 1 Malay Consular Info sheet
 2 Malaysia intro
 3 Peninsular Malaysia travel info
 4 South Malaysia - Johor Bahru
 5 The West Coast MELAKA
 6 The West Coast SEREMBAN
 7 The West Coast IPOH
 8 The West Coast KUALA KANGSAR
 9 The West Coast TAIPING
 10 The East Coast
 11 Kuala Lumpur (KUL) guides, travel info
 12 Kuala Lumpur history
 13 KUL history and news
 14 KUL Batu Caves and Taipusam Indan festval
 15 KUL Petronas Towers
 16 KUL monorail 'PUTRA'
 17 Hard Rock Cafe hangout


\1 Malay Consular Info sheet

Malaysia is a federal parliamentary democracy with a constitutional monarch. Its population of approx 22.7 million is ethnically divided into Malay (47%), Chinese (26%), Indian (7%), other indigenous (10%), and other ethnic groups (10%). Islam is the national religion. Bahasa Malaysia is the official language although English is widely spoken. The capital city is Kuala Lumpur.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: A passport valid for at least six months is required to enter Malaysia. American citizens do not need a visa for a pleasure or business trip if their stay in Malaysia is 90 days or less. For more info on entry requirements, contact the Embassy of Malaysia, 2401 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008, telephone: (212) 328-2700, or the Malaysian Consulates in New York, telephone (202) 328-2700, or LAX, telephone (213) 892-1238. See also the Malaysian Government home page on the Internet at http://www.jaring.my. Overseas inquiries should be made at the nearest Malaysian embassy or consulate.

DUAL NATIONALITY: Malaysia does not recognize dual nationality. Adult U.S. citizens who are also Malaysian citizens could experience close scrutiny by Malaysian immigration officials when entering or departing Malaysia on Malaysian passports. The United States requires all U.S. citizens to enter and depart the U.S. on U.S. passports. U.S. visas cannot be issued to dual citizen Americans. Dual nationals may be subject to Malaysian laws that impose special obligations on Malaysian citizens.

CRIME INFORMATION: Violent crime, particularly against foreigners, is not common in Malaysia. Foreigners are often the target of pickpocketing, burglaries, automobile break-ins and purse snatchings referred to as "snatch-thefts," in which the assailants on motorcycles or in cars snatch purses, cell phones, and other items from pedestrians and speed off. Pedestrians have occasionally been injured when dragged to the ground during these incidents. Pickpocketing is common in crowded public places. Credit card fraud is a prevalent and growing crime problem.

Use of credit cards should be limited to major international establishments such as large hotels, and credit card numbers should be closely safeguarded at all times. Theft of items from parked vehicles occurs frequently, and items that are likely to be desirable to thieves should be removed from vehicles or placed out of sight. The loss or theft abroad of U.S. passports should be reported immediately to the local police and U.S. Embassy. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlet A Safe Trip Abroad for ways to promote a more trouble-free journey. The pamphlet is available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government printing office, Washington, D.C. 20402, via the Internet at http://www.access.gpo.gov/su_docs, or via the Bureau of consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov.

MEDICAL FACILITIES: Medical facilities and services are adequate in the larger cities where Western-trained doctors can easily be found. The U.S. Embassy can also provide a list of English-speaking doctors and hospitals upon request. Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization and/or medical evacuation to the United States can cost thousands of dollars or more. Doctors and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services although major credit cards are acceptable.

MEDICAL INSURANCE: U.S. medical insurance is not always valid outside the United States. U.S. Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas may face extreme difficulties. Check with your own insurance company to confirm whether your policy applies overseas, including provision for medical evacuation. Ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas hospital or doctor or whether you will be reimbursed later for expenses you incur. Some insurance policies also include overage for psychiatric treatment and for disposition of remains in the event of death. Useful information on medical emergencies abroad is provided in the Department of States Bureau of Consular Affairs brochure Medical Information for Americans Traveling Abroad available via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at http://travel.state.gov.

OTHER HEALTH INFORMATION: Information on other health precautions may be obtained from the Centers of Disease Control and Preventions hotline for international travelers at telephone: 1-877-FYI_TRIP (1-877-394-8747), fax 1-888-CDC-FAXX (1-888-232-3299), or the Internet site at http://www.cdc.gov.

TRAFFIC SAFETY AND ROAD CONDITIONS: While in a foreign country, U.S. citizens may encounter road conditions that differ significantly from those in the United States. The information below concerning Malaysia is provided for general reference only, and may not be totally accurate in a particular location or circumstance. Safety of public transportation: Good Urban road conditions/maintenance: Good Rural road conditions/maintenance: Good Availability of Roadside Assistance: Good

Malaysian Road Safety: Traffic patterns in Malaysia move on the left. Pedestrians are reminded to look carefully in all directions when crossing roads. Motorcyclists attempt to circumvent traffic blockage by weaving through vehicles and pedestrians. Traffic is heavy during the morning and afternoon rush-hours and slows down considerably when it rains. Bottlenecks are common sights in Kuala Lumpur. Development of the infrastructure has not kept pace with the proliferation of motorized vehicles. Multi-laned highways often merge into narrow two-lane roads in the center of town and cause added congestion. Many streets are narrow and winding. Towns are often filled beyond capacity. Taxis are metered but some drivers charge a rate much higher than the metered rate during peak hours, when it is raining, or when the passengers destination is to or through a heavily congested area.

A well-maintained, heavily congested, divided highway with two separate lanes runs through Malaysia from Singapore to the Thai border. Malaysias west coast also has well-developed paved roads between major cities. These two-lane highways are usually congested. Serious accidents can occur from collisions and from drivers who lose control of their vehicles when driving too fast in hilly regions.

For specific information concerning Malaysian drivers permits, vehicle inspection, road tax and mandatory insurance, contact the Malaysian National Tourist Organization offices in New York via the Internet at http://www.visitmalaysia.com/ or the Malaysian Government home page via the Internet at http://www.jaring.my.

AVIATION OVERSIGHT: The U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has assessed the Government of Malaysias Civil Aviation authority as Category 1 - in compliance with international aviation safety standards for oversight of Malaysias air carrier operations. For further information, travelers may contact the Department of Transportation telephone number within the U.S. at 1-800-322-7873, or visit the FAA Internet home page at http://www.faa.gov/avr/iasa/index.htm. The U.S. Department of Defense (DOD) separately assesses some foreign air carriers for suitability as official providers of air services. For information regarding the DOD policy on specific carriers, travelers may contact DOD at telephone number (618) 256-480l.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS: Malaysias customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning temporary importation into or export from Malaysia of items such as firearms, religious materials, antiquities, medications, business equipment, currency, ivory, and other items. It is advisable to contact the Embassy of Malaysia in Washington or one of Malaysias consulates in the United States for specific information regarding customs requirements.

Customs officials encourage the use of an ATA (Admission Temporaire/Temporary Admission) carnet for the temporary admission of professional equipment, commercial samples, and/or goods for exhibitions and fair purposes. ATA Carnet Headquarters, located at the U.S. Council for International Business, 1212 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, issues and guarantees the ATA carnet in the United States. For additional information call (212)354-4480; send an e-mail to atacarnet@uscib.org, or visit http://www.uscib.org for details.

CRIMINAL PENALTIES: While in a foreign country, a U.S. citizen is subject to that countrys laws and regulations, which sometimes differ significantly from those in the United States and do not afford the protections available to the individual under U.S. law. Penalties for breaking the law can be more severe than in the United States for similar offenses. Persons violating the law, even unknowingly, may be expelled, arrested or imprisoned. The Malaysian criminal code includes a provision for a sentence of caning for certain white collar crimes, including criminal misappropriation, criminal breach of trust and cheating.

\2 Malaysia intro

Consists of two tracts of territory that are separated by 400 miles of ocean. The western portion, known as Penin-sular Malaysia, starts below Thailand and extends along the SE tip of Asia. The eastern portion, known as East Malaysia, occupies the northern coast of the island of Borneo, which otherwise belongs to Indonesia. Peninsular Malaysia is separated from East Malaysia by a 400 mile expanse of the South China Sea. With an area of 127,316 sq mi, Malaysia is slightly larger than New Mexico.

Most of western Malaysia is covered with tropical jungle, as is the central mountain range that projects north-south along the peninsula. The western coast is marshy; the eastern is sandy. Eastern Malaysia consists of a wide, swampy coastal plain with interior jungles and mts.

KUL is the capital of Malaysia. Other cities are Penang, Ipoh, Malacca, and Johore. Pop is 20,932,901. Among Malaysia's ethnic groups, Malay and indigenous peoples make up 58% of the pop; Chinese, 26%; Indian, 7%. Life expectancy at birth is 67.4 yrs males and 73.6 for fem.

Malay is the official lang. Other lang are Eng, Chinese dialects, and Indian. Literacy rate in Malaysia is 83%

Religions include Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Christianity, among others. Under Malaysia's law all Malays are Muslim. Christians, 5% of the pop, are forbidden by law to evangelize Muslims. They may preach only to Indians, Eurasians, Chinese, and such tribal peoples as the Iban and the Sengois.

The national monetary unit is the ringgit.

During the past 2,000 years the Malayan Peninsula has played a key role in maritime trade, owing to both its location and diverse natural resources. As maritime traffic flourished among Middle Eastern, Indian, and Chinese ports, Malay ships grew to have a key part. Malay ports became key transshipment centers.

A Portuguese fleet conquered Malacca in 1511, setting in motion a European expansion in SE Asia. The Dutch later ousted the Portuguese and were in turn supplanted by the British.

In 1826 the British settlements of Malacca, Penang, and Singapore were combined to form the Colony of the Straits Settlements. During British control, a system of public admin was set up and large-scale rubber and tin prod went forward.

The Japanese invaded the territory in 1942 during WW II and occupied it until their defeat in 1945. Strong popular sentiment for independence surged during and after the war. Malaya became independent in 1957. In 1963 the Federation of Malaysia was formed by the union of Malaya, the former British Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawak.

Singapore broke away in 1965 to end tensions between Chinese, who were the majority in Singapore, and Malays, who controlled the Malaysian central govt.

--------------------------------------------------------- Malaysia - mlazh , independent federation (1995 est. pop. 19,724,000), 128,430 sq mi (332,633 sq km), SE Asia. The official capital and the largest city is KUL. A new admin capital, Putrajaya, is expected to be completed by 2012.

Land and People - Malaysia consists of two parts: West Malaysia, also called Peninsular Malaysia or Malaya (1990 est. pop. 14,400,000), 50,700 sq mi (131,313 sq km), on the Malay Peninsula and coextensive with the former Federation of Malaya, comprising the states of Perlis, Kedah, Pinang, Perak, Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, Melaka (Malacca), and Johor, and one federal territory, Wilayah Persekutuan, which is coextensive with the city of Kuala Lumpur.

East Malaysia (1990 est. pop. 3,410,000), 77,730 sq mi (201,320 sq km), comprising the states of Sabah and Sarawak (the former British colonies of North Borneo and NW Borneo) on the island of Borneo and one federal terr, comprising the island of Labuan. The two parts are separated by c.400 mi (640 km) of the South China Sea.

West Malaysia is bordered on the north by Thailand, on the east by the South China Sea, on the south by Singapore (separated by the narrow Johore Strait), and on the west by the Strait of Malacca and the Andaman Sea.

East Malaysia is bordered on the north by the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea, on the east by the Celebes Sea, and on the south and west by Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo). Along the coast within Sarawak is the independent nation of Brunei.

Both East and West Malaysia have mountainous interiors and coastal plains. The highest point is Mt. Kinabalu (13,455 ft/4,101 m) in Sabah. The longest of the country's many rivers are the Rajang (c.350 mi/560 km) in Sarawak, the Kinabatangan (c.350 mi/560 km) in Sabah, and the Pahang (c.200 mi/320 km) in West Malaysia. Lying close to the equator, Malaysia has a tropical rainy climate. Over two thirds of the land area is forested.

Although it makes up only 31% of the country's area, West Malaysia has more than 80% of its people. Of the total population, most of which is concentrated on the west coast, almost 60% are of Malay or indigenous descent, over 25% are Chinese, and some 10% are Indian or Pakistani. In West Malaysia, Malays comprise about one half of the population, Chinese one third, and Indians and Pakistanis one tenth. In East Malaysia, the two largest groups are the Chinese and the Ibans (Sea Dayaks), an indigenous people, who together make up about three fifths of the total. Conflict between the ethnic groups, particularly between Malays and Chinese, has played a large role in Malaysian history.

Nearly all of the Malays are Muslims, and Islam is the national religion. The majority of Chinese are Buddhists, and the majority of Indians are Hindu. The official language is Bahasa Malaysia (Malay), although English is used in the legal system. Chinese (largely Mandarin), Tamil, and regional ethnic languages and dialects are also widely spoken. Malaysia's institutions of higher education include the Univ. of Malaya in Kuala Lumpur, the Univ. of Malaysia and the International Islamic Univ., both in Selangor, the Technological Univ. of Malaysia in Johor Bahru, and the Multimedia University in Cyberjaya.

Economy Malaysia has one of the highest standards of living in SE Asia, largely because of its expanding industrial sector, which propelled the country to an 8% to 9% yearly growth rate from 1987 to 1997. Growth contracted during the 1997-98 Asian financial crisis, and the government was forced to cut spending and defer several large infrastructure projects. Unemployment and interest rates rose, and thousands of foreign workers, many of them from Indonesia, were forced to leave the country. The economy began to improve in 1999.

Malaysia is a large producer of rubber and tin; other important industries include palm-oil, crude petroleum and petroleum products, electronics, logging, and textiles. Since the late 1980s, the government has moved to privatize large industries that had been under state control, and foreign investment in manufacturing has increased significantly. Pinang city is the chief port. Subsistence agriculture remains the basis of livelihood for about 20% of Malaysians and agriculture provides about 15% of GDP. Rice is the staple food, while fish supply most of the protein. Industry is largely concentrated in West Malaysia. The major cities on the Malay Peninsula are connected by railroads with Singapore, and an extensive road network covers the west coast. The main trading partners are Japan, the United States, and Singapore.

Govt - Malaysia is a federal constitutional monarchy with parliamentary democracy. The sovereign (the Yang di-Pertuan Agong) is elected every five years by and from the nine hereditary rulers of Perlis, Kedah, Perak, Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan, and Johor. The prime minister must be a member and have the confidence of the house of representatives (Dewan Ra'ayat). The cabinet is chosen by the prime minister with the consent of the sovereign. The parliament has two chambers. The house consists of 192 members, all elected by popular vote in single-member districts. The house sits for a maximum of five years but may be dissolved by the sovereign. The senate (Dewan Negara) consists of 69 members chosen for six-year terms; each state legislature elects two and the sovereign appoints the remaining 43. There is a high court for each half of Malaysia and a supreme court.

HistoryForeign Influence and Settlement (For early history of West Malaysia, see Malay Peninsula; for history of East Malaysia, see Sabah and Sarawak.) When the Portuguese captured Malacca (1511), its sultan fled first to Pahang and then to Johor and the Riau Archipelago. One of his sons became the first sultan of Perak. From both Johor and Aceh in Sumatra unsuccessful attacks were made on Malacca. Aceh and Johor also fought each other. The main issue in these struggles was control of trade through the Strait of Malacca. Kedah, Kelantan, and Terengganu, north of Malacca, became nominal subjects of Siam.

In the early 17th cent. the Dutch established trading bases in Southeast Asia. By 1619 they had established themselves in Batavia (Jakarta), and in 1641, allied with Johor, they captured Malacca after a six-month siege. Another power entered the complicated Malayan picture in the late 17th cent. when the Bugis from Sulawesi, a Malay people economically pressured by the Dutch, began settling in the area of Selangor on the west coast of the peninsula, where they traded in tin. The Bugis captured Johor and Riau in 1721 and, with a few interruptions, maintained control there for about a century, although the Johor sultanate was permitted to remain. The Bugis were also active in Perak and Kedah. Earlier, in the 15th and 16th cent., another Malay people, the Minangkabaus from Sumatra, had peacefully settled inland from Malacca. Their settlements eventually became the state of Negeri Sembilan.

The British role on the peninsula began in 1786, when Francis Light of the British East India Company, searching for a site for trade and a naval base, obtained the cession of the island of Pinang from the sultan of Kedah. In 1791 the British agreed to make annual payments to the sultan, and in 1800 the latter ceded Province Wellesley on the mainland. In 1819 the British founded Singapore, and in 1824 they formally (actual control had been exercised since 1795) acquired Malacca from the Dutch. A joint administration was formed for Pinang, Malacca, and Singapore, which became known as the Straits Settlements.

During this period Siam was asserting its influence southward on the peninsula. In 1816, Siam forced Kedah to invade Perak and made Perak acknowledge Siamese suzerainty. In 1821, Siam invaded Kedah and exiled the sultan. The Anglo-Siamese treaty of 1821 recognized Siamese control of Kedah but left the status of Perak, Kelantan, and Terengganu ambiguous. In 1841 the sultan of Kedah was restored, but Perlis was carved out of the territory of Kedah and put under Siamese protection.

British Involvement Later in the 19th cent. a number of events led Great Britain to play a more direct part in the affairs of the peninsula. There was conflict between Chinese settlers, who worked in the tin mines, and Malays; there were civil wars among the Malays; and there was an increase in piracy in the western part of the peninsula. Merchants asked the British to restore order. The British were also concerned that Dutch, French, and German interest in the area was increasing. As a result, treaties were made with Perak, Selangor, Pahang, and the components of what became (1895) Negeri Sembilan. In each state a British "resident was installed to advise the sultan (who received a stipend) and to supervise administration. The Pangkor Treaty of 1874 with Perak served as a model for subsequent treaties.

In 1896 the four states were grouped together as the Federated Malay States with a British resident general. Johor, which had signed a treaty of alliance with Britain in 1885, accepted a British adviser in 1914. British control of the four remaining Malayan states was acquired in 1909, when, by treaty, Siam relinquished its claims to sovereignty over Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis, and Terengganu. These four, along with Johor, became known as the Unfederated Malay States.

In the latter half of the 19th cent. Malaya's economy assumed many of the major aspects of its present character. The output of tin, which had been mined for centuries, increased greatly with the utilization of modern methods. Rubber trees were introduced (Indian laborers were imported to work the rubber plantations), and Malaya became a leading rubber producer. Malaya's economic character, as well as its geographic position, gave it great strategic importance, and the peninsula was quickly overrun by the Japs at the start of WW II and held by them for the duration of the war. The British, assuming that the attack would come from sea, had built their fortifications accordingly, but a land attack quickly drove them from the island. Malaya's Chinese population received particularly harsh treatment during the Japanese occupation.

When the British returned after WW II they arranged (1946) a centralized colony, called the Malayan Union, comprising all their peninsula possessions. Influential Malays vehemently opposed the new org; they feared that the admission of the large Chinese and Indian populations of Pinang and Malacca to Malayan citizenship would end the special position Malays had always enjoyed, and they were unwilling to surrender the political power they enjoyed within the individual sultanates. The British backed down and established in place of the Union the Federation of Malaya (1948) headed by a British high commissioner. The Federation was an expansion of the former Federated Malay States. Pinang and Malacca became members in addition to the nine Malay states, but there was no common citizenship. In that same year a Communist insurrection began that was to last more than a decade. The Communist guerrillas, largely recruited from among the Chinese population, employed terrorist tactics. In combating the uprising the British resettled nearly 500,000 Chinese. "The Emergency, as it was called, was declared ended in 1960, although outbreaks of terrorism have continued sporadically.

Independence and the Birth of Modern Malaysia - The Communist insurrection had the positive effect of spurring the movement for Malayan independence, and in 1957 the federation became an independent state within the Commonwealth of Nations and was admitted to the United Nations. The first prime minister was Tunku (Prince) Abdul Rahman, the leader of the Alliance Party, a loose coalition of Malay, Chinese, and Indian parties. The constitution guaranteed special privileges for Malays. In 1963 Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawak were added to the federation, creating the Federation of Malaysia. Since Singapore has a large Chinese population, the latter two states were included to maintain a non-Chinese majority. Brunei was also included in the plan but declined to join. Malaysia retained Malaya's place in the United Nations and the Commonwealth, and in 1967 it became one of the founding members of the Assoc of SE Asian Nations (ASEAN).

The new state was immediately confronted with the hostility of Indonesia, which described the federation as a British imperialist subterfuge and waged an undeclared war against it. In the struggle Malaysia received military aid from Great Britain and other Commonwealth nations. Hostilities continued until President Sukarno's fall from power in Indonesia (1965). Nonviolent opposition came from the Philippines, which claimed ownership of Sabah until early in 1978.

The merger with Singapore did not work out satisfactorily. Friction developed between Malay leaders and Singapore's prime minister, Lee Kuan Yew, who had worked to improve the position of the Chinese minority within the Malaysian Federation. In 1965, Singapore peacefully seceded from Malaysia.

Intercommunal tension continued, however, between Chinese and Malays, and led in 1969 to serious violence and a 22-month suspension of parliament. Since then, political balance has been maintained by a multiethnic National Front coalition, led since 1981 by Prime Minister Mahathir bin Mohamad, of the United Malays National Org (UMNO). Prime Minister Mahathir led the National Front parties to reelection victories in 1982, 1986, and 1990. The largest opposition groups are the Chinese-dominated Democratic Action party (DAP) and the Islamic party of Malaysia (PAS). Mahathir's govt has been criticized for repression of Chinese and Indian minorities. A formal peace treaty between the Malay Communist party (MCP) and the Kuala Lumpur govt was signed in 1989.

In 1995 the National Front again triumphed at the polls, winning in a landslide. The Petronas Twin Towers, the world's tallest building, opened in Kuala Lumpur in 1997; for Malaysia its construction was a proud symbol of the nation's economic success. Like several of its neighbors, Malaysia suffered a recession in 1997-98; however, unlike those that accepted financial aid from the International Monetary Fund, Malaysia took matters into its own hands. In Sept., 1998, it discontinued trading in its currency and imposed sweeping controls on its capital markets, particularly on investment from overseas; by mid-1999, the economy showed signs of improving.

Also in Sept., 1998, Mahathir dismissed his heir apparent, Anwar Ibrahim, who held the posts of deputy prime minister and finance minister. Anwar was found guilty of corruption charges in Apr., 1999, and sentenced to six years in prison, setting off unusual public protests. In the Nov 99, elections the National Front again won a resounding victory, but big gains were made by the PAS, which increased its seats in parliament to 27 from eight. A party formed by Ibrahim's supporters and led by his wife did poorly.

Located in the heart of SE Asia, slightly north of the Equator, Malaysia is one of the most pleasant, hassle-free countries to visit in SE Asia. Several decades of sustained economic growth and political stability have made it one of the most buoyant and wealthy countries in the region, and although political power (Malay) and economic clout (Chinese) are still traditionally divided along racial lines, Malaysia has moved towards a pluralist culture based on a vibrant and interesting fusion of Malay, Chinese, Indian and indigenous cultures and customs.

Malaysia is divided into two main regions: Peninsular Malaysia, which lies just south of Thailand, and East Malaysia, which can be found north of Indonesia on the island of Borneo. These two regions are divided into thirteen states and federal territories. Although East Malaysia occupies the larger portion of Malaysia's total area, it is primarily comprised of undeveloped land and jungles. Approx 80% of the nation's total population occupies the main peninsula.

With a diverse and natural scenery in her possession, Malaysia offers visitors a wide variety of beaches, mountain parks and unique slices of her tropical paradise.

Most visitors to Malaysia stick to the Peninsula, where the headlong rush of KUL is offset by the colonially soothing Cameron Highlands hill station or the hedonistic torpor of Langkawi. Far fewer make it to Sarawak or Sabah, on the island of East Malaysia, with their spectacular wildlife, longhouses and the awe-inspiring Mount Kinabalu.

Hotels: Bintang Warisan Hotel 68 Jln Bukit Bintang Centra Hotel & Appartments Kuala Lumpur 161D, Jalan Ampamg Century Kuala Lumpur Hotel 17-21 Jln Bukit Bintang China Town Inn 52-54 Jln Petaling Crown Priness Kuala Lumpur City Square Centre Jln Tun Razak Crown Regency Service Apartments 12 Jln P. Ramlee Dynasty Hotel Kuala Lumpur 218 Jln Ipoh Grand Centrepoint Kuala Lumpur 316 Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman Grand Seasons Hotel 72 Jalan Pahang Hilton Kuala Lumpur Jalan Sultan Ismail Hotel Capitol Jln Bulan (off Jln Bukit Bintang) Hotel Fortuna 87 Jln Berangan Hotel Furama Kompleks Selangor, Jalan Sultan Hotel Grand Continental Jln Raja Laut Hotel Grand Olympic Jalan Hang Jebat Hotel Istana 73 Jln Raja Chulan Hotel Malaya Kuala Lumpur 162-164 Jln Hang Lekir KL Lodge Hotel Jln Sultan Ismail Kowloon Hotel 142-146 Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman Melia Kuala Lumpur 16 Jln Imbi MiCasa Hotel Apartments 368-B Jalan Tun Razak Mingcourt Vista Hotel Kuala Lumpur Jln Ampang Park Plaza International Kuala Lumpur 138 Jln Ampang ParkRoyal Kuala Lumpur Jln Sultan Ismail Perhentian Island Resort 22nd Menara Promet Jln Sultan Ismail Quality Hotel City Centre Jln Raja Laut, P.O. Box 11586 Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel GPO Box 13357 Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur 11 Jln Sultan Ismail Stanford Hotel Kuala Lumpur 449 Jln Tuanku Abdul Rahman SuCasa Service Apartments 222 Jln Ampang Sungei Wang Hotel 74-76 Jalan Bukit Bintang Swiss Inn 62 Jln Sultan The Federal Kuala Lumpur 35 Jln Bukit Bintang The Plaza Hotel Jln Raja Laut Vistana Hotel Kuala Lumpur Level 5A, J W Marriott Hotel Kuala Lumpur 183 Jln Bukit Bintang Wira Hotel Kuala Lumpur 123 Jln Thamboosamy

\3 Peninsular Malaysia travel info

Most visitors to Malaysia stick to the Peninsula, where the insane headlong rush of Kuala Lumpur is offset by the colonially soothing Cameron Highlands hill station or the hedonistic torpor of Langkawi. Far fewer make it to Sarawak or Sabah, on the island of East Malaysia, with their spectacular wildlife, longhouses and the awe-inspiring Mt Kinabalu.

Malaysia is divided into two distinct parts: Peninsular Malaysia and the East Malaysian provinces of Sabah and Sarawak in North Borneo. The two regions are 650km (403mi) apart, separated by the South China Sea. Peninsular Malaysia shares borders with Thailand and Singapore. Sabah and Sarawak border Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo), and Sarawak surrounds the tiny enclave of Brunei. The Andaman Sea is on the west coast of the peninsula. The east coast of the peninsula, Sabah and Sarawak all adjoin the South China Sea.

Peninsular Malaysia accounts for 40% of the country's land mass. Several mountain ranges run north-south along the spine of the peninsula. There is a wide, fertile plain on the west coast, and a narrow coastal plain on the east. Sabah and Sarawak are covered by dense jungles and have large river systems. Mt Kinabalu (4101m/13,450ft) in Sabah is one of the highest peaks in South-East Asia.

More than 60% of the country is still rainforest, but a government plan to build a huge hydroelectric dam in Sarawak is expected to decimate 27,600ha (69,000ac) of forest, which does not augur well for the future. There are 8000 species of flowering plants in Peninsular Malaysia alone, including 2000 tree species, 800 different orchids and 200 types of palm. Fauna includes elephants, rhinos, tigers, leopards, tapirs, sun bears, orang-utans and gibbons. East Malaysia has one of the most abundant and varied bird populations in the world.

Malaysia is hot and humid all year. Temperatures are usually between 20-30C (68-86F); humidity is usually 90%. The region has a monsoonal climate, but only the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia has a real rainy season. The wettes  season on the west coast of the peninsula is between September and December; on the east coast and in Sabah and Sarawak it's between October and February. Rain, when it comes, generally interrupts the sunshine only briefly; most of it falls in short, strong bursts.

History Aboriginal Malays (Orang Asli) began moving down the Malay peninsula from south-western China about 10,000 years ago. The peninsula came under the rule of the Cambodian-based Funan, the Sumatran-based Srivijaya and the Java-based Majapahit empires, before the Chinese arrived in Melaka in 1405. Islam arrived in Melaka at about the same time and spread rapidly. Melaka's wealth soon attracted European powers, and the Portuguese took control in 1511, followed by the Dutch in 1641. The British established a thriving port in Penang in 1786 and took over Melaka in 1795.

The British colonised the interior of the peninsula when tin was discovered. East Malaysia came into British hands via the adventurer Charles Brooke (who was made Rajah of Sarawak in 1841 after suppressing a revolt against the Sultan of Brunei) and the North Borneo Company (which administered Sabah from 1882). Britain took formal control of both Sabah and Sarawak after WW II. The indigenous labour supply was insufficient for the needs of the developing rubber and tin industries, so the British brought large numbers of Indians into the country, altering the peninsula's racial mix.

The Japanese overran Maaaya in WW II. Communist guerrillas, who fought the Japanese throughout the occupation, began an armed struggle against British rule in 1948 and Malaya achieved independence in 1957. Sabah, Sarawak and Singapore combined with Malaya to establish Malaysia in 1963, but two years later Singapore withdrew from the confederation. The formation of Malaysia was opposed by both the Philippines and Indonesia, each having territorial claims on East Malaysia. Tension rose in 1963 during the `Confrontation' with Indonesia. Indonesian troops crossed Malaysia's borders but were repelled by Malaysian and Commonwealth forces. In 1969, violent riots broke out between Malays and Chinese, though the country's racial groups have since lived in relative peace together. The United Malays National Organisation (UMNO) has been in power since 1974. Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Mohamad, who is keen to exert his influence on the world stage as a pan-Asian leader, presided over a booming
economy until 1997, when tumbling Asian currencies dragged the ringgit down with them.

In September 1998 the country hosted the Commonwealth Games but the public relations aspect of the competition came unstuck when students and citizens protested against the unfair sacking and later imprisonment of deputy Prime Minister, Anwar Ibrahim. Continuing street protests,calling for the resignation of Dr Matahir Mohamad, have unsettled Malayasia's reputation as one of the most politically stable of South-East Asian countries.

Malaysia is a multicultural society, with Malays, Chinese and Indians living side by side. The Malays are the largest community. They are Muslims, speak Bahasa and are largely responsible for the political fortunes of the country. The Chinese comprise about a third of the population. They are Buddhists and Taoists, speak Hokkein, Hakka and Cantonese, and are dominant in the business community. The Indians account for about 10% of the population. They are mainly Hindu Tamils from southern India, they speak Tamil, Malayalam, and some Hindi, and live mainly in the larger towns on the west coast of the peninsula. There is also a sizeable Sikh community. Eurasians and indigenous tribes make up the remaining population. Despite Bahasa Malaysia being the official language, when members of these different communities talk to each other, they generally speak English, which was recently reinstated as the language of instruction in tertiary education.

The main indigenous tribe is the Iban of Sarawak, who number 395,000. They are largely longhouse dwellers and live along the Rejang and Baram rivers. The Bidayuh (107,000) are concentrated on Sarawak's Skrang River. The Orang Asli (80,000) live in small scattered groups in Peninsular Malaysia. Traditionally nomadic agriculturalists, many have been absorbed into modern Malaysia.

Malaysian music is heavily influenced by Chinese and Islamic forms. The music is based largely around the gendang (drum), but includes percussion instruments (some made of shells), flutes, trumpets and gongs. The country has a strong tradition of dance and dance dramas, some of Thai, Indian and Portuguese origin. Other artisticfforms include wayang kulit (shadow-puppets), silat (a stylised martial art) and crafts such as batik, weaving and silver and brasswork.

It's not easy to find authentic Malay food in Malaysian restaurants, though you can take your pick of Chinese, Nyonya (a local variation on Chinese and Malay food - Chinese ingredients, local spices), Indian, Indonesian or (sometimes) Western cuisines. Satays (meat kebabs in spicy peanut sauce) are a Malaysian creation and they're found everywhere. Other dishes include fried soybean curd in peanut sauce, sour tamarind fish curry, fiery curry prawns and spiced curried meat in coconut marinade. Muslim Indian dishes have developed a distinctly Malaysian style. The variety of wonderful tropical fruits and fruit juices available is huge, and strange sweet concoctions include cendol (sugar syrup, coconut milk and green noodles) and ais kacang (beans and jellies topped with shaved ice, syrups and condensed milk).

The major Islamic events are connected with Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. The major Malaysian festival is Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of Ramadan with three days of joyful celebrations. Hari Raya Haji marks the successful completion of the hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) with a two-day feast of cakes and sweets. Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed in with dances, parades and much good cheer. The festival of Thaipusam in late January is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals (now banned in India) during which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing masochism - definitely not for the squeamish. In KL, devotees march to nearby Batu Caves; in Penang, the event is celebrated at the Waterfall Temple. The Kota Belud Tamu Besar is a huge tribal gathering held in May at Kota Belud near Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. It includes a massive market, traditional ceremonies, ornately decorated horsemen, medicine men and tribal handicrafts. A smaller
tamu is held in Kota Belud every Sunday if you're not visiting during May.

[Image]Facts for the Traveller

Visas: Commonwealth citizens and most European nationals do not need visas for visits of less than three months. Visitors are usually issued an extendable 30 or 60-day visa on arrival. Health risks: Dengue fever, hepatitis, malaria, rabies Time: GMT/UTC plus eight hours Electricity: 220-240V, 50 Hz Weights & Measures: Metric (see the conversion table.) Tourism: 6.5 million visitors in 1993 (320,000 visited East Malaysia)

If you're travelling on a budget, you can get by in Peninsular Malaysia on about US$20-25 a day. This involves staying in cheaper Chinese hotels, eating in local restaurants or street stalls and travelling mainly by bus. If you're travelling with a partner, your accommodation expenses will be significantly reduced.

If you want to stay in comfortable hotels with private bathrooms, eat out at mid-range restaurants and catch taxis to get about locally, expect to spend around US$65 a day. Those more interested in creature comforts than their credit card limit can live in relative luxury on US$100 a day. Note that Sabah is more expensive than Peninsular Malaysia, so add about 30% to your budget when spending time there.

Malaysian banks are efficient and typically charge around US$2-3 for foreign exchange transactions. Moneychangers do not charge a commission but their rates vary, so make sure you know the current rate before approaching one. For cash, you'll generally get a better rate at a moneychanger than a bank. Moneychangers are also generally quicker to deal with.

All major credit cards are accepted at upmarket hotels, shops and restaurants. If you have a credit card with a personal identification number (PIN) attached, you can obtain cash advances from ATMs. Banks in Malaysia are linking to international banking networks, which allow you to withdraw money from overseas savings accounts through ATMs. Check with your bank at home to see if you can withdraw money from yeur home account while in Malaysia.

Tipping is not customary in Malaysia. The more expensive hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge to their bills. All hotel rooms are subject to a 5% government tax, though many cheaper hotels quote a price inclusive of this tax. Bargaining is commonplace in markets and in many tourist shops. Treat is as a polite form of social discourse rather than a matter of life and death.

Malaysia is hot and humid all year so you're going to have sunshine and sweat pretty much whenever you visit. It is, however, best to avoid the November to January rainy season on Peninsula Malaysia's east coast if you want to enjoy the beaches. The time to see turtles on the east coast is between May and September.

Kuala Lumpur In 130 years, Kuala Lumpur has grown from nothing to a modern, bussling city of well over a million people. Superficially, KL (as it's almost universally known) may appear to be just another modern Asian city of gleaming skyscrapers, but it retains much of the character and local colour that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as Singapore. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its centre, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India.

Budget hotels and hostels can be found in Chinatown and Jalan Pudu Lama. Mid-range hotels are concentrated in Chinatown and on Jalan Bukit Bintang. The night market in Chinatown is the most interesting place to eat in the evening.

Melaka Melaka is an interesting blend of Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British influences and is considered Malaysia's most historic city. It was once the most important trading port in the region but is now little more than a sleepy backwater. Ancient-looking junks still sail up the river, imbuing the waterfront with a timeless charm, and the city remains full of intriguing Chinese streets, antique shops, temples and nostalgic reminders of the now-departed European colonial powers.

The most imposing relic of the Dutch period in Melaka is the massive pink town hall, Stadthuys, built between 1641 and 1660. It's believed to be the oldest Dutch building in Asia and displays all the characteristic features of Dutch colonial architecture (read incredibly weighty doors and pleasant louvred windows). The building houses government offices and an excellent Ethnographic Museum which highlights aspects of local history and culture. The imposing ruins of St Paul's Church, built by the Portuguese over 400 years ago, stand in a beautiful setting atop St Paul's Hill. It was regularly visited by St Francis Xavier, who was buried here for a short period before being transferred to Goa in India. The church fell into disuse when the Dutch arrived but is still surrounded by old Dutch tombstones. The Brits, with great sensitivity, used the church as a gunpowder store.

For those who prefer their religious architecture to be a little more colourful, the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple in the old part of the city is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia. It was founded in 1646 and all of the materials and all of the artisans who built it were imported from China. The old part of Melaka is a fascinating area to wander around, and this is where you'll find many of Melaka's famous antique shops; a stroll along Jalan Hang Jebat will pass the best of them.

Georgetown - Penang Island The 285 sq km (177 sq mi) island of Penang, off Peninsula Malaysia's north-western coast, is the oldest British settlement in Malaysia and one of the country's premier resort areas. The island's beaches are touted as the major drawcard but they're somewhat overrated. What makes Penang Island really tick is the vibrant and intriguing city of Georgetown (pop 400,000) on the island's north-eastern coast. This city has more Chinese flavour than either Singapore or Hong Kong, and in its older neighbourhoods you could be forgiven for thinking that the clock stopped at least 50 years ago. Georgetown is a compact city and it's a delight to wander around. Set off in any direction and you're certain to see beautiful old Chinese houses, vegetable markets, temple ceremonies, trishaws, mahjong games and all the other to-ings and fro-ings of Asian street life.

You can still see the time-worn walls of Fort Cornwallis in the centre of Georgetown where the first Briton, Captain Light, set foot in 1786 on what was then a virtually uninhabited island. He established a free port here and the stone fort was finished a few decades later. The area within the fort is now a park liberally sprinkled with cannons, many of them retrieved from local pirates. Seri Rambai, the largest and most important cannon has a chequered history dating back to 1600. It's famed for its procreative powers, and childless women are recommended to place flowers in the barrel of `the big one' and offer special prayers.

Penang has many kongsis (clan houses that operate partly as temples and partly as meeting halls for Chinese of the same clan or surname) but Khoo Kongsi is easily the finest. The original building was so magnificent and elaborate that no-one was surprised when the roof caught fire ontthe very night it was completed. This misfortune was taken merely as a sign that the building had been too grandiose, so a marginally less magnificent structure was built. One wonders at the opulence of the original since the present structure is a dazzling mix of dragons, statues, paintings, lamps, coloured tiles and carvings.

Kuan Yin Teng Temple right in the centre of the old part of Georgetown is nowhere near as impressive, but it's one of the most popular temples in the city and there are often worshippers burning paper money at the furnaces, night-time puppet shows or Chinese theatre performances. For the best view of the city and the island, catch the funicular railway up Penang Hill which rises 830m (2722ft) above Georgetown and provides cool relief from the sticky heat below. There are pleasant gardens, a hotel, a Hindu temple and a mosque at the top. The view is particularly good at dusk when Georgetown, far below, begins to light up.

Most of the popular budget hotels in Georgetown are along Lebuh Chulia. More expensive options line Jalan Penang. There are plenty of Chinese and Indian restaurants, but be adventurous and try the succulent local dishes on offer from the street stalls that appear at night along the Esplanade behind the Penang Library.

Cameron Highlands The Cameron Highlands, in the centre of Peninsular Malaysia, comprise a series of hill stations at altitudes between 1500 and 1800m 4920 and 5904ft). This fertile area is the centre of Malaysia's tea industry and it's the place where locals and visitors come to escape the heat of the plains. Attractions include jungle walks, waterfalls, tours of tea plantations, beautiful gardens and plenty of wild flowers. The cool weather tempts visitors to exertions normally forgotten at sea level, like golf, tennis, and long walks, but this is really Malaysia's R `n' R capital par excellence for those who don't like the beach and enjoy a bout of colonial nostalgia. Most of the budget hotels are in the village of Tanah Rata. The more expensive options are scattered between Tanah Rata and Brinchang.

Panglima Mosque, Ipoh, west of the Cameron Highlands

Tioman Island This picture-postcard island lies off the eastern coast of Peninsula Malaysia in the South China Sea. It boasts beautiful beaches, clear, coral-filled water, technicolour marine life, virtually unpopulated jungle highlands, crystal-clear streams, and the dramatic peaks of Batu Sirau and Nenek Semukut. Tioman has been blessed with exotic place names like `Palm-Frond Hill' and `Village of Doubt' and is generally quoted as the setting for the mythical Bali Hai in the film South Pacific. The permanent population on Tioman is low, and locals are usually outnumbered by tourists. June and August are the peak tourist months, but during the heavy November to January monsoon the island is almost deserted.

The island's west coast is dotted with villages and is home to a classy resort. Pulau Tioman is the most popular travellers' destination; Kampung Nipah is the place to go if you really want to get away from it all. You can get to Tioman by boat from Mersing and Singapore. The island's largest village, Kampung Tekek, has an airstrip.

Peninsular Malaysia Just off the coast of Perlis are the 104 islands of the Langkawi group. The islands are little visited, despite their good beaches, and the main island, Langkawi, has direct boat connections with Thailand.

Low-key Taiping, in Perak, has beautiful lake gardens, well-preserved Anglo-Malay buildings, a good night-market and hardly any tourists. Also in Perak, is the historic royal town of Kuala Kangsar, which has fine mosques and palaces, and was the birthplace of Malaysia's rubber industry. Ipoh, Perak's capital, has elegant mansions and impressive cave temples.

Although pretty inaccessible, a visit to Tasik Chini in central Pahang state is well worth the effort. It's actually a series of 12 lakes surrounded by beautiful jungle territory, with great treks, and it's rumoured to be the haunt of a cousin of the Loch Ness monster.

Taman Negara National Park, accessible only by boat, offers a rare opportunity to visit one of the most pristine primary rainforests in the world. The park covers 4343 sq km (2693 sq mi), sprawling across Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu. The wildlife is varied and abundant, but more evident on extended treks or boat trips away from the more frequented areas.

Sarawak Sarawak offers ever-shrinking areas of untouched jungle, the chance to visit longhouse-dwelling Dayak tribes and a good system of national parks. The area around the capital city, Kuching, has remote coastal villages, such as Pandan and Sematan, and unspoilt tropical rainforest, beaches and walking trails in the Bako National Park. Longhouses are found along the Rejang River and its tributaries - central and southern Sarawak's `highway'. The areas downriver from Kanowit and Song are generally less frequented. In the north-east, the Niah Caves, accessible only by longboat and a 3km (1.86mi) hike, are unforgettable for their rock paintings, forest wildlife, jungle trails and night walss to see the luminous mushrooms. Visitors to Sarawak cannot fail to notice the extent to which logging is affecting the environment and the habitat of the Dayak tribes. Acquainting yourself with the issues surrounding Malaysia's logging practices is recommended before visiting the province.

Sabah Scenic grandeur and fascinating wildlife are the main attractions in (expensive) Sabah. Just offshore from the capital, Kota Kinabalu, the huge Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park (4929ha/12,174ac) is made up of the islands of Gaya, Mamutik, Manukan, Sapi and Sulug. The islands have some of the best beaches in Borneo and wildlife varies from monkeys and bearded pigs to corals and tropical marine life.

Not far from the Kalimantan border, Batu Punggul has an adventure-camp resort, jungle walks, canoeing and cave visits. The resort is accessible only by boat, and the area is home to many longhouse-dwelling tribes. North of the capital, Kota Belud is the venue of one of Sabah's largest open-air Sunday markets and get-togethers (called a tamu). It attracts all manner of vendors, selling everything from magic pills to cattle.

Inland, Mt Kinabalu is one of Sabah's major attractions. It's one of the easiest mountains in the world to climb and the views from the top are sensational - especially at sunset.

[Image]Activities Diving and snorkelling enthusiasts can take their pick of several excellent east-coast islands, including Tioman Island, Pulau Kapas, Pulau Redang and the Perhentian Islands. For the landlubber, the favourite bicycle touring routes are up the east coast of the peninsula and a cross-peninsula route from Butterworth to Baling. There is great trekking, fishing and bird-watching in the Taman Negara National Park in Pahang, and jungle treks, canoeing and fishing trips can be organised at beautiful Tasik Chini in Pahang.

In Sarawak, Gunung Mulu National Park has a number of spectacular caves, including the 51km long Clearwater Cave, one of the longest in the world. Adventure-caving expeditions can be arranged. The park also has good trekking, especially the four-day hike to the summit of Gunung Mulu (2377m).

[Image] Pulau Pangkor, off the western coast of Peninsula Malaysia (20K)

In Sabah, Pulau Tiga National Park off Kuala Penyuh has good walking trails across the volcanic island and several snorkelling spots. Many visitors to Sabah climb Mt Kinabalu. Turtle Islands National Park, 40km (25mi) north of Sandakan, is a good place to see green turtles between July and October, when they come ashore to lay their eggs. The Terengganu coast, in north-eastern Peninsular Malaysia, Pulau Pangkor off Lumut, and Selingan Island, north of Sabah, are other favoured turtle-watching locations.

[Image] Market scene, Kuala Terengganu, on the Terengganu coast (20K)

[Image] Getting There & Away

Malysia's new international airport - at Sepang, 50km (31mi) south of KL - opened in June 1998. Most tourists either fly into Sepang or arrive overland from Thailand or Singapore. However, Penang also has international flights, and Kuching in Sarawak and Tawau in Sabah have flights to/from Kalimantan. There is a departure tax of M$40 on international flights, but if you buy your ticket in Malaysia the tax is already included in the ticket price.

There are four road border crossings between Malaysia and Thailand (two on the west coast, one in the centre and one on the east coast). There is also a west-coast rail link. To get to/from Singapore, you can cross the causeway at Johor Bahru, catch a ferry or take the train. There are three ferry services between Malaysia and Indonesia (Penang-Medan, Melaka-Dumai and, in East Malaysia, Tawau-Tarakan). There's also a difficult road link between Sarawak and Kalimantan.

Peninsula Malaysia has a fast, economical and widespread bus system, and this is generally the best way to get around. Sabah has excellent roads, and minibuses ply the main routes. Buses ply Sarawak's major trunk road, but hardly anywhere else. Peninsula Malaysia has a comfortable and sensibly priced railway system, but there are basically only two lines: one linking Singapore to Thailand via KL and Butterworth, and the other branching off this at Gemas and heading north-east to Kota Bharu. In Sabah, there's a narrow-gauge line through the Pegas River gorge from Tenom to Kota Kinabalu which is well worth catching.

In Peninsula Malaysia, long-distance taxis are twice the price of buses but they're a comparatively luxurious and efficient way to travel. If you want to get around by car, all major car-rental firms have KL offices. There are no boat services between Peninsula and East Malaysia, but fast boats ply the rivers of both Sabah and Sarawak.

Local taxis in Malaysia are metered. Rickshaws have all but disappeared in KL, but they are still a viable form of local transport in provincial areas. KL has a notoriously bad public transport system, and peak-hour travel in the city should be avoided at all cost.

\4 South Malaysia - Johor Bahru

The West Coast of Malaysia JOHOR BAHRU

Most travelers pass through this place and visit the bus station only. So did I. Indeed, it is an expensive place to stay and its development makes it rather unattractive, if compared to Singapore or Melaka. On the positive side, it has a great food market and the former palace of the Johor royal family (Istana Besar), reconverted into a museum, is certainly worth a visit. The bus station is equipped with lots of tickets offices and lots of food shops, restaurants and money changers. And, for a change, buses do not park inside so there aren't too much asphyxia.

Bus Schedules ?

To Class Duration Time N b Freq. Singapore ord/ac 1.5/1 6:30 to 24 a lot 15mn Melaka ac 3.5 8:30 to 21 a few hour Seremban ac 4 8:30,12:30, 14:30 6 na KL ac /svip 5 8:30 to 17, 22:30 to 24 a lot 30-60mn Ipoh ac/svip 7.5 23/10,13, 16 1/3 na Penang svip 21:30, 22 a few na Hat Yai svip 14 11,13,15,18,23, 24 6 na Kota Tinggi ac 1.5 4:50 to 23:45 a lot 10mn Mersing ordi/ac 3 8:30,14/10,11,22:30, 23 2/4 na

Notes : Also to Butterworth at 8pm (R33.6, ac) / To KL, a lot of companies / To Kota Tinggi, Bus No41 then onward to Mersing

The trip to Singapore : SS / L&R / R2.1 / 1hrs / AC Bus Buses to Singapore leave every 15mn or so. Ordinary bus No170 cost R1.2 but takes 1.5-2 hours and gets usually packed after the immigration procedures. The aircond SJE (Singapore Johor Express) may therefore be a better choice at R2.4. We reached the immigration office within 10mn : you get off the bus with your bags (you may board a different bus later), get your passport stamped and get in the bus.

Got it ? 5mn later, after crossing the border, the operation start again on Singapore's side. But a few more games were added this time : you have to fill an arrival card and show the skeleton of your bags before boarding the bus for the final 30mn journey. All together, it took us one hour from Johor Bahru to Queen St Station in the middle of Little India (10mn walk to the GH) but there was no queue and no traffic jams. Showing up at the border at the beginning of the day will probably prove more time consuming...

The trip to Melaka : SS / L / R10 / 3.5 hrs / AC Bus With a bus every hour, getting in is usually no problem. The Johora Express Bus proved very comfortable : great reclining seats with legs supports, no blasting radio and a bad western movie without a too loud soundtrack (if the movie is good, you might request to hear it). The only drawback was the 30mn stop at 10:30 by a restaurant surrounded by toilets and food shops. The scenery was mostly of the causeway-side type, making the curtain a good option if the sun play it too strong on the right side.

\5 Melaka The West Coast of Malaysia MELAKA

Description : The cultural capital of Malaysia, a former Portuguese, Dutch and British settlement

Comments : This is arguably the most culturally interesting place to visit in Malaysia and most people fall for its charm.

What to do ? Visit the Tourist Office (2836538) for maps & info (open 8:45-1700 except Fr from 12:15-14:45) / Follow the Heritage Trail from one historical sight to the other / Wander around the lovely garden of the beautiful Cultural Museum then get in for a colorful & very rewarding cultural experience / Climb the top of an hill to the ruins of a church protecting impressive Dutch tombstones / Spot the remains of an old fort protected by canons / At the foot of the hill, negotiate watercolor paintings or other souvenirs / Climb again at sunset / Join the locals into football or rugby / When reestablished, experience the history of the city with an improved sound-and-light show / Get a bit of propaganda at the People's Museum (also called "Museum of Enduring Beauty).

Extracts from the front of the gate : "Right of government : to rule & to govern. Duty of citizens : to obey elected govermments" / Spot an old plane, an old train or an old limo / Exhaust yourself at the sport complex / Ride richly decorated tuk-tuk / Taste your taste at paintings galleries / Spend a fortune on antiques / Cool off in the dipping pool of a GH / Get an indigestion of Chinese temples / See the oldest mosque in Malaysia (Kampong Hulu) /

What you may not like? The narrow streets full of speedy vehicles / The lack of street names at some intersections (especially after coming from Singapore) / The over developed panorama from St Paul's Hill /

How long ? Allow at least a full day. Where to stay ? There is no shortage of GH in town and most are really backpackers' friendly.

- In the north of town: less choice and less travelers but a short walk (10mn) from the bus station

A few cheap hotels in the area, including Melaka Hotel (opp. the Bus Station, just cross the bridge, from $28), Hong Kong Hotel (walk west on Jalan Munshi Abdullah and turn left on Jalan Bunga Raya, from $20 without shower) and Ng Fook (just north of the above, Sgl 23, Dbl w. shower 32). There should be no reason to stay here if the GH of the area aren't full.

Bunga Raya Travelers Hotel or New Chin Nam (06 2824962), 151 Jalan Bunga Raya (turn right from Jalan Munshi Abdullah, see above) / Small bed room 15(1) or 20(2), w AC 20(1) or 25(2), big bed room w. or without shower 25, w. AC 30 / Go there for the proximity to the bus station, the clean rooms and the cheapest AC or shower room / What you may not like : the basic rooms without window and the lack of backpackers' atmosphere

 Eastern Heritage GH (06 2833026), 8 Jalan Bukit China, walk Jalan Munshi Abdullah for 600m then turn right, 10mn from bus station / Dorm (11) 8, Sgl 20, Dbl 24 (inside window), 26-30, Suite w. balcony & sun chair 32 / Go there for the charming Melaka building built in 1918 (worth a look even if you do not stay), the dipping pool (great after a day in the sun), the relaxed atmosphere, the spotless rooms and the cheap dorm w. ceiling fan / What you may not like : the bad noise isolation from the road and the other rooms, the limited furniture, the rather poor toilet & shower and the lack of kitchen.

 Tony's GH, formerly Apple GH (012 6880119, cobia@hotmail.com), 24 Lorong Banda Kaba, off Lorong Bukit China, south of the above / Sgl 12, Dbl 15(1) or 20(2), Trpl 27 / Go there for the best quality price ratio in town as the rooms are clean, bright & well equipped and it is backpacker's friendly (kitchen, billboard, etc) / Internet R4 per hour / What you may not like : there is only one Sgl and no dorm

- In the South of town, around Jalan Taman Melaka Raya : green & white Bus No 17 (R0.4) from the local bus station (2mn north of the express bus station) to the stop after the Mahkota Parada Shopping Centre (front of Equatorial Hotel) or 20-30mn walk. Except when indicated, all the below GH are backpackers' friendly (kitchen, info board, etc)

Anna's Homestay (012 6381749), 202 Jalan Melaka Raya 1 / Dorm (3) 9, Sgl 15-18 (balcony), Dbl 16-25 (balcony) / HW shower / VCD movies & good equipment / Bike R6 per day / Go there for the relaxed atmosphere or to watch a movie from the big catalogue / What you may not like : the small (but high ceiling) & basic rooms

 Robin's Net (06 2829142), No 205 / Same family as the above / Dorm (3) 9, Sgl 16, Dbl 19-21, Trpl 24-27 / Big TV / Go there to check the room in this GH with a clean & homely atmosphere Shira's GH (06 2861041), No 207 / Dbl 15(1) or 20(2), Nice Dbl w. AC & shower 40 / Good TV but no movies / Bike 10 per day / Go there for the bright lobby and if you are found of Pakistani's culture / What you may not like : the basic cheapest rooms and the lack of other backpacker's

 Travelers' Lodge (06 2275708), No 214 / Dorm (3) 9, Sgl 15-16, w. AC 30, w. HW shower 40-45, Dbl 18-24, w. AC 32, w. HW shower 40-50 / Go there for the fresh & clean rooms, the homely atmosphere in a typical modern Malaysian home and the no-movie choice so that people can meet each other / What you may not like : the rather intimate size

Asrama Belia Youth Hostel (06 2827915), 314 Jalan Melaka Raya 3 / Dorm (8) 10, w. AC 14 / Not so nice dorm (bunk beds) and no atmosphere but a separation between boys & girls.

Sunny's Inn (06 2275446, sunnysinn@hotmail.com), No270, north of the above / Dorm (4) 9, Sgl 15, Dbl 18-25, w. shower 35, Trpl 30 / Add R10 for AC / Bike 5 per day / One movie a day but more you have to pay ! / Active promotion by the bus station / Small & basic rooms (tiny Sgl) but family atmosphere

Melacca Town Holiday Lodge (06 2848830), No148 Taman Melaka Raya, the main road, east from the above / Sgl 15 or 18, Dbl 18 or 20 (balcony), Trpl 27 or 30 / Movies / Go there for the big lobby and the cheapest Dbl (correct room w. two beds) / What you may not like : the somehow lack of freshness and the small kitchen & TV

 Hinly Hotel (06 2836554), 150 Jalan Parameswara, the road north of Jalan Taman Melaka Raya, 5mn walk toward east from the above / Bus No17 / A tiny white structure off the noisy road / Sgl w. AC, HW shower & local TV 35, Dbl 40 / More expensive during local peak seasons / Comfort at very reasonable prices but, obviously, no backpacker's touch

 Kancil GH (06 2814044, www.machinta.com.sg/kancil), 3mn further east / Dorm (4) 12, Dbl 25, 28 or 30, Trpl 38, Quad 48 / Internet / Bike 10 per day / Go there for the nicely decorated house, the superb & spotless wooden rooms (size & deco go up with the price) and the relaxing garden / What you may not like : the traffic on the road (avoid the rooms by it), the dorm in the entrance and the lack of Sgl prices.

- In Chinatown area :  Chong Hoe Hotel (06 2826102), 26 Jalan Tukang Emas (Goldsmith St), the heart of Chinatown, opp. the Mosque / Dbl 20, w. AC 24 or 30 (up to 3 people), w. AC, shower & TV 36 or 46 (up to 4 people) / Go there for the great location, the acceptable cleanliness and the cheap prices if two / What you may not like : it is often full (could not see the cheapest rooms) and a bit grotty.

Malacca Town Holiday Lodge 2 (06 2846905), No52 Kampong Empat, 700m South-West of the bus station / Sgl 15, w. shower 25, w. AC 36, Dbl 20, w. shower 35, w. AC 50, also Trpl / Go there to check the place / What you may not like : being actually a bit out from Chinatown

Where to eat ? A few Malay food stalls just north of the Jalan Taman Melaka Raya roundabout plus plenty of restaurants in the area. For a cozy & relaxed atmosphere by the river, head to Iguana (15 Jalan Laksamana) : special fried rice (R4), chicken curry rice (R2.5), pancake (R3.8) and lots of beer... For a touch of luxury, Heeren House's Cafe (1, Jalan Tun Tan Chang Lock in Chinatown) has a set dinner for R16 or good dishes at R7-10.

Internet or tel ? The cheapest place in town by the hour is Undernet (open 10:30 to 18, until 15 on Sat, closed on Sund) at 131 Jalan Parameswara (on the way to Kancil GH) : R2.5 per hour with R2 min. charge. For less than an hour and more convenience, head to Cempaka Techno (open 10 to 22:30 daily except 15 to 22:30 Sund) at 155 Taman Melaka Raya : R3 per hour but min. charge R0.4 (5mn). They also offer the cheapest international calls in town at R1.1 per mn for UK or R1.2 for France (for example)

Going to Sumatra ? At least two companies have boats to Dumai : R80 one way, R150 return, 2.5 hours. Departure from the river wharf just after the Maritime Museum at 9, 9:30 and 14:30. It is recommended to book one day in advance. Indomal Exp (2816107) & Madai Shipping (2840671)

A Countryside Bike Tour ? Most GH can book a tour with friendly Alias for a 4-5 hours tour around villages. It cost R30 and only mineral water is provided. On WE, it might be possible to participate to a wedding, certainly a very interesting experience...

Bus Schedules ? To Price Class Duration Time Nb Freq. Johor Bharu 10 ac 3.5 8 to 18 a few hour Singapore 13.75 ac 4.5 8 to 18 a lot hour Seremban 3.8 ac 1.5 7 to 19:30 a lot 30-60mn KL 7 ac 2 7 to 19 a lot 30mn Ipoh 17 ac 5 9:30,21 2 na Butterworth 24 svip 7 9,11,23 a few na Kluang 8.5 ac 3 8 to 20:30 a few hour Kuantan 14 ac ? 8:30, 14 2 na K. Terengganu 22 ac ? 20 1 na

Notes : To Ipoh, also to Lumut (R21, 7 hrs) / Also to Penang (R26 at 9,14,21:30) /To Kluang, then to Mersing (2 hrs) /To Kuantan via Segamat / Also to Kota Bahru (R27, 10pm)

The trip to Seremban: SSS / L / R5 / 1.15 hrs / SVIP 25 seats Absolutely, a bit of luxury this time ! Showing up at the station three minutes before the departure time, I accepted the first ticket on offer. For R5, I got myself a space in a super deluxe ultra comfortable luxury coach : 25 seats only (two on the right plus one on the left) and what a seat ! You actually wish the ride would last longer...

I was a bit annoyed to learn that the guy behind me had paid only R4 for the same ride but he obviously had connections I did not have (he was Malay). The bus was heading toward Penang and it left at 9:15, a bit late but still with quite a few seats unoccupied. The trip was very relaxing (would be better with a welcome cocktail and a massage service though) and the scenery very pleasant in part with huge palm tree plantations spotted on the left. The right side was hidden by the curtains as the sun was trying to get in.

\6 The West Coast of Malaysia SEREMBAN

Description : An ugly & noisy small town with, fortunately, a few interesting surroundings...

Comments : This is obviously not a place for backpackers and very few travelers indeed stop here. I believe they should, but probably not for the night. There is a great place for that further east...

What to do ? - In & around town : Spot some great examples of traditional Minangkabau architectures / Walk (without shoes) around handicrafts and Royal historical artifacts / Check out a 1898 steam engine & canons on the grass / Get map & info at the Tourist Centre (open 9 to 17 daily) / Have a talk with a bird, have a look at colorful parrots, have a jog around the Lake Garden / Shop in commercial centers / Discuss with the friendly locals, not accustomed to see too many travelers around here / Stuff yourself with bakeries

- In the surroundings : Spot another architectural wonder constructed without the use of a single nail / / Walk (still without shoes) the rooms of the former Royal Palace, spotting a few objects along the way / Compare the size with the new modern palace nearby / Explore the area a bit / Wander along a river / Climb a mountain and enjoy a great panorama / Listen to the forest /

What you may not like? - In & around town : The town itself / The traffic noise & pollution / The grotty hotels / The difficulty to get reliable info from the local people (I was pointed to 4 diff directions for the night market and that is because I could not fly nor dig) / The ugly & noisy (obviously in order to be heard above the traffic noise) State Mosque /

The not so clean lakes, the not so well maintained lawns, the not so impressive garden, the not so talk active birds / - In the surroundings : Visiting Ulu Bendol on WE, when local people are busy throwing away rubbish, in and around the river / The remaining rubbish, well after the WE is over / The nothing special exhibits at the Royal Museum, especially without any translation / The trip to reach it (beautiful though) /

How long? Not too long in town, except if you brought a gas mask and earplugs. Scenic & relaxing Ulu Bendol could however be worth a few days...

Where to stay? I found in Seremban the worst quality-price ratio lodgings of all my Malaysia's trip : R25 minimum, grotty looks and all very very noisy !

Oriental Hotel, Jalan Tuanku Munawir / The main entrance may look closed but there is a small door on the left side of the building / Dbl w. sink & some furniture 25, more quiet in the back 30 / Unfortunately the best deal in town : large & acceptably clean rooms but very noisy Chiew Kee, continuing north / Sgl 25, Dbl 30, Trpl 35 / Relatively fresher atmosphere with a more friendly host but rather small rooms badly isolated from each other (noise plus light), thanks to very slim and short wooden walls.

Continental, Jalan Dato Sheikh Ahmad / Grotty, dirty & unfriendly / Go there for a look to feel better about your place... Happy Hotel, Jalan Tuanku Hassan / Dbl w. AC & shower 40 / More comfortable but also grotty as no window and an atmosphere of brothel...

 None of the above being too exciting, here comes the good news : it is possible to stay in a government Chalet w. fan & shower at beautiful Ulu Bendol for R10 only (2 beds but Sgl occupancy OK). A real bargain and a great opportunity to relax or explore the mountain... I would recommend to call before heading there (4888948/50) but there are other accomodation options as well (incl. camping) so it should be no problem. WE may be a bit busy though...

Where to eat ? There is a small not too exciting night market near Jalan Lee Sam, the road west of Jalan Tuanku Munawir (turn left after Oriental Hotel). Desserts receive a better treatment with a lot of bakeries around town, in particular on the east part of Jalan Dato Sheikh Ahmad. Food options in Ulu Bendol are more limited and slightly more expensive but you shall not starve.

Internet ? PAC Computer Center (open 10:00 to 20:00 daily) at No33 Jalan Dato Sheikh Ahmad (opp. Continental Hotel) : R2.5 per hour with R1 negotiable minimum charge.

Orientation ? From the bus station, walk north toward a church, passing a shopping Centre on your left. Turn right and you will reach Jalan Tuanku Munawir where the "best" cheapies hotels are. Other hotels are nearby, in perpendicular streets. The ugly State Mosque and the Lake Garden are in the east part of town, a 10mn walk from the bus station.

Why is it worth coming ? - The Cultural Handicraft Complex : Free / Open 10 to 18, closed Friday 12:15 to 14:45) : In addition to the lovely State Museum, you will find the Mapang Tingoi Palace with nice carved woods and the only remaining sliding doors in Peninsular Malaysia. The Tourism Office (open 9 to 17 daily) is also worth a visit / It is about 3km west of town on the way to the North-South Expressway. The road is very unpleasant to walk so better catch a local bus for the 5mn ride.

- Ulu Bendul Recreational Forest : Free / Open anytime / The main reason to stop and a rather good one. The base of the area is rather big & developed (cabins, watch towers, hanging bridge, ponds, bathing pool, etc.) but nature remains the definite host. The walk along the river is easy & pleasant while the climb up Bukit Angsi at 825m (officially 4 hours up) should prove slightly more challenging / Take a bus to Kuala Pilah and get off 20km before the town (R1.2, 30mn). The last bus back should leave Kuala Pilah at 18:30.

- Sri Menanti Palace and Royal Museum : Free (any charge would be a rip off) / Open 10 to 18, closed Friday 12:15 to 14:45) / The museum was a disappointment (especially after Melaka) : very few exhibits and no explanations in English. The 1908 structure however is interesting (not a single nail was used), and you can watch some weaving demonstrations. The nearby area is also charming with a small mosque, a Muslim cemetery and the impressive modern blue roof palace, all surrounded by mountains / Take a bus to Kuala Pilah and get off at the junction (blue gate), 13 km before the town. The royal town is 7km. The road is charming enough for a walk but you should have no problem hitching your way. No public buses are going there.

How to visit ? Considering the state of accommodations in Seremban, I would suggest the followings: Coming from Melaka or KL via the Expressway, ask to be dropped at the State Museum / Get a map and (hopefully) reliable info at the opposite Tourist Office / Catch a local bus to the bus Station, 5mn away / Leave your bag and go have a look at the ugly state Mosque and the OK Lake Garden / Buy some snacks & drinks / Board a bus to Kuala Pilah and get off at Ulu Bendol, 30mn away / Check into your private chalet set in a lovely environment / Head toward Sri Menanti (7km by bus, then 7km by hitching) / The next day, climb Bukit Angsi.

Bus Schedules ? To Price Class Duration Time Nb Freq. Kuala Pilah 2.2 ordi 1 6:30 to 19:30 a lot 30mn Melaka 3.8 ac 1-1.5 6:30 to 19:30 a lot 30mn Port Dickson 1.8 ordi 1 6 to 20 a lot 20mn KL 3.1 ac 1 5:15 to 21:30 a lot 15mn Int. Airport 3.2 ac 1.5 6:45 to 22:30 a lot 30mn

Notes : To Kuala Pilah for Ulu Bendol (R1.2, 30mn) or Sri Menanti / To Port Dickson, bus No67 or 72

The trip to Kuala Lampur : SS / L / R3.1 / 1 hour / AC Bus Not much to write about this short highway ride except that the bus is usually full when leaving and that most people are getting off near the Pasar Seni LRT Station. The bus station is another 5mn away.

\7 The West Coast of Malaysia IPOH

The "City of millionaires" is a rather charming and laid back Chinese city

Comments : Even if you do not wish to stay, take half an hour to check out the beautiful Railway station, 5mn walk north from the bus station. This might convince you to be original and spend a night here...

What to do ? Spot quite a few impressive colonial structures, incl. the local "Taj Mahal" / Compare the modern look of the State Mosque with the charm of the old one on Jalan Masjid (just east of the river) / Walk the paths along the river / Relax in nice parks / Watch the evolution of civilization on the small panels of the Memorial clock tower / Listen to mah jong games / Shop in one of the 14 shopping centers / Get money in one of the 31 banks / Watch a movie in one of the 9 cinemas / Play lots of different sports in one of the best complex of Malaysia / Speak Chinese / At the caves : see colorful dragons, dream by a rocky pond, watch hundreds of turtles, be impressed by huge statues, study large wall paintings, get up stairs to panoramas,... / Also in the surroundings : become an expert in minerals (Geological Museum), see locally bred horses (National Stud Farm), splash at waterfalls or boat by beautiful limestone pinnacles (Lang Hill) / Eat Chinese /

What you may not like ? The lack of GH / Those damn buses who do not stop at intermediary stations if full already / The rubbish inside some caves / The bats droppings / Sweating too much for not such a good view as the panorama is wasted by factories / Spending too much time to reach Kellie's Castle, a dilapidated place strangely recommended as a must seen by a French guidebook /

How long ? Checking all the surroundings attractions would require at least two-three days. One afternoon is however enough for a walk around the not so big city.

Where to stay ? - In the south-east of town on Jalan C.M. Yussaf (if coming from Kampar, ask to get off there) :

 Embassy Hotel (2549496), at No35, opposite the bus stop coming from Kampar / Room w. shower & TV 24(1) or 29(2) / Go there for the relatively clean spacious rooms / What you may not like : the bad isolation from the other rooms

Grand Cathay Hotel (2419685), at No88, corner with Jalan Pasir Putih / Room w. shower (but no toilet) 21, w. AC 26 / Go there for the cheapest spacious rooms in town / What you may not like : the old decrepit look and the lack of separation for the shower Hollywood Hotel (2415322), at No72 / Room w. shower 28, w. AC 32 / Go there if the above are full as it really lack charm... - Near the bus & train station :

 The Majestic Station Hotel (2555605), inside the beautiful "Taj Mahal" train station / Future huge dorm (20-30 beds) announced w. HW shower, TV & video for R15-20 per bed, classic rooms from R63 / Go there for the superb colonial charm with high ceiling and a 183m long colonnaded verandah ! / What you may not like : that they change their mind about the dorm or the size & prices of it

- In the north of town (bus No93 to the hospital for R0.4 then 5mn walk) :

 YMCA (2540809), 211 Jalan Raja Musa Aziz, just north of the big Seenivasagam Park / Dorm (5) 12, Dorm (15) 10, room w. AC & HW shower 30(1), 40(2) or 50(3) / Non member & ladies OK / Go there for the cheapest bed in town (or the cheapest room if on your own), the comfortable & clean AC rooms or to play tennis / What you may not like : not getting the dorm for yourself if Passplanet or Ipoh become popular...

Across the road, a smaller YWCA with more intimate atmosphere caters for ladies only : Sgl or Dbl rooms without shower at 30 or 20 per person plus a R5 registration.

Where to eat ? There is no shortage of small Chinese restaurants in town so it would be a pity to head toward McDonald (worth a look for its Maybank section) or Pizza Hut... A small and late night market set up just south of the Central Market on Jalan Theatre : this is a good place for snacks and original drinks (incl. Bird nets')

Internet ? A few places around town. The cheapest spotted was Triple Net (open 10 to midnight) at 41 Jalan C.M. Yusuf, next to Embassy Hotel : R2 per hour w. R1 min. charge. A more peaceful & friendly atmosphere can however be found at The Networks (open 11 to 19) on Jalan Mustapha Al-Bakri, opp. Kamdar Shopping Centre, two blocks east from the Central Market : R3 per hour w. R1.5 min. charge

Journey breaks at Buddha Caves ? - Sam Poh Tong area : a series of three temples with various interests, south on the way to Kampar (20mn by bus 666, R0.75). The first temple is the kitschy one with colorful dragons & other animals. The second is rather empty but let you go up inside the cave to smell the bats. The third one, Sam Poh Tong (open 8 to 16:30 daily), is the only real reason to visit, not so much for the statues but for the beautiful rocky pond. In the back, a tortoise pond and a new temple set in a dramatic surrounding are also worth a look. Vegetarian food is available at the temple, except on Monday. The best way to visit would be by breaking your journey from/to Kampar and ask the dragons to keep your bag. Another Temple, Kek Lok Tong, look close on the map or if you listen to some locals but is in fact about 5km away on the road by the Petronas Station. Might not be worth bothering...

- Perak Tong, definitively a must visit, 6km north on the way to Kuala Kangsar (15mn by bus, R0.75). The Chinese temple can be spotted on the right but the bus might stop a bit further. This grandiose cave is full of statues (in particular a 12.8m high sitting Buddha) and wall paintings, some of them actually quite tasteful. Stairs (open from 9 to 16:00) go all the way to the top of the hill (from near the top, concrete stairs on the left; the right stairs lead to a statue and a disappointing panorama) where a small garden offer panorama & relaxation until you get your breath back. Again, the best way to visit would be by breaking your trip to/from Kuala Kangsar.

An exotic Island ? Ipoh is the traditional transit place to reach beautiful Pulau Pangkor. If the monsoon prevents you from reaching the better eastern islands (Perhentians), this should be a great alternative. I did not have the time to go, so I won't talk about it too long but those who have been recommend it. Reaching it is easy : take a bus to Lumut (R3.75, 1 hour) and then a boat (every 20mn, R3) for the short crossing. Accommodations seem however to be expensive with Sgl reported at around R30 and Dbl at R40. It should be possible to find much cheaper if you are not too picky. If you visit, please share your experience with other backpackers...

Leaving Ipoh? Some destinations with a few buses only, such as Kota Bahru or Cameron Highlands, would usually require a reservation one day in advance minimum. The bus routine could also be broken by taking the train, even so it will be slower & more expensive. Going north, the late morning XSP/4 train (the only convenient one) is unfortunately running on Friday, Sat, Sund & holidays only (see the trains table)

Bus Schedules ? To Price Class D Time Nb Freq. Kuala Kangsar 3.05 ordi 1 6:15 to 21:30 a lot 10-20mn Kamunting 4.3 ordi 1.5 6:30 to 18:30 a lot 30mn Penang 9-10 ac 2.5 9:30 to 21:30 a few hour Hat Yai 28 ac 6 24 1 na Kota Bharu 18 ac 7 9,22 2 na Lumut 3.75 ac 1.5 7 to 19 a few 30-60mn Kampar 1.7-2.3 various 1 6 to 22:30 a lot 10-30mn Cameron Highlands 12 ac 2.5 11,18 2 na KL 9.5 ac 2.5 6 to 19 a lot 30-60mn Singapore 38 ac 8 9 to 10,13,20 to 24 a few hour

Notes : To Kamunting then change to Taiping (15mn) / To Penang : a few companies / To KL : a lot of companies

The trip to Kuala Kangsar: SSS / R / R0.75 + 2.75 / 15mn + 1 hour / AC buses. The first short part, up to Perak Tong, offered a pleasant view of limestone formations on the right, in particular Lang Hill. And then you see the temple. You may wish to remind the driver where you wishes to stop but you should not shout at him if he makes you walk back a bit as the bus stop is 100m further from the temple.

The bus can however be caught straight opposite the temple if you gesticulate well enough. The second part was less attractive but pleasant nevertheless. 19km before Kuala Kangsar an originally shaped hill can be spotted on the right and that's about it. For more view, wait to reach Kuala Kangsar...

\8 The West Coast of Malaysia KUALA KANGSAR

Description : A tiny town surprisingly charming with its river, mountains backdrop and great monuments.

Comments : Famous for its little Mosque, one of the most striking in the world, the Royal Town of Perak state is usually a quick stopover on the way to/from Taiping. It deserves actually much more time...

What to do ? Walk east toward Ubudiah Mosque, a great 20-30mn walk by a garden, the river and old buildings / Smile when finally spotting it / Keep smiling while it becomes bigger / By the time you reach it and go around, you should have become an happier person / Continue your walk toward inhabited Iskandariah Palace (5mn away) and spot an old charming house on your right / Walk anti-clockwise around the Palace in order to reach the yellow Perak Royal Museum ASAP (open daily except Friday 9:30 to 17:00) and smile again / Ask the Palace's guard for the latest development : will it open to visitors soon ? / Back in town, walk the park along the river and, surprise, spot the three previous monuments at the same time ! / If a 6 years old kid, play slides or swing / If a bit older, jog or converse with locals / Keep saying "Hello !" to kids / See old guns / Relax on or by the lake / Fish it ! / Meet the last surviving rubber tree brought in 1877 from London / If more time, I am sure there are some great treks to do in the surroundings... Explore and let us know !

What you may not like ? The lack of good & cheap places to stay / The deafening noise of some motorbikes / The locked gates at the Palace / The lack of night market / The full dress of some Muslim wives / Not being able to spend more time in the area /

How long ? As long as you can but one afternoon would actually let you visit all the attractions.

Where to stay ? None of the places below are recommended but there is no other choice if on a budget and they are bearable after all...

Double Lion Hotel (7761010), 100m south of the bus Station / Chinese management / Dbl w. big bed & shower 25, Twin 30, more up market rooms in the back as well / Go there if two people to share the large rooms / What you may not like : the grotty, basic & noisy rooms

Fu An Hotel, on Jalan Datok Sagor, 10mn walk from the above (second road on your left), rapidly passing a cinema / Chinese management / Sgl 15, Dbl 20 / Bucket common shower / Go there for the cheapest room in town and the balcony / What you may not like : the noise from the road or the dogs, the holes on the wall instead of a window in the Sgl, the decrepit look, the approximate cleanliness and the smell of bats (on the roof ?)

Where to eat ? By the riverfront and the park, a bunch of restaurants serve good food at very reasonable prices (Mee Goreng for R1.30 for example).

Internet ? Two places east of the clock tower on Jalan Kangsar (first floor of the place selling ice creams) charges R2.5 per mn. Aroma Harum Enterprise (open 9 to 19 but sometimes up to 23:00) has no minimum charge. KS Computer has a minimum charge of K0.5

Bus Schedules ? To Price Class Duration Time Nb Freq. Taiping 2.05-2.25 fan/ac 45m 6:40 to 19:40 a lot 20m Ipoh 3.05 ac 1 6:15 to 21:30 a lot 10-30mn KL 15 ac 4 9,14 2 na Kota Bharu 14.5 ac 8 11:15,22:45 2 na

Notes : To Taiping, AC bus every hour

The trip to Taiping : SSS / L&R / R2.25 / 40mn / AC Bus Which one would you choose ? An old ordinary bus stopping at every passenger for R2.05 or a modern express AC bus for R0.2 more ? The only criticism for the second option was that it did not last longer...

\9 The West Coast of Malaysia TAIPING

Description : A town by "the most beautiful public garden in Malaysia"

Comments : Surrounded by greenery, including an old Hill Station, the "town of everlasting peace" indeed offer some good retreat opportunities. But to find those, you will have to leave the developed town center.

What to do ? Leave the shops & traffic behind by walking 1km to the east / Walk the small path around the lake / Cross small bridges / Spot monitor lizards / See other wild animals at the big zoo / Watch locals play grass hockey / Visit the oldest museum in the country / Back in town, check out a few Chinese & Indian Temples / Shop around / Taste Satay at the large night market / Get a Land Rover ride (R2) to Maxwell Hill and enjoy the view & walks around / Walk down the hill (2-3 hours) Note : I did not go to the Hill myself. Anyone to relate the experience ?

What you may not like ? The traffic around the Garden / The color of the water with some floating rubbish / Also spotting rubbish on the well maintained grass / The not so charming town / The sight of animals in cage /

How long ? A few hours for a taste of serenity by the lake garden. At least one day if wishing to go up Maxwell Hill

Where to stay ? - In town : Plenty of Chinese Hotels, some of them working as scary brothels.

Queen Hotel, the nearest from the bus station, opposite the Department Store "The Store" / Room w. shower 25 / Acceptable rooms opening on balcony but nothing to write home about...

Swiss Hotel (2620133), further on the street at No431 Lebuh Chulia, near the central market / Sgl or Dbl w. lavatory 22 or 25, w. shower 30 / Relatively clean & large bright rooms.

 Sin Kong Hotel (822780), 39 & 41 Jalan Barrack, opp. the Post Office, 4th major street to the North, the nearest from the Garden / Room w. lavatory 18 / Go there for the cheapest acceptably clean room in town / What you may not like : not getting a full wall nor the switch inside the room

 Hong Kong Hotel (8073824), 79 Jalan Barrack, further west / "Small", "medium" or "big" rooms w. shower 23, 26 or 32 / Go there for the cheapest acceptably clean rooms w. shower and the not that small "small" room / What you may not like : the old furniture

- By the Lake Garden : Casuarina Hotel (8041339), formerly knows as New Rest House / 1.5 km from town center at 1, Jalan Sultan Mansor Shah / The management has put carpet on the floor and improved the limited furniture in order to raise the prices from 35 to 69 for a not so fresh Dbl room w. AC and HW shower. Nice location and big rooms but not so good value for money...

Where to eat ? Plenty of street restaurants between the Swiss Hotel and "The Store" plus a large night market. You will not starve !

Bus Schedules ? From Taiping : To Price Class Duration Time Nb Freq. Kamunting 0.6 ordi 20mn 6 to 21:30 a lot 15mn Kuala Kangsar 2.05-2.25 fan/ac 45m 6:00 to 21:30 a lot 15-30mn Lumut 4.5 ac 2 7,9:20,12,14:30,17 5 na

Notes : To Kuala Kangsar, AC Bus every hour from 7 to 18:00.

From Kamuntun: To Price Class D Time Nb Freq. Butterworth 4 ac 75mn 7 to 20:30 a lot 30mn Penang 6 ac 1.5 6:30,9,13:30,16,18,18:30,19 a few na Kota Bharu 15-18 ac 7 10:30,22 2 na Ipoh 4.3 ac 1.5 6:30 to 18:30 a lot 30mn KL 13 ac 4 7:30 to 23:15 a lot hour Singapore 35 ac 8 '9:30,21:30,21:45,22 4 na

Notes : To Kota Bharu, bus from Kuala Kangsar / To KL, lots of companies

The trip to Penang via Kamunting & Butterworth : SS / L&R / R0.6 + R4 + R0.6 / 20mn + 75mn + 20mn / Buses + Ferry The Bus station in Taiping is handling only a few destinations. For express buses, one must go to Kamunting first, a 20mn-7km ride on Bus No8.

There, a dozen of companies exhibit prices and time schedules. I did not bother comparing the products and took the first bus to Butterworth. I could have gone to Penang directly but it was R2 more expensive, would have left 30mn later and would have taken 30mn longer. Three good arguments for the boat.

The ride was perfect for a nap as the highway scenery was mostly boring. We arrived in no time at the big unpleasant bus station with its dozen of companies. If you wish to reach Kota Bharu on a super vip bus (24 seats, R24), this is the place to buy the tickets as those do not leave from Penang. Other exotic destinations are also on offer... The last part of the trip was the most original and scenic : the huge ferry to Penang ! The pier is only 5mn walk away from the station (go on the first floor and follow the crowd) and it never rest : 24 hours service every 20-30mn for R0.6 (free from Penang to Butterworth). The GH are then 10mn walk away...


\10 The East Coast

Beachcombing Along the East Coast of Malaysia By Mike Jacobs

Evenings are magical at the new mosque in Kuantan, Malaysia. Illuminated minarets and domes rise heavenward as the chant of the Imam floats across the restless coconut palms and the scent-laden air. To the locals it's no big deal but to overseas visitors, such special moments are the true rewards of travel.

Wow! is the best poss description of Malaysia's still-secret East Coast. Here are the beaches where Robinson Crusoe washed ashore, updated with all the mod cons. From the posh pleasure terraces of the Hyatt at Kuantan to the crude but cute cabins on isolated beaches, visitors are free to roam the magnificent stretches of sand warmed by the South China Sea.

From Kuantan to Kuala Terrangganu and up to Kota Bharu near the Thai border, are isolated beach resorts at prices you barely notice and hardly anyone else to share them with - most of the time. The best places to go are usually well out of town, where balmy breezes blow and surf abounds. Markets, museums, mosques and shopping mayhem can be saved for a cloudy afternoon.

Just outside Kuantan are vast beach and palm landscapes with fishing villages tucked amid the trees. Boats are few, as the modern fishing industry has moved to a thriving yet decrepit port in town, where wiggle-fresh jumbo prawns go for JY400 per kilo. The locals dry thin fish cakes, tend goats and smile genuinely at visitors. Greetings are easily and readily exchanged.

Exploring 500 kilometers of hot sand and cool waves has a hazard: signs at the Cherating Beach Resort warn guests to "Beware! Danger from falling coconuts." "Walking beneath thousands and thousands of ripening coconuts around the gardens could be dodgy for guests so I keep my fingers crossed," says the resort's jovial manager. So far, none have been bonked. One villager still uses a trained ape to climb the trees and knock down the nuts for market. It's a dying art - these two are the last local primate team, and both are getting a little long in the tooth.

Life on the East Coast is slow, and backpackers can go a long way on one traveler's check. Cherating, just past Snake Village at the mouth of Snake River and opposite Snake Island, is populated with "snakes" from Europe and the US slithering around Asia for six months to a year. Chris, who runs the hippie-style Moon Guest Cottages (JY2000/ night), is an ex-medical lecturer from England who provides a laid-back haven for such adventurers. "Living in touch with nature" he muses, "gives me far better things to think about."

Getting around to all the places of interest in air-cond buses or taxis provides a chance to rest the sunburn. Local tvl agents offer low-price excursions everywhere: lakes, forests, caves, coral islands, rivers and native villages. Between May and September, huge leatherback turtles lay their eggs beneath Chendor Beach.

Mosqueby Night Life beneath the waves is best seen from major offshore islands where magnificent coral reefs in crystal-clear waters await divers and snorkelers. Small sharks can be found around some reefs but not, as yet, around the tourist bazaars.

Resorts which offer luxury bungalows (from around JY3500/ night) feature large gardens with bright, exotic flora and fauna, long, blue pools with a handy bar, and palm-lined beaches decorated by nature and the tides. Shell collecting can occupy a whole day. At one such resort, a British executive on vacation from Singapore realized: "There are so many wonderful places to go along the coast just like this...so I may as well stay here." Travel writers never get such an idyllic option.

Malaysia's East Coast is "doomed" by its own beauty. As is often the case with the best travel destinations, it will be a vacation magnet for new developments and hordes of sun seekers. Right now it offers amenities that one day will be travel history: isolated beaches, affordable lodging, uncrowded roads, local prices in the shops, and a genuine welcome to tourism.

Malaysia is a real bargain for great food, quality accommodation and reliable transport. From Kuala Lumpur (KL) to Kuantan, a public bus (JY700) takes four hours, while a plane (JY2500) gets you there in an hour. An official taxi from the new KL airport can take double that and cost twice the airfare. Or you can grab a regular cab for JY4500 all the way to your new doorstep. Car rental is available in Kuantan (JY5000/ day); driving is on the left. The perfect trip is to leave KL early in a hired car, and arrive at sunset in Kuantan - leaving plenty of time for stops in between


\11 Kuala Lumpur (KUL) guides

Capital of Malaysia, located in west-central West Malaysia (Malaya).

The city lies astride the confluence of the Kelang and Gombak rivers in hilly country west of the Main Range. It is situated midway along the west coast tin and rubber belt and 25 mi (40 km) east of its ocean port, Port Kelang, on the Strait of Malacca. It is the federation's largest town and its cultural, commercial, and transpor-tation centre. In 1972 Kuala Lumpur was designated a municipality and in 1944 an area of 94 sq mi (243 sq km), including the municipality, was designated the Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur.

The city, whose name means Muddy Confluence, had its beginnings in 1857, when 87 Chinese tin miners founded a settlement at Ampang, now a suburb.

Strategically commanding both river valleys, the commu-nity flourished as a tin-collecting centre despite its malarial jungle location. In 1880 Kuala Lumpur superseded Klang as the state capital, and its rapid growth there-after has been attributed to Sir Frank Swettenham, British resident after 1882. He initiated construction on the Klang-Kuala Lumpur Railway and encouraged the use of brick and tile in buildings as a fire precaution and as an aid to better health.

The city's central position led to its choice as capital of the Federated Malay States (1895). Its population greatly increased after World War II; under a resettle-ment program new villages were established on the city's outskirts during a long (1948-60), Communist-led guerrilla insurgency. Kuala Lumpur became the capital of the independent Federation of Malaya in 1957 and of Malaysia in 1963.

The city presents a mixture of modern and Moorish archi-tecture, traditional Chinese shop houses, squatters' huts, and Malay stilt kampongs ("villages"). While its centre along the embanked Kelang is heavily congested, its municipal area and suburbs are well planned.

The commercial quarter, concentrated on the river's east side, features the world's tallest bldgs, the Petronas Twin Towers (1,483 feet [452 m]), designed by Argentine-American architect Cesar Pelli and completed in 1996. Govt bldgs and the notable railway station (all influen-ced by Moorish design) are on the river's hilly west bank. This nucleus is surrounded by a zone of Chinese two-story wooden shop houses and mixed residential areas of Malay kampongs, modern bungalows, and middle income brick flats.

The exclusive Kenney Hill sector is a showcase for domestic architecture. Despite the prevalence of Islamic domes and minarets, the Chinese dominate the city and its economy. The Indian minority, connected with nearby rubber estates, is substantial. Malays are usually in govt service, and Kampong Baharu is one of the city's few concentrated Malay residential sections.

The industrial suburb of Sungai Besi (Iron River) has iron foundries and engineering works and factories that process food and soap. The Sentul and Ipoh Road area is the site of railway (assembly and construction) and engineering workshops and sawmills. Cement is manufactured at Rawang to the north, and small-scale tin and rubber smelting is common throughout the region. While Kuala Lumpur has diversified manufacturing, the focus of industrial planning is in the adjacent estates of Petaling Jaya and Batu Tiga. The local Batu Arang coalfield and the Connaught Bridge thermal-electric power station near Kelang are the main sources of the city's fuel supply and power.

There are several hospitals and state clinics, including a modern tuberculosis centre and the well-equipped Institute of Medical Research (1900). The Rubber Research Institute (1925) and Radio and Television Malaysia are headquartered there. The University of Malaya was founded at Kuala Lumpur in 1962, and the Malay-language Universiti Kebangsaan opened there in 1970. Other educational institutions include the Federal Technical College (1954), the Language Institute (1958), and Tunku Abdul Rahman College (1969).

The city is the site of the National Museum of Malaysia (1963), the modern National Mosque, Parliament House, Lake Gardens, the palace of the head of state, the National Zoo, Bukit Nanas (Pineapple Hill) Forest Reserve, and two sports stadiums. The old Sultan's (Jame) Mosque is on a peninsula in the city centre. Subang International Airport (with one of the longest runways in Southeast Asia) and Templer Park are outside town. Batu ("rock") Cave, a 400-ft-(122-m-) high limestone outcropping reached by hundreds of steps, contains a Hindu temple and is the scene of elaborate Dipavali (Bahasa Malaysia, Thaipusam; a New Year festival) celebrations for local Hindus.
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In 130 years, KUL has grown from nothing to a modern, bussling city of over a million people. Superficially, KL may appear to be just another modern Asian city of gleaming skyscrapers, but it retains much of the char and local colour that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as SIN. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its centre, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India.

When KL does something, it likes to do it big. The twin Petronas Towers skyscrapers - the tallest building in the world - dominate the skyline, while in Merdeka Square stands a 95m (312ft) flagpole. Despite the economic crisis, Kuala Lumpur is currently the site of large-scale development, with work underway on a new US$8 billion city on the southern fringe of the capital as well as an adjoining `ultra-high-tech multimedia supercorridor'. Before the Asian economic crisis hit in 1997 there were also plans to build the world's longest building, too.

Melaka is an interesting blend of Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British influences and is considered Malaysia's most historic city. It was once the most important trading port in the region but is now little more than a sleepy backwater. Ancient-looking junks still sail up the river, imbuing the waterfront with a timeless charm, and the city remains full of intriguing Chinese streets, antique shops, temples and nostalgic reminders of the now-departed European colonial powers.

The most imposing relic of the Dutch period in Melaka is the massive pink town hall, Stadthuys, built between 1641 and 1660. It's believed to be the oldest Dutch building in Asia and displays all the characteristic features of Dutch colonial architecture (read incredibly weighty doors and pleasant louvred windows). The building houses government offices and an excellent Ethnographic Museum which highlights aspects of local history and culture. The imposing ruins of St Paul's Church, built by the Portuguese over 400 years ago, stand in a beautiful setting atop St Paul's Hill. It was regularly visited by St Francis Xavier, who was buried here for a short period before being transferred to Goa in India. The church fell into disuse when the Dutch arrived but is still rounded by old Dutch tombstones. The Brits, with great sensitivity, used the church as a gunpowder store.

For those who prefer their religious architecture to be a little more colourful, the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple in the old part of the city is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia. It was founded in 1646 and all of the materials and all of the artisans who built it were imported from China. The old part of Melaka is a fascinating area to wander around, and this is where you'll find many of Melaka's famous antique shops; a stroll along Jalan Hang Jebat will pass the best of them.

--------------------------------------------------------- The West Coast of Malaysia KUALA LAMPUR

Description : An impressive capital by Asian standard : great architectures & parks, good food & entertainments, OK traffic & pollution

Comments : There is plenty to see in KL and even more just outside.

What to do ? - In town : Experience records : one of the world's tallest flag pole (100m), the world's tallest two freestanding towers (452m), Asia's largest computer generated wall screen, one of the largest freestanding bronze sculpture (National Monument, 15.54m), the tallest telecommunication tower in Asia (KL Tower, 421m), one of the largest bird park in S-E Asia / If in love with stairs, register for the International Towerthon : 2058 steps to climb in the heat of July ! / Shop for any fake or pirated products from software & VCD to Rolex watches or Raiban sunglasses /

- In the surroundings : Carry on with records : the tallest Minarets and one of the largest dome ("Blue Mosque", 142.3m), one of the largest firefly colonies (at Kampung Kuantan, nocturnal tours on boat), the word's largest pewter factory & the largest pewter tankard (Royal Selangor) / Climb 272 steps toward a 100m high ceiling cave (Batu Caves, 13km) / Learn about the tin mining industry / Then have fun in formers tin mines turned into theme-parks : Mines Wonderland (R12) & Sunway Lagoon (R18 for the water park) / Walk lush forest or agricultural parks / Splash in waterfalls (incl. Sungai Gabai) / Experience the lifestyle of aboriginal communities at Gombak Orang Asli Centre (20km after Batu Caves) or on Carey Island (original votive sculptures by the Mah Meri) / Watch 160 species of birds at Kuala Selangor Nature Park /

What you may not like ? Puduraya Bus Station / Queuing two hours at the Twins Towers to reach only the 41st floor platform where you can stay 10 minutes maximum / The non-counter policy of quite a few taxi, under various pretexts (this means you will need to agree on a price beforehand or, better, get off and find another taxi) / Getting caught at the airport with any fake product / The few cars inside the Lake Gardens and the speakers / The traffic jams during peak hours (avoid transport between 5-7pm) /

How long ? Two - three days inside plus one or two days outside.

Where to stay ? Most places are located in or around colorful Chinatown :

- Near Jalan Hang Lekir : Backpackers Travelers Lodge (603 2010889), 1F, No158 Jalan Tun, corner with Jalan Hang Lekir, south-east of the Central Market / Dorm (6) 8, Sgl 22, Dbl 25, w. AC 40, w. shower 50, family room (big bed plusbunk bed) 70 / Video TV with evening movie / Go there for the cheapest bed in town and the backpackers atmosphere / What you may not like : the lack of real fan in the rooms (a poor air ventilation system instead), making any stay rather sweaty, plus the small, basic, noisy & grotty rooms

Backpackers Travelers Inn (603 2382473), 2F, Jalan Sultan, opposite Furama Hotel, walk east from the above and turn right at the second street / Dorm (6-8) w. AC in the evening 10, Sgl 25, Dbl w. fan 30 / Go there for the freshest dorm / What you may not like : it belongs to the same owner as the above which means the same poor standard of accomodation...

- Around Jalan Sultan : Chinatown GH (233 0417), Jalan Petaling, the busy market street in the evening, left side, north of Jalan Sultan / Sgl 18-24, Dbl 25 / Fan in the rooms / Go there to check the cheapest Sgl of the area / What you may not like : the disgusting stairs and the basic & grotty rooms

 Golden Plaza Hostel (2068559), 106 Jalan Petaling, South of Jalan Sultan / Dorm (12 & 18) 10, Sgl or Dbl (bunk bed) 18 or 22, Dbl 25, w. window 30, w. AC 50, Trpl 36, Quad 40 / Internet R7 per hour / Satellite TV & VCD / Bus & plane tickets / Go there for the "true" backpackers' atmosphere, the "100% no bed-bugs policy" and all the info provided / What you may not like : the small & basic rooms with slim & lazy walls not reaching the ceiling.

Chinatown Lodge (2307027), 1F, 111 Jalan Petaling, entrance at the corner on Jalan Sultan / Same owner as above / Dorm (6) 12, Sgl 25, Dbl 30, w. AC 35(1) or 40(2) / Tiny, basic & not so clean rooms at not so good prices

 Lee Mun GH or Travelers Inn (202 3480), 5F (lift), 109 Jalan Petaling, actually entrance on Jalan Sultan, 2mn from the above / Chinese management / Dorm 9(4), Room 20(1) or 25(2), w. AC 35 / Satellite TV / Free water / Go there for the best quality price ratio in the area as it is relatively clean and the rooms have ceiling or standing fan plus space for a table / What you may not like : that this is really the best you can get as it also lack freshness and is noisy (the walls do not go to the roof)

 Wan Kow Hotel (2382909), 16 Jalan Sulan, just west of the above / Chinese management / Rooms w. ceiling fan & sink 27 / Go there for the big rooms and the acceptable cleanliness / What you may not like : not getting a discount for Sgl occupancy

City Inn Hotel (2389190), No11 Jalan Sultan, opposite the above / Room w. HW shower & AC 50(1) or 60(2) / Go there for the nice clean rooms / What you may not like : hey, we are in a different price category here ! Sun Kong Hotel, same street, just after the Mandarin Hotel / Chinese management / Same kind of rooms as the above cheapies for R30 but no lobby and a real mess ! - On Jalan Silang, north of the above :

Travelers Moon Lodge (03 2306601), No36 / Dorm (4-7) 10, Sgl 20, Dbl 25, Trpl 36, Quad 45 / Rates incl. breakfast / Satellite TV / Kitchen / Go there for the backpackers atmosphere, the acceptable rooms and the cheap prices / What you may not like : the walls stop a bit before reaching the ceiling and bedbugs were reported...

 Travelers Home (03 2013546), No23&25, opp. the road / Same management as the above / Dorm (4) 10, Sgl 20, Dbl 25-30 (outside window) / Kitchen / Go there for the rooftop with satellite TV & VCD and the correct bright & correctly sized rooms / What you may not like : it is not spotless...

Twin Happiness Hotel (03 2387667), No44 / Room 25, w. shower 30 / All rooms w. window / Chinese management / Go there for the size of the rooms w. ceiling fans & windows and the cheap shower / What you may not like : the approximate cleanliness, the noise if by the road and the lack of backpackers' services

The Odyssey Backpacker (016 2810432, yvl@tm.net.my), No46, same building as Melody Internet / Chinese management / Dorm (4) 12, Sgl 20, Dbl 26 / No TV, no free water (paying dispenser), no second-hand smoke / Go there for the cleanliness / What you may not like : the slim and lazy walls, stopping 30cm before the ceiling and the small rooms. - In the historic railway station, opp. KMT Station :

The traveler's Station (22722237, station1@tm.net.my) / Dorm (20) w. AC 15, Dbl 25, 30 or 35, w. AC 45, Trpl 50, w. AC 60 / Discount in some rooms if stay more than 2 days / TV & video (free in the afternoon but R5 in evening !) / Internet R6 per hour / Go there for the location in this great building and the correctly sized rooms / What you may not like : the lack of charm inside, the basic & noisy rooms (face the street) and the lack of kitchen & Sgl rates - Opposite Puduraya Bus Station :

 Anuja Backpackers Inn (603 20479, anujainn@tm.net.my), 28 Jalan Pudu, opposite Puduraya Bus Station / Indian Management / Dorm 10, tiny Sgl 15, bigger rooms 22(1), 28(2), w. window 25(1), 30(2) or 38(3), w. AC 30(1), 40(2) or 50(3) / Most rooms with fan / HW common shower / Free water / Satellite TV / Internet R6 with R1 min / Go there for the backpacker's atmosphere, the cleanliness, the rooftop sitting area with video TV / What you may not like : the basic small rooms, the hot 3rd floor rooms, the smoke in the lobby

 KL City Lodge (2305275), 1F, No16 Jalan Pudu, next to the above / Indian Management / Dorm (6 or 14) w. fan & AC 10, Sgl 20, Dbl 30 / All rooms w. fan / HW common shower / Go there to check the rooms, the clean atmosphere & the good small dorm / What you may not like : getting the big dorm and the small lobby with less backpacker atmosphere

Where to eat ? Restoran Shameema (No206, Jalan Tun HS Lee) had cheap & tasty Indian food plus free iced water on request but wasn't so clean. A good place for lunch is the hawker floor of the Central Market. At night, Chinatown's area offer a lot of animation but it is not too cheap and some travelers have had an heart attack when the bill showed up (always clarify the price before ordering).

On Saturday nights, head toward little India for the busiest night market in KL. Every night but especially on Friday & Sat, head toward The Regent Hotel's area : Jalan Bukit Bintang is bordered by trendy bars & restaurants. Some excellent local restaurants serving a good selection of seafood (with matching prices) can also be found nearby on Jalan Tingkat Tong Shin & Jalan Alur. But the most trendy place to be, to see & to be seen now is Bangsar, 7 km south-west of the City Center (taxi only) : expensive restaurants cater to the expatriates & the jet-set while food stalls deal with the more budget oriented.

Internet ? A few places in town charging R4-6 per hour. Melody Cafe (open 9:30 to 1am) at 46 Jalan Silang : R5 per hour with R3 min (30mn) but relaxed lobby with western magazines and classical music. A cheaper option is HMI Multimedia (open 10 to 24, Frid 14:30 to 24) at 33 Jalan Melayu (north Masjid Jamek Station) : R3 per hour with R2 min (30mn). For a short time, Anuja Backpackers Inn charge R1 for 10mn.

Change money ? Money changers can be found in or around the Central Market. Syarikat International Traders (9, Jalan Lebuh Pudu, open 10 to 19:30 daily) was offering the best rate without commission for TC at the time of writing. Syarikat RM (G17, GF, Central Market) is also competitive and close at 20:30. Banks offer better rates but they charge commissions on TC (R5 plus 0.15 per cheque) so they are interested above $100 only.

Taxi ? They are very reasonably priced at R2 for the first two km and 10 sen for every 200m thereafter. A surcharge of 50% apply between midnight and 6am. As usual, you should insist that the counter be used (get off if you do not get satisfaction) and clarify your destination with the driver. This being said, walking around is usually the best way to visit and most of the streets have some greeneries providing shade. The LRT (prices from R0.7 to 1.7) is also a faster way to travel.

A (very) busy day in KL ? - Start by wandering around Merdeka Square, easy to spot with its 100 meter-high flagpole : the water fountains at the northern extremity, the Moorish-inspired Sultan Abdul Samad Bldg (designed by British architect AC Norman), the impressive Dayabumi Complex and the old & delicate Masjid Jamek Mosque are the most striking spots of the area.

- From the Mosque, take the LRT to KLCC "Kuala Lampur City Center" (R1.10, 10mn). Try to arrive before 9:30 and go straight to the Twin Towers to reserve a ticket to the skybridge on the 41st floor. At this time during week day, there should be no queue (in the afternoon, it can take up to 2 hours !) and you should get an admittance for between 10:00 to 10:30. This will give you the time to relax in the park behind, or even to splash a bit by the fountains.

- After your 10mn skywalk, streetwalk 5mn west along Jalan Ampang to Malaysia Tourist Info Complex (MATIC, open 9 to 18 daily, tel : 21643929). The building is nice but infos & maps about KL or other cities are the main reason to visit.

- Continue west on Jalan Ampang and cross the river to Little India Mosque and its exotic Middle-East atmosphere. / Alternatively, turn left at Jalan Sultan Ismail and then right at Jalan P. Ramlee. This area, known as the Golden Triangle, is a trendy place to shop or dine. Much more interesting at this time is the 421m high Menara KL.

- Back where you started, head toward Central Market and wander around the souvenir shops. If buying, remember that bargaining is essential. Plenty of hawkers' food stalls are located on the first floor.

- Walk south to the Moorish-style KL Railway Station, then to the National Mosque, one of the largest in SE Asia.

- Follow Jalan Perdana up to the Islamic Art Museum (R8, closed on Monday) and then to the Planetarium for some fine panoramas. You do not really have the time to visit I am afraid...

- Walk down south and cross the road to the National Museum (open 9 to 18 daily, R1). This large Malay building tastefully display very interesting exhibits. One hour here is a minimum !

- Go back to KL Lake Garden and take the time to relax around the 91.6 hectares of gardens and animals attractions.

- At the northern extremity, spot wild sculptures in a sculpted garden at the Asean Sculpture Garden and climb a small hill to the 15.54m high bronze National Monument.

<< Discover a few garden's sights - Walk back to Merdeka Square along Jalan Parliamen then head toward Chinatown to experience the busyness of Jalan Petaling's night market. Jalan Hang Lekir & Jalan Sultan host plenty of food stalls but remember to always clarify the price first.

- Have a good night sleep... A few sights ? - Petronas Twin Towers : Free / Open 10 to 12:45 (12:15 on Friday) & 15 to 16:45, closed on Monday / Ticket from 9:15 & 14:30 / Slippers not allowed in theory / Completed in 1996, they are, at 452m and 88 storey, the tallest buildings in the world. Visitors can unfortunately go only to the 41st floor's Skybridge but, at 170m high, it is already quite impressive. Problem is : it is very busy and it is not uncommon, in particular in the afternoon, to have to wait for hours. As you can enjoy the view 10mn only, this is a rather frustrating waste of time.

Showing up during weekday before 9:30 should however guarantee a minimum queue and an early appointment (you queue up to get a ticket fixing you an appointment for the lift) / Other attractions in or around include Suria KLCC (a luxurious shopping Mall), Galeri Petronas (3F, open 10 to 20 except Friday), Discovery Centre (4F) and the great KLCC Park with the As-Syakirin Mosque.

- KL Tower (Menara KL) : At 421m, this is Asia's tallest tower and the 4th tallest in the world. It offers by far the most striking panorama from 10 to 22 daily. It cost R8 but you do not need to pay if you have reserved a table at the revolving Indonesian restaurant (tel : 2451833). Problem : the not so impressive dinner buffet cost R85 !

- KL Lake Garden : A great relaxing park set up around two lakes and boosting a few attractions, usually open from 9 to 18. Those include : 800 varieties of orchids at the Orchid Garden (free except on WE), the Hibiscus Garden (idem), the Deer Park (free), 6000 butterflies and 15000 plants at the Butterfly Park (R5) and 5000 birds at the KL Bird Park (R3) plus fountains, boats to raw, green dinosaurs, soft running tracks, etc. Altogether, it is very easy to spend a few hours here...

Most buses leave from the scary Puduraya Bus station. With so many different counters offering so many destinations, it is a bit tricky to make a choice (if open, ask at the police or info counter for tips. Prices are basically the same but the state of the bus are sometimes different and schedules vary. If you book early, you may be able to shop around. If you wish to leave the same day, you may be relieved to hear that a company has got one seat left. It is always recommended to book as early as possible. The biggest & most reliable company by far is the Government's Transnational (big busy counters) with offices all over Malaysia. Plusliner (Counter 18, 1-800-887060) also covers a lot of destination and is sometimes cheaper.

Bus to Port Kelang (R2) and Banting (R3.9) leave all day long every 15-20mn from Kelang Bus Station.

To the airport, in addition to the solutions listed at the Airport Section, there is also apparently a bus service from Chan Sow Lin Station (Star Line). Buses were reported leaving every hour for R10. It takes 1h15.

Bus Schedules ? From Puduraya Bus Station To Price Class D Time Counter Nb Freq. Cameron Highland 12 ac 4-5 9,11,13:30,15:30 39,62 a few na Ipoh 9.5 ac 3 7:30 to 22:30 a few a lot 30mn Butterworth 16.5-18/20.2 ac/vip 5 9:30 to 23/9:30,17,23:30 a few +/3 hour/na Penang 19.5/22.1 ac/vip 5.5 9,21:30,22/9:30,17,23:30 Transnational 3/3 na Hat Yai 30 ac 8 22 25 a few na Melaka '7-8 vip 2 7:30 to 21 41,50,59 a lot hour Singapore 21.3-23 vip 5 8:30 to 24 14,25,33,44,45,52 a lot hour Mersing 16.5 ac 6 10:30,11,12:30,22:30,23 '30,36 a few na

Cherating 13.5 ac 6 '10,16:30,24 31 a few na

Notes : more buses, more companies & more destinations / To Singapore via Johor Bahru (R20, 4.5 hrs)

The trip to Cameron Highlands : SSSS / L&R / R12 / 4.5 hrs Before the fresh air, the gasping ! The journey indeed start at the infamously busy & suffocating Buduraya Bus Station. Buses leave from the underground and do so only after having filled the outside air with exhaust fumes for at least 10 minutes : the time it takes for the passengers to board and the AC to cool off the atmosphere a bit. Considering that the driver arrive and open the doors a few minutes before departure only, doctors advice not to show up there too early. I did not know about it.

I arrived at 8am, one hour before the scheduled departure time, in the hope that I could secure a seat on the right before checking some GH. But doors were locked and no driver was in sight until 8:55. By this time, most passengers were already queuing.

I managed however to get my right window seat. In theory, everyone has a seat reserved. In practice, there seem to be flexibility in switching seats as passengers do not really know what to expect (there was no drawing of the bus when buying the ticket).

We left 15mn late and I soon realized that sitting on the right would not be as nice as expected : the sun was on this side, the window curtain was already used by the front passenger and the air cond was not too refreshing. In fact, the bus wasn't as good as expected : seats were very low by the windows, the engine was looking for retirement and something was banging below at every right turn. But the seats did recline and the first piece of scenery was boring enough to allow for a good nap.

We stopped one hour after leaving for an unnecessarily 40mn long break to feed the driver. After a bit more of highways and sun, we finally reached the mountains at 11:50. I would finally spot something outside...

The first sight was however a few km later (36km before Tanah Rata) on the left : a big waterfall with lots of local tourists & rubbish around. Followed one hour of great forest views, exclusively on the right side. But, 5 km before reaching Tanah Rata, just after a small waterfall on the right, the most striking scenery were again on the left : the superb tea plantations panorama of Cameron Valley. We arrived at 13:30. Stomachs were happy to rest from the continuous turns, and the minds relieved to have survived the speedy crossing of vehicles (if you like scary experiences, seat by the driver).


The Roof, 2 Jl Telawi 4 for peeple watching BANGSAR - hangout area via LRT not far from CTR.

KUL is the main point of air entry to Malaysia. The city began as a small mining town at the spot where the Gombak and Klang rivers come together, but by the mid-1980s, Malaysia's economic success had turned the city into a sprawl of concrete and glass high-rises populated by people from all over the world. A bustling and cosmopolitan metropolis filled with beautiful traditional and colonial architecture, it's served as Malaysia's capital city since 1896, and though the seat of govt will soon move to nearby Putra Jaya, KUL will remain the bus capital of the country.

Kuala Lumpur originated from a small settlement, at which site the Masjid Jame, one of the oldest mosques in KL, now sits. Over time, as the settlement grew, the colonial buildings were built out from this centerpoint. The Merdeka Square, close to the Masjid and bounded by Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin and Jalan Kuching, became the center of the British colonial administration and social life.

The areas to the north and east of the colonial admin area are now built up with modern shopping malls and hotels. Chinatown, another historic district of the city, is just to the southeast of the colonial square. The central street in Chinatown is Jalan Petaling, where Chinese artisans, shops, and food stalls still rule the area, day and night. From the colonial square, if you travel south and southwest, you'll find the KUL train stn, the National Mosque (Masjid Negara), and the National Museum (Muzim Negara). Farther west is Lake Gardens, a large park that houses the city's bird park, butterfly park, and other gardens.

Wall St Ground floor, Menara TA One, 22 Jalan P. Ramlee No cover. Hours: Noon-1am. Talk about a funny theme place. Wall $t. is a bar and rest designed to appeal to your yuppie side, right down to the TV that flash the drink prices, Wall Street-style, as they fluctuate according to the "market." Downstairs, the bar enter-tainment features both a DJ and live bands. Music ranges from light jazz to acid jazz. It's a good place to unwind and chat about the day's news.

Bier Keller Ground floor, Menara Haw Par, Jalan Sultan Ismail Beer Gardens Phone 03/201-3313 Prices: No cover. Hours: Daily noon-1am Done up like a beer cellar, Bier Keller serves German beers in tankards and traditional German cuisine such as sauerkraut and beer bread. There's a DJ spinning popular music.

Hard Rock Cafe - 03/244-4152 Wisma Concorde, Jalan Sultan Ismail Bars & Pubs Phone

Location: next to Concorde Hotel Prices: No cover. The KUL version of this intl chain has live bands from 10pm onward playing everything from classic rock to the latest chart toppers. The clientele similarly goes from thirsty yuppies to party animal locals and tourists. The bar is shaped like a Fender guitar.

owering Savings in Kuala Lumpur FRUGAL TRAVELER / By DAISANN McLANE

KUALA LUMPUR," said the saleswoman on the other end of the phone line at the airline ticket consolidators. "Hmmmm," I answered.

Daisann McLane for NY Times Colonial architecture near Little India.

It was a city that hardly figured in my imagination, except for one thing. Well, actually, two very big things: the Petronas Twin Towers, completed in 1996, the tallest skyscrapers in the world. I'd seen a photograph of these two curvy, tapered 1,483-foot spires (33 feet taller than the Sears Tower) on the cover of Scientific American last year, and my New Yorker's pride bristled. As a teen-ager I had eagerly tracked the World Trade Center as it slowly rose to resculpt the Manhattan skyline. Now my hometown twin towers had been overtaken by this pair of sassy (but, I had to admit, beautiful) upstarts. I was curious to check out the competition, although not enough to go halfway round the world to Malaysia's capital. But for a flight to Bali in June, one of the best deals was on Malaysia Airlines: $1,150 from Newark to Denpasar, via Dubai and Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur -- Could I stop over there for an extra charge? The sales agent responded with a frugal traveler's favorite words: "It's free." I shuffled my itinerary to include a stop of four days in early July on my way back from Bali. I did some research, and found that Kuala Lumpur translates into "muddy confluence," not exactly something that makes you want to pack your bags. But reading further, I became more intrigued. Only 130 years ago, K.L., as it's known locally, was a rough and steamy riverside trading post run by Malay royalty and Chinese merchants. The city's leaders have included Chinese gang barons, British colonials and heroes of Malaysian independence. Unlike Singapore, K.L. still has whole streets of colonial buildings -- and a fascinating ethnic landscape of Malays, Chinese and Indians, living in relative harmony. The presence of new skyscrapers often signals that a city is changing the way it thinks of itself. Right now, Kuala Lumpur is having one of its biggest years ever. It is about to become the first Asian city to be host to the Commonwealth Games (in mid-September). The Malaysian Government, riding the booming Asian economy earlier in the 1990's, had seized the occasion to promote the multi-ethnic, officially Islamic country and its capital on the international stage. The Petronas Twin Towers were only part of a construction frenzy that included stadiums, highways, hotels, mass transit -- and a huge international airport, which, I ruefully discovered, was scheduled to open only six days before my arrival. In conjunction with the Games, the Government had also organized a year of cultural activities, the Commonwealth Cultural Festival 98. The long list ran the gamut from a "Surge to the Next Millennium" exhibit in the National Library and a Malaysian Fruit Expo to -- my favorite -- The Second Asia Pacific Harmonica Festival and Competition. The Asian monetary crisis has since sucked some of the air out of Kuala Lumpur's Commonwealth balloon, with the Malaysian ringgit dropping about 40 percent relative to the dollar within the last nine months. Hotel bookings were slow -- bad news for K.L., good news for me. When I arrived in Bali, I read the Singapore edition of the International Herald Tribune and saw advertisments for discounts of 40 to 50 percent at some of Kuala Lumpur's luxury international hotels. I saved them, along with articles reporting confusion, delays, baggage mix-ups and ground-transportation chaos in the new airport, which had opened almost simultaneously with Hong Kong's. As I checked in for the two-hour flight from Bali, I decided to live dangerously and checked my single bag. I spent a nail-biting half hour at a baggage carousel (which was, it seemed, miles from the gate by train and people mover) but eventually my bag emerged intact. The wait gave me a chance to admire the vast, empty and hushed space of the airport, where Bach murmured soothingly. Figuring out how to get into town -- about 50 miles away -- was a challenge. At the transportation desk, a harried dispatcher told me that, no, the rail link to Kuala Lumpur was not finished, and that I could take an express bus that cost $5 and would let me off in a suburb, where I would have to look for a private taxi to my hotel. The suburb appeared nowhere on my map, so I was reluctant to jump on the bus. The only other choice, she said, was to buy a voucher for a private taxi for $25. Ouch. It was getting dark, and I was eager to be on my way, so I caved in and bought the voucher, figuring I'd compensate by staying in a low-priced hotel. I called the Swiss Inn, a businessman's hotel in Chinatown, and reserved a deluxe single for $33. Only about 250 square feet, but modern and clean, my no-frill room with two single beds looked out over the city's busiest nighttime happening -- the Chinatown night market. I rushed downstairs and followed the crowds down narrow Petaling Street, made even narrower by the stands of street vendors selling everything from a scary-looking plastic box of stringy material labeled "meat floss" to row upon row of suspicious-looking displays of "Calvin Klein" sportswear. Directly across the street from the hotel, I ducked into a storefront that contained the Petaling Plaza Gourmet Food Center. It was a sort of food court, with four concessionaires offering Chinese and Malaysian food, beer and ice cream. I ordered a tasty Chinese vegetarian plate heaped with rice plus several different richly seasoned stir-fry mixtures of seitan, textured tofu and bok choy. With a Malaysian Tiger beer to wash it down, dinner came to $5.50.

Daisann McLane for The New York Times The Petronas Twin Towers, the tallest structures in the world, take their form from Islamic art.

I was so delighted by the food, the bazaar and the people watching -- the shoppers ranged from Malay women in chiffon head scarves to tattooed Chinese teen-agers -- that I let my guard slip when I saw a vendor selling a T-shirt emblazoned with the Petronas Twin Towers. I had to have it. "Fifteen ringgit," said the T-shirt vendor -- about $3.80. Without thinking I started to pull the bills from my bag, and he laughed at me. "I give you for 12 ringgit." My face fell in embarrassment. Tired and overeager, I had forgotten the cardinal rule of frugal traveling: In the market, you bargain. I decided to call it a night and went back up to my room, which soon proved to be less of a bargain than it seemed. The walls and ceilings in the Swiss Inn were so thin that I could hear, if not understand, every word of the Malaysian couple arguing in the room above. Whenever they stopped, the electronic burble of a computer game filled in the gaps. Since I always pack earplugs, I managed to sleep. But in the morning, I decided to move. Regent, Hilton, Marriott -- just about every major luxury chain had a hotel in Kuala Lumpur, and just about all offered special summer rates that, combined with the strong dollar, put high-end luxury within my budget. The super-luxurious Regent, my first choice, offered a special of $130 a night, including a free limousine to that faraway airport. Not bad, but I wanted to stay under $100 a night, so I kept phoning around. The Hilton quoted a rate of $92. Then I hit the jackpot at the Kuala Lumpur Shangri-La, part of the Asian-based luxury chain. Rooms there were $90.60 a night, with tax and breakfast buffet -- and a 30 percent discount on food and beverages in the hotel's four restaurants. Could I check out at 6 P.M. on my final day? (I had a late flight to New York.) No problem, said the reservations clerk, who added the clincher: "We have rooms with a great view of the Petronas Twin Towers."

The Shangri-La lived up to its name. From the instant I was greeted by the concierge in the elegant marbled lobby, my trip was charmed. Though part of me had felt guilty about trading up from the Swiss Inn, I soon realized that in K.L. right now, the high end actually gives the better value per dollar. Whenever I set out on my morning rounds, the Shangri-La staff snapped into action, getting me a taxi (most rides cost less than $1.50), translating my wishes into Bahasa Malaysia (also called Malay) if the driver didn't understand English, answering my questions. I basked in my huge, tastefully understated room with its king-sized bed, marble bath with separate tub and shower and wall of windows in which the towers loomed, always there for leisurely contemplation. "Twin corncobs," said one of my guidebooks -- and I could see the resemblance. But as I stared out my window I grew fonder and fonder of these sparkly behemoths, whose kernel-nubbed exteriors had been inspired, according to their architect, Cesar Pelli, by Islamic geometry. Like my favorite skyscrapers, the Empire State and the Chrysler buildings, the Petronas Towers had personality. You could imagine them in a glass snowball, or dangling from a key chain. Earrings and salt-and-pepper shakers also seemed promising commercial possibilities -- but alas, the Kuala Lumpur tourism industry hadn't yet caught on to the building's souvenir potential. Nor had Petronas, the state oil and gas company that is the building's major owner, grasped the main tourist appeal of skyscrapers: the ride to the top. On my pilgrimage there, I found they had no observation deck (and according to a company spokeswoman, none is planned.) I had to content myself with gazing at them from my window, and later from the top of the Kuala Lumpur Tower ($4), a big communications needle that's not quite as tall as Petronas (the observation deck is just over 900 feet up). But it offers the only bird's-eye view of the city -- at least it does in the absence of the city's infamous white haze, a mixture of local smog with smoke from Indonesian forest fires. In the four days I was in town, I never saw blue sky -- but the sunsets, as you'd expect, were otherworldly.

Down at ground level, K.L. was growing on me. It wasn't great for culture, at least by European or American standards, but made up for it with fascinating architecture, world-class food and terrific shopping. I lost myself for hours in Chinatown and Little India, popping in and out of narrow Art Deco and Colonial shop buildings, and stopping for a moment of meditation in the 125-year-old Sri Mahamariaman Hindu temple. Ducking into an Indian pharmacy that smelled of incense and jasmine, I contemplated bottles of brown, viscuous herbal tonic. On Jalan Leboh Ampang, a street lined with gold merchants, I bargained hard with two Chinese saleswomen for a 22-karat bracelet, and bought when the price fell to $8.75 a gram, less than half the going rate in New York. We sealed the deal with an icy glass of chrysanthemum tea. I couldn't stop eating. So many flavors, so little time. For breakfast, I would hit the groaning-board complimentary buffet at the Shangri-La, with everything from Malaysian coconut rice and anchovy-paste curry to Chinese rice porridge with pickled eggs. At lunch, I'd pop into the Rumah Makan Sri Bintang cafeteria to savor a Malaysian roti canai ($1.50), flaky bread served with curry. Or, moving upscale, I splurged on an immense buffet lunch at the auditorium-sized Seri Melayu restaurant, where, for $10, I feasted on dozens of dishes I'd never eaten -- or seen -- before, like the piquant, yummy jelatah, a salad of cucumber, pineapples, onion, pickles and chili in a fish-tamarind sauce. My mouth kept watering, my stomach kept protesting that it was full. Three days may be enough time to see Kuala Lumpur, but not enough time to taste it. The concierge reconfirmed my flight, found a cheaper airport limo ($15) and arranged an in-room oil massage ($32). I was sad to leave. Twenty-four hours later, bleary-eyed from jet lag, I was deposited by the Olympia Airport Shuttle from Newark ($10) in lower Manhattan at the foot of a pair of huge towers that suddenly seemed too boxy, too . . . square. Some corncobs, I thought, would look nice right here.

The bottom line: bargains in a booming city On Aug. 11, the State Department said that the Government had learned that there may be a threat to United States interests in Malaysia -- as well as Egypt and Yemen -- which could include attacks on buildings. It advised all Americans in these countries to use caution and review their security practices. Budget During my three and a half days in Kuala Lumpur, I spent an average of $79 a day, including hotel, meals, taxes and service charges, local transportation and activities. My credit cards converted prices at 4.15 ringgit to the dollar.

Accommodations The Swiss Inn, 62 Jalan Sultan, telephone (60-3) 232-3333, fax (60-3) 201-6699, is a popular budget hotel for Malaysians traveling on business. Clean and well-situated in the heart of Chinatown, it has a bare-bones feel (beware the thin walls). I chose a deluxe room because the standards didn't have windows, and paid $33.70, with a rather skimpy Continental breakfast. The Shangri-La, 11 Jalan Sultan Ismail, (60-3) 232-2388, fax (60-3) 230 1514, is a luxury hotel with all the trimmings: pool, fitness center, four restaurants, concierge and business center. My standard single room was discounted at a summer rate of $78.70; with taxes, the total was $90.60. The package included a sumptuous breakfast buffet and 30 percent off all meals and room service. I found the just-opened Hotel Noble, on the fourth floor at 165 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, (60-3) 925-7111, fax (60-3) 925-7222, on a stroll through Little India. It's on a par with the Swiss Inn: tiny rooms but in better condition, and quieter surroundings. A deluxe room costs $32.77, with breakfast. Restaurants Across the street from the Petaling Street entrance of the Swiss Inn, the Petaling Plaza Gourmet Food Center serves delicious cafeteria-style Chinese and Malaysian meals, at around $4 a plate. Rumah Makan Sri Bintang, 11-13 Jalan Melayu in Little India, looks unprepossessing, but the food is wonderful: three or four different cooks serve a variety of Malaysian and Indian specials daily, cafeteria style. At lunch, Indian curry chicken and nan bread is $1.60. The amazing lunch buffet at the Seri Melayu, 1 Jalan Conlay, may be worth a trip to Malaysia all by itself. The basic buffet costs around $6; a drink and taxes will bring it to $10. With so many immigrants from Tamil Nadu, you would expect to find a great south Indian restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. Annalakshmi, 44-46 Jalan Maarof in the Bangsar Baru district, telephone (60-3) 282-3799, serves an Indian vegetarian thali, or set meal, that is the equal of anything in Madras. Lunch is $6.

Getting There For reasons that no one could explain, the official airport limousine from Kuala Lumpur's new international airport costs $22 into the city, but $16.50 to the airport. This is for the premier service; in early July when I traveled, the lower-priced budget service was unavailable. A city bus that leaves the terminals every 15 minutes ($6) deposits you in the suburb of Jalan Duta, where you must find a taxi into Kuala Lumpur.

Beginner's Guide to Cruising and Carousing in Kuala Lumpur By SHIRLEY BRADY

The most popular slogan rallying Malaysians in Kuala Lumpur and throughout the country these days is the Bahasa expression, "Malaysia Boleh." Loosely translated as "Malaysia Can Do," the government-spun phrase evokes the pride and confidence that Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad has sought to instill in his country's 21 million people. One thing Malaysia is already doing is driving ahead with core infrastructure projects to improve road, rail and air links to Kuala Lumpur. The new international airport is operational, upgraded highways and secondary roads have eased getting around the city and the newly opened light-rail transit system looks like a winner--a trio of achievements sure to be appreciated by residents and visitors alike.

While traffic around the city has improved, rush hour can still be punishing for downtown drivers. If you can, use those congested periods to check out the city's various delights. K.L. can be a treat to explore on foot; it's the perfect way to discover the capital's rich roster of attractions and activities, mouthwatering meals, vibrant nightlife and the friendly smiles of locals--your reward for taking the time to explore one of Asia's prime urban attractions.

A favorite way to while away an afternoon here is strolling and trolling for bargains. The main shopping hubs are in the Bukit Bintang area, nestled between two lavish landmarks, the Ritz-Carlton and Regent hotels. Meanwhile, a few blocks away on Jalan Ampang you can find the Kuala Lumpur City Center, located at the base of the stratospheric Petronas Twin Towers. The KLCC boasts department stores, boutiques, a cinema, a science center and an art gallery. Its gardens include a "dancing" fountain, a water playground for kids and a refreshing spot for pooped parents to take a break. Visitors can also stop for lunch at one of the KLCC's many great eateries, such as Piazza Cavalini, which also serves a great selection of coffee and tea--an ideal way to rejuvenate yourself.

Interested in a more traditional shopping expedition? Malaysia is famed for its pewterware, so make time to visit the Royal Selangor factory in Setapak (and pick up a few pieces, which range anywhere from 10 bucks to thousands of dollars). And check out Jalan Pahang, home to merchants selling bolts of beautiful hand-blocked batik fabrics. Shops in the area often sell exquisite kain songket--swaths of cloth interwoven with gold threads, traditionally made into elegant ladies' sarongs. In the past, only the country's richest folks could afford it; now the material is within nearly anyone's reach. This area is also known as Little India for its many South Asian shops and restaurants (and the impressive Indian mosque). On Saturday evenings, local vendors set up stalls for an impromptu street market.

Another impressive sight is the world's tallest flagpole, which soars over Dataran Merdeka, or Independence Square. If you're lucky, an open-air performance in the square may enliven your visit. Photographers, take note: across the river is the Art Deco-style Central Market. For striking examples of Moorish architecture, visit the Jamek Mosque or the city's old railway station. Any itinerary should also include the lovely Lake Gardens, home to a bird park, a butterfly farm, a deer sanctuary and orchid gardens. The Batu Caves, a Hindu temple complex featuring rock formations and scenes from Indian mythology, is worth the 40-minute drive from the city center. And for an untraditional outing, don skates and take a spin around the ice rinks at the Mines Shopping Fair or the Sunway Pyramid--the latter mock winterlude also features an amusement park.

When you have worked up an appetite, stop for a cheap and cheerful meal at one of Kuala Lumpur's numerous (and safe) roadside food stalls. To find one, ask your taxi driver or inquire at any gas station. If you're not sure what to order, most stall-owners will let you taste before you eat.

Still hungry for action? Check out when the pros will be putting K.L.'s new Formula One circuit at Sepang to the test. Located beside the new international airport, it puts a whole new spin on fly'n'drive vacations.

 South to Kuala Lumpur and Singapore by Gary Hacker

Rusty has combed almost every city in SE Asia and has uncovered their innermost secrets. When he asked my friend Bob and I to accompany him on a visit to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, we jumped at the chance. We call Rusty "The Shadow"; originally from Atlanta, Georgia, he has spent years traveling through Asia and his magnetic personality and great sense of humor make him the perfect guide to uncover hidden places in foreign cities.

The Menara Tower features a public observation platform with dynamic views over the entire city. We left Bangkok on Swiss Air, according to Rusty a cheap link to Singapore and only a two-hour flight (Baht 5,000rt). The new Singapore Airport is huge and an adventure in itself. So many duty free shops and tiny places to eat, we made a mental note to arrive early for our return flight. Taxis carry an airport surcharge and extra charges for the commute hours. We checked into the Tai Hoe Hotel in the Indian Quarter of SIN, close to downtown and to the discount electronic warehouses. The Tai Hoe offers special rates for Internet reservations (s$58) and although the rooms are small, they are bright and clean. Tap water in Singapore is clean and safe to drink. The current exchange rate is Singapore $1.74 to one US Dollar. Our first stop of the evening was to sip a drink at the Long Bar at the famous Raffles Hotel. The courtyard and common areas are extravagant and the center garden offers a place to relax and chat. For dinner, we headed for a little known Chinese restaurant next to the tall Sim Lim Center, a complex specializing in everything electronic. Unpretentious with straight back chairs and Formica tables, the mouth-watering aroma of Asian spices and food saut?ing on many pans, drew us to the entrance. (Sun Chui Yuen Restoran) Rusty ordered an elaborate spread of exotic cuisine and we dug in with gusto savoring every morsel. We left too full to even think of desert; following "The Shadow", we proceeded down some dark alleys to a small below level bar filled with happy locals enjoying a wide array of beers and Asian tidbits. It was almost midnight and with eyes drooping, we headed back to our hotel.

Tramway up to the majestic heights of Genting Highlands The next day was spent at Sim Lim Center, looking at stereo components and comparing prices to Thailand. The Center is a wonderland of hand phones, hi-fi stuff and computer accessories. I found a sought after CD burner at an amazingly low price and Bobby discovered some strong self powered speakers at an excellent value. Rusty had his own errands and Bobby and I were left to wander around the city and shop in the local malls and specialty shops. Aside from electronics, we found Singapore to be more expensive overall than Thailand and definitely lacking the smiles. That evening, we were taken to a most unusual restaurant. The Red Book (or House of Mau) is like stepping into China; the d?cor features paintings of Mau and large murals of Tienemen Square depicting communist teachings. The bar offered an array of cocktails and the food was delicious. A very unusual atmosphere and worth seeing. (51 Telok Ayer St.)

The twin Petrona Towers dazzle in the sunlight The same night we experienced one of the most superlative adventures of our trip. Rusty led us to the worlds only "Night Safari", a jungle of nocturnal animals in their natural environment located about 35 minutes out of town. Under the magical night sky with the moon and stars above, we embarked down a trail with just enough lighting to discover the many unusual and unknown species of animals, most at very close range. Paths wind through the dense foliage built through the vastness of a national wildlife park and the darkness magnifies all six senses resulting in a nature walk that will be long remembered. A tram is available for the less adventurous but does not include many of the dark corners and dimly lit forest scenes. The walk is about 1.7 kilometers, all fairly level, but seems much shorter. A large brown bear emerged from behind a tree and several tigers with their cubs lounged just feet from the footpath. As we passed a small creek full of boa constrictors, I tickled Rusty's bare ankle with a long stick and he screamed with shock and jumped high in the air to everyone's delight. An interesting place to wander in the afternoon is along Clarke Quay next to the Singapore River. There are numerous small bars and nightclubs that cater to the young crowd, among those "The Crazy Elephant", "The Blues & Booze" and the "The Rachet". Rusty's favorite was the "Black Penny" where we had delicious "Bacon Toasties", thin-cut grilled French bread with crisp bacon and tomato covered with slices of melted Swiss cheese, yum. Another great find was "Spageddies Italian Kitchen" located out in Tanglin Mall about a 20-minute taxi ride from City Center.

Enjoying the delicious steaks at the Coliseum Cafe The following days were spent roaming around Singapore exploring unknown shops and restaurants that Rusty had found on earlier trips. A modern people mover is the MRT underground, extremely fast with a train every few minutes. Fares range from s$.70 to s$1.60. A few days later, we departed on the Kuala Lumpur-Singapore Express, an early morning bus for a six-hour trip to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (s$25). This bus has only three large seats across and good picture windows for viewing the passing roadside and small cities. We arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the early afternoon and checked into the Fortuna Hotel, another one of our leader's great finds. The city was a big surprise to both Bobby and me. We had pictured it as a step down from Bangkok but the unusual architecture and wide streets with good traffic flow were a cut above anything in Thailand.

The Red Book (or House of Mau) is like stepping into China Kuala Lumpur is a city of magnificent high-rises, each one different and a masterpiece of architecture. The twin Petrona Towers dazzle in the sunlight and reflections from their bright silver exterior distinguish them from all others. The shopping malls try to outdo each other with tall columns and cut glass ceilings with pinpoints of light along the tiers of trendy shops. Sidewalks are crowded with busy shoppers and walkways cross under the busy streets or connect the malls with high flyovers. The rapid transit system is clean and efficient and the four legs of the line cover most of the city. Even the underground loading platforms are air-conditioned. The Fortuna Hotel is located in the center of town within walking distance to most attractions. Rusty bargained for a rate of 102 Ringgits (about US$27) including breakfast and the spacious rooms had bathtubs and elegant wood trim. The Fortuna, like most local hotels, features a "health club" that offers various massages and baths; however, Pattaya has spoiled us and we found the prices for the services to be far above what we are used to paying.

Looking up at the Menara Tower There are a number of restaurants near the hotel and one is called "The Ship" at #1 Scotts Road. Prices are reasonable and the atmosphere and food were tops. Internet services abound but it takes some tries to find one with efficient computers. Just around the corner from the hotel and upstairs we found a jewel with quick machines for 4 Ringgits an hour. Our first day in Kuala Lumpur we elected to visit "The Menara Tower", a spectacular landmark in the center of the city. At 421 meters above the ground, it is one of the tallest concrete towers in the world. The structure was built in 1996 to enhance the quality of communications and the Tower Head features a public observation platform with dynamic views over the entire city. We took one of the four elevators to the top and our ears plugged and popped during the rapid ascent. A fire had broken out in a residential area to the East and we watched as fire equipment rushed across town and we could see the flames as they broke through the roofs of the structures. The views were stupendous and I was glad to establish the city boundaries before we began our exploration. We set out on foot and walked along tree-covered streets and through freshly landscaped parks and along the narrow streets of Chinatown. We recognized an enchantment about the city, the air was fresh, the sun shone brightly overhead and we walked late into the afternoon before returning to the hotel. By the way, the current exchange rate in KL is 3.8 Ringgits to US$1 making everything quite reasonable.

Promoting the Petronas F1 Malaysian Grand Prix There are flashy franchised American restaurants on the street corners of Jalan Sultan Avenue and we elected to sample some tidbits at cocktail time, settling for mediocre appetizers and expensive drinks. We found the local Malay food far more appealing. A bright sunny morning and we negotiated with a taxi (Rg70) to take us out of town and up to the majestic heights of Genting Highlands. Rusty had discovered a dazzling casino complex atop a towering mountain and a tramway carried us the rest of the way across majestic canyons to a platform high above the terrain. We had lunch at the Friendship Chinese Restaurant and nibbled at trays of Dim Sum and sipped large glasses of Chinese tea. The views are overwhelming. The casino is huge with colored lighting and busy tables in each of four large areas. We had to rent batik shirts for Rg3 in order to gain entrance. The roulette and blackjack tables stretched as far as we could see. The gambling spirit was intoxicating but we made our small contribution and left before suffering any sizeable losses. We took the tram back down the mountain and caught a tour bus to town. We got off at an early stop on Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman to visit the Coliseum Caf? and Hotel that Rusty had discovered on his last trip. The historic structure was built in 1921 and is well known among the locals of the city. The bar d?cor is magnificent. The old wood paneling and high ceilings date back to a period long forgotten. After sipping cocktails and nibbling some mouthwatering onion strings, we decided to adjourn to the long rectangular restaurant and try one of the Coliseum's famous steaks. Overseeing the white linen covered tables were crisp dressed waiters in white starched shirts and black ties. We weren't disappointed, as the steaks were served on sizzling black platters with an unusual dark gravy that enhanced the tender beef. Platters of roast potatoes and crisp fresh vegetables covered our table.

We had to rent batik shirts for Rg3 in order to gain entrance to the casino A few days later it was time for Bobby and I to leave the city and make our way back to Singapore for our return flight to Bangkok. Rusty was flying back to the States from Kuala Lumpur so we elected to take the train back to Singapore. First Class train fare was 68 Ringgit giving us wide seats with footrests and excellent air con. The scenery was different from road travel and we captured the backcountry, creeks and streams and isolated ranches and villages along the railway. We arrived in time to meet a friend of Bobby's who lived in Singapore and took us to an out-of-the-way seafood restaurant. Located down an alley and on the fourth floor of a residential building, it featured a romantic atmosphere and a wide selection of fresh fish. The following day we left on our flight to Bangkok and sipped wine as we talked about Singapore and Malaysia and our intention to return again one day soon.

\12 Kuala Lumpur history

Kuala Lumpur, or literally 'muddy confluence', the capital city of Malaysia, owes its existence to a group of miners, mining for tin in the surrounding valley. Taking its name after the confluence of rivers Gombak and Klang, Kuala Lumpur began as a small settlement where supplies and labourers for the miners land on the riverbank. <Picture>Click on imageMalays were the first settlers along the banks as they grew food, collect jungle produce and to work alluvial surface tin ore deposits. In 1857, Raja Abdullah, a Malay-chief, sent a party of 87 Chinese miners to the area then vaguely known as Hulu Kelang. This party disembarked at the Gombak-Klang river junction and set off to prospect.

By 1860, two Hakka traders set up a shop at the river junction on the right-hand side of the Klang river (facing upstream) since most of the tracks to the mines start from that bank. The tracks, which ran from here to the mines, are preserved along the lines of Jalan Ampang, Jalan Pudu and Jalan Petaling. The modern day passer-by that goes along these roads can be sure that he follows the weary footsteps of heavily laden porters of over 130 years ago. As the settlement grew, it took the shape around a square. On one side was the riverbank, and on the higher ground parallel with the river was the main thoroughfare, known for many years as the High Street (now Jalan Tun H.S Lee), apparently because it stood on the ground above the expected flood level when the river rose. <Picture>Click on imageThere was a Malay quarter too. The Malays lived apart since the pigs, raised by the Chinese for meat, were offensive to them. The boundary between the Malay quarter and the Chinese settlement around the square was a rough track, later to be called Java Street (and then Mountbatten Road and nowadays Jalan Tun Perak). In the Malay village there was a mosque, with a burial ground on the triangle of land that lay between the Gombak and Klang rivers (where the Jamek Mosque now stands). The whole village stood on the east side of the Klang river, for convenience access to mines by tracks leading to Ampang, Batu, and Pudu.

The Malay community was an active and busy part of Kuala Lumpur in the 1870s. When the American naturalist William Hornaday visited the town in July 1878 he noted that 'all along the river bank, the houses of the Malays stand in a solid row, on piles 10 feet high, directly over the swift and muddy current'. This was the Sumatran Malay village north of Java Street. As Kuala Lumpur lay within the district of Klang under the control of its Malay chief, he had stationed a small garrison n a stockade on rising ground (in earlier days this was 'Weld Hill', and nowadays is known as 'Bukit Mahkamah', crowned by the towering Maybank Building).

The great event of the 1870s was the visit of Sultan Abdul Samad, the first Malay Ruler to see the town, in May 1879. The Malays of the interior came in the thousands to pay their loyal respects to this distant, but venerated, potentate, who as a recluse reigned from a capital far away in uuala Langat. Commercial and political logic dictated that Kuala Lumpur should now be the state capital - and so it became in March 1880. In 1888, the first proper bridge connecting the two sides of Kuala Lumpur was built using imported iron girders, with a 90-foot span, where the present Market Street (Leboh Pasar Besar) bridge now stands. The first railway line was opened to traffic in 1886, connecting Kuala Lumpur and Klang to the west. The first locomotive was named the 'Lady Clarke' (after the wife of the Governor in 1874). It took 95 minutes to traverse 20 miles (32 kilometers). Within three years the railway was yielding an annual surplus of 28 per cent on the capital invested in it. The 'Lady Clarke' was withdrawn from service in 1893 after a collision with another engine coming in the opposite direction. Until road transport on a substantial scale arrived after 1918, the railway was THE best mode of transport in Kuala Lumpur.

The original Malay quarter along the riverbank north of Java Street, preserved its character but lacked space for expansion. This led to the creation, in 1902, of a new settlement further north. This new settlement is called Kampung Baru. The small Indian community had no recognised 'quarter'. Its main focus was perhaps the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in the High Street (Jalan Tun H.S Lee) that was founded by Thambusamy Pillai. <Picture>Click on imageFor the European community, the Police Parade Ground (now Dataran Merdeka) was the centre of social life. Here, in the course of the 1890s, were built the Selangor Club, St Mary's Church, the Chartered Bank building, and the new government offices (Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad, or Kuala Lumpur's 'Big Ben') which was completed in 1897. The Selangor Club was opened to all members of the community although the Malays and the Chinese did not use the club much. The senior members of the European community too were not enthusiastic to socialise with their lesser European mortals, leading to the founding of the Lake Club, in the Lake Gardens in 1890, with rates of subscription set to discourage applications from less well-paid colleagues. The Lake Gardens (Taman Tasik Perdana) was developed by Alfred Venning in 1888 (Venning had originally been a planter in Sri Lanka). Another European who had a real concern for the improvement of the town was H.F Bellamy, who raised and led a volunteer fire brigade. Another prominent European was John Robson, a Selangor administrator in 1889 and worked for the Selangor Journal in 1892. In 1896, he borrowed money from friends and used the loan to set up the first Selangor newspaper, the Malay Mail. With the advent of the Malay Mail, the Selangor Journal had served its purpose and was discontinued.

The most dramatic event of the period was the flood of December 1926. There had been floods before but December 1926 was 'the mother and father' of all floods. After that, a much more drastic straightening of the river channel created an effective outlet for the floodwater coming down from the hills above Kuala Lumpur. It was tested successfully by the floods of 1930 when a tiger was observed in mid-stream being swept downriver at speed - the last occasion when a tiger at liberty - more or less - was seen in central Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur, which began as a settlement, grew into a town, became Selangor's state capital in March 1880, the capital of the Federated Malay States in 1896, and the nation's capital in August 1957, became a city and declared a Federal Territory in 1974.

Amidst the city of Kuala Lumpur stands the Menara Kuala Lumpur at 515m above sea level. Majestically poised at a breathtaking height of 421m, the Tower doubles as Kuala Lumpur's best known ambassador. Situated atop Bukit Nanas at 94m above sea level, it is on higher ground than the Twin Towers of Kuala Lumpur. Menara Kuala Lumpur was constructed as a telecommunications tower to upgrade the quality of telecomm and the clarity of broadcast trans-missions. Undoubtedly, Menara Kuala Lumpur marks the start of a milestone in the telecomm arena.

Menara Kuala Lumpur is one of the tallest concrete towers in the world, standing at 421m and built with 45,000 cubic metres of sturdy concrete. Designed with vertical ribs on the external surface, the Tower weighs 100,000 tonnes and was built on no-piling, freestanding land. Menara Kuala Lumpur opulently stands as the tallest tower in SE Asia. Menara Kuala Lumpur ranks fourth amongst the tallest telecomm towers in the world and was constructed over a period of four years and completed in May 1996. Menara KUL is designed to withstand wind pressures of up to 90mph. Menara Kuala Lumpur is a member of the presti-gious World Federation of Great Towers.

The four tallest towers in the world are CN Tower in Canada at 553m, Ostankino Tower in Russia at 537m, Shanghai Tower in China at 450m followed by Menara KUL in Malaysia at 421m.

The Construction of Menara KUL. Menara Kuala Lumpur, the nation's spectacular tower, was designed by the local firm of Kumpulan Senireka Sdn. Bhd. and constructed by Wayss & Freytag to provide the nation with a telecomm and broadcasting tower. It is one of the tallest concrete towers in the world at 421 metres and also the fourth tallest telecomm tower in the world.

The construction of Menara KUL which began on Oct 1991, was a 3-phase process. The first phase was the widening of Jalan Punchak and the excavation of soil from the construction site. This phase went on until 15 Aug 1992.

The final height of the tower, 421m above the ground. Lastly the Installation of the facilities and amenties executed to ensure comfort and safety. Menara Kuala Lumpur was officially opened by the Prime Minister on 1 Oct 1996. Among the distinguished guests to the Tower were the Yang di-Pertuan Agung Tuanku Jaafar and Raja Pemaisuri Agung Tuanku Najihah; the wives of the Sultan of Brunei, DYMM Paduka Seri Baginda Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha and DYTM Pengiran Isteri Hajah Mariam.


\13 KUL history and news

KUL reported 100 dead from nipah (paramyoxovirus) between Oct/Mar 99 with twice as many hospitalized in KUL area. Cause is culex mosquitoe (bite) in rural infestated areas. Affected states are pig farms in Perak and Negri Sembilang. They killed a million pigs to curb it. Said to be carried by bats. 5/99.

In 130 years, Kuala Lumpur has grown from nothing to a modern, bustling city of well over a million people. Superficially, KL may appear to be just another modern Asian city of gleaming skyscrapers, but it retains much of the character and local colour that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as Singapore. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its centre, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India.

History: Kuala Lumpur came into being in the late 1860s when a band of prospectors in search of tin landed at the meeting point of the Kelang and Gombak rivers and imaginatively named the place Kuala Lumpur - `Muddy Convergence'. More than half of those first arrivals died of malaria and other tropical diseases, but the tin they discovered in Ampang attracted more miners and KL quickly became a noisy, brawling, violent boom town.

Shifting between colonial powers - largely at the mercy of events in Europe - the whole Malaysia peninsula came under British rule in 1913, when it was known as British Malaya. The economy prospered; by the commencement of WWII, Malaya supplied nearly 40% of the world's rubber and 60% of its tin. This pre-war boom period also saw massive movements of Chinese and Indian nationals to the region. By 1931, the Chinese outnumbered the indigenous Malays. The war had a devastating effect on Malaya, which fell to the Japs with relative ease. It took Jap forces just a mth to repel the Brits and move into KUL. A month later, the Japs were at SIN.

Following WWII, the British inherited a nation brimming with racial tension. Chinese guerillas who had earlier fought the Japs turned on the British, prompting the declaration of `the Emergency' - a state that lasted a decade. When Malaya gained independence in 1955, a coalition of Malays, Indians and Chinese assumed power, although the constitution granted indigenous Malays special privileges. In 1963 Malaysia came into being, combining Malaya, SIN, Sarawak and Sabah (Brunei pulled out at the last moment). As soon as the new nation was formed, the Philippines laid claim to Sabah, while Indonesia laid claim to the whole `East Malaysia' region. British troops in the region took three years to quell the threat. At the same time, a dispute erupted between SIN and Malaya over pro-Malayan policies. SIN was kicked out of the union in 1965.

Although Malaysia was by the mid-60s a politically united country, internal political and social problems continued. Despite the luxury of legal privileges, Malays had a very weak hold on Malaysia's economy. In 1969 only 1.5% of company assets in Malaysia were held by Malays, and they had a per-capita income that was less than 50% of non-Malays. Despite this, there was still much resentment directed towards the Malays, spilling over into bloody riots following the 1969 election. From then until now, successive governments have attempted to gradually legislate away inequities between races in Malaysia. Running alongside this push for equality is a strengthening Islamic resurgence. Many fear that a growing religious divide might reverse the trend towards peace and economic stability in Malaysia. A full-blown Islamic revival threatens to adversely affect Malaysia's economy, and widen the rift between Malays and ethnic Chinese.

Ethnic troubles aside, Malaysia has also been gripped recently by the Asian economic crisis of 1997. This crash was the first significant glitch in the otherwise bullish Malaysian economy since WWII. The staging of the Common-wealth Games in 1998 was seen as a feather in Malaysia's cap, and helped restore some national confidence. This revival was somewhat overshadowed by political and social turmoil sparked by the sacking and arrest of Deputy Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim.

Orientation

Malaysia is divided into two regions - Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia - with Kuala Lumpur in Selangor province near the west coast of the Peninsular. The traditional heart of the city is Merdeka Square, easily spotted because of the 95m (312ft) flag pole - reputedly the world's tallest. KL is a relatively easy city to navigate, with major north-south thoroughfares assisting in the speedy movement of people. At peak hour(s) however the city resembles most other industrialised cities in the world, and the air - already dripping with humidity - gets thick with smog. Travelling around the city on foot can be a frustrating experience. New six-lane roads and overhead fly-overs divide the city with no thought to pedestrian traffic.

South-east of Merdeka Square, the banking district merges into the bustling, old China Town, where travellers can find a wealth of accommodation and restaurant options. Due south of the square, past the main post office is the historic KL train station, while further west is the 'green belt', housing the Lake Gardens, National Museum and Monument and the Malaysian Parliament.

Along with the station, the major transport hub in KL is Puduraya bus station, on the eastern edge of the central district. South-east of the station is the site of KL Sentral (Central Station) which - when completed - will be the main public transport hub. The international airport, KLIA, is located some 43 km (27 mi) south of the city. The trip to town takes about 90 minutes.

[Image] Attractions

Merdeka Square

Site of the proclamation of independence in 1957, the square - formerly known as Padang - is the centre of National Day celebrations. Surrounding the square are many buildings of historical interest, including the Royal Selangor Club where KL's elite meet, the Sultan Abdul Samad building, which is a great example of the Victorian-Moorish architecture common to Malaysian cities, the National History Museum and and the impressive, modern Dayabumi Complex. The square is in the heart of downtown KL, near the convergence of the Kelang and Gombak rivers.

Chinatown

KL's Chinatown is a crowded colourful melange of signs, shops, activity and noise. The central section, Jalan Petaling, is a frantically busy market that is closed to traffic. It is most spectacular at night, when the combination of street stalls, food, haggling and bright lights make impressions on all five senses. The old buildings - undergoing constant restoration by conservation groups - are interesting in themselves, while bargain-hunters and collectors of kitsch might be in luck as well. Chinatown is about 300m (330 yards) south-east of Merdeka Square.

Lake Gardens

When the bustle gets too much, head to the 'green belt' - 92 hectares (227 acres) of planned parkland less than 1 km (0.6 mi) west of the central city. The main focus of the park is Tasik Perdana - the Premier Lake - where locals and visitors cavort on the banks or in little paddle boats. Attractions in the park can be reached either on-foot, or by regular shuttle buses. If you're into the birds, Bird Park is an enormous walk-in aviary boasting about 160 species from throughout South-East Asia. If the bees are more your thing, you might get lucky at the nearby Orchid Garden, where 800 species of flower vie for your attention. There are also sections of the gardens dedicated to tame deer and butterflies. From the gardens, you can also see the massive bronze National Monument, Parliament House and the Planetarium.

Golden Triangle

If all of KL's peace, quiet and culture is getting to you, head to the high-rise-heavy Golden Triangle: a small city in itself, dominated by the tallest building in the world, the Petronas Towers. Surrounded on all sides by shopping, commerce and entertainment outlets, you'll feel like you're in another country altogether. This area contains all the expensive hotels and restaurants, with nightlife not for the budget-conscious. Visitors will enjoy the Kuala Lumpur Tower - the fourth-highest telecommunications tower in the world - with superb panoramic views on offer from the observation deck.

Batu Caves

Just 13km (8mi) north of the city, the huge Batu Caves are among KL's best known tourist attractions. Now used for Hindu festivals and pilgrimages, the caves also form an intense backdrop to the spectacularly masochistic feats performed annually by Thaipusam devotees. The main cave, a vast open space known as the Temple Cave - is reached by a 272-step climb. Beyond the stairs is the main temple. There are several other smaller caves in the same formation, including one with elaborately painted Hindu figures. The caves can be reached by either the 11D bus (from the Central Market) or bus 69 from Jalan Pudu. The trip takes about half an hour.

Petaling Jaya

Originally developed as a dormitory town to Kuala Lumpur, Petaling Jaya - or PJ as it's inevitably called - has quickly established itself as a major industrial centre in its own right. Many engineering industries have their base in PJ, and it is also home to Malaysia's emerging high-tech industries. On the way from KL, the University of Malaya is worth a look. Once in PJ, there is a wealth of shopping and dining options. The biggest attraction for lovers of good times is the Sunway Lagoon, a huge theme park with large waterslides and the world's biggest surf-wave pool. Petaling Jaya is 11km (7mi) south-west of KL and easily accessed by bus from Kelang bus station.

Templer Park

North of the city, Templer Park was established during the colonial period. The 500 hectare (1235 acre) park is a tract of primary jungle featuring marked jungle paths, swimming lagoons and several waterfalls. Just north of the park is a 350m (1150ft) limestone formation known as Bukit Takun. The park is one hour by bus 66 from the Puduraya Bus Station near the centre of Kuala Lumpur.

[Image]Activities

Many of Malaysia's most exciting activities take place outside of the capital, but there is still plenty to do in KL. The large parks and gardens make bird watching a rewarding experience. Malaysia boasts a tremendous number of species. The city and surrounds also have facilities for bushwalking and swimming. At night you can shake your bootie at a disco - until 1am, anyway.

[Image]Events

With so many cultures and religions in Malaysia, there is almost always something going on. Visitors from Western countries will need to check the local lunar calendar for the exact dates of most events. New Year's Day, Chinese New Year, Worker's Day (May Day) and National Day (31 August) are just a few of Malaysia's mind-boggling 44 public holidays. The festival of Ramadan is the major Islamic event of the year.

The Hindu festival Thaipusam - now banned in India - is celebrated in the most dramatic way in Kuala Lumpur with devotees attaching heavy metal frames to their bodies using skewers and hooks. The celebrations centre on the Bata Caves.

[Image]Getting There & Away

KL is extremely well-serviced by air, bus and train routes. The main bus station - Puduraya - is just east of Chinatown, and services all of Peninsular Malaysia as well as Singapore and Thailand. Long-distance train journeys depart from the historic old train station, located 1km (0.6mi) from the new KL Sentral.

The colossal new international airport (KLIA) was opened in 1998 and boasts state-of-the-art facilities. Two terminals are linked by a shuttle service, and host all international arrivals and departures. Public Transport is not an easy way to travel to the airport. Bus 19 from downtown will get you as far as Hendian Duta on the city's outskirts. From here, it's a 75 minute trip by coach. You can also take a train (Nilai Station) followed by a bus. The trip takes about 90 minutes. Taxis from the airport operate on a fixed-price coupon system, available in the arrival hall. The old airport at Subang still handles most domestic routes.

[Image]Getting Around

The public transport system within KL is speedy, comfortable and uncomplicated. New expressways, a remodelled rail network and the new train station have all contributed to a reduction in traffic congestion. While buses and city trains move huge numbers of people, travellers will probably find most joy with the fast and frequent Light Rail (LRT) and - when it's completed in late 1999 - the Monorail (PRT). There is little point hiring a car for a stay in KL unless you plan on many trips to obscure destinations out of the city.

Taxis are a cheap alternative to the mass transport options. Drivers are sometimes unwilling to use the meters - check with locals about going rates or simply get out and hail another cab. Once on your way, you may feel like you're going in circles and will wonder whether the driver is ripping you off. Hold your tongue; the shortest distance between two points in KL is rarely a straight line.

--------------------------------------------------------- KUL Kuala Lumpur is situated midway along the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, at the confluence of the Klang and Gombek rivers. It is approximately 35 km from the coast and sits at the centre of the Peninsula's extensive and modern transportation network. Kuala Lumpur is easily the largest city in the nation, possessing a population of over one and a half million people drawn from all of Malaysia's many ethnic group

More than any other spot in the country, Kuala Lumpur, or "KL" as it is commonly known, is the focal point of new Malaysia. While the city's past is still present in the evocative British colonial buildings of the Dataran Merdeka and the midnight lamps of the Petaling Street nightmarket, that past is everywhere met with insistent reminders of KL's present and future.

The city's bustling streets, its shining, modern office towers, and its cosmopolitan air project an unbounded spirit of progress and symbolize Malaysia's unhesitating leap into the future. To some, this spirit seems to have been gained at the loss of ancient cultural traditions, but in many ways KL marks the continuation rather than the loss of Malaysia's rich past. Like Malacca five hundred years before, KL's commercial centre is a grand meeting place for merchants and travelers from all over the world.

With a height of 1,453 feet, the world's tallest buildings now rise above the skyline of Kuala Lumpur. They are called the Petronas Towers, and, inevitably, they have become the symbols for the astounding growth that has taken place in Malaysia over the last two decades. As fate would have it, however, their supreme status will probably be shortlived: by the year 2001, Shanghai's World Financial Center is expected to top off at record-breaking 1,508 feet.

Central Market Fifty years ago this site was occupied by a wet market. Today, the art-deco structure of the Central Market is a centre for the display and development of Malaysian culture, arts and crafts. There are many performances, demonstrations, and activities offered here, including batik painting, fortune telling, shadow puppet plays, glass blowing, dance classes, art classes, and many others. The building won the Coronation Architecture Design Award in 1953.

Petaling Street The center of Kuala Lumpur's original Chinatown. Petaling Street maintains much of its traditional atmosphere, particularly at night when vendors spread their wares out on the street. While it is possible to purchase anything from gems and incense to toys and t-shirts here, enjoying the night market is really a matter of just wandering about and enjoying its sights, sounds, and energy.

Railway Station Located at Jalan Hishamuddin, this Moorish-style terminal was designed by architect A.B. Hubbock, who also designed the Masjid Jam. Built in 1910, it underwent extensive renovations in 1986. It is equipped with air-conditioned waiting halls, snack kiosks, money changing booths, souvenir shops, restaurants and a tourist information counter. Across the street is the Malayan Railway Administration Building, another fine example of the British colonial adaptation of Moorish architecture. It is linked to the station by an underground thoroughfare.

In the same way, the city brings together Malaysia's past and present, its many constituent cultures, and even its remarkable natural treasures, allowing first-time visitors an invaluable opportunity to see Malaysia as a whole before setting off to explore its parts. In the botanical and bird parks of the Lake Gardens one is treated to a first glimpse of the unsurpassed beauty and variety of Malaysia's plants and animals. In the vibrant Central Market, music, crafts, and cultural practices from Kelantan to Sarawak can be explored and experienced. And in the National Museum, the dizzying multiplicity of Malaysia's cultural history comes into focus. As the entry point for most visitors and the meeting point of the country's many attractions, Kuala Lumpur is a grand gateway to a fascinating destination.

From KUL NE are two rtes: the jungle RR (slow) and Rte 8 which interwine each other to Kota Bharu. Rte 8 begins at Bentong as an extension of Rte 2 NE out of KUL

Frazer's Hill is 100 km NE. Luala Lapis is 170 km NE.


\14 KUL Batu Caves

Thereare 272 steps up to the main cave. Very crowded in Jan/Feb during Hindu Thaipusan Festival. Bring fruit/Longnans for apes.

#11 Intrakota bus from BKK Bank or Central Mkt. 45 min. Other buses to Batu Caves can be had at the Pudu Raya Bus Terminal in Kuala Lumpur.

Stomach turning festival takes place in the tenth month of the hindu calender (Jan/Feb) when there is a full moon in the month of Thai. The festival is banned in India for its portential for violence in a violent country. It is only practiced in Singapore, Sri Lanka, and Malaysia.

Batu caves are just outside Kuala Lumpur. Once you climb the rock stairs the view from the entrance to the biggest or Cathedral Cave is an impressive sight. Beware of mischievous monkeys on the way, however!

First discovered over 100 years ago, the Batu Caves have never ceased to attract visitors. Only 13 km north of Kuala Lumpur, they consist of three main caves and a number of smaller ones.

The best known of these caves is the Temple Cave, a large cavern with a vaulted ceiling about 100 metres above the floor. To reach it one has to climb 272 steps, a feat performed by many Hindus on the way to the caves to offer prayers to their revered deities. Every year, on Thaipusam, as many as 800,000 devotees and other visitors may throng the caves. As a form of penance or sacrifice, many of them carry kavadis. These are large, brightly decorated frameworks, usually combined with various metal hooks and skewers which are used to pierce the skin, cheeks and tongue.

A little below the Temple Cave is the Dark Cave, a two-kilometre long network of relatively untouched caverns containing a large number of cave animals, including several found nowhere else in the world! Access to this cave is restricted and permission and guidelines must be obtained from the Malaysian Nature Society.

At the foot of the steps is the art Gallery Cave, in which are displayed statues and wall paintings depicting Hindu mythology. Access is via a concrete walkway spanning a small lake and nominal entrance fee is charged.

Tourists baffled by lack of info on Thaipusam By ANGELA RAO AND GOH EE KOON Jan 22, 2000 -

Tourists who flocked to see one of Selangor's most popular cultural and religious events, Thaipusam at the Batu Caves yesterday claimed there were not enough write-ups or information.

They said they could not appreciate the event as it was too bizzare for some of them to comprehend the significance of some of the devotee's actions.

Tom Reddy, 22 and Emily Walker, 21, students from Exeter University, England said while they were excited about being able to participate in such an 'exotic' affair, they would have been happier to know what they were experiencing.

"We saw some brief articles on the event so we came here, but, I think the Government should give out more information on its significance and the meaning of each action, to people like us," said Walker.

"I don't understand much of what's going on but it's amazing though, I wish we had more information to fully understand and appreciate all this," he said.

The couple who are on a one- month holiday in Malaysia, said they would come back to Batu Caves again.

David Taylor and Tania Malkovic-Taylor from Toronto, Canada said they were baffled by the lack of information materials in hotels and tourist spots, on Thaipusam.

"The staff at the hotel we're staying in advised us to take the train or the LRT but apart from that they did not have any other information.

"Tourists generally want to know the time, date and how to get there, but, we also want to know more about the religious significance of the event itself," Taylor said.

The couple along with their three-year-old son, Alexander were amazed by the colour and festive atmosphere prevailing at the temple.

Thaipusam this year also attracted a group of tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun.

For Akiko Takahashi, the festival was the first she had ever attended and certainly the first of its kind she witnessed.

She said that she spent the morning taking photographs as a souvenir of her trip to Malaysia. Takahashi was in a group of eight Japanese tourists.

"I have read about Thaipusam in some tourism books about Malaysia and thought that it was very interesting," she said, before adding, "I contacted a friend living here to find out the date of the festival and made plans with friends to catch it."

Takahashi also said that the kavadis were her favourite part of the festival and hoped to return in a few years to attend her second Thaipusam.

"But I think a tourist information centre would have helped," she quipped.

New Zelanders, Lt-Cdr Nick Quinn, 35, his wife Paddy,33, and children, Sam,6, and Elizabeth,9, arrived as early as noon to catch the elaborate kavadis and to check out the stalls selling everything from Indian sweets to toy telephones.

"It's just amazing to see all these people so devoted and dedicated to their religion that they can go through all this sacrifice and hardship.

"This has certainly been a very interesting time for us," said Quinn, who is on attachement with the Royal Malaysian Navy, based in Lumut.

The most dramatic Indian festival is Thaipusam. Devotees go through a strict and careful spirittual preparation before embarking on a ritual journey of penitential selfmutilation. They pierce their bodies with metal hooks supporting heavy structures called kavadis decorated with peacock feathers and offerings. In their tranced state, not a drop of blood is shed as they process from the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Serangoon Road to the Sri Thandayuthapani Temple in Tank Road.

Thaipusam (late January or early February) Thaipusam, a day of consecration to the Hindu deity, Lord Murugan, sometimes also called Lord Subramaniam. A feature of the festival is the carrying of a kavadi, a frame decorated with colored papers, tinsels, fresh flowers, and fruits as a form of penance. In Kuala Lumpur, Hindus carrying the kavadi make the annual pilgrimage to the Batu Caves in Selangor, where the kavadi is carried up the 272 steps to the entrance of the great cave and deposited at the feet of the deity.

On the eve of Thaipusam, the grounds of Batu Caves are transformed into a fairyland of lights. Kavadi-carrying begins after sunset. Devotees and penitents carry Kavadis, which are gaily decorated wooden or steel paraphernalia. Some have entered a trance, and pierced their cheeks, tongues, or foreheads. The next day they will return to their ordinary lives, cleansed. Open-door observers of the kavadi do not have to participate in this ritual unless they really, really want to. Apart from the mortification of flesh, other forms of devotion are practiced, such as honey or milk offerings.

Thaipusam, a Hindu festival in honour of Siva and his second son, Subramaniam. It is a festival celebrated towards the end of January or early in February.

During Thaipusam, the idol of Subramanial is taken out of the temple and put in a shrine in silver chariot which is drawn by ritual bullocks. The chariot will meander its way through many main streets. At the same time, the devotees who decide to offer thanks or have fulfilled vows will have to carry kavadis and walk behind this chariot. Kavadi means sacrifice at every step

Devotees must fast and mediate 40 days before this festival and break the fast only 3 days after Thaipusam. The kavadis also have sharp skewers with which the devotees must pierce themselves with just before the procession. Astonishingly, no pain or blood is said to be felt or seen.

Thaipusam is the most important religious festival celebrated by Hindus. It is observed in the month of Thai, the tenth month which is a very important month in the Tamil calendar. On Thaipusam, the full moon is in transit through the brightest star, Pusam in the zodiacal sign of Cancer.

For Hindus, Thaipusam is a day of atonement for sins. On this auspicious day, the image of Lord Subramaniam, youngest son of the mighty Shiva - the most awesome God of the Hindu pantheon, is placed on a silver chariot and taken around in a grand procession to the accompaniment of instrumental music.

Devotees who observe this great day of penance, spiritually cleanse themselves by undergoing a month long fast. They observe frequent prayers, consume a single vegetarian meal daily and abstain from sex. Twenty-four hours before the carrying of kavadis, a complete fast is observed by devotees.

Kavadis are carried in fulfilment of vows and pledges taken in devotion to Lord Subramaniam. Kavadis are semicircular steel frames with bars for support on the shoulders, decorated with flowers and peacock feathers. Other devotees walk in sandals embedded with iron nails or stick small spears made of silver through their cheeks, tongues and bodies. However, there appears to be no physical pain encountered through these processes!


\15 KUL Petronas Towers

When KL does something, it likes to do it big. The twin Petronas Towers skyscrapers - the tallest building in the world - dominate the skyline, while in Merdeka Square stands a 95m (312ft) flagpole. Despite the economic crisis, Kuala Lumpur is currently the site of large-scale development, with work underway on a new US$8 billion city on the southern fringe of the capital as well as an adjoining `ultra-high-tech multimedia supercorridor'. Before the Asian economic crisis hit in 1997 there were also plans to build the world's longest building, too.

88 storey twin towers. 53 floor bridge link. Built 96-98. Still no entry, spring 99.

A world landmark in Malaysia PETRONAS Twin Towers At A Glance Number of storeys 88 Height 452 meters above street level Total built-up area 3.7 million sq ft Design/Architecture Cesar Pelli & Assoc [U.S.] in association with KLCC architects. Location of skybridge Levels 41 and 42 Length of skybridge58.4 meters Height of skybridge170 metres above street level Vertical transportation 29 double-deck high speed passenger lifts in each tower Number of escalators10 in each tower Stainless steel cladding 65,000 sq. metres Vision glass 77,000 sq. metres

Concrete [various strengths up to grade 80]160,000 cubic metres in the superstructures [see also foundation description below] Steel 36,910 tonnes of beams, trusses and reinforcement Foundation4.5 metre [15 feet] thick raft containing 13,200 cubic meters of grade 60 rein-forced concrete, weighing approx 32,550 tonnes under each Tower, supproted by 104 barette piles varying from 60 to 115 metres in length.

Prominent Features Double-Deck Skybridge at Levels 41 and 42 High Speed Double-Deck Lifts Building Control System Building Security System Communication System

The floor-plate of the Tower is designed based on geo-metric patterns common in architecture of Islamic heri-tage. It is composed of two rotated and superimposed squares with small circular infills. These geometric figures have been described by architects as symbolising unity, harmony, stability and rationality - all important principles of Islam.

Like the exterior design, the Towers' entrance design was also inspired by the country's cultural heritage, incor-porating contemporary Malaysian motifs adapted from traditional handicrafts such as songket and timber car-vings. The overall character of the building is high-tech and intl but distinctively Malaysian.

At the podium level, the PETRONAS Twin Towers feature the following: The 864-seat Dewan Filharmonik PETRONAS, a venue of architectural and acoustic distinction. It is also home to the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra. A reference library on energy, petroleum, petrochemical and related industries.

The Towers were topped-out in March 1996 and occupation began in early 1997. Tower One is currently being occu-pied by PETRONAS, the state-owned petroleum corp. Tower Two is being occupied by PETRONAS' assoc co while the remaining space is being leased out to multinationals.

The PETRONAS Twin Towers are located on the northern boundry of the Multimedia Super Corridor (MSC) and has state-of-the-art communication facilities. MSC is the launching pad to propel Malaysia into the frontline of the info age.

Acknowledged by the Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat as the tallest buildings in the world.

--------------------------------------------------------- Petronas Twrs Sky Bridge Touch the sky at Twin Towers MAGDALENE LUM reveals the best spots to visit up north in Take It Easy, a weekly column on Malaysian holidays. WHICH spot in KL gives you a bird's-eye view of the city? Most people will tell you that it is the skybridge at the 88-storey Petronas Twin Towers -- the world's tallest building at 452 m.

It was featured in the movie, Entrapment, starring Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones.

The skybridge linking the two towers is now open to the public. In the past, only the staff of offices at the towers were allowed to walk on this bridge, which is on the 41st storey, 170 m above street level.

It was opened to the public last May, due to requests from members of the public, as well as foreigners, says a spokesman from the Petronas Corporate Affairs Dep. Entry is free but you have to get a ticket and queue up. Visiting hours are fixed though. You can go there from Tu-Su from 10am to 12.45pm and from 3pm to 4.45pm. You have to take the lift up in groups of 20 and you can stay on the skybridge for only 15min. Daily visits are limited to 800 people a day.

If you are keen to go on the bridge, you can get free tickets at the concourse of Twr 2 from 9.15am for the morning session and from 2.30pm for the afternoon session. The twin towers are home to multinational companies; Malaysia's first philharmonic hall, which has 864 seats; the Petronas Art Gallery and the Suria KLCC Shopping Centre.

For more info, call the Petronas Corp Affairs Dept at 02-03-581-4751 or 581-4757.

--------------------------------------------------------- On Muslim Soil, a Lesser Fear of Great Heights By MARK LANDLER NYT KUA, Oct 21 01 Jan Schouten peered down from the sky-bridge at the Petronas Towers, 557 feet above the street. The view from part-way up the world's tallest buildings was dazzling  a magic-carpet ride over the Moorish domes and minarets of this Southeast Asian city.

But Mr. Schouten's thoughts were on the other twin towers. "I was going to take my wife to New York next year to see the World Trade Center," he said, riding an elevator back down. "I was booking the tickets a week before it happened. I still can't believe they're gone."

Mr. Schouten, a forklift operator from Delft, in the Netherlands, adores tall buildings. He seeks them out in every city he visits, recites obscure facts about their design and holds forth on their engineering marvels. On this morning, Mr Schouten mused about the fragility of these late-20th-cen monuments. Surely, he said, the Petronas Towers, built 24 yrs after the WTC with the latest in high-performance steel and concrete, could withstand the impact of a commercial airplane.

A knot of tourists stood awkwardly in the elevator, waiting to reach the ground floor. Nobody answered. At 1,483 feet, the Petronas Towers have been recognized as the world's tallest since 1998, when they squeaked past the Sears Tower by 33 feet. Their completion represented a coming of age for Malaysia, a little country that loves superlatives (Kuala Lumpur also has the world's tallest flagpole).

These days, though, tallest is not a superlative to be coveted. "We're not giving any interviews because we don't want to turn the towers into a target," said Yasmin Abdullah, a spokeswoman for Kuala Lumpur City Center Holdings, which owns the $1.6 billion complex.

Twelve hours after the World Trade Center attack, the Petronas Towers were evacuated for the first time, because of a bomb threat. While it turned out to be a hoax, the buildings' owners have not taken any chances, installing X-ray machines and metal detectors at every entrance. The fact that a Muslim country is home to the world's tallest buildings is not lost on the people who work here. Many believe religion will prevent the towers from becoming a target.

"We have to be ready for anything, of course," said Abdullah Ali, 46, who works on the 25th floor for Petronas, the state oil company and the building's namesake tenant. "But our relationship with other countries is pretty good. We don't have much of a problem with terrorism in Malaysia."

Michael Teague, a British consultant who advises a subsidiary of Petronas, said: "I thought about this a lot after Sept. 11. This is an Islamic country; the people who are doing these acts are Islamic. I think there's absolutely no chance of anything like that happening here."

Still, Mr. Teague said several of his American colleagues had qualms about coming to work the week after the attacks. "I kept telling them I feel more safe here than I would in London," he said. Among the handful of American tourists who visited the sky-bridge, there was a quiet defiance. "You can't allow your life to be dictated by fanatics," said Len Salamon, 59, a civil engineer from Los Angeles.

While skyscrapers were pioneered in the United States, Malaysia was determined to put an Islamic imprint on the form. Cesar Pelli, the American architect chosen by the government to design the towers, said he based them on an eight-point star, a basic motif in Islamic art.

It did not hurt that the prime minister, Mahathir Mohamad, sent him a sketch of an eight-point star as a suggestion. Mr. Pelli softened the design by adding scalloped facades between the points. The slender shape and arabesque style of the towers is meant to echo Kuala Lumpur's mosques.

Critics say the project has not conveyed the message its creators intended. It opened just as the Asian financial crisis devastated Malaysia's economy, making the country's high ambitions look a bit like hubris.

Yet the fetish for tall buildings persists in Asia. Half a dozen projects on the scale of the Petronas Towers are under construction or in blueprints here. Shanghai is building a 94-story tower in its Pudong financial district, while Taiwan plans two towers of more than 100 floors.

In Hong Kong, an 88-floor monolith is rising on one side of Victoria Harbor, while a 102-story counterpart is planned for the other side. The project's champions say the towers will form a gateway to Asia's most famous harbor; critics envision Scylla and Charybdis in steel and concrete.

"Building a tall skyscraper is one of the best ways for an emerging society to prove it has arrived, because not everybody can do it," Mr. Pelli said from his office in New Haven, Conn. "It takes money, political stability, and an economy big enough to fill the building when it's finished. "Bangladesh could not build a Petronas Towers. They may someday if they get their act together. But not today," he said.

Malaysia has its act together. But it has been unsettled lately by a debate over how to respond to the American-led military strikes on Afghanistan. Islamic militant groups have called for a holy war against the United States, while the secular government contends that Muslim militants are a threat here.

Prime Minister Mahathir, a moderate, has endorsed the campaign against terrorism. In a gesture to his Muslim majority, however, he has condemned the war as a futile exercise that is killing innocent civilians. The tug of war between moderation and extremism is evident in the Petronas Towers themselves. Someone has scribbled "long live Osama bin Laden" on the wall of the one of its gleaming elevators.

they were merely the tallest buildings in the world, Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, designed by Cesar Pelli & Associates, would be little more than real-estate curiosities, worthy of our brief attention. After all, their tenuous hold on the height record-challenged by Chicago's Sears Tower, which still has the highest observation deck and habitable floor-will be lost completely in 2002 or 2003 when Kohn Pedersen Fox's World Financial Center is completed in Shanghai.

The Petronas Towers Height: 1,483 ft (452 meters) Owners: Kuala Lumpur City Centre Holdings Sendirian Berhad Architects: Cesar Pelli & Associates Engineers: Thornton-Tomasetti Engineers Contractors: Mayjus and SKJ Joint Ventures Topping Out: 1998 Official Opening: August 28, 1999 On April 15, 1996, the Council on Tall Buildings named the Petronas Towers the tallest in the world, passing the torch to a new continent. Although the project's developers, a consortium of private investors in association with the Malaysian government and Petronas, the national oil company, had not originally set out to surpass Chicago's Sears Tower, they did aspire to construct a monument announcing Kuala Lumpur's prominence as a commercial and cultural capital. In the design of American architect Cesar Pelli they found a winning scheme--twin towers of elegant proportions with a slenderness ratio (height to width) of 9.4--that would capture not only the title but the public imagination.

Pelli's design answered the developer's call to express the culture and heritage of Malaysia by evoking Islamic arabesques and employing repetitive geometries characteristic of Muslim architecture. In plan, an 8-point star formed by intersecting squares is an obvious reference to Islamic design; curved and pointed bays create a scalloped facade that suggests temple towers. The identical towers are linked by a bridge at the 41st floor, creating a dramatic gateway to the city.

The structure is high-strength concrete, a material familiar to Asian contractors and twice as effective as steel in sway reduction. Supported by 75-by-75-foot concrete cores and an outer ring of widely-spaced super columns, the towers showcase a sophisticated structural system that accommodates its slender profile and provides from 14,000 to 22,000 square feet of column-free office space per floo

Other features include a curtain wall of glass and stainless steel sun shades to diffuse the intense equatorial light; a double-decker elevator system with a sky lobby transfer point on the 41st floor to accommodate the thousands of people who use the complex daily; and a mixed-use base featuring a concert hall and shopping center enveloped by nearly seventy acres of public parks and plazas.

In both engineering and design, the Petronas Towers succeed at acknowledging Malaysia's past and future, embracing the country's heritage while proclaiming its modernization. The end result, says Pelli, is a monument that is not specifically Malaysian, but will forever be identified with Kuala Lumpur.


\16 PUTRA train history

KUL has a light rail system from Main RR stn to the A/P. The Malaysian capital of Kuala Lumpur, one of the fastest-growing cities in the world, is in the process of being provided with a state-of-the-art metro system. The system is urgently needed, as the city's roads are hopelessly gridlocked and, with developments like the Petronas Tower, the world's highest building on its completion in 1997, still continuing apace, pressure on the transport infrastructure shows little sign of easing.

The system will provide commuters between the city's People's Park and Gombak with a fast, efficient east-west route bypassing some of the most congested roads in the world. Completed during 1999, the system, at 29 kilometres long, is the longest fully-automated driverless metro system in the world.

THE PROJECT The system is being developed by Projek Usahasama Transit Ringan Automatik (PUTRA), which is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Renong, a 100% Malaysian-owned company with a track record in engineering, project management and construction of highways, power facilities and infrastructure works. PUTRA's aim is to provide Kuala Lumpur and its surrounding areas with a state-of-the-art transport system, which it hopes will both promote urban growth, and enhance the quality of life of the city's residents. Line 1 runs 12 kilometres from Sultan Ismail, on the northern edge of the old city, to the eastern suburb of Ampang, and has 13 stations.

ROLLING STOCK Each of the vehicles used will be powered by two linear induction electric motors, which are claimed to keep noise levels to a minimum. A contract for the design and construction of 70 Advanced Rapid Transit vehicles has been let to Bombardier of North America. These will operate in 35 two-car sets initially, but if demand warrants, will be capable of being expanded to three- or four-vehicle formations. Each two-car unit will seat 64 passengers, which can be reduced by two in each vehicle to accommodate a wheelchair where necessary.

There is also substantial space for standing passengers, with each unit expected to accommodate up to another 400 passengers at heaviest loading times. Air conditioning will be fitted to all vehicles. Under the supply contract, Bombardier will also give operations and maintenance training to PUTRA staff, and offer advisory support when the vehicles are in service. Bombardier is working in conjunction with Vancouver SkyTrain transit system operator BC Transit to supply the electrical and mechanical equipment.

Power will be provided through 14 substations to convert electricity to the 750V dc system on which the trains will operate. In addition to their driverless automatic train control, each train is also equipped with a steerable suspension for improved ride quality.

Once complete, the first six vehicles were shipped to Bombardier's sister plant at Kingston, Ontario, Canada, where they underwent dynamic testing on the company's fully automated test track. Delivery of the first of the new trains to Port Klang, Malaysia, took place in Jan 97, with the production schedule geared towards completion by the time the country hosted the Commonwealth Games the following year.

INFRASTRUCTURE The PUTRA-LRT network has 24 stations along its 20-mile length, and has been constructed in two sections: Lembah Subang to Pasar Seni, and Pasar Seni to Ampang Park and Gombak. All of the first phase is on elevated single-track bridge sections, which are also used for 8 km of the 14.9 km of the second phase, in order to avoid conflict with existing roads as far as possible. The focal point of the system is People's Park, in the west of Kuala Lumpur and journey times to each end of the route will be 45 minutes to Gombak and 21 minutes to Pasar Seni.

The vast majority of the system will be above ground, but 4.4km will be in tunnel, and this has been constructed with the help of tunnel boring equipment manufactured by Hyundai of Korea. Tunnelling is being carried out at depths of between 12 and 20 metres, with five stations also being constructed underground. The average speed of the trains is anticipated at 40 km/h (25 mph), with the initial service planned to carry between 10,000 and 16,000 passengers per hour in each direction, but with an ultimate capacity of 30,000 per hour each way.

The system will operate for 18 hours a day, between 0600 and 2400. Service frequencies will vary between five and ten minutes off-peak, but much tighter headways in peak periods will permit frequencies of as great as one minute. The system's architects have been keen to combine both traditional Malaysian and modern designs and features into the stations.

Selected stations will have public toilets and telephones, covered walkways and bus stops, sheltered taxi ranks, passenger pick-up points and overbridges, while four strategically located sites have been chosen for the development of park and ride facilities. Safety is also stressed in the design of the stations, with all platform edges being protected by a barrier, with an intrusion detection system incorporated to prevent passengers getting too close to the moving trains or tracks.

Every platform will have emergency buttons and two-way passenger assistance telephones linked to the central control room, which will also monitor fixed closed circuit television cameras located throughout the system. Emergency lighting and smoke and fire detection systems will also be incorporated into each platform. To ease monitoring of the system, stations are constructed to a standard design, each having the same 68-metre platform length. Gradients along the network will also be generally slight, with a maximum of 5% (1-in-20).

This will enable an initial average speed of 38 km/h (23.6 mph). Links with other transport systems will be an important part of the network, with each station incorporating bus stops, and interchanges with existing rail lines at Brickfields (KTM line), Jalan Tun Perak (STAR line), and to the route from the city centre to Kuala Lumpur Airport.

SIGNALLING/COMMUNICATIONS The network will boast a fully automated signalling system, with the possibility of manual override in the event of an emergency. Two-way communications on board the trains will allow passengers to speak to staff in the central control room at any time.

Fare-collection is another aspect of the project which will be fully automatic, while the busiest stations have been designed to a standard formula to include ramps and elevators, specially textured floor surfaces, toilets for the disabled, pre-recorded station announcements, and reserved seats for the elderly and wheelchair-bound passengers. Information systems on board each vehicle will allow each station on the system to be illuminated on a map display as the train approaches it.

Despite the high degree of automation built into the metro system, it will still offer substantial employment opportunities in Kuala Lumpur and its environs, with up to 160 operations and 220 maintenance staff expected to be needed by the year 2000.

ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY STRADDLE MONORAIL Piling work has started for the RM 1.9 million Kuala Lumpur Monorail (also know as the People mover Rapid Transit or PRT system) which runs through the citys central business, hotel and shopping district and the Old Klang Road corridor. It involves the construction of a total track length of 16 km, 20 fully elevated stations, three power sub-stations and two maintenance depots. This third light rail transit system (after the Star LRT and Putra LRT) also integrates with other rail transportation systems.

The KUL Monorail system, designed and manufactured by Hitachi Company of Japan, employs third generation tech in the straddle monorail system. Earlier systems have been used in Japan for the past 30 yrs. The up-coming system in KUL is the first outside Japan. KL PRT Sdn Bhd. will be constructing, operating and maintaining the KUL Monorail under a concession agreement with the Govt for a period of 30 years. According to the company, the monorail is environment friendly and aesthetically pleasing with narrow track gauge, quiet trains, few power sub-stations and elegant commuter stations.

KL Monorail Route and Integration Network Section 1 (8km) Pekeliling Bus Terminal at Jalan Tun Razak - Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman - Jalan Sultan Ismail - Jalan Imbi- Jalan Hang Tuah - Jalan Maharajalela - Brickfeilds Section 2 (8km) Brickfields - Kg, abdullah Hukum - Pantai Dalam - Taman Desa - OUG - Kg Pasir Network Integration With LRT 1 - at the Tun Razak Stn and Hang Tuah Stn With LRT 2 - at the Wawasan Station and KL Sentra Station With the KTM Komuter and the ERL (Rail system serving the KUL Intl A/P ) - at the KL Sentral Station.

The KUL Monorail, which runs on twin track pre-cast concrete haunched beam guideway, is said to have the smallest footprint of any elevated guideway transit tech because of small columns. Typical columns measuring 1.4m x 1.2m will be constructed about 30m part. The track gauge is narrow, at only 0.8 meter wide.

A combination of concrete guideway and nitrogen-filled rubber tyres will enable the monorail train to run quietly, compared with steel wheels and steel rails used in the LRT systems. Noise will be limited to be within 70 - 75 dB(A) dependent on the operating mode of the trains.

The monorail train moves with three types of wheels, i.e., running wheels, guide wheels and stabilising wheels (see diagram of bogie). Each main wheel is also provided with an emergency supporting solid tyre wheel that enables the car to be driven back to the maintenance facility if there is puncture of the main type. The tyre pressure for the main wheels is monitored on-board to reduce the likelihood of flat tyres.

Main Features of Traction Inverter Control system Remote control, automatic acceleration and deceleration Rated Output 244 kVA Maximum Output 540 kVA Rated Output Voltage AC I, 100V, 3 - phase Output Frequency 0~100Hz Power Device IGBT 600 A, 2000V

Each monorail train will consist of four cars, permanently coupled totalling 63 meters in length and three meters in width. The car body is made of light weight, high corrosion and fire resistant aluminium alloy. Structural members, sheathing and underframe including the floor framing are also constructed of aluminium alloy.

The cars are driven by electric motors with power pick-up via traction power rails mounted on the sides of the guideway. There will be six motor bogies per train and two trailer bogies per train. The 3 - phase AC induction traction motors are powered by Variable Voltage Variable Frequency (VVVF) inverters.

The monorail trains will be able to operate at speeds up to 80kph, using 1,5000V DC traction supply. This high traction power voltage allows for fewer power sub-stations, thereby minimising land use and intrusions into the inner city landscape. As such, Tenaga National city landscape. As such, Tenaga National Berhads 33KV distribution network will supply power at only three locations, namely the Tun Razak Station, Sultan Sulaiman Station, Sultan Sulaiman Station and Taman Desa Station. Power will be transformer/Rectifier capacity is 2X 4,000 kW (Tun Razak Station), 2X 6,000 kW (Sultan Sulaiman station) and 2 X 4,000 kW (Taman Desa).

Power generated during braking (regenerative, electrical brake combined with a supplemental pneumatic friction system) will be absorbed by 280kW resistor load bank at each traction substation.

At other passenger stations, power will be provided at 415V AC directly from TNB. Uninterruptable power supplies will be provided at Control Centre, depots and each station for continuous power to vital equipment in case of loss of primary power. Emergency back-up power will be provided to ensure that essential equipment can operate for a minimum period of 30 to 60 minutes.

The Kuala Lumpur Monorail will be semi-automatic, that is, with a driver at them helm but with many operations regulated by the signalling system to prevent hazards such as : - collisions with other trains traversing an improperly set route exceeding safe speed limits moving with doors open roll back when stopped.

A fixed block, inductive loop based signalling system designed by ADT Tranz will be used with the support of fibre optics ( 32M Optical Fibre LAN) to transfer data. The signalling system consists of the Automatic Train Protection and Train Detection system, Train Automatic Stopping Control System, the relay interlocking system, the Local Control unit, the CTC equipment, power supply, the depot supervision system, and the local switch operational panel.

The inductive transmission loops embedded within the guideway will provide a bi-directional "fail-safe" communication link between the controlling interlocking and train borne equipment. Additional docking loops at the stations facilitate accurate stopping and door control. Directional routing of the trains at turnouts will be controlled by the guideway switches. These will be directly controlled by hardwire from the local equipment. Vital communications controller, however, will be used for point-to-point transmission of vital data switches remote form interlockings. In case of emergency, the fail-safe brake will remain applied at 1.5m/s2 until the train comes to a complete stop. The lead cars are equipped with emergency access and agress in the unlikely event tant a train is incapacitated between stations.

For communications, the following equipment will be installed : - two-way passenger-accessible communication devices in all vehicles and on all station platforms public address equipment in all vehicles and on all station platforms maintenance telephone system connecting all PRT facilities maintenance radio system through out the Monorail system

The Kuala Lumpur Monorail will commence operation with 14 trains. At peak capacity, the system can handle 18,960 passengers per hour per direction with 632 passengers per train and up to 2 minutes headway between trains. The car interior has been designed with a special location for wheel chair users.

In response to site constraints in the inner city, commuter stations have been give a slim and elegant look with different roof forms. At the stations, commuters will enjoy various facilities such as automatic fare collection system; public toilets and telephones; staircases and escalators to link the concourse and platform levels.

Section 1 of the Kuala Lumpur Monorail is expected to be completed by early 1999 while the remaining section will be ready by year 2000. A round trip in Section 1 will take 37 minutes while the entire route will take 58 minutes. When the Kuala Lumpur Monorail, LRT 1 and 2, Express Rail Link and the KTM commuter trains run simultaneously in the next millennium, rail technology will be able to offer Kuala Lumpur residents some relief from traffic congestion.


\17 Hard Rock Cafe hangout

It all started on Nov 23, 1991, the day the Hard Rock Cafe opened its doors to the public in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Since that day, we've never looked back. And were proud to be one of the most successful Hard Rock Cafes in the region.

We think this is because of all you kick-ass customers out there who just keep coming and coming. We love our local Malaysians of all ages, our "local" The expats, our tourists, our visiting businesspeople, our intl flt crews, our house bands, our house The concert bands and crews, our management and our staff (we have to love ourselves, don't we?) Enough from us already!

Here's what some of our customers have to say about the Hard Rock Cafe Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia: "I love the chicks at the Hard Rock Cafe! All the girls are so friendly and cantik and the waitresses, too! When are you going to open a Hard Rock in Sabah?

Fariz Farook Tyebjee Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

[The Q]

 "Bloody good service at the bar, what? These young chaps really know how to pour a man a drinkand always so polite [The Q] and friendly. I wish we had service even half as good at my club back Home."

[Guitars]

A. J. D. Moore III Stratford-upon-Avon, England

[Guitars] "Oh, yeah. I just love the scene at night. The music is

 always great, the place is always rocking and I love to party there late with my friends." [The Q]

Sheila Jenkins Melbourne, Australia

 "I enjoy the Hard Rock Cafe very much! I come here often with my husband and daughter to eat. So many of our friends gather here and it was the first restaurant we ever took [Guitars] our daughter to. She is going to become a Hard Rocker just like her father!"

Shinobu Watanabe Niigata, Japan