah price and/or a discount. Prices are higher in Bali, where tourist numbers are still up, and upper range hotels are still quoting US dollar rates though discounts should be available for the asking. Outside Bali, some incredible bargains are on offer for mid-range and top end hotels.

For those with hard currency, Indonesia is exceptionally cheap at the moment. Apart from much lower travel costs, the country is a shopper's paradise.

Currency The rupiah seems to be settling in at about 8000 to 10,000 rp to the US dollar, but check out the current rate on this currency converter link: http://www.oanda.com

Banks The Indonesian banking sector is on its knees and dozens of private banks have closed. The government is merging and taking over many others. Some major private banks are still operating and you won't experience problems in the big cities but in remote areas foreign exchange can be more difficult. The government-owned Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI) has branches right throughout the country and handles foreign exchange. Bank Rakyat Indonesia is also government owned and widely represented but many branches do not offer forex. In remote areas, change enough money to tide you over until the next main city.

ATMs Many Indonesian banks now have ATMs linked to international banking networks. Cash advances on Visa and MasterCard can also be made through many ATMs which display the relevant symbols. Cards and networks accepted by ATMs among Indonesia's main banks include:

Bank Bali  MasterCard, Cirrus, Alto Bank Central Asia (BCA)  Visa, Plus Bank Duta  MasterCard, Visa Bank Internasional Indonesia (BII)  MasterCard, Visa, Cirrus, Plus, Alto Bank Negara Indonesia (BNI)  MasterCard, Cirrus Lippobank  MasterCard, Cirrus, Alto

Indonesian ATMs experience a lot of downtime. Except in major cities with many ATMs, don't rely on them. Most large towns have banks with ATMs these days, particularly in Bali and Java, but elsewhere ATMs are limited mostly to the provincial capitals and they do not always accept foreign cards.

HEALTH Dengue fever, a viral disease transmitted by mosquitoes, occurs throughout Indonesia and is normally of only minor risk to travellers but a major outbreak occurred in 1998, when over 500 people died of the more serious dengue haemorrhagic fever (DHF). Symptoms of dengue fever include a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and muscle pains, nausea and vomiting. A rash of small red spots appears three to four days after the onset of fever. Infection can be diagnosed by a blood test. Aspirin should be avoided, as it increases the risk of haemorrhaging. Severe complications are rare in travellers but include DHF, which can be fatal without prompt medical treatment. There is no vaccine against dengue. The best prevention is to avoid mosquito bites at all times.

One reader has written in warning of how easy it is to get eye infections (conjunctivitis) from mandi water on Pulau We in Sumatra. Another readers's letter informed us that seven people have drowned at the small waterfall or rapid just below the bridge crossing Bohorok River in Bukit Lawang, on the way to Wisma Leuser Sibayak. If you raft there be extremely careful.

POST & COMMUNICATIONS Email & Internet Access Post offices in main cities throughout the country now have a Warposnet, which is a privately contracted Internet service, usually open to 8 pm. Rates are around 10,000 rp hour. A few smaller cities have a Warposnet, but they may be open office hours only.

Internet cafes are also popular in the main cities and tourist areas but rates are higher. Indonesian servers are very slow as a rule. It can sometimes take forever to log onto popular Web sites and email services such as Hotmail.

INTERNET RESOURCES For further up to date information on Indonesia, try the following hot links:

A super links site with thousands of Indonesian URLs: http://www.expat.or.id/

Contains excellent daily news articles from the English-language Jakarta Post: http://www.tempo.co.id/

The Indonesian national newswire Antara: http:www.antara.co.id/

A tourist site with good info and pictures: http://www.emp.pdx.edu/htliono/travel.html

Getting There & Away

AIR Departure Tax International departure tax from Jakarta and Bali is now 50,000 rp.

SEA To/From Malaysia The ferry from Lumut in west Malaysia to Medan's port of Belawan in Sumatra has ceased operation. The ferry routes between Penang and Belawan, and Melaka and Dumai, are still operating.

To/From the Philippines Pelni has a scheduled ferry service between Bitung (near Manado) and Davao in the Philippines but the latest report is that it has stopped operation. It may start up again but don't count on it.

To/From Papua New Guinea Air Nuigini no longer flies between Vanimo and Jayapura. The only way between Irian Jaya and PNG is now by boat. The MV Naremo Express travels between Vanimo, in PNG, and the Pelni port in Jayapura, and back again, each Monday and/or Wednesday (depending on demand). The trip takes about two hours, and costs 60 kina, plus 30 kina departure tax, from PNG; and about 125,000 rp, plus 20,000 rp departure tax, from Jayapura. The alternative is to charter a boat (holding six) for about 500,000 rp one-way from Jayapura.

Getting Around

AIR Air tickets have risen 300%. The domestic carriers have incurred huge losses and one major private airline, Sempati, has folded. The two-government owned airlines, Garuda and Merpati, are maintaining major routes in the national interest, but services have been drastically cut and many of the less profitable routes to smaller cities are no longer running. The main domestic carrier, Merpati, has always had a reputation for cancelling flights at the last minute on its less profitable runs. Airfares are now beyond many of the Indonesian middle class, seats are hard to fill and last-minute cancellations are more common.

Air links to the main cities of Nusa Tenggara, Sulawesi, Kalimantan, Maluku and Irian Jaya are still operating, but for travel within these regions, Pelni passenger boats are often more reliable. Given the currency devaluation, comfortable 1st or 2nd class travel on Pelni boats is now very affordable. Domestic airport tax is no longer included in the ticket price and must be paid for at the airport (5500 to 11,000 rp depending on the airport).

BUS Theft in general is on the rise but theft on buses is much more common, mostly in Java but also Sumatra and Bali. We get regular letters from travellers who have lost passports and travellers cheques from their bags. Thieves board the buses and take the seat behind you, waiting for you to fall asleep or put your day pack on the floor, when they will slash it and be gone before you know it. Keep an eye on your gear and always wear a money belt when travelling. The chances of theft are reduced but not eliminated on deluxe buses.

Java

GETTING AROUND Train The train system on Java is steadily being upgraded. New luxury services have been added and some ekonomi trains are now limited express and seats can be booked. Stations in the big cities now have separate, computerised booking offices for the better, air-con trains, which are quicker and more comfortable than the buses. Book at least a day in advance for tvl on weekends and holidays.

In larger cities, ekonomi trains may now operate from other stations, not the central station. In Yogyakarta, economy trains depart from and arrive at Lempuyangan station, 1km east of the main Tugu station.

JAKARTA A taxi from the Soekarno-Hatta International Airport to the city centre now costs around 40,000 rp, plus about another 10,000 rp in toll road and airport charges. Avoid unlicensed taxis. Damri airport buses (4000 rp) run every 30 minutes from around 3 am to 6.30 pm between the airport and Gambir station. Other airport buses also go to Blok M, Kemayoran, Rawamangun and Bogor.

Crime is on the rise in Jakarta, including violent crime, which is almost unheard of in the rest of Indonesia. Robberies of foreigners at knife point by Jakarta taxi drivers have been reported. Those alone and drunk in the wee hours catching taxis from Jakarta nightspots are most at risk. Such incidents are very rare, however, and you are better off in a taxi than walking the streets alone at night. Stick to more reliable taxi companies, such as Bluebird, and avoid private, unregistered taxis.

Merpati now has an office (Tel 350 1433) at Gambir station, open 24 hours. Garuda's office (Tel 2311801) is now in the Garuda Bldg, Jl Merdeka Selatan 13.

The Telkom office, opposite the tourist information centre in the Jakarta Theatre building, has closed.

For ekonomi trains to Bogor, board them at Gondangdia station, only a short stroll from Jl Jaksa. The better Pakuan bisnis trains leave from Gambir station.

KRAKATAU Given the lack of travellers to Carita, it is difficult to find others to share the cost of chartering a boat to the island volcano. Chartering a speed boat, the best and safest option, costs around 1 million rp. Boat charter is cheaper from the Sumatran port of Kalianda. Because of volcanic activity, it is not possible to climb the volcano.

PANGANDARAN The trails in the national park are now closed to protect wildlife.

Bali

KUTA Moneychangers in Kuta offer good rates but short-changing is chronic. Those rates posted outside may look fantastic until you are told a 5%, 10% or even more commission applies, after you sign your travellers cheque. Calculators are also rigged to automatically deduct `commission'. Always determine the exact exchange rate beforehand and always count your rupiah. If you are given a huge pile of small notes, expect some to be missing. Changing money in $100 lots makes mental arithmetic easier.

UBUD LP has received a glowing report about the Ubud Sam Health Resort, which offers massages and volcanic ash mud baths for $US20.

Nusa Tenggara

LOMBOK The largest freshwater spring in Lombok is Jobja, and it is now reportedly off limits to tourists and locals. You are not permitted to view it or to take photographs.

Please respect the living coral on the Gili Islands, which is coming under pressure from increased tourist numbers.

WEST TIMOR The Kupang area code has changed to Tel 0380.

Kalimantan The dates of the Erau Festival seem to change frequently, so before arriving be sure to get correct information from the East Kalimantan Regional Tourism Service: Jalan Harmonika No 1, Samarinda Tel 0541- 41669. Many travellers who go especially for the festival have come away disappointed.

Sulawesi The Toloka Foundation in the Togian Islands needs urgent help to combat a population explosion of Crown of Thorns Starfish. The starfish are devastating coral reefs around the islands, and visitors to the islands can go on a 'Bintang Tour', to manually pull starfish off the reefs and keep the population in check. You can contact Mandi & Pete Peehan in the UK on Tel 0-1666 577096, or send questions or comments to: TogLovers@aol.com

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THE LAND The geography of Indonesia is quite magnificent, supported by tropical climate and weather. With an archipelago form, Indonesia maintains Territorial Waters and Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ). The relief of Indonesia is filled with volcanoes , rivers and lakes.

As one of the world's most remarkable geographical boundaries in its distribution of animals, Indonesia has a lot of variety of different species of animals . Komodo reptile (Varanus Komodoensis) has been designated as Indonesia National animal, the red freshwater Siluk/Arwana (Scleropage formosus) as the Fascinating animal and the flying Elang Jawa (Javan Hawk Eagle, Spizaetus bartelsi) as the Rare (endangered) species. November 5th has been designated as the National Flora and Fauna Day.

Indonesia is also rich in tropical plants including the ever famous Rafflesia Arnoldi, the largest flower in the world, and Amorphophallus Tatinum, the largest inflorescence of its kind.

THE PEOPLE The country consists of 27 provinces with about 500 tribes and correspondingly, it has about 500 languages and dialects spoken in the archipelago. The population in Indonesia has now reach the fifth most populated country in the world after China, India, Japan and ----- The people of Indonesia are a mix between the native people and the newcomers that came during the Neolitic Period (3000-2000 BC) from the Asian mainland to the south through a large-scale migration. The citizenship of Indonesian is governed by the Nationality Act to distinguish the qualification of a person of being an Indonesian since the beginning of independence on August 17, 1945

To know more about Indonesia and its culture, visit General Information About Indonesia. To find an information of some cities and everyday life in Indonesian, go to Indonesia in brief.

GEOGRAPHY Indonesia is the largest archipelago in the world. It consists of five major islands and about 30 smaller groups. The new figure for the total number of islands is more than 17,000 according to the Indonesian Naval Hydro-Oceanographic office. This figure is increased from the official figure so far known, that is13, 667. The archipelago is on a crossroad between two oceans, the Pacific and the Indian, and bridges two continents, Asia and Australia. This strategic position has always influenced the cultural, social, political, and economic life of the country.

The territory of the Republic of Indonesia stretches from 608' north latitude to 1115' south latitude, and from 9445' to 14105' east longitude. The Indonesian sea area is four times greater than its land area, which is about 1.9 million sq km. The sea are is about 7.9 million sq km (including an exclusive economic zone) and consitutes about 81 % of the total area of the country.

The five main islands are : Sumatra, which is about 473,606 sq km in size; the most fertile and densely populated islands, Java/Madura, 132,107 sq km; Kalimantan, which comprises two-thirds of the islands of Borneo and measures 539,460 sq km; Sulawesi, 189,216 sq km; and Irian Jaya, 421,981 sq km, which is part of the world's second largest island, New Guinea. Indonesia's other islands are smaller in size.

The archipelago is divided into three groups. The islands of Java, Sumatra, and Kalimantan, and the small islands in between, lie on the Sunda Shelf which begin on the coasts of Malaysia and Indo China, where the sea depth does not exceed 700 feet. Irian Jaya which is part of the islands of New Guinea, and the Aru Islands lie on the Sahul Shelf, which stretches northwards from the Australian coast. Here the sea depth is similar to that of the Sunda Shelf.

Located between these two shelves is the island group of Nusa Tenggara, Maluku, and Sulawesi, where the sea depth reaches 15,000 feet. Coastal plains have been developed around the islands of Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan and Irian Jaya.

The land area is generally covered by thick tropical rain forest, where fertile soils are continuously replenished by volcanic eruptions like those on the island of Java.

CLIMATE AND WEATHER The climate and weather of Indonesia is characterized by two tropical seasons, which vary with the equatorial air circulation (The Walker Circulation) and the meridian air circulation (The Hardley Circulation). The displacement of the latter follows the north-south movement of the sun and its relative position form the earth, in particular from the continents of Asia and Australia, at certain periods of the year. These factors contribute to the displacement and instensity of the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) which is an equatorial trough of low pressure that produces rain. Thus, the west and east monsoons, or the rainy and dry seasons, are a prevalent feature of the tropical climate.

The Main Seasons

The climate changes every six months. The dry season (June to September) is influenced by the Australian continental air masses; while the rainy season (December to March) is the result of the Asian and Pacific Ocean air masses. The air contains vapor which precipitates and produces rain in the country. Tropical areas have rains almost the whole year through. However, the climate of Central Maluku is an exception. The rainy season is from June to September and the dry season from December to March. The transitional periods between the two seasons are April to May and October to November.

Temperature and Humidity

Due to the large number of islands and mountains in the country, average temperatures may be classified as follows: coastal plains : 28C inland and mountain areas : 26C higher mountain areas: 23C, varying with the altitude.

Being in a tropical zone, Indonesia has an average relative humidity between 70% and 90%, with a minimum of 73% and a maximum of 87%.

VOLCANOES The country is predominantly mountainous with some 400 volcanoes, of which 100 are active. Mountains higher than 9,000 feet are found on the islands of Sumatra (Mt. Leuser and Mt. Kerinci), Java (Mt. Gede, Mt. Tangkubanperahu, Mt. Ciremai, Mt. Kawi, Mt. Kelud, Mt. Semeru and Mt. Raung), Sulawesi (Mt. Lompobatang and Mt. Rantekombala), Bali (Mt. Batur and Mt. Agung), Lombok (Mt. Rinjani) and Sumbawa (Mt. Tambora). The highest mountain is the perpetually snow-capped Mandala Top (15,300 feet) in the Jaya Wijaya mountain range of Irian Jaya.

Recorded eruptions of volcanoes over the last two decades are: Sumatra - Dempo 1973, and 1974, Merapi 1978, Sorik Merapi 1989, Kerinci 1990; Sunda Strait Anak Krakatau 1978 and 1979; Java - Bromo 1972, Merapi 1972 and 1976, Raung 1978, Semeru 1978 and 1979, Butak Petarangan (Sinila and Sigludar) 1979; Paluweh - Rokatenda 1978, Galunggung 1982, Slamet 1988, Kelud 1990; Sulawesi - Lokon 1978, 1979 and 1991, Siau - Karangetang 1978 and 1979, Colo 1983, Soputan 1989; Maluku - Dukono 1978, Gamalama Kie Besi 1987, Banda Api 1988; East Nusa Tenggara - Lewotobi laki-laki 1990.

RIVERS AND LAKES Many rivers flow throughout the country. They serve as useful transportation routes on certain islands, for example, the Musi, Batanghari, Indragiri and Kampar rivers in Sumatra; the Kapuas, Barito, Mahakam and Rejang rivers in Kalimantan; and the Memberamo and Digul rivers in Irian Jaya. On Java rivers are important for irrigation purposes, i.e., the Bengawan Solo, Citarum and Brantas rivers.

A number of islands are dotted with scenic lakes, like the Toba, Maninjau and Singkarak lakes on Sumatra; the Tempe, Towuti, Sidenreng, Poso, Limboto, Tondano, and Matana lakes on Sulawesi; and the Paniai and Sentani lakes on Irian Jaya.

The Komodo dragon (Varanus komodoensis), the world's largest lizard, can grow to 3 metres long. Its home is on the Komodo group of reserves, which are comprised of Komodo, Padar and Rinca islands, off the coast of Flores in the eastern part of the country.

The "babi rusa", a deer-like pig (Babyrousa, babirussa), and the "anoa," a forest-dwelling dwarf buffalo, are among the interesting indigenous animals of Sulawesi. Other indigenous mammals of Sulawesi are the big civet cat called "musang" (Macrogalidia musshenbroeki); a species of the tersier called "binatang hantu," which literally means "spooky animal" (Tarsius spectrum) and several species of the black monkey or "monyet hitam" (Macacanigra).

The Mentawai Islands off the west coast of Sumatra are home to the "beruk," a relatively large monkey often trained to pick coconuts; and the "lutung," or black monkey, which lives on leaves.

The "Badak Jawa" or one-horned rhino (Rhinoceros sondaicus) lives in Ujung Kulon National Park in West Java, but the smaller badak Sumatra, or two-horned rhino (Dicerorhinus sumatrensis) has its habitat in the Mt. Leuser National Park (the largest such park in the country) located around the valley of the Alas river in Aceh, Indonesia's northern-most province.

Other notable animals are the "banteng" or wild bull of Java (Bos javanicus); the tree kangaroo (Dorcopsis muelleri) of Irian Jaya; the fresh water dolphin (Orcacella brevirostris) of the Mahakam river in East Kalimantan and the proboscis monkey or "bekantan," also of Kalimantan.

In addition, there is a great variety of birds, including egrets, herons, kingfishers, hawks, eagles and many others. There are also thousands of species of insects and a large variety of lizards and snakes. Tortoises and turtles, as well as exotic species of fish, crabs, mollusks and other aquatic animals, living both in salt and fresh water, are also found in great abundance.

Ornamental Fish Indonesia is known worldwide for her ornamental fish species which are exported to the United States, Japan and Germany. The species most noted for their beautiful colors and shapes include the clownfish (Amphiprion), damselfish (Dascyllus), wrasse (Coris gaimardi) and the Coris aygula which abounds in the Bali Strait.

The most common species is the green wrasse (Thalasoma lunare). The butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae) has a small snout, but longsnouted butterflyfish are also found and include the Forcipiger longirostris and Chelmon rostratus. Another species, the bannerfish (Heniochus acuminatus) has backfins longer than its body length; and the Moorish idol or Zanclus canescens can measure 20 cm.

Angelfish (Pomacanthus imperator), Pomancanthus semi-circulatus; Pygoplites-diacanthus, and Auxiphipops navarchus, or Angle fish, which belongs to the Pomancanthidae family, are all collected for their beautiful colors.

Surgeonfish (Acanthuridae) and Paracanthurus hepatus are very popular because of their distinguished bluish color. Other beautiful species are the Acanthurus leucosternon, Zebrazoma veliferum and Naso literatus. Living a solitary life is the tiger fish or Balistidae.

Sea horses, or Hippocampus coronatus, of the syngnathidae family are also among the ornamental fish sought. Peacock fish, so named because of their long fins, include the pterois zebra, brachiopterus, volitans, ruselli, miles and radiata varieties. They all belong to the Scorpanidae family. There are many more species of ornamental fish in Indonesia, far too many to mention all.

Pearl Shells Pearl oysters found in the country include the Pinctada maxima, the P. margaritifera and the Pteria penquin. These species grow in the waters around Halmahera Island, the Maluku and the Aru Islands in eastern Indonesia. The pearls are in great demand because of their large size and high quality. In the Maluku pearl shells are collected and made into beautiful ornaments.

The insect trapping pitcher plant (Nepenthea spp) is represented by different species in many areas of western Indonesia.

The myraid of orchids is rich in species, varying in size from the largest of all orchids, the tiger orchid or Grammatophyllum Speciosum, to the tiny and leafless species of Taeniophyllum which is edible and taken by the local people as a medicine and is also used in handicrafts. The forest soil is rich in humus which enables the luxuriant growth of a multitude of fungi, including the horse hair blight, the luminescent species, the sooty mold and the black mildew.

INDONESIA STANDARD TIME As of Jan 1, 1988, Indonesia's three time zones have been changed as follow:

1.Western Indonesia Standard Time equals GMT plus 7 hours (meridian 105E), covering all provinces in Sumatra and Java, and the provinces of West and Central Kalimantan. 2.Central Indonesia Standard Time equals GMT plus 8 hours (meridian 120E), covering the provinces of East and South Kalimantan, all provinces in Sulawesi, and the provinces of Bali, West and East Nusatenggara and East Timor. 3.Eastern Indonesia Standard Time equals GMT plus 9 hours (meridian 135E), covering the provinces of Maluku and Irian Jaya.

PEOPLE The population policy is directed toward development of the population as human resources in order that the national development can be effective and valuable, while the quality of life is gradually improving. Meanwhile, the control of population growth is carried out through efforts to lower the birth and mortality rate, especially that of infants and children. These efforts in particular have been implemented through family planning programs which also have the purpose of improving the welfare of mother and child and at the same time create a small, happy, and prosperous family.

BIRTH RATE The crude birth rate declined drastically from 27.3 per 1000 people in 1990 to 24.5 per 1000 in 1993. In the meantime, the fertility rate also declined from 3.3 per 1000 women of childbearing age in 1990 to 2.87 in 1993.

Several factors including a rising living standard, higher educational level and improved health services, contributed to the birth rate decline. But the greatest proportion is attributable to the increasing number of people participating in family planning, especially the new eligible couples. Moreover, contraception has become more widespread and effective, making it easier to plan families; and sterilization of men and women has also become more common.

Postponement of conception in marriages, and a trend towards later marriage has also become more popular. The available data show that the average age for marriage rose from 20.0 in 1980, to 21.9 in 1990.

MORTALITY RATE According to the statistics the expectation of life at birth for a man was 45.7 years representing a rise of about 15 years since the late 1960s, compared to 60.7 years for 1988 and 62.7 for 1990.

The crude death rate in 1988 was 7.9 per 1,000 people against 19.1 per 1,000 in 1993. The infant mortality rate declined from 67 per 1,000 live birth in 1988 to 58 in 1993. Furthermore, the crude death rate had decreased about 45.1% for the period of 1971-1990, meaning 2.3% per year.

Causes for the decline in the mortality rate include better nutrition, a rising standard of living, advances in medical science, growth of medical facilities, improved health measures, better working conditions, education in personal hygiene, and small nuclear families.

TABLE 1: Area and Population of lndonesia's Major Islands 1990* Island Percentage of Area PopulationPercentage of PopulationPopulation Density (per sq km) 1. Java (incl.Madura) 6.89 107,573,749 59.998142. Sumatra 24.6736,455,34420.33 773. Sulawesi 9.8512,521,3856.98664. Kalimantan 28.109,109,804 5.08175. Nusa Tenggara 4.6110,163,8545.671156. Irian Jaya (Western part of the island of New Guinea)21.99 1,641,430 0.92 47. Maluku 3.88 1,856,0751.0325Indonesia 100.00 179,321,641 100.0093

MIGRATION In 1992 the number of Indonesian citizens living abroad was 261,416. Of these, 190,586 went to Asian countries, 1,477 to African countries, 24,397 to European countries, 21,612 to American countries and 23,344 to Australian and other Pacifics countries.

At the same time the number of foreigners living in Indonesia was 221,461. Of these 220,129 were Asians, 2 Africans, 107 Australians, 961 Europeans, and 262 Americans. Some 79,537 chose to live in Sumatra, 96,800 in Java, 9,553 in Nusa Tenggara, 9,582 in Kalimantan, 18,858 in Sulawesi, 5,799 in Maluku and Irian Jaya. There were also 71,058 temporary immigrants throughout the country.

URBANIZATION Like in many countries, particularly those in the developing world, the city is always the major attraction for the rural population. This is especially true where the land no longer offers an effective means to learn a living. Indonesia is no exception. Over the years, particularly after World War II, cities have grown rapidly in population, so much so that municipal governments have not been very successful in coping with the impact of urbanization. Prevalent are the pressing needs for employment, housing, transportation and other social requirements.

THE NATIONALITY ACT Indonesian nationality is governed by Act No. 62 of 1958. It defines an Indonesian national as a person who, since the beginning of independence on August 17, 1945, qualifies for citizenship under existing laws.

Further, a person whose mother is an Indonesian national, but whose father's nationality is unknown or whose father is stateless, shall qualify for Indonesian citizenship. Also, a person who was born in Indonesia from unknown parents, or an orphan whose parents are unknown, or a person born in Indonesia who does not inherit any nationality from his/her parents, shall qualify for Indonesian citizenship.

A five year old child, who is adopted by foster parents of Indonesian nationality, shall qualify for Indonesian nationality if the foster parents apply to a court to legitimize the adoption within one year and are granted their request.

A child born from a legitimate marriage of an Indonesian mother and an alien father shall, in the event a divorce is granted by the court, qualify for Indonesian nationality if he/she so decides.

A child born from a legitimate or illegitimate marriage between an alien father and an Indonesian mother is entitled to become an Indonesian national if he/she applies to the Minister of Justice, having abandoned his/her alien nationality according to the law of the foreign country or in accordance with an agreement concluded between Indonesia and a foreign country. In such case a child shall submit the application within a year after reaching the age of 18.

To obtain Indonesian nationality, aliens must fulfill the following conditions:

1.Have reached the age of 21 or over; 2.Were born in Indonesia or have lived in Indonesia continuously for 5 years, or interruptedly for 10 years; 3.Have a fair command of the Indonesian language and knowledge of Indonesian history, and have never been convicted by a court for a breach of law or for any act against Indonesia; 4.Have the consent oi the wife/husband; 5.Are mentally and physically healthy; 6.Pay a fee of not less than Rp 500 and not more than Rp10,000, which shall be decided by the court, taking into consideration the applicant's income; 7.Have permanent employment; 8.Have no other nationality or have abandoned his/her nationality which is in conformity with an agreement on dual nationality reached between Indonesia and the foreign country.

An alien married woman is not entitled to apply for Indonesian citizenship. However, Indonesian nationality may be granted to aliens who have proved meritorious and have served the interest of Indonesia. Such nationality shall be granted with the approval of the House of Representatives.

An alien wife of an Indonesian national is entitled to Indonesian citizenship if she so wishes and makes a statement to that effect within a year of the marriage. This does not apply if the husband has abandoned his Indonesian nationality.

An Indonesian woman married to an alien husband shall lose her Indonesian nationality if she makes a statement to this effect within a year of her marriage.

Indonesian nationality obtained by a husband shall automatically apply to his wife except where she, after acquiring Indonesian nationality, does not abandon her alien nationality.

If a person loses his/her Indonesian nationality, his wife/her husband also loses it, except where both of them are stateless.

A person who has lost his/her Indonesian nationality by marriage can regain it if the marriage is broken off and the person applies for it. Such an application shall include a statement of the broken marriage and be submitted to a court or an Indonesian diplomatic mission abroad.

A child under the age of 18 who is not married and retains his/her kinship with the father who has not yet acquired Indonesian nationality, qualifies for Indonesian nationality if he/she lives permanently in Indonesia.

If a widow or widower obtains Indonesian nationality, her/his child shall be entitled to the same provided that the latter is under 18 years of age and not married. This also applies to children under 18 and not married, born to parents who have lost their Indonesian nationality.

LANGUAGES AND DIALECTS There are about 583 languages and dialects spoken in the archipelago. There normally belong to the different ethnic groups of the population. Some of the distinctly different local languages are: Acehnese, Batak, Sundanese, Javanese, Sasak, Tetum of Timor, Dayak, Minahasa, Toraja, Buginese, Halmahera, Ambonese, Ceramese, and several Irianese languages. To make the picture even more colorful, these languages are also spoken in different dialects.

THE LINGUA FRANCA The national language of Indonesia is "Bahasa Indonesia". Originally it was the Malay language mainly spoken in the Riau Islands. In its spread throughout the country, its vocabulary and idioms have been enriched by a great number of local languages.

To keep pace with religious, social and cultural progress, many words and terms have been derived from foreign languages, including Dutch, Chinese, Sanskrit, Arabic and, later, Portuguese. Although Bahasa Indonesia has become the lingua franca, local languages and dialects continue to be spoken and will not be abolished.

THE LARGE SCALE MIGRATION During the Neolitic Period (3000-2000 BC) a large-scale migration of people took place from the Asian mainland to the south. This migration originated in Yunan in South China and Tonkin. These people had developed a higher degree of civilization compared to that of the Wajaks, the indigenous people of Indonesia. The Wajaks lived a primitive life of food gathering, hunting and fishing. Of agriculture, they only knew primitive forms of growing sweet potatoes (Dioscorea esculanta) and the keladi yam (Colocasia antiquorum).

The Sub-Mongolian migrants came down the big rivers of South China in the direction of the Salween River. This river flows from Tanglha in Tibet into present-day Myanmar, where the migrants mixed with the Karen people. In Assam the newcomers learned rice cultivation in wet fields. Over long distances and centuries this process eventually made its way to Indonesia. Some of the migrants settled in the Mekhong River basin, where they inter-married with the Mon of present day Thailand and Laos, and with the Khmer of present day Kampuchea.

Some of these people went eastwards to Quemoy where they learned maritime techniques. This enabled them to sail in canoes fitted with outriggers to the islands of Riukyu and Taiwan in the south Pacific. From there they crossed the seas to present-day Philippines and to the island chain of Sangir, Sulawesi, Halmahera, Maluku, Nusa Tenggara, Java and Sumatra. In the end, they went as far as the island of Madagascar, now called Malagasi. Others sailed along the island of Okinawa to Japan.

The Sub-Mongolian migrants who settled in Indonesia, inter-married with the Wajaks. With their higher state of civilization, the migrants dominated the indigenous people. But the Wajaks learned much from them, including the cultivation of rice, which became the staple food of Indonesia. They also learned the use of new quadrangular adzes, and bronze and iron tools. The migrants even introduced coins.

At a later stage, a wave of Indo-Arian migrants entered Indonesia from India through the Strait of Malacca and the Java Sea. They inter-married with the already-mixed races in Indonesia.

Source : Soetjipto, H., Karamoy, W. A., Wuryani, M. S., et al., "INDONESIA 1995 : AN OFFICIAL HANDBOOK", Department of Information, Directorate of Foreign Information Services, Perum Percetakan Negara RI, 1994.

1996, Embassy of Indonesia, Ottawa-Canada updated : June 19, 1996


\4 Consular info

Indonesia is an independent rep consisting of more than 13,500 islands spread over 3000 mi. Indonesia's economy is developing, and tourist services are plentiful in the major tourist areas. East Timor voted for independence from Indonesia in an Aug 30, 1999 referendum and is currently under the auth of the UN Transitional Admin in East Timor (UNTAET). UNTAET was est by a unanimous vote of the UN Security Council on Oct 25 1999, for the purpose of rebuilding East Timor and helping to est a new govt. Its initial mandate expires on Jan 31 2001.

ENTRY RQMNTS: A passport valid for six months beyond the intended date of dep from Indonesia/East Timor is reqd. A visa is not reqd for tourist stays up to two months in Indonesia. Entry into East Timor is currently controlled by UNTAET, which can be difficult to reach due to limited comm infrastructure. American citizens wishing to enter East Timor can contact the US Emb in Jakarta for current guidance. For more info re entry rqmnts for Indonesia, travelers may contact the Indonesia Emb, 2020 Mass Ave, NW, Wash, DC 20036, (202) 775-5200, or www.kbri.org.

DUAL NATIONALITY: Indonesian law does not recognize dual nationality. Because of this, US citizens who are doc as Indonesian nationals may experience difficulties with immigration formalities in Indonesia. Dual nationality does not exempt US citizens from the obligations of either country, and it may hamper efforts to provide consular protection when abroad.

SAFETY/SECURITY: After over 30 years in office, the govt of Pres Suharto came to an end in May 1998 amid wide spread demos, rioting and looting throughout the country. Peaceful parliamentary elections were held in most parts of the country on Jun 7 1999 and were followed by the election of Pres Abdurrahman Wahid on Oct 20 1999.

These steps revitalized Indonesia's political institutions and restored a measure of stability and security in most of the major cities, some of which experienced violent demos under the interim govt in 1998-99. Nevertheless, the political situation remains fluid as the new government faces continued civil strife in some important outlying areas, most notably Aceh, Papua (the province formerly known as Irian Jaya), and Maluku. Violence in these areas, that continued throughout 98-99, has occasionallly targeted American citizens. Travel to these areas can be dangerous and is to be avoided.

Over the past year, there has been widespread violence in the Molucca Islands and Aceh. Past violence in Aceh has sometimes targeted American companies. Travelers should consult the most recent Public Announcement on Indonesia for updated info on travel to these areas.

Violence erupted throughout East Timor after the Aug 30, 1999, UN-sponsored ballot in that province. Although stability returned to the area with the arrival of intl forces, American citizens are strongly encouraged to exercise caution in East Timor.

Travelers may need permits to visit certain regions in the province of Papua. In 1996, a group of foreigners was taken hostage for several months in Papua (then known as Irian Jaya) by the Free Papua Movement (OPM). US citizens should exercise caution when traveling in the province.

Demos in Bali have been infrequent and have not been directed at American citizens. Violent demos of short-lived duration occurred in Oct 99, but did not target foreigners or the major tourist areas. In Jan 2000, however, serious rioting directed against Chinese and Christians broke out in the nearby resort island of Lombok, forcing the evacuation of virtually all foreigners from Lombok, inc the resort areas. American citizens should consult the most recent Public Announce on Indonesia for updated info on travel to Lombok.

For more specific and up-to-date info on the safety of travel to these and other areas of Indonesia and East Timor, consult the most recent Public Announcement on Indonesia, which can be found on the Bureau of Consular Affairs at: travel.state.gov. Americans can also contact the US Emb in Jakarta or the Consulate Gen in Surabaya for updated info. American citizens in all parts of Indonesia should exercise prudence and common sense, and avoid demos and other situations that could turn violent.

Travelers and residents should always ensure that PPs and personal papers are in order in the event that it becomes necessary to leave the country quickly for any reason. Americans traveling in Indonesia should remember that much of the country, including many tourist dests, is isolated and difficult to reach by avail trans or comm.

CRIME INFO: The crime rate in Jakarta is moderate, but rising. Minor crimes, such as pickpocketing and thefts, occur in popular tourist sites throughout the country. Incidents of robbery have been reported.

One common technique involves puncturing automobile tires so that the occupants of the car can be robbed while changing the tire. The number of beggars and vagrants at intersections has increased, and thefts and robberies from cars stopped at traffic lights have been reported. American citizens are advised to keep car doors locked and windows rolled up.

Americans in Jakarta who need taxis are advised to engage a taxi either from a major htl queue or by calling a taxi company, rather than hailing one on the street. Sporadic roadblocks and robberies have been reported on the toll roads leading to the Intl Airport in Jakarta.

Maritime piracy is a persistent prob in some Indonesian waters, targeting both pleasure and commercial vessels. Pleasure yachters are advised to review the current security situation with their local agent when planning itineraries and to exercise particular care when sailing in the Straits of Malacca between Riau Province and SIN and in the waters north of Sulawesi and Kalimantan.

Poaching and illegal logging are serious problems in Indonesian parks and nature preserves. Those involved in these activities have sometimes threatened tourists and others in order to discourage travel to these areas.

In the aftermath of the Aug 1999 vote for independence, East Timor was swept by violence that included widespread looting and burning and, in some cases, murder. One foreign journalist was shot to death and several others were beaten. Although UN peacekeeping forces have restored a measure of stability to the region, violent incidents remain possible in border areas. Elsewhere in the territory, theft is a potential problem.

Lost or stolen passports should be reported to the local police and the U.S. Emb or consulate. Useful info on guarding valuables and protecting personal security while traveling abroad is provided in the Dept of State pamphlet A Safe Trip Abroad, which is avail from the Superintendent of Docs, U.S. Govt Printing Office, Wash, DC 20402, or www.access.gpo.gov/su_docs.

MED FACILITIES: The general level of sanitation and health care in Indonesia is below US stds. Some level of routine med care is avail in all major cities, although most expatriates choose to leave the country for serious med procs. Med care in East Timor is extremely limited. Serious med problems requiring hospitalization and/or med evac to the US can cost thousands of dollars. Doctors and hosp often expect immediate cash payment for med svcs.

MED INS: US med ins is not always valid outside the US. US Medicare and Medicaid pgms do not provide payment for med services outside the US. Uninsured travelers who require med care overseas may face extreme difficulties. Please check with your own ins company to confirm whether your policy applies overseas, including provisions for med evac.

Ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas hosp or doc or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you incur. Some ins policies also include coverage for psychiatric treatment and for disposition of remains in the event of death. Useful info on med emergencies abroad, including overseas ins pgms, is provided in the Dept of State's Bureau of Consular Affairs brochure, Med Info for Americans Traveling Abroad, available via the Bureau of Consular Affairs at http://travel.state.gov.

OTHER HEALTH INFO: Info on vaccinations and other health precautions may be obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Preventions hotline for intl travelers at 1-877-FYI-TRIP (1-877-394-8747); fax 1-888-CDC-FAXX (1-888-232-3299), or via CDC at www.cdc.gov.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Indonesia is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance: Safety of Public Transportation: Poor Urban Road Cond/Maint: Variable Rural Road Conditions/Maintenance: Poor Availability of Roadside Assistance: Limited

All traffic operates on the left side of the road, and most vehicles use right-hand drive. Roads in major cities and toll roads are good. Roads are narrower and may be more poorly maintained in rural areas and remote regions. Driving at night outside major cities can be hazardous.

Taxis are an affordable means of trans, but should be called directly or hired from the taxi queue at a reputable hotel. Make sure the taxi driver agrees to take you to your destination. Never get into a taxi already occupied by another passenger, and always insist on using the taxi meter.

For specific information concerning the operation and rental of motor vehicles in Indonesia, please contact the Indonesian Directorate General of Tourism via the Internet at www.tourismindonesia.com.

AVIATION OVERSIGHT: The US Fed Aviation Admin (FAA) has assessed the Govt of Indonesias civil aviation authority as Category 1 - in compliance with intl aviation safety stds for oversight of Indonesia's air carrier operations. For further info, travelers may contact the Dept of Trans in the U.S. at 800-322-7873, or visit the FAA's Internet web site at: faa.gov/avr/iasa/index.htm.

The US Dept of Defense (DOD) separately assesses some foreign air carriers for suitability as official providers of air services. For info regarding the DOD policy on specific carriers, travelers may contact the DOD at (618) 256-4801.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS: Indonesia's customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temp importation into or export from Indonesia. This is true for both commercial and personal use items (such as prescription medicines). It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Indonesia in Wash, DC at (202) 775-5200, or one of Indonesia's consulates in the US, for specific info regarding customs requirements.

CRIMINAL PENALTIES: While in a foreign country, a U.S. citizen is subject to that countrys laws and regs, which sometimes differ significantly from those in the US and do not afford the same protections available to the individual under U.S. law. Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the US for similar offenses.

Persons violating the laws of Indonesia or East Timor, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Criminal penalties for possession, use, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Indonesia and East Timor are strict, and convicted offenders can expect severe jail sentences and fines. UNTAET is responsible for security and law enforcement in East Timor.

CONSULAR ACCESS: U.S. citizens are encouraged to carry a copy of their U.S. passports with them at all times, so that, if questioned by local officials, proof of identity and U.S. citizenship are readily available. When U.S. citizens are arrested or detained, formal notification of the arrest is normally provided to the Embassy in Jakarta in writing, a process that can take several days or weeks. If detained, U.S. citizens are encouraged to attempt to telephone the nearest U.S. consular office.

SPECIAL CIRCUMSTANCES: U.S. citizens involved in commercial or property matters should be aware that the business environment is complex. In many cases, trade complaints are difficult to resolve.

DISASTER PREPAREDNESS: Indonesia is located in an area of high seismic activity. Although the probability of a major earthquake occurring during an individual trip is remote, earthquakes can and will continue to happen. General info regarding disaster preparedness is avail via the Internet at travel.state.gov/crisismg.html, and from the U.S. Fed Emergency Mgmnt Agcy (FEMA) home page at http://www.fema.gov.

CHILDRENS ISSUES: For info on intl adoption of children or intl parental child abduction, please refer to our Internet site at travel.state.gov/children's_issues.html or (202) 736-7000.

REGISTRATION AND EMBASSY LOCATION: Americans living in or visiting Indonesia and East Timor are encouraged to register at the US Emb or Consulate where they may obtain updated info on travel and security within the country.

The U.S. Embassy is located in Jakarta at Medan Merdeka Selatan 5; tel (62)(21) 344-2211; fax (62)(21) 386-2259. The Emb web site is at usembassyjakarta.org. The Consular Section can be reached by e-mail at jakconsul@state.gov.

The U.S. Consulate General is in Surabaya at Jalan Raya Dr. Sutomo 33; telephone: (62)(31)567-2287/8; fax (62)(31)567-4492; e-mail amconsby@rad.net.id. There is a Consular Agency in Bali at Jalan Hayam Wuruk 188, Denpasar, Bali; telephone: (62)(361)233-605; fax (62)(31) 222-426; e-mail tabuh@denpasar.wasantara.net.id.

The U.S. Consulate in Medan closed in May 1996. Negotiations are currently underway to reopen this office. There are also plans to open a U.S. liaison office in East Timor. Until there is an official U.S. presence in East Timor, Americans requiring assistance should contact the U.S. Embassy in Jakarta or the U.S. Consulate General in Surabaya.

This replaces the Consular Info Sheet dated Sep 14 1999


\5 Wayang

Inevitability, upon arrival somewhere in Java, a visitor shall see some colorful flat leather puppets, the WAYANG KULIT. Wayang means shadow, kulit means leather. WAYANG is a Javanese ancient cultural heritage which is very popular to present date and has become a hardly expression embracing most types of theater. The visitor will see everywhere; in airports, hotels, shops, museum, even in palaces the WAYANG leather puppets such as RAMA, SHINTA, ANOMAN, RAHWANA, KUMBAKARNA, from RAMAYANA epic and PUNTADEWA, BIMA, ARJUNA, NAKULA, SADEWA, DURYUDANA, DURNA, KARNA, from MAHABARATA epic, and also SEMAR  the most popular dwarf clown figure.
  Many experts are of the opinion that a form of WAYANG have been existed long before arrival of Hindu. The tales of WAYANG, either from RAMAYANA or MAHABARATA performed here are of Javanese version. There are many people who believe, even now, that the event in WAYANG, actually took place in ancient Java with Javanese actors.

During the rule of King SRI MAHA PUNGGUNG (RADEN JAKA PAKUKUHAN), in the 4th century, with his Karaton (palace) JAWADWIPA in mount GEDE (West Java) began the stories of WAYANG from Javanese RAMAYANA and MAHABARATA. Furthermore it was developed by AIRLANGGA, one of the great king in East Java in the 11th century.

The two great Indian epics, Ramayana and Mahabarata, captured the imagination of nearly every culture in SE Asia which had contact with Indians. Both of these epics have been with the Javanese since the influence of India was first felt during the first century A.D.

Both epics are the basis of the most important wayang kulit stories, now called wayang purwa. These lakon or stories number as many as two hundred. In the process of Javanese oral tradition, the stories serve as a bare outline and have been transformed into entirely Javanese versions. Now one often refer to these as Rama cycle for the Ramayana and Pendawa cycle for the Mahabarata.

The dalang manipulates the puppets, sings and taps out signals to the orchestra. He also speaks the parts for all characters; he must be able to render the shy sweetness in the voice of a princess, the spiteful whine of a lackey and the righteous but controlled anger of a noble hero

Balinese Wayang Kulit takes place as a part of temple celebrations or other religious events. The purpose of the Wayang is to bless the occasion by inviting ancestral spirits to visit the temple.

Bountiful offerings are presented before, during, and after the performance, which may last from three to four hours. Balinese Wayang is not an all night performance as it is in Java. Plays usually begin sometime between nine and eleven o'clock.

The Stage The screen is a sheet of linen about nine feet wide and four feet tall. The top and bottom are bordered with bands of black. It is streched between two vertical bamboo poles. These poles are sometimes part of a bamboo platform built specially for the event. The poles can also be tied to the pillars of an existing "Bale" (bah-lay), a cement or tile platform with a thatch or tile roof and open walls.

The top of the screen is lashed to a horizontal bamboo pole bridging the top of the verticals. The bottom of the screen is staked into a long section of trunk from a banana tree supported by shorter pieces of banana tree set perpendicular and beneath each end. The banana log is used to hold the characters upright and in place on the screen by stabbing their pointed handles firmly into the soft banana bark.

Balinese Wayang is not always in shadow. Daytime Wayang is known as Wayang Lemah. In place of the screen is a horizontal string supported about a foot above the banana log by two branches from a "Dap Dap" tree mounted at the ends.

The Balinese Dalang is often a kind of priest, performing acts of offering and cleansing. Mantras are recited before and after the performance. A primary purpose of shadow play is for the Dalang to make holy water. The water is used for prayer and to bless the area and participants.

Holy water is prepared by adding flowers to water from a high stream and reciting mantras with incense and sprinklings of rice. There is also an abundance of offerings presented at the time of making holy water.

Many traditions are upheld by the Dalang. Wayang may only be successfully performed on an auspicious day. The Dalang must enter the area from a particular direction. Before crossing the threshold, the Dalang judges the breath in his nostrils and steps in with the side of his body which is clearest.

A Dalang is usually accompanied by two assistants who sit to his sides in performance. They assemble the screen, help prepare the characters, and maintain the lamp. The assistants must know the stories very well to be effective, anticipating the needs of the Dalang.

A meal of the finest available food is offered to the Dalang, his assistants, and musicians before they perform. Sitting music begins when the dalang has finished eating and is discussing local events with the hosts. The actual overture begins only when the Dalang is ready and cues the players.

The Dalang's pay for the performance is relative to the economic state of the hosting family or community. It could be only a few chickens or whatever the people can afford, or it could be a higher price. Either way, it is the responsibility of the Dalang to facilitate the religious event to the best of his ability, regardless of other factors.

The Gedogan Shadow Box. The Dalang begins the overture with three thumps of the palm of his hand on the closed top of the wooden box which holds the characters. The characters are then removed one by one during the overture. The empty box, or Gedog (Geh-Dohg), is then used as an instrument. The vertical side of the Gedog closest to the Dalang is loosely hinged so that it produces a sound when slapped shut.

The Dalang uses small wooden mallets held between the toes of the right foot and in the left hand to strike the Gedogan in rhythm. These sounds add punctuation to speech and on screen action. They also cue the musicians to change, speed up or slow down.

The Wayang Play. The lamp is lit and the overture begins with a chiming Ginoman fanfare. The first event is the dance of the Kayon, the tree of life. Characters are then removed from the Gedog one by one. Those that will be used in the episode are placed on the banana log with their backs to the screen. Others are placed to the sides. The overture continues until all the characters have been sorted and removed from the banana log. The most prominant characters in the episode are the last to leave the screen, an indicator to the audience of which episode has been chosen.

The Tree of Life in the center of the screen awakes again to a strong wind blowing. This leads into a series of character meetings and travels which reveal the episode.

There is usually a love scene and a sad scene at some point in the story. Other events include chases, magical archery, and battle. The play ends with the Kayon planted firmly in the center of the screen with the attendants Tualen and Mergdah at it's sides. The Gamelan plays a series of closing pieces and the Holy Water is made.

Characters. The most popular Wayang characters in Bali are from the Mahabarata, Arjuna, Bima, Yudistira, and Krishna, and their oppontents, Duryodana and Karna. Others include the monkey Hanuman, and the lovers Rama and Sita from the Ramayana.

Also popular are the servants. On the good side are Tualen and his son Mergdah. Delem and his brother Sangut support the other side. Two other servants appear regularly, Bu Tua, the old lady, and Suratma, the gate keeper of heaven.

Characters on the side of good always enter the screen from the Dalang's right. Other characters enter from the left. Different styles of Wayang often use an entirely unique set of characters, such as Wayang Arja, and Wayang Gambuh, very old classical forms featuring the Panji stories. . Music. Balinese Wayang of the Mahabarata, known as Wayang Parwa, and Wayang Sapu Leger, for exorcism, is accomp-anied by Gamelan Gender Wayang. Gender Wayang consists of two or four metallophones with ten bronze bars each played with wooden mallets.

Listen to Gender Wayang from Sukawati. Many styles of Gamelan may accompany other types of shadow play. For the Ramayana story, Gender Wayang is augmented by a "Batel" ensemble including drums, gongs, flute, and other instruments. Wayang Gambuh uses an ensemble of meter long flutes, drums, gongs, and cymbals. Wayang Arja is accompanied by tiny flutes, drums, cymbals, and bamboo gongs. Wayang Tantri, a newer creation by Wayan Wija, uses Gamelan Semar Pegulingan.


\6 Bali

island and provinsi (province) in the Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, 1 mile (1.6 km) east of Java. Most of Bali is mountainous (essentially an extension of the central mountain chain in Java), the highest point being Mount Agung, or Bali Peak, 10,308 feet and known locally as the "navel of the world." It proved to be an active volcano, erupting in 1963 (after a dormancy of 120 yrs), killing 1500 people and leaving thousands homeless.

The main lowland is south of the central mountains. The period of the southeast monsoon (May to Nov) is the dry season. Bali's flora (mostly hilly tropical rain forest) and fauna resemble those of Java. Some teak grows on Bali, and the giant banyan (waringin) trees are held sacred by the Balinese. Tigers are found in the west, and deer and wild pigs are numerous.

When Islam triumphed over Hinduism in Java (16th cen), Bali became a refuge for many Hindu nobles, priests, and intellectuals. Today it is the only remaining stronghold of Hinduism in the archipelago, and Balinese life is centred on religion--a blend of Hinduism (especially that of the Saivite sect), Buddhism, Malay ancestor cult, and animistic and magical beliefs and practices.

Places of worship are numerous and widespread, and there is a firm belief in reincarnation. Caste is observed, though less strictly than is the case in India, since nine-tenths of the population belong to the Sudra, the lowest caste. The nobility is divided into priests (Brahman), the military and ruling royalty (Kshatriya), and the merchants (Vaisya). Some Muslims and Chinese live in northern and western Bali, and there are a few Christians. The Balinese language is distinct from that of eastern Java, but the upper-class form contains many Javanese and Sanskrit words.

The two major towns are Singaraja and Denpasar, the provincial capital; others include Klungkung, a centre of wood carving and gold and silver industries; Gianyar, with a lively market; Kuta, Sanur, and Nusa Dua, centres of the flourishing tourist trade; and Ubud, in the foothills, a centre for European and American artists, with a fine art museum. All Balinese villages have temples and an assembly hall, usually located on a square that serves for festivals and markets. Each family lives in its own compound surrounded by earthen or stone walls. Population density in the lowlands is more than 1,500 per square mile (580 per square km).

Balinese farmers, raising principally rice, are organized into cooperative water-control boards. The average farm is 2.5 acres (1 hectare). About one-quarter of the agricultural acreage is irrigated, the remainder being used for yams, cassava, corn (maize), coconuts, fruits, and, occasionally, oil palm and coffee plantings. A large cattle population is supplemented by smaller livestock.

There are several meat-processing plants; fishing is only a minor occupation. Food must be imported because of the growing population, but exports include beef, pork, coffee, copra, and palm oil.

The tourist industry and the sale of craft articles are important to the economy. There is an airport on the south-central coast near Denpasar. The Balinese are fond of music, poetry, dancing, and festivals, are extra-ordinarily able in arts and crafts, and are passionately fond of betting games, especially cockfighting.

A typical Balinese gamelan (orchestra) consists of vari-ous percussion instruments, a two-string violin, and a flute; and every village has its gamelan club. Stage plays and, especially, dancing are an integral part of Balinese life, serving magico-religious purposes or tell-ing stories by pantomime. The artistic temperament is also evident in sculpture, painting, silverwork, and wood carving and bone carving and in the animal-shaped wooden coffins in which corpses are carried to the cremation ground.

Visited by Chinese traders and Indian literati, the Balinese had embraced Hinduism by the 7th century AD. Mahendradatta, the mother of Airlangga (who ruled Java from 1019 to c. 1049), married Udayana, the Balinese king, and many Javanese Hindus immigrated to Bali. In 1284 Kertanagara, last king of Tumapel (Singhasari) in Java, captured Bali; upon his death in 1292, the island regained its independence. Bali came under the rule of the Majapahit empire of eastern Java in 1343 and continued under the Majapahits until the empire was overthrown in 1478 by Muslims.

The Dutch first visited Bali in 1597, when the island was divided among a number of warring Muslim states. The Dutch annexed the northern Balinese states of Buleleng and Jembrana in 1882, and, in the 1894 Dutch invasion of nearby Lombok Island, the Balinese prince, Anak Agung Ktut, was killed. In 1906 the Dutch attacked Denpasar, massacred about 3,600 Balinese, and captured the whole island. Bali was occupied by the Japs during WW II.

In 1946 a battle was fought between Dutch troops and Indonesian revolutionary forces at Marga in western Bali. The island became part of the Republic of Indonesia in 1950. Pop. 4 million est.

--------------------------------------------------------- Encyclopdia Britannica | article page



Thursday, Jun. 29, 2000

ENCYCLOPDIA BRITANNICA

Bali



Rice paddies on Bali, Indonesia

island and provinsi ("province") in the Lesser Sunda Islands, Indonesia, 1 mile (1.6 km) east of the island of Java. The provinsi has an area of 2,147 square miles (5,561 square km). Most of Bali is mountainous (essentially an extension of the central mountain chain in Java), the highest point being Mount Agung, or Bali Peak, 10,308 feet (3,142 m) in height and known locally as the "navel of the world." It proved to be an active volcano, erupting in 1963 (after a dormancy of 120 years), killing more than 1,500 persons and leaving thousands homeless. The main lowland is south of the central mountains. The period of the southeast monsoon (May to November) is the dry season. Bali's flora (mostly hilly tropical rain forest) and fauna resemble those of Java. Some teak grows on Bali, and the giant banyan (waringin) trees are held sacred by the Balinese. Tigers are found in the west, and deer and wild pigs are numerous. When Islam triumphed over Hinduism in Java (16th century), Bali became a
refuge for many Hindu nobles, priests, and intellectuals. Today it is the only remaining stronghold of Hinduism in the archipelago, and Balinese life is centred on religion--a blend of Hinduism (especially that of the Saivite sect), Buddhism, Malay ancestor cult, and animistic and magical beliefs and practices. Places of worship are numerous and widespread, and there is a firm belief in reincarnation. Caste is observed, though less strictly than is the case in India, since nine-tenths of the population belong to the Sudra, the lowest caste. The nobility is divided into priests (Brahman), the military and ruling royalty (Kshatriya), and the merchants (Vaisya). Some Muslims and Chinese live in northern and western Bali, and there are a few Christians. The Balinese language is distinct from that of eastern Java, but the upper-class form contains many Javanese and Sanskrit words. The two major towns are Singaraja and Denpasar, the provincial capital; others include Klungkung, a centre of
wood carving and gold and silver industries; Gianyar, with a lively market; Kuta, Sanur, and Nusa Dua, centres of the flourishing tourist trade; and Ubud, in the foothills, a centre for European and American artists, with a fine art museum. All Balinese villages have temples and an assembly hall, usually located on a square that serves for festivals and markets. Each family lives in its own compound surrounded by earthen or stone walls. Population density in the lowlands is more than 1,500 per square mile (580 per square km). Balinese farmers, raising principally rice, are organized into cooperative water-control boards. The average farm is 2.5 acres (1 hectare). About one-quarter of the agricultural acreage is irrigated, the remainder being used for yams, cassava, corn (maize), coconuts, fruits, and, occasionally, oil palm and coffee plantings. A large cattle population is supplemented by smaller livestock. There are several meat-processing plants; fishing is only a minor occupation.
Food must be imported because of the growing population, but exports include beef, pork, coffee, copra, and palm oil. The tourist industry and the sale of craft articles are important to the economy. There is an airport on the south-central coast near Denpasar. The Balinese are fond of music, poetry, dancing, and festivals, are extraordinarily able in arts and crafts, and are passionately fond of betting games, especially cockfighting. A typical Balinese gamelan (orchestra) consists of various percussion instruments, a two-string violin, and a flute; and every village has its gamelan club. Stage plays and, especially, dancing are an integral part of Balinese life, serving magico-religious purposes or telling stories by pantomime. The artistic temperament is also evident in sculpture, painting, silverwork, and wood carving and bone carving and in the animal-shaped wooden coffins in which corpses are carried to the cremation ground.

Visited by Chinese traders and Indian literati, the Balinese had embraced Hinduism by the 7th century AD. Mahendradatta, the mother of Airlangga (who ruled Java from 1019 to c. 1049), married Udayana, the Balinese king, and many Javanese Hindus immigrated to Bali. In 1284 Kertanagara, last king of Tumapel (Singhasari) in Java, captured Bali; upon his death in 1292, the island regained its independence. Bali came under the rule of the Majapahit empire of eastern Java in 1343 and continued under the Majapahits until the empire was overthrown in 1478 by Muslims. The Dutch first visited Bali in 1597, when the island was divided among a number of warring Muslim states. The Dutch annexed the northern Balinese states of Buleleng and Jembrana in 1882, and, in the 1894 Dutch invasion of nearby Lombok Island, the Balinese prince, Anak Agung Ktut, was killed. In 1906 the Dutch attacked Denpasar, massacred about 3,600 Balinese, and captured the whole island. Bali was occupied by the Japs during
World War II. In 1946 a battle was fought between Dutch troops and Indonesian revolutionary forces at Marga in western Bali. The island became part of the Republic of Indonesia in 1950.

When to Go - Bali & Lombok

When to Go

Located firmly in the tropical zone, just eight degrees south of the Equator, Bali and Lombok enjoy fairly constant year-round temperatures, averaging 26 degrees centigrade in the shade. Both islands are hit by an annual monsoon which brings rain, wind, and a sometimes unbearable 97 percent humidity from October through till March. In addition, the climate differs quite significantly on the coast and in the mountains, with temperatures averaging four to five degrees cooler in the hills than at sea level, although the coastal areas are subject to moderating sea breezes.

The best time to visit is outside the monsoon season, from Apr thru till Sep, though monsoons are, like most other events in Indonesia, notoriously unpunctual. However, the prospect of a daily rainstorm shouldn't put you off coming to the islands altogether.

Rain rarely lasts all day in the monsoon season, and you're far more likely to get an hour-long downpour than day-long drizzle. In addition, the landscape is at its most verdant during this time, and the rivers and waterfalls at their most dramatic (mountain-climbing, however, is both unrewarding and dangerous at this time of year). You should also be aware of the peak tourist seasons. Resorts on both islands get packed out between mid-June and mid-September and again over the Christmas-New Year period, when prices rocket and rooms can be fully booked for days if not weeks in advance.

Bali remains blessedly isolated from the religious, ethnic and political warfare of some of Indonesia's other islands.

UBUD, Bali, Indonesia -- On the road to Seminyak, I asked the driver to stop beside a magnificent spread of rice terraces, Bali's beauty mark. I wanted a picture. When I aimed the camera at the brilliant green field, I noticed a farmer far off in the distance, knee-deep in water and pulling at rice shoots. He wore the traditional, woven cone-shaped hat to ward off the sun, and he labored by himself.

His rice paddy was more than a place where grain could grow. It had become, I realized, a work of art. Terraces ringed a hillside, where man and nature had cooperated to make the land appear to be a gigantic array of verdant necklaces.

The farmer stood up straight and waved. I returned the wave and hoped it conveyed my admiration for his masterpiece.

A trip through Bali, just a dot on the Indonesian archipelago, cannot be anything other than an artistic experience. On a broken sidewalk in Ubud, beneath which irrigation water flows from a distant mountain lake, little coconut-leaf baskets filled with blossoms stand before the entrances of every shop.

They decorate, but they are not there for decoration. Their purpose is to appease the gods and placate evil spirits. Those baskets are as much a part of life in Bali as the family motorbike or the morning market.

Bali happens to be the largest concentration of Hindus outside of India -- almost all of the 3 million people on the island practice the religion. (See also: Cultural complexion.)

But they practice it in their own special way. The complexities of it are woven into each life, and to an outsider the rituals, the temples, the offerings, the ceremonies might be appreciated as aesthetic exercises -- even if the specifics of belief resist easy understanding.

Wayan Windra, my guide, took me to his house in a northern suburb of Denpasar, because he said it was typical, "and I want you to see how people live." It was a compound, four whitewashed buildings with a temple in the rear. The temple was not a structure so much as a collection of handsomely carved shrines to deified ancestors. Adding to the spirituality of that corner were depictions of the Hindu god in his many aspects, plus fierce, gargoyle-style statues to frighten evil spirits. In Bali, it is said, temples outnumber houses. (See also: Q & A.)

The family sharing Windra's quarters at the moment -- two of Windra's brothers and their wives and children, plus his mother -- flowed in and out of the buildings: a kitchen, a dining and sitting place, a honeymoon cottage for married children to use until they can become established. Last, but far from least, is a multi-purpose pavilion called bale dangin.

"We use the bale dangin for all kinds of ceremonies," Windra said. "If there's a marriage, or a death, or a birth, we go here. This is where we do the tooth filing." Pubescent offspring undergo a painful and highly ceremonial tooth filing to even off the points of their canines, which are considered too bestial for humans and a potential source of unwanted animalistic behavior.

Life's ceremonies take time and require elaborate preparation. Sometimes, several families will join together when their children reach the age of filing. Birthdays and funeral processions and holidays all require special foods and elaborate offerings fashioned into towers of fruit and rice cakes. A cremation may be the most elaborate ceremony of all, and although all the dead must be cremated on the island, some bodies remain buried for years while families save the money for a proper, lavish event.

"It is expensive to die on Bali," Windra observed.

A TASTE OF "HEAVEN" The bale dangin was open, and but for the beds inside (a favorite place for naps), could have passed for the sort of stage used by Balinese dancers. Windra and I sat on the edge while a brother cut open a durian fruit and a sister-in-law covered her nose with the hem of her voluminous batik skirt. Durian stinks. Windra's round face lit up in a smile. He prefers the spin extolled by durian lovers all across Asia: "It smells of the earth. But it tastes like heaven."

We nibbled on durian and some light pastries made from rice. Windra's little nephew, Ketut Pari Bela, joined us on the platform. He played with a toy airplane. "His hair is like a Holland person," Windra said, pointing at the reddish-blond streak atop the boy's head.

It was the first Balinese hair I had seen that wasn't black -- or gray with age. "His mother did it with some dye made from herbs," Windra explained. "It's just for fun, just for fun."

On Bali, artistic embellishment of the ordinary may extend even to a toddler's hair, and it goes on to marvelous lengths everywhere. Before showing me his family compound, Windra led the way to a couple of major temples, called pura. Pura Tanah Lot juts into the Indian Ocean, and in certain conditions of surf and sunlight almost appears to be floating on the sea, its pagoda tower resembling the prow of a ship. A stirring sight. No wonder the street leading up to the shoreline is flanked by souvenir stands and restaurants.

BEAUTIFUL TEMPLES - It was my first day with Windra, and I thought that Pura Tanah Lot must be the ultimate in Balinese temple aesthetics. I had a lot to learn. How much? Well, for example, that morning I had asked a receptionist at my hotel if she had seen my guide Wayan. I got the shrug that I deserved. All first-born Balinese are named Wayan. The second-born is Made (mad-ee), then Nyoman, then Ketut. And then the naming starts over again, although families tend to be smaller these days and households with two Wayans are becoming quite rare.

And so I would learn that there could be no hierarchy of temple beauty -- each one catches the eye with the careful placement of gates, shrines, pavilions and decorative pools. After Tanah Lot, we went to Pura Taman Ayun -- fully land-based but still perfectly placed amidst the palm trees and adjoining the Mengwi Village canal. Cokorda Munggu, the most notable king in the Mengwi dynasty, built Taman Ayun as a family temple in the 18th Century, although parts of it were constructed far earlier than that.

It was a family temple compound in the days of royalty. Now the public may use it -- a magnificent collection of architectural wonders, towers with pagoda roofs, religious objects -- all surrounded by a tranquil moat and strung together with spacious, open courtyards. As in all temples, household or otherwise, walls surround the most sacred parts, because it is well known that malevolent forces find it hard to negotiate corners.

Taman Ayun also boasts a cock-fighting pavilion with a pit where roosters battle to the death -- or abject exhaustion -- while spectators sit around the sides and make discreet bets. Dutch colonizers banned the sport in the 1920s, and the government of Indonesia -- 90 percent Muslim and therefore anti-gambling -- continues to outlaw the practice. Cockfights are allowed at religious events, however, when at that time they are considered sacrifices to evil spirits. Besides, blood is thought to cleanse the earth.

Cockfighting seems extremely uncharacteristic of the gentle Balinese spirit, but it's a popular ritual and a sure-fire fund-raiser for village and temple improvements, a kind of bingo with feathers.

I would see many more temples, and each one, while sticking to tradition, had a distinct personality. A temple by a lake is a temple of fascinating reflections. A temple on the slope of a mountain might lord it over rice terraces and jungle. A temple by the sea rates a solemn fly-by of frigate birds and dares the raging surf to knock it down.

The town of Ubud has its share of temples and a wonderfully complex palace as well, but its galleries and the workshops outside downtown celebrate individual artistic achievement. There are streets lined with painting and sculpture galleries, whole suburbs devoted to woodcarving shops, others where artisans fashion silver and gold jewelry, still others where the headliners are stone sculpture, cloth weaving or woven basketry.

THE HOTEL AS ART - My wife, Juju, and I stayed at the 15-room Kokokan Hotel in Ubud. It wasn't a hotel as anybody might picture one. Gray stone buildings with carved lintels and thatched roofs climb a hill overlooking a river, a garden and an expanse of rice terraces. Looking over the moss-speckled statuary, the tiled swimming pool, the verandas on the suites -- nowhere does the eye fall on anything but some kind of visual enchantment.

There are lily pads in an enormous urn, huge sculptures lined across one end of the garden pool, a graceful bridge spanning the water, a green canopy of palms and ferns covering it all and rooms enriched with mahogany, bamboo and marble. The two restaurants -- one regional and one Italian -- are equally dazzling.

On the day of our departure, we could scarcely bear to leave the Kokokan Hotel. Next door, we had browsed in a major Ubud museum/gallery that traces the history of Balinese painting and exhibits examples of work from the European artists who "discovered" the island in the 1930s. In the afternoon, could observe painting classes for young people and watch little children practice the complex and demanding movements of Balinese dance.

The Kokokan is hotel as social project. Paying guests, restaurant patrons and art buyers provide some of the funding for a wide range of cultural enterprises. We were told the hotel owner was determined to perpetuate Balinese culture, thereby helping the island keep its unique character forever. "The owner does many things for the community," Windra told us, "but he likes to keep a very low profile. His name is Agung Rai."

THE "GARDEN DESIGNER" - On our last morning at the Kokokan, Juju and I photographed the garden and its statues, while hammers pounded on the tile roof of a new compound that we knew would soon look as old and mossy as the hotel. A young-looking man wearing a batik sarong and a black La Coste crocodile polo shirt came toward us on the bridge.

"I am the garden designer here," he said by way of introduction. "Do you like it?" We assured him that we did. "I'm glad," he said. He offered to take a picture of us, and we posed near one of the chubby and whimsical stone carvings that decorate the bridge rails. The garden designer explained that the compound then a-building would become a community center where people could come to learn music, art, literature and performance. He also said those ancient hotel buildings actually had been constructed within the last decade. We told him they looked and felt as if they belonged to the ancient dynasties. He nodded, then wandered off to inspect his lily pond.

Later on, we came across a book containing reproductions of paintings displayed in the adjacent gallery, the Agung Rai Gallery of Fine Art. On the inside cover, we saw a photograph of Agung Rai himself -- the owner of the hotel, the backer of the gallery, the promoter of Balinese culture, and, of course, the garden designer we had met that morning.

Patrons like Agung Rai encourage artistic innovation, but traditional subjects for paintings and sculpture still fill the galleries: elaborate depictions of cremation ceremonies, funeral processions, marriage rituals, gods and goddesses. Typically, the artists, the studio and the showroom all will be under the same roof or at least in the same village.

TURNING WOOD TO ART - People in search of woodcarving would visit the village of Mas. We dropped in on the Tantra Gallery there, and the chief salesman, Made Rijana, assured us we were in the presence of Mr. Mukuh, the greatest woodcarver in the Ubud area. Mr. Mukuh was that bespectacled gentleman sitting on a pavilion in the courtyard, tapping with his chisel on a block of hibiscus wood. Eventually, he would transform it into his most famous creation -- a depiction of the Rice Goddess. Mr. Mukuh smiled and waved.

Inside the gallery, shelves and pedestals held carvings of many subjects -- birds, people, horses, romantic couples, tangles of vines, fishermen tossing gauzy nets, owners of fighting cocks returning them to their cage. "Each thing was carved from one block of wood," Rijana insisted, "even those delicate nets, and the weaving on the cages." Some of the pieces also demanded thousands of U.S. dollars.

Mr. Mukuh's Rice Goddesses are slender and graceful, some holding an egg, others a flower, some standing on the back of a deer, others emerging from what would appear to be a piece of driftwood, everything exquisitely detailed. Each goddess wore an expression of utter tranquility.

"He uses no patterns or sketches," Rijana said. "Everything is in his head. He imagines it, and then he carves it."

We bought a couple of tiny gecko carvings, little lizards for Christmas stocking stuffers that were about all the budget would allow. Rijana bowed and smiled as if we had purchased the most expensive goddess in the place.

Mr. Mukuh smiled and waved again as we left the Tantra Gallery. Next, we would look at silver necklaces and bracelets in Celuk, the jewelry town. And then we would be driven up into the highlands near Mt. Batu Kau.

LUNCH WITH A VIEW - On the way, we stopped at the restaurant-hotel Pacung and ate in a dining room cantilevered above a steep slope. Windra and the driver catnapped in the van, while Juju and I ate lunch next to a plate glass window overlooking rice terraces par excellence: cascading semi-disks of bright green flowing into the valley with a few picturesque thatched huts (part of the hotel, it turned out) providing just the right element of scale.

We were surrounded by busloads of Australians and Japanese, all eagerly snapping pictures, arranging poses next to the glass or repairing to the open balcony for a better view. Was this artificial? Hotel units next to a rice paddy with cliff house buffet tables steaming above?

In Bali, there is no answer to that. There could be no denying the splendor of those terraces below the dining room and their scenic value. After all, Balinese farmers probably could have surrounded their rice farms with tall shrubs and berms, keeping them out of sight in the way that so many other kinds of plantations are kept out of sight. But rice farmers in Bali seem eager to show off, just as a painter wants people to see the finished canvas.

Art. - Even from the teeming dining room and balconies at the Hotel Pacung, we could witness genuine agriculture on display. Farm workers wearing woven cone hats bent into tasks along the rows, knee-deep in water and rice shoots. The field hands must have known they had an audience, but rain clouds were forming and they were forced to hurry. Not one of them waved.

--------------------------------------------------------- Bali factoids - Population of Bali: 3 million.

Sacred tree: The banyan. Cows are not sacred, despite the prominence of Hinduism, but Bali does have a caste system.

Complicated plumbing: Rice paddies get water from lakes and rivers through a system of weirs and canals.

Waste not: Temple offerings of fruit and rice cakes are eaten by worshipers after they determine that the gods have had their fill.

Please come in: Entrances to large temples take the form of an elaborately decorated gate split in two -- a sign of welcome.

Most graceful dance: The legong combines intricate movements and spectacular costume with a traditional (and long) story.

Tequila of the South Pacific: A mixture of rice wine, palm gin and palm toddy, the arak packs a notorious punch called "the arak attack."

Monkey business: The primates played a key role in an important legend, so several sanctuaries have been set aside for them. A major thoroughfare in Ubud is named Monkey Forest Road.

--------------------------------------------------------- Bali: Q&A The who, what, where, when -- and why?

Can Bali be done as a quick trip from the U.S.? If that were anywhere near true, Florida would revert to swamp and the streets of Scottsdale would fill with tumbleweed. Bali absolutely fits the profile of an ideal warm-weather paradise. Unfortunately, it's far, far away. First, get to LAX or SFO - that's a 4-hour jaunt by air from the Midwest.

A flight from the West Coast to Asia usually takes 14 more hours, and typically the plane gasses up and reloads in an intermediate stop like Hong Kong, Seoul or Taipei . . . .Add 3 1/2 hours or so to get from there to Singapore or Jakarta, and then, finally, make the connection to Denpasar, Bali, which requires 2 more hours aloft.

From Chicago, that's nearly 24 hours of flying, not to mention the time spent in airports during layovers. Besides that, you lose a day after crossing the international date line. I got to see a lot of in-flight movies, but the urge to buy a weekend cottage or a winter retreat in Bali was easy to resist.

Given that, is it worth going at all? You bet. There is no place in the world quite like it. The tropical climate and just the right amount of rain result in a lush green landscape, a landscape enhanced by all the people who have fashioned curving rice terraces on mountain slopes and beautiful Hindu temples everywhere. You'll encounter grace, artistry and friendliness at every turn.

Friendliness? Isn't Bali part of Indonesia, a country that generates gruesome headlines all the time? Yes, it is, but Bali remains blessedly isolated from the religious, ethnic and political warfare that render some other parts of that sprawling country unbearable. Bali is a unique island in a nation of islands, and the roughest Christian/Muslim/separatist conflicts take place hundreds of miles away. They cannot spread easily. For example, the rampaging Dayaks in Borneo (600 miles from Bali as the crow flies) have armed themselves with spears and knives, not sophisticated missiles.

Harmony prevails in Bali, and the government in Jakarta -- troubled as it might be -- wants to keep it that way. Why? Because a peaceful Bali would remain the superstar of Indonesia's tourism industry, boosting the national economy. During my visit in February, I felt no tension at all.

So what are the dangers? Malaria isn't considered a problem, but do use a bug spray. And slather on the sunblock. Avoid going barefoot away from the beaches: Parasites, you know.

What's there to see? Almost every household has a temple, or at least an altar, and most temples are works of art. Public temples, originally built for royalty, dazzle with even more splendor, and they seem to rise up every few miles. Plus, the interior landscape includes mountains, beautiful lakes, artist and artisan-rich villages, monkey jungles and those famous terraced rice fields.

Could I go and just chill out? Do a little surfing? Sunbathe? Hit the nightclubs? Sure. The surf pounds Kuta and Jimbaron beaches with Maui-level ferocity, and Kuta at night is so lively that you may need a lengthy beach snooze the next day to recover. For that, the tranquil shore on the east side of Bali is ideal. Denpasar, the 100,000-population capital, teems with traffic and commerce like a little Bangkok. Go there if you need a jolt of city life. Kuta has that same kind of buzz.

Speaking of commerce, is a Bali trip going to cost a bundle? Not at all. Shop around for package deals arranged by travel agencies and such Asian carriers as Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific or China Airlines. A week in a two-star hotel, including airfare, might cost as little as $900 per person. And, remember, even the low-end hotels and popular home-stay establishments feature Balinese good taste and hospitality.

Prices in the shops can be amazing too. A fine, hand-woven batik shirt or blouse costs as little as $29. A nice block-printed sport shirt might run you about $8. Spend $8 in a good Ubud restaurant and you'll likely get more food than any sensible person could eat.

What if I want to stay at a Four Seasons or an Aman resort? Nearly all the big, luxury, international properties are represented in Bali. They charge big, luxury, international bucks. Asian recession? Never heard of it.

So I should shop around for deals before I leave and then shop around for stuff once I get there? Exactly. Look for paintings, wood carvings, stone carvings, tropical clothing, hand-wrought silver jewelry and tightly woven baskets. Inland, away from the 4-star beach resorts, you may bargain with merchants and street peddlers. Ubud is a shopper's dream, full of fine-art galleries, jewelers, clothing stores and a huge central market. Farther away, you'll find whole neighborhoods each specializing in a single craft. As of this writing, $1 U.S. buys 9,862 Indonesian rupiahs. And those rupiahs buy a lot.

What should I wear? Next to nothing most of the time, but, when visiting temples, men should wear long pants or a sarong (available for rent at most temples) before going inside. Women also should dress with decorum before visiting religious sites. Even in the October-March rainy season, downpours seldom last all day, and 70- to 80-degree temperatures prevail year-round. You may need a sweater or light jacket up in the mountains. Fight the intense sunshine with a hat.

By Robert Cross, Tribune staff reporter

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